Bob H

Mark: Does this person need a transmission in order to make the national meet? I have no spares but could loan him one to help him out. Bob H (in Rainier,Oregon)

Greetings: If 1940 Special transmissions interchange, and my research shows that they do, then I have two. They are in Rainier, Oregon and will be at the Buick club swap meet in Portland, Oregon July 22-26. I have pulled the covers and both look sound, shift through all gears, no broken gears and no rust, but I am selling them as rebuildable cores. $125 each. Don't know where you are but maybe someone from the club meeting could tote them closer to you. Bob H

I have a set of 1939 Special front fenders with spare tire wells, support brackets, and enough tire support and cover hold-down hardware for patterns to fabricate a complete set-up. The fenders are intact with no rust-through, but need metal work. Also have a couple of 16" wheel rims and the heavier front springs you will need. $1200 without the tire covers or $1950 with. Also, a pair of NOT 1939 Special front tire covers for sale either with the fenders or separately. A BCA forum inquiry returned the consensus that they fit 1940 Special and Century. A clever sheet metal fabricator might be able to make them work on the 1939 fenders. The stuff all came with my 1939 46C project and the seller obviously thought it was a matched set. $1950 with fenders, $950 without. Also have a 1939 nose center section with core support, lower panels. and a grille. Rough and rusty, grille damaged. I see this as a display or "conversation" piece rather than useful parts. $400 and I really don't care if it sells. The parts are in Rainier, Oregon about an hour from Portland. Oregon and will be in my my swap meet booth at the BCA annual meeting. All prices are negotiable and I would like to see the front fender stuff go to a new home. Shipping big bulky parts is so expensive that I see the BCA meeting as almost a last chance to sell these items unless I throw them in with a car deal, another option. Thanks, Bob H

What an eye for detail! I owned the car for two months before I realized that the differential was 1940 not 1939. It and a sway bar were sort of cobbled into the car and hole cut in the floorboards perhaps for a floor shift transmission. I was less than happy with the seller for not declaring up front that the rear end was not an original type. The ratio is 4.44 so no luck there. As a point of interest I do have two 3.90 ratio 1939 differential assemblies, one in my project car and a spare. None for sale at this time. Haven't checked the ratio in the 46S. Thanks for your interest, Bob H

I have a 1939 Special coupe model 46S that will be for sale later this year after I get my convertible project under better control. The car was someone's project that they abandoned after completing most of the body work and priming it. It is a roller with an incorrect, incomplete, and not running motor. No transmission or upholstery. It is exceptionally straight with a very small amount of rust in the front floorboards. Restore or rod it. Also, a 1939 46C two door convertible parts car, or project for a really serious hobbyist with a lot of time on his hands. This car came from life in a "salt state" and it shows. There are a lot of good convertible-only parts. Rolling chassis, no engine or transmission. Available later this year as well. I am listing these cars prematurely because they are in Rainier, Oregon only about an hour from Portland, Oregon and the Buick Club annual meeting. I plan to have a small booth at the Buick swap meet and have pictures of these two prospects available. They are priced at $5500 each. All of my prices are negotiable up or downward with up preferred. And an 1959 Electra 225 sedan that I listed previously on Old Buick Buy and Sell. The car is about two hours north of Portland off I-5 if anyone is interested. Thanks, Bob H

I believe Bob's has them.

FYI, there is a really solid 1934 Buick 40 series 4 door sedan for sale on the Sacramento, California Craigslist. The list heading is for a 1940 Ford but the ad includes the Buick. The car is actually in Salinas, California. On a recent trip to Southern California we stopped by and looked at the car. It is exceptionally solid, starts easily, runs well, and the owner says it drives and stops. He is candid and has a realistic idea of the car's value. Most of the car is there, needing restoration of course, and the rust-through is minimal. I have no interest in the car other than hoping it goes to someone who would restore it and since I have looked at it, I would answer questions to the extent of my observations. Bob H

Thanks guys! So the consensus appears to be that they fit 1940 Special and/or Century. I will have them for sale in my swap meet booth at the BCA national meet in Portland, Oregon, July 23-26. Any interest? Thanks again, Bob H

FYI, there is a complete 1953 straight eight motor for sale on the Monterey, California Craigslist. That could be the start of a great story! Bob H

Here's a trick that I use. Put the transmission in high gear so that the mainshaft is straight through. Then you can grab the trans tailshaft, usually has a u-joint or a flange on it, and rotate the shaft back and forth a little to align the input shaft splines with the clutch hub. Another procedure to add to the other good comments on this problem. Bob H

The top ring land on the pistons MUST be rebuilt on any rering job. A special tool (Manualathe?) cuts the worn old groove over width and a steel spacer somewhat like a thin snap ring is installed in the groove above the new ring. The probability of ring breakage and a lot more damage is almost certain if this step is skipped. The ridge, top piston ring, and the ring land wear together as an assembly. A new ring upsets this normal wear related clearance and introduces interference between it and the ridge which can never really be entirely removed. The oversize ring land and spacer effectively moves the new ring down the piston a tiny bit so it clears the ridge and eliminates interference. Simple, important and effective! Bob H, retired master engine builder

Greetings: Got these spare tire covers with my 1939 46C project but they don't fit the fenders. Any ideas? Thanks, Bob H

I have a rough looking manifold that came off a 1950 248 motor. Don't think it is cracked but it has rust pits and needs resurfacing. This might tide you over until you get the custom manifold built. How big a rush are you in? I will be in Long Beach, California June 10 and could through it into the car to save you shipping costs. I'll sell it for a song and help you sing it. Bob H

Pete: There is a 1939 Roadmaster listed on the Salem, Oregon Craigslist. It has been thoroughly picked over but I see an exhaust manifold in one of the pictures. I intend to go and see what might be saved yet from the car for my project and maybe some trading stock. I'll be glad to look for an exhaust valve body but it probably won't be until next week. It's a couple of hours from my house. Bob H

Rich: On page 29 of the Buick club judging manual is a section on pin-striping wheels. All years from 1937-1954 have three concentric stripes with the center stripe being "slightly wider than the others." I have a couple of 1939 wheels with stripes on them but I am not sure they are original. They look like they were applied by hand and sort of equally divide the space, the center one is wider. I have had lousy luck posting photos but I might try again tomorrow. Bob H

Mike in Colorado: It doesn't matter what size your grille is somebody always comes along with a bigger one! My 1939 convertible coupe is still in the construction phase so it is a super good time to note chronic heating problems and take measures to prevent them. An auxiliary electric cooling fan sounds to me like good advice, especially in hot summers and traffic. I plan to make sure that the engine block cooling passages are absolutely rust free while it is disassembled and use rust inhibiting anti-freeze when it is put into service. I intend to install a premium radiator that will allow me to pressurize the cooling system raising the boiling point of the coolant. Anti-freeze also raises the boiling point temperature. Thanks for the suggestion, Bob H

Thanks for the reply Grant! I had about given up getting an answer to my question and was close to posting it again in the form of an answer. Guide fog lamps have been selling for outrageous amounts of money, up to $1000 for restorable cores. That kind of money for an accessory item goes against my nature, the car will perform fine without them. But I do think they would add a touch of classic period functional styling to my 1939 Buick Special convertible coupe. As you said, who is going to get close enough to the lights to read the brand name? I think I'll check and see if the Unitys are still available. Bob H

Tyler: I have a generator core that was with some 1950 Buick engine parts I bought last year. Not quite sure how to identify it as the same as yours. The generator is in Rainier, Oregon about an hour from Portland. If you still need it get in touch and we can sort it out. Bob H

Grandpa: How much do you want for your Guide fog lamps? Bob H

Greetings: I came across a set of Unity brand 6V fog lamps in decent shape for a fair price. Are these light acceptable as "period correct" for my 1939 Buick Special convertible project or are Guide brand lamps the only option? Trying not to offend the purists. Thanks, Bob H

I have a 1939 Special convertible coupe project that is currently in the parts collecting stage and surely can use some of these parts. I will go over the list and pick out what looks like parts that apply to the convertible. Without part numbers or more expertise than I have leaves me fumbling a bit, any help or suggestions that you can provide would really be great. Thanks, Bob H

Hello: Don't know if it helps but I have a 1939 sedan left side running board trim piece, rough. Some creative genius drilled and fastened it with sheet metal screws. There are several businesses advertising stainless repair and polishing but I have never used one of them. If it is any good to you I'll let it go for almost any trade item for my 1939 convertible coupe project or a hot cup of coffee, you pay the freight. Also have for a sedan the narrow trim pieces that surround the windows in pretty good condition, windshield and back glass stainless trim. Sell as a package or trade for a convertible coupe back glass and trim or a 1939 radio (who's a dreamer?). Also, there is a 1939 sedan going for parts on Craigslist in San Jose, California. Cheers, Bob H

I have a set of used pistons from a 1950 248CID motor that I don't intend to use, $150. The critical concern would be that they are the same weight as 1941 or they would create an imbalance. A competent motor machinist should be able to verify specifications. Good news, I am only about an hour from you in Rainier, Oregon. Bad news, we are in Southern California for a sunshine break and won't be home for a couple of weeks. Bob H

Greetings all: I have similar dilemma with a 1939 Buick Special convertible coupe I am "restoring". My goals are to preserve and protect the car from further deterioration, don't intend to enter show competition but would like to drive it. I intend to be practical about the materials and parts using original as much as I can but don't intend to make it a "checkbook" cost is no object restoration. Lastly, I don't want to significantly diminish the value for my heirs. One area of concern is exterior paint, as I understand it original paint materials are no longer available but I have seen purists denigrate modern base-coat clear-coat paints. Fasteners are another concern to me, originals have no grade markings on their heads and I have a cabinet full of new Grade 8 nuts and bolts. I don't really like the original maroon color of the interior knobs and handles, ivory to me is much richer and appropriate for the car. The upholstery is much too plain for such a regal automobile. Don't want 1950's style tuck and roll but would like to break up the vast plain smooth areas, red leather of course. Restore (practically), preserve and show it off on the road are my goals. Your comments are appreciated. Bob h

While you are taking in the Rouge and the Rough Rivers I recommend spending a little time at the Rogue River. Enjoy your visit to Oregon. Bob H