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Steve, When you try some of these tips, please don't keep us in the dark. Please let us know how they did or didn't work. Thanks Bill

Maybe try some plastic headlight cleaning pads.

NO! Installing new points and plugs does not make a rebuilt engine!!! Nor is a new shift ball considered a new interior!! Plastic surgery is like a new paint job on a completely worn out wreck!

Well yes, those of us born before the bomb are definitely antiques, maybe even classics. But there is one undisputable fact! We are definitely what you would call "unrestored" !!!!!!

Well let see! If Antique is something 100 years or more old, then why did a bunch of guys form a club called "The Antique Automobile Club of America" in 1935? There were surely no 1835 cars around. Not too many 1885 vintage ones either! Just modern ones. So should it be "The Modern Automobile Club of America"

I'm no authority on the subject, but I think the automatic transmission help kill overdrive.

Yes, that's true. However, when you compare pounds per square inch of road contact for a 4000 pound car, my Franklin with 650 or 700 X 19 tires has a heavier footprint (per square inch) than a lot of new cars of the same weight. The biggest problem as I see it is the tire construction. The present day radials stop better than the old bias type. Of course, I could put radials on her. Or maybe a drag shute! But they're such a pain to restuff in traffic!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The Franklin in that article had 4-wheel Wagner Lockheed hydraulic brakes with 14" diameter by 2" brake drums. A system similar to what cars had up to the 1960's until the industry went to dual master cylinders and disc brakes.

It's true that speeds above 65 are a bit nerve wracking for an old car, but some cars were designed for it and even advertised it. Take this add for a 1931 Franklin for instance. Read the text about 80 feeling like 50! And no, I'm not in the habit of cruising at 70 or 80.

Hi to all my Franklin friends. I am bringing a new un-used set of high speed gears (ratio 3.92/1), complete with new Timken bearings, shim pack, seals, and pinion dust cover to sell at the Trek. Price $1700.00. If you're interested bring cash, I will not take a check. SOLD Bill J.

I don't think these have Packard on them. auburnsmidwest.com/catalog/oil-filter-purolator-decal-11/

What antenna? haha

Yes, the weights main forces are rotational. If it's cleaned very well the JB weld might work. Or you could just put together a completely new Bendix. See: Franklin Service Station issue #165, September 2020. Also, there is supposed to be a small spring and pin in the weight that helps keep it seated when not engaged. Bill

I don't mean to be nitpickity but, there was no such series as 141. It is a 1930 Franklin series 145 (short wheelbase) or 147 (long wheelbase). Just to let you know so you can update your photo. Our Franklin Museum at the Gilmore Museum complex in Michigan was built to resemble Ralph Hamlin's Franklin dealership in California.

Not really tremendous, my mother was born in 1909 making her 9 years younger than my aunt and about 9-10 when the picture was taken.

They run quiet, solid and vibration free. When tuned properly you could balance a nickel edgewise on the fender, The only noise you get at idle is that wide fanbelt. If you hear a slight ticking noise starting, it's not the valves. I turned one of those straight eights into a straight 7. It happened very quick.

She died in 1983 when I was 38 years old. Right now, in 2023, I'm only 19!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! How's that?

Photo of a 1913 American taken in 1918 with my aunt at age 18 sitting on the fender. It has tank, no toolbox.

Grade 7 is too soft and fluffy. You should use grade 1 or at least 2. Attached is the drawing for Franklin automobile seals. As you can see the felt they used for your application is No. 1. If you by a piece of no. 1 felt from McMaster Carr you will see, you did the right thing. Hope this helps. Be sure to oil it good so you won't burn it up as soon as you start up the engine.

Here's a little more help. First picture is the Front assy. showing the 5 holes and the second picture is the rear showing 6 holes. Hope this helps.

Maybe because the one with the five holes is the front and the one with six holes is the rear! You need to go back to whoever sold you these backing plates.

7/8-18, Champion 3X replaced by C-4, replaced by C-16C, replaced by W-16 and so on, Same used on Model A Fords 1928-1931. Check with Snyders Antique Auto Parts

The most important part of the old cars with mechanical brakes is adjustment and proper operation of all rods and/or cables. As far as mechanical brakes in general, you must remember that all vehicles with drum air brakes are mechanical brakes, they're just pulled on by external air cylinders. The killer of all drum brakes is fade, whether they are mechanical operated or hydraulically applied. That gets down to the knowledge of the driver and whether or not he knows how to operate a vehicle with drum brakes in all situations.

I sure don't miss the fading that drum brakes were known for nor the useless feeling after going through a deep puddle.

I have at 60 mph on a 61 Lincoln Continental. It felt like I had a drag shoot. But no damage to the door, no damage to the hinges. Just scared the hell out of us. I still miss those doors.