Wayne R

nzcarnerd,---Thank you for posting that wonderful photo of the Bentley, sorry i should have spent more time and ,perhaps photo of any information placard there.--Also alsancle for that information---really interesting.

Sorry i dont have any information on these,---other than fabulous examples i seen there, as i was only able to spend a very rushed 1 hour that day there about 3.00pm, as i had to catch plane back to Australia that same early evening. One of the stars a original rusty Maserati. You decide makes , models, years.---thought it may interest members.

Have a few nice items for 1964 Electra 4 door, and and also a 1951 special 40

Ed---that was for when they towed there 20ft boat or home.

Mr Earl--that has got to be one the bests photo car shots in years, i spent 5-10 minutes looking at that photo---thankyou.

I think i would go with Jim here,--with 1953--i am probably biased ,as some of you will know, i restored and owned National winning 1953 Buick Skylark 76x convertible,--30 thirty years ago in US. And the special is a really lovely looking Buick, as all specials were deluxe models with bright sweep spears, and rocker panel mouldings, interiors were cloth , except for convertibles trimmed in leather. The advantages and disadvantages -- straight eight ---V8--not that many, if both are in top shape,-but the v8 was probably a little better , because after all was the latest from Buick for the first time,--i do prefer to drive with Dynaflow, than a manual. That year the 7000.000 millionth Buick was built, and Dynaflow was used in 80 percent of production. Sorry about bad photos---no digital those days.

Like Emtee said ,removing the distributor easy to clean as set, but---a warning here, when removing-- watch at the top , hold the the rotor top of so it does not move, when lifting out, as it can nearly always does flick about 10--15 degress out ,--Make a mark on the distributor base in line with center of rotor, and carefully note the the direction the vacuum unit points in relation to the engine.---good luck.

Earl---As i was saying, the 77 cpe i owned was a 1 owner real nice original car, my wife and i needed a good car for our first trip to CA 1991---only 76000 miles, so a few tips i can offer for memory is, make sure it is all stock mechanically as they have a few carburation smog hoses etc to watch for for tuning---Mine was a CA car --so may be different back east,?.also for memory mine only had a single barrel carb, and was a little under powered,--infact car felt like it was not a 350 ci, but i did not mind that as it waas mainly for my wife to drive, see i was used to driving more powerful Buicks, like i purchased a 69 Electra convertible about 3 weeks after that. The doors are very heavy and large ,fuel was not very good, about 15--17 miles to gal, other wise a very nice car to drive, soft ride, nice steering, that year they had side battery 5/16 cable connections,---ok--but not as good, the regal broke down ones , while my wife was driving down town Sacramento, was a faulty module inside distributor,--always carry a spare. Hope this helps you,---good luck --- with you purchase.----will try and see if i have a photo of mine--somewhere regards.

Thanks for that TomT, i actually used a flat file on the flat areas , and finished with 120 wet dry paper. no leaks now good. regards.

Thats great Ed,, strange though this car never had a gasket at the manifold top end, and my other Rivieras never did years back, so i left mine left metal to metal, terrific job with yours though.- Ed,--Thank you.

Thought i would follow on with this Heat Riser , that Ed asked a few weeks ago, in the last few days i suspected my current riser was not correct or partly blocked , so like with other Buicks i have previously owned, checked this one , and removed it ,. Living in Australia did not really require it because of temps warm temps here. A very easy job to do, when you remove the 2 bolt nuts and lower the holding bracket, the housing holding the flap and spring just drops down as a complete unit, you then just cut the flap axle with a hacksaw blade on the inside, place a blade threw the housing and cut at axle ends, then the whole axle and flap fall out ,then all that is required is to have the 2 holes, welded,--then remount and slide back on, and bolt up.-.--Note my flap was jambed at about 60-70 degress angle not good.---a few photos./

Thanks NTX5467, no every thing else stock , St 400 tranny, limited, slip diff, all power windows and vents, cruise , power seats,air con, 4 note horns,--Carter carb,--regards.

Thank you NTX5467 for taking the time explaining your knowledge about what i was asking, especially where you mentioned the casting numbers dates on the block and cylinder heads and other items, etc,. Like you stated it is a nice car , and drives well,---and i am really happy with it,, but will in the next few days record those numbers in case it provides more information about the car. The other strange thing about it , when i bought this car it was sold by a dealer in Coeur d Alene Idaho, on behalf of the daughters Dad that past away about a year earlyer, and the dealer stated that it was 425 ci engine, when i asked for all the photos of block numbers i told him it was only a 401,---and it still has a 425ci air cleaner decal on the air cleaner,. which proves nothing,. And about i month ago i decided to check the timing, ignition, as there was always a little light stumbling at idle, dwell was at 34, and the timing was set at 10-11 advance, so when i set those to where they should be car is now perfect runs so quite and very smooth .----So perhaps the Dad that owned the car thought it really was a 425ci. or workshop that serviced it did. i never received previous receipts, paper work with car or service records with car,---shows 136000 miles on speedo, . Many thanks.

Brandon PM sent you a few photos from service manual, hope it helps.

No problem---take a break and have a relaxed happy new year.

Branden--as Tom has said is all good--distributor is where you should have started first, look very carefully at your above photos re points they look very greasy black the points side facing us, try what Tom said, even though you have new points coming, i use wet and dry paper about approx 200 weight, fold a small piece 2 inches long by 1/4 inch,so it is dougle sidded spray it with a little brake clean,--and then slide it back and forth a few times ,then clean and dry by holding points open for 5 minutes to let dry.---Then see if it starts. You will get it going good luck.

Hello sent you a PM may help.

edinmass go to ebay item number---203244864774 Chinese they sell alot. Or go to ebay item number---201434600961 in Chicago usa. These are all used for BMW- Nissan, and Mini--all thin wall. May help.

When you remove your plugs, they will tell you all you want to know ,with your compression, keep them in order as you remove them ,number them in order ,and keep them, and study them carefully , deposits on them ,there colour, the colour of the electrode, . I would set plug gap at 30--32 no bigger. regards.

Brandon, , congratulations on your wonderful 65, you will be really happy with it when you get all the little items repaired, and running fine. Sorry im a bit late in maybe helping, but will start with , i realize you have done your dwell, timing ,etc, but i may be wrong did you fit new points and condenser ,reason is even with bad - burnt-- points and dwell set at thirty--can still get hesitation at low revs from an engine. good points are critical for good operation, also when you purchase new plugs and wires , most use black 7mm wires original , and i can understand that , but there are far better wires these days , example you can buy 7.5mm electronic power seal insulated jacket type, that are far superior, and these dont track across each other, like some original black wires,--you can test this on your wires by starting your car at night-, you will see the sparks at the wires .I notice on your wires they are zip tied in a few places together, get rid of those, Buick always used wire retainers like i think you have one to separate wires. make sure you obtain correct heat range plugs ,, and purchase quality points example,-Bosch,--Some Delco,--Echlin etc, dont buy vented points,, they have a small hole where the points meet, and can fail after about 500 to 1000 miles. Talking re points again , when set at thirty with dwell meter, checking with feeler gauge after can be only about 10 or 12 thou,,or 19-20 thou because points may be like a mountain have highs and lows, and the dwell meter does not allow for that. If you go with pertronix or similiar do it later ,just get you car running great first, but when you do , warning there is 3 grades or pertronix,,1--11--111 the later 11 and 111 are best dont buy pertronix 1, like others have said they fail if you leave ignition on for more than 4-5 minutes, i fitted my first pertronix 1 in 1991, and many more pertronix 11 later on until about 4 years still on point with my present 1964 Buick Electra convertible, my eleventh Buick. When you change wires , clean the inside of center coil wire connection inside they can corrode green. and the inside or replace your distributor cap and rotor.---regards.

Hello Nick----will send you a PM, problem is i live in Gold Coast Queensland A bit far away.

I will tell you something,, Willies 1969, well worn Martin N20 guitar named Trigger is worth more than all our Buicks put together.

Correct ---Robin---thank you.

Yes thank you Robin,, yes it is the number on right ,it seems to be a strange number, but was wondering what the sequential numbers ,or what model Buick this engine came from. My original vin number is 8k1052006 IT is ok and correct.

RivNut---Ed, would you mind identifying my 64 Electra convertible engine, you may remember i purchased it from US about a year ago ,and showed photos of it here on post war about then photos page 12,, headline---64 Dual Quad Electra production numbers.---. You may remember it has lots of factory extras, but car does not have its original engine, and i purchased it from the POs daughter,, as her Dad past away . earlier. The cars is great , runs like a clock and im really happy with it,---but was never able to find out about the engine. Here are the numbers on the front of engine,, and i realize its a 1966 401, but would like to find out by its numbers on right side front-----MT539 on left side---6C124577 on right side, sorry about photos hard to see. Many thanks if you or others can help.