kgreen

I'm familiar with the "piddly stuff" approach to restoration. A little here and a little there, pretty sure that "this" part can't be repaired unless I remove "that" part and the next thing you know the whole car is in pieces and your a little older when you complete the project. But that is OK, you have a great hobby and a great project. Enjoy! Where's the pics?

That is an amazingly beautiful car!

When I convert 3,000 Dinar to dollars, I would think $26.89 would be a very fair price.

One of the most desired attributes of human life is relevance. A project gives relevance to those who know how to harness the necessary skills. I would hate to know that I finished all of my projects within 3 days of my passing, as I would be bored stiff. I suspect those three, project-less days would be the longest in my life though.

What do you mean SMILE? We just signed a 30 year note for a $4,500 home. With that kind of debt, I can't smile!

Very nice alternative treatment, I like it.

Wow, you found rocker molding!!!

Your zinc plating process is very interesting to me. Can you share more details?

This is great info. Can the title to this thread be changed somehow to make future searches for this helpful tip easier to find?

Mr. Earl: considered and done.

I have a 60's era car with the same style of self-winding function. As long as the battery has sufficient charge, the contacts will jump and wind the clock. If the battery is low on charge, then the contacts will stay in contact and with a small current passing through them, become fried. Another repair option for the contacts is to cut small sections of RCA pins and solder one to each side of the point base. The arc passes through the RCA pin sections which are able to handle the load. The over riding tip here is to disconnect the car battery when storing the car for an extended length of time.

Could someone please take a picture of their original style 1940 big series Buick door escutcheon? Then post it here?

From Skip Boyer: the 1940 70 series cars used the plastic knobs with the chrome inserts in them..even the convertibles

Yes, I'm specifically interested in 1940. I thought if I posed the question with enough generality then the answer would serve many others.

Question: Do closed cars and open cars use different styles of window cranks? Where the same knobs used consistently between the different models? Background: The supply shops sell a window crank that has a black knob and a chrome knob. Then I know that for the 1940 model, the crank handles had plastic knobs with a metal inlay. What was actually done?

We've outlawed crime, but look what that does for us.

Man, that garage has some assets!!

Rare also needs to be clarified as Alsankle started to describe. Rare as in a common car, say Mustang, that is one of 500 with the same options and color codes hardly counts as rare. Also as noted above by Padget, some sellers note rareity, justifiably or not in an attempt to add sales value to the car. Now what I think is really cool is the guy that restores and loves a particular car that was more or less common in its day, but not notable. Capngrog's Crosley's, an early 60's Rambler, corvairs, etc. It is the care that one gives their car that makes many cars valuable, more than just those that are on "the list".

I don't have the car in front of me yet so I can't tell you what I have. My goal is to acquire a second starter for rebuild as a spare part for a driver. I can share this number in a week or so when the car is in my garage.

What is the best book(s) for chassis and body part numbers for a 1940 Buick? I hate to bother parts guys, their time is valuable and often times I don't need to buy something as much as verify a correct part.

Thanks 50JB!. I'm not looking at the two starters, but aside from the part number, I wonder if the 2 vs 4 field coil is a good identifier then I could count the phillips screws on the case. Again, I appreciate your help. Ken

I'm interested, still have it? Ken Green

From this website: https://www.fillingstation.com/articles/earlyengineoil.htm When early engines (prior to 1954) were new, oil filters were an accessory item and non-detergent oil was the type of oil used. Original, unrestored engines have most likely been run on non-detergent oil. If you are running an early unrestored engine that is not spotlessly clean internally, it is imperative to continue to run it on non-detergent oil. Otherwise there is the risk of damage to the engine. Non-detergent oil was used before oil filters became standard equipment. This type of oil would "stick" contaminants to the sidewalls and valleys of the engine to prevent dirty oil from damaging bearing surfaces. Engines that have been run on non-detergent oil for many years will have a thick "sludge" buildup. Sludge will appear to be oil that has turned to gelatin except that it will be very black with contaminants. Using detergent oil in an engine that had been running non-detergent oil would allow these contaminants to be released to flow through the engine. This could result in serious damage to the rod, main and cam bearings as well as other engine components such as lifters and plugging of oil lines. After an engine has been rebuilt or thoroughly cleaned, use straight grade 30 WT or multi-grade 10-30 or 10-40 WT detergent oil to keep the engine clean. Early oil filters only filtered a small portion of the oil flowing through the engine. Unlike modern, full flow filters, these add-on filters are more of a decoration than real protection for the engine. Even if your engine does not have an oil filter, the number of miles a vintage car is driven is much less than when these cars were new. The simple solution is to change your oil more often. Every 500 miles or a minimum of once per year is a good rule of thumb. - See more at: https://www.fillingstation.com/articles/earlyengineoil.htm#sthash.9ORCW9Vf.dpuf

What years of starter will work on this engine? I'm looking for compatibility with other years for a spare starter. I understand that if I keep a spare in the trunk the original unit will never fail!

IIRC = if i recall correctly.