Bob H

WAG: Someone was adjusting the valves with the engine running and the oil from the rocker arms was making a mess. Drove plugs into the oil holes to stem the flow. No idea why they weren't removed. Bob H

Billy is correct, the end nearest the zero on the tape has a pinch bolt that clamps it to the shift shaft that runs up through the firewall to the shift lever. The other end uses a rubber-steel bushing insert to accommodate the 3/8" diameter shift rod that runs down to the transmission. Recently another BCA member, Ron Booher, furnished me with the info that there is a Corvette linkage bushing which would work-1955-62 (I think). Works great. Happy holidays, Bob H

Went through this exercise earlier this year with a 1939 248 CID motor. Different motor, same problem. The engine had been rebuilt when I got it and I was suspicious about the workmanship so tore it down for inspection, there were many problems with the rebuild but let's discuss the crank and main bearings. The crank was reground 0.010" undersize and installed in the block with precision or finished main bearing inserts. The main caps still had shims under them but this takes away the engineered "crush" fit required by the precision main bearing shells. Understand that the crank would not even turn without the cobbled up homemade shims under the bearing caps. Luckily, I have an old-school highly skilled motor machinist to lean on with such problems. We agreed that the best way to resolve the problem was to line bore the block which he did. The engine has more modern precision bearing shells, very close and accurate bearing clearances, and a wonderfully smooth and free turning crankshaft. It runs great. Bob H

Buick Man: A fellow BCA member and home restoration expert suggested that I try VHT rattle-can paint products for coating small parts on my 1939 convert project. They are technically attractive because you bake them for an hour at 200 degrees to cure. I am old enough to remember when premium paint jobs were baked enamel. I have successfully done many fasteners, clips and small brackets and so far results have been good. The nuts and bolts retain most of their coating even after wrenching to install, they have not stood the test of time. We bake them in the stove oven or in a small counter-top toaster oven, there is no paint odor associated with the process, none. Just used VHT clear to protect a bunch of brake and fuel line clips, same process and it would take chemical analysis to tell they are coated. Again, time will be the ultimate test but the immediate results are great. Bob H

Pete: I have a short block in a 1939 coupe project car that was described to me as a 1937, the engine number is 43251009. I am not going to use it and probably it will go for scrap. Would trade for almost anything that fits 1939 46C, trim pieces, tune-up parts, back-up lights, hubcaps, etc. It is in Rainier, Oregon about an hour north of Portland. Bob H

My experience was with a 1939 248 CID engine but 1938 and probably 1937 are similar. Precision or prefitted main bearings were not available for these engines, they were supplied "semi-finished" and required line boring. These bearings were fitted with and adjusted for clearance by means of shims under the main bearing caps. My motor machinist line bored the block without the shims under the caps so that modern precision fit main bearing shells could be easily fitted. Not really a major job to him and I have a really nice fitting crankshaft. The machine work is a push and the crank fits perfectly with readily available bearing shells. Bob H

PM sent, I hope. Bob H

Went a little farther with the stiffeners on my 1939 convert, turnbuckles. Fabricated them myself with thread rod, nuts, scrap iron and some black iron pipe. One end is made from left hand thread rod. Didn't weld them to the structure but made simple mounting brackets and bolted everything in. Thought they might come in handy when it came time to fit up the doors. Leveled the frame on the floor and installed them prior to removing body mounts. Had some motivation, there is 1939 convert not far from me that was cobbled so bad that the owner has stopped work on it, unrepairable in his opinion. The floorboard and cowl were replaced, the body openings were not properly jigged up and he can't fit doors to the openings. It has stiffeners welded in but I don't know how the process went down. Attached a few photos. Questions answered upon request. Bob H

Hello: I am probably way too late but have to ask, did you sell this emblem we talked about way back when? If so, never mind, but if you still have it I"ll take it at your price. I was always going to join that procrastinator's club but just never got around to it. Thanks, Bob H

Boyer's business card lists richboy2@comcast.net for their email. We had them do some custom knobs for our 1939 last winter and are satisfied with their workmanship and service. Note that they are very busy and it will take some time to fill your custom order. I believe that Skip and Karen both work full time jobs as well as fulfilling family obligations. They meet their promises and are a pleasure to work with. Bob H

Okay guys, grease it is! Appreciate the input, Bob H

Thanks to all for the comments. Dynaflash8: I agree with your logic but still have a problem. If the inner seal I installed was 1939 vintage I would be inclined to go along with your recommendation. But, the seal is current technology and looks like it will keep differential lube from seeping into the bearing cavity. I believe that the original inner seals were leather and tended to weep a little at best. Add what I believe is positive pressure from the unvented differential housing and you have a source for lube oil to the bearing. I don't think the modern seal will allow oil to pass. I was sort of fishing for someone who had installed modern seals and driven them more often with no bearing failures. Thanks again Bob H

The lube chart for my 1939 Special states that the rear wheel bearings are lubricated by differential lube oil. How does that happen? There is an oil seal inboard from the bearing that would keep differential oil from reaching the bearings, these are modern replacement oil seals look like they would block oil passage quite well. Were the original oil seals designed so or made of a material that would let some oil pass to lube the bearings? One option would be to leave the inner seal out and allow free passage of the oil back and forth, but would the outer seal be able to prevent leaks into the brake drum? I noticed that the differential housing doesn't have a vent to relieve internal pressure like more modern housings have. I have pondered drilling a small hole in the inner seal to allow some lube oil to pass but that wouldn't allow it to return. Pack the rear bearings with wheel bearing grease? I partially filled the bearing housing with a small amount of lube oil, maybe a tablespoonful or two. This probably will work short term but I am nervous about long term bearing life. Has anyone experienced bearing failure after replacing oil seals in their car? Thanks, Bob H

I appreciate all the feedback, an important function of this organization in my opinion. My car is titled on the VIN in the picture so no problem there. Color was and will be Sequoia Cream, code available. The original interior was a red vinyl or "leatherette", couldn't find it in Sean's trim data. Have three other 1939 parts cars all with the info tags so fortunately I have samples to work from. The body number sounds like a roll of the dice or numbers from a hat should work. Since convertible frames are different might there be some way to tie the body number to the frame number? I'll post the numbers off my parts convertible when I uncover it. Thanks again for all the tips, Bob H

On my 1939 Special they were leather. Available from Bob's Automobilia. Bob H

My 1939 convertible project, despite being quite intact, did not have the information tag on the cowl. My guess is that someone pilfered it as a souvenir. Does someone make replacement tags that are similar and how might I come up with the missing info? Some things like paint color and trim can be derived from remnants on the car but other items are less obvious. Does the VIN help to fill in some of the blanks? Thanks, Bob H

Pull the air bag fuse. Bob H

Ron: I still have them. They came off a 1939 Special sedan and are in decent shape but will require some work. Whoever removed them forced them and caused some distortion that will need attention. They are intact and probably average condition for their age. $60 plus shipping for the pair but would rather trade if you might have any parts for 1939 Special convertible coupe that I might need. Thanks, Bob H

Recently made a trip to West Linn, Oregon about an hour from my house to swap info with Ken Smith who is also restoring a 1939 Special convertible coupe. Ken is a BCA member who doesn't do much with the internet so I am posting this picture with his knowledge and consent. The note was probably made by some line supervisor or inspector during the car's run down the assembly line. Ken has carefully preserved the note and it will continue on into history in his faithfully restored driver. Bob H

The Seattle, Washington Craigslist also has a 1939 Phaeton, a Special. Bob H

Safety devices, eye protection, ear muffs, and a pair of leather gloves. A respirator or face mask if you are painting, sandblasting or using chemicals known by the state of California to cause cancer. Bob H

Ron: Got your PM and tried to reply likewise but my system has some sort of glitch that I can't fix and won't deliver my reply. I appealed to this forum for help but my request got shipped off to an AACA location and sits there yet, unanswered. There, got that off my chest. The windshield reveal molding I have that you asked about is not for convertible. I have wondered if some talented welder could remove a vertical section from this molding and weld it back together. The shape looks the same only about 1 1/2 inches taller than convertible. Thanks for your inquiry, Bob H

I'll explain the terms the way I learned them, there may be other interpretations. In this context, semi-finished main bearing inserts that are factory finished on one side only, the outside diameter (OD) or side that fits next to the block and main bearing caps. The inside diameter (ID) or bore is manufactured with a surplus of bearing material so the inserts may be finished, after installation, to fit either a standard size crank or one that is ground undersize. These inserts were engineered to work with main bearing caps that are bolted down on a shim stack which allows for fine tuning to compensate for future wear. My understanding is that two types of main bearing shells were used in 1939, both the semi-finished and a finished style. Both of the original 1939 main bearing shells used shims between the main bearing caps and block for adjusting clearance. "Precision bearings" is a term I picked up while learning my engine building skills, auto parts professionals in my part of the USA use this term. These inserts come fully finished and ready to use, Buick began using them in connecting rods sometime in 1949 I believe. Not so sure when they became the standard for main bearings. These inserts require slightly a different design for the block and main bearing caps. Precision inserts require an engineered amount of "crush" or pressure when they are assembled and the only way to take care of wear is replacement, no shims. Originally the main bearing caps on my 1939 248 CID motor came with shims to adjust main bearing clearance, it had to be machined to accommodate the more modern fully finished inserts. The machining is not difficult or prohibitively expensive, any full service motor machine shop should be able to do it. Stop by if you are in the neighborhood, Bob H

1939 Series 40 main bearings: I have recently rebuilt my 248 CID motor which included replacing the main bearings. Research showed that the original main bearings were semi-finished shells similar to or actually "insert" bearings. Big difference, they were installed, the main bearing caps torqued down with a shim stack which allowed future bearing clearance adjustment, and the in place semi-finished bearings were "line honed" to fit. The engine I was using as a core had been rebuilt at some time and started but never put into service. A teardown was necessary because water had got into one cylinder and damaged it to the point that it needed a sleeve. Good Thing. Among other things, the main bearings were incorrectly fitted. Whoever did the work installed later model finished precision bearing shells, with the shims! The modern shells did not have the proper crush fit and main bearing failure was imminent. Tried removing the shims but that bound the crank up so it wouldn't turn. The solution was to line bore the block and main bearing caps to fit the modern finished insert bearings, the result is a really smooth and free rotating crankshaft. Can't say what years would have this arrangement but 1939 for sure. Bob H

What shop manual has the "slow drop" test for proper torque ball clearance? Bob H