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Eric W

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Everything posted by Eric W

  1. Eric W
    Thanks!
  2. Eric W
    Thanks - looks like my car is missing "A" and "B", and that there are a number of years/models that would have this from 1942-1953. If you could add a photo of the 9.598 page, that would be great! What book are you using?
  3. Eric W
    Thanks - looks like my car is missing "A" and "B", and that there are a number of years/models that would have this from 1942-1953. What book are you using?
  4. Eric W
    I've seen reference to the radio antenna being different for Hardtop / convertible relative to other models. Anyone have either photos or description of what the differences are? Thanks! From what I can see, it looks as if the HT/Convert antenna has an additional surround plate that allows it to pass through the roof a little closer to the windshield glass than on the other models. But something tells me that almost none to none of the parts interchange (antenna mast, antenna base, gasket, etc.)... Down-side is it appears most/all parts for the non-HT/Convert antenna are available aftermarket. Not sure if anything for the HT/C is available new/repro. Really just want to confirm what would / would not interchange. (Yes, I bought a parts book, but it was too late of a date - its super-fine detail covers 1954-1962 .)
  5. Eric W
    Looks like it could be the original for a B1-D by Tanks, Inc. http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=130/category_id=102/mode=prod/prd130.htm (click on the "additional photos" tab) Tanks website doesn't say what models it will fit, but it appears to be Buick. Not sure what the ? hole is.
  6. Eric W
    Tanks, Inc. makes replacement tanks for these cars. It might be slightly lower total volume than the original - they may have compromised a little to have them fit more models. I believe they claim 17 gallons, where the original may have been around 19 gallons. I found one on ebay as a package deal that included a new level sender and shipping. Though you probably can't get shipping included to your location, an ebay reseller may do better with shipping than going to the factory directly. See post #144 for the new tank: http://forums.aaca.org/f163/rescue-me-51-41d-356199-6.html and post #68 for fuel tank removal: http://forums.aaca.org/f163/rescue-me-51-41d-356199-3.html The same seller is still offering these tanks: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1950-51-52-53-Buick-Steel-Gas-Fuel-Tank-Sender-B1-C-/330594640575?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4cf8f9e2bf#ht_1052wt_836 Check the Tanks, Inc. website (www.tanksinc.com) for if you need the B1-A, B1-B, B1-C, B1-D tank - the letter designates the fill tube location.
  7. Eric W
    Some photos that my wife took of "the big drive" aka "the yard lap". Also updated the avatar based on photos of my cars. Not sure how long I'll stick with that one.
  8. Eric W
    Gary, And when you get there, see post #69 on my '51 41D thread for what's inside the knob and how to attach it to a new cable... http://forums.aaca.org/f163/rescue-me-51-41d-356199-3.html
  9. Eric W
    Nice find! How did you get the original sale info?
  10. Eric W
    Thanks! I'll look for the book, then the parts.
  11. Eric W
    If you have the shop manual for the car, check the wiring diagrams section and it would indicate exactly where this is connected for those cars that would have it. Otherwise, you don't want it on something that's "hot" all the time (run battery down) but on something that's hot with ignition on. In my '51, I added the electric supplemental fuel pump to the "reverse light" circuit - because it's hot only with the ignition on, and the reverse light isn't something that would be often on at the same time as the pump. I just pulled out the bullet connector for the reverse light, fed the bare end of the wire for the fuel pump in the socket, and pushed the bullet connector back in, trapping the wire. Maybe not the cleanest/best "permanent" solution, but it works. The fuses on the panel are labeled.
  12. Eric W
    Since it looks like it may be time for it to drive a little, I reinstalled the battery hold-down bracket. Then reinstalled the RH cabin air tube & connections for the defroster fan. Defroster fan works! Installed new hose for the cabin air (from Bob's). Reinstalled the plug wire cover. Jacked it up. Drained the transmission. Fluid didn't look too bad. Dark, but still red. Need to turn the engine to get the torque converter drain plug to show through the access panel on the back/bottom of the bell housing to drain that, but that was it for the night.
  13. Eric W
    The interchange book I have isn't so great. I need to invest in one of the "good" ones. But for those of you with a good one, can you tell me if the headliner bows for the 1951 76R (2-door hardtop) will interchange with those from the 1952 Super 2-door hardtop? Same question - for the stainless trim that is visible inside the headliner at each bow? Thanks!
  14. Eric W
    Thanks John. It may be saved by the fact that the engine bogs right down when put into gear. I need to work out what will make the engine speed up properly. I'm probably going to pull the carb back off, since I did the rebuild on that & check that the acceleration features are connected and functioning. I also have looked at the section of the manual on checking the centrifugal and vacuum advance functions of the distributor and will check those as well. But it starts easily and idles well.
  15. Eric W
    Aired up the tires, put the cotter pins back in the front axle nuts (had pulled those to do the brakes, and for whatever reason, left a piece of tape on the steering wheel - cotter pins before moving). Added some hooks in the garage ceiling in order to tie the hood to the ceiling (it's been sitting on the roof of the car). Started up. Not sure exactly where I started this video - but if the car isn't moving right away, it's because I had the parking brake on. And the driveway is a slope, so rolling down that isn't much of an indication that the car will keep going. Anyway "yard lap". (Yes, it has a plate & insurance.) http://youtu.be/1HrJcYnrWdA - first drive - around the corner Almost all the way back, it stalled. Not sure if that's because it's not getting fuel or what. Glided to the base of the driveway. Got it restarted, and reverse works! Not bad. But something's still not right on running up the engine - maybe the distributor? Anyway, with it at least idling, I can check the timing. http://youtu.be/9IwlzRJ9BPY - reverse Third video - got it started and partway up the driveway. Had to back off and try again. Put it in L. Could feel the difference in the pull. Overall, it handles lighter than I thought it would. Maybe the steering is faster than the '55, or maybe the suspension geometry is more in the direction of lighter steering. Brakes pull pretty strong left, but when I did them, the left front dragged more without the pedal being pressed. Need to adjust. http://youtu.be/vUqeLC-CLho - back up the driveway
  16. Eric W
    The reason for parking it was claimed to be an exhaust leak. The cracked manifold might explain that, or maybe they had problems due to the leak between the exhaust manifold and head.
  17. Eric W
    Thanks guys! The screen did catch a small amount of crud out from the engine, but not as much as I thought there might be. I'll run it with water for coolant for a bit to see what else gets strained out, then change it over to real coolant. Also work on the carb mid-range adjustment & maybe see if it will roll under power, though I haven't yet changed out the trans fluid.
  18. Eric W
    Video: Engine start & run: http://youtu.be/G-xmP7Mqut8 Exhaust view (short): http://youtu.be/ODkIUn6ZeuA
  19. Eric W
    From the last post, got the needed nuts for the manifold. Got the manifold installed. Tried the oil & graphite mix per the manual, but I'm not sure that will do much more than release smoke with the gasket. Disassembled the exhaust from the old manifold and cleaned up the flange on the new one. Studs in place. Weather while I was working - only been about 6 months since the last rain... Gasket in place. Manifold on. Got the fuel issue pretty well figured out. The gas sitting in the line is still dissolving residue of the rotten gas, so I ran the electric pump until it pumped good-color gas out. Let it sit for a few minutes to dissolve some more residue out of the line. Then pumped some more darker gas until it flowed good again - it seems to be dissolving the "bad" stuff pretty quick. Then I hooked up the line, sprayed some gas in the carb, and it starts & runs! I ran it for maybe 1/2 minute. No coolant on board. Put a piece of panty hose on the inlet to the radiator (asked permission for that contribution), then filled the radiator. Video in next post, but it appears to run essentially indefinitely. The dashboard gauges show oil pressure, charge, coolant temperature, and fuel level - so they all seem to work. It's not happy to run up in rpm - have to nurse it up, but once there, it goes along. I had rebuilt the carb with all new parts inside, so I'll check on what can be adjusted for acceleration. But start & idle is working.
  20. Eric W
    You do find such great locations for your photos. And excellent work with the night lighting!
  21. Eric W
    One negative of my car is that as it sits, it's a "restoration started" kind of project. As in, someone removed a bunch of parts, and they're no longer with the car. As such, I've found a couple of photos of the headliner in some cars-for-sale ads. The inside of the roof on this car reminds me almost of a convertible - maybe that's the look or style they were going for. Exposed headliner support strips, and the "dome" lights are one on either side with no wiring or anything in the middle of the roof. Even the package tray (behind the back seat, below the back window) is body-color solid painted metal. Anyone have any photos of what the inside of the roof looks like? Photos of the lights on either side?
  22. Eric W
    The '51 on the left is the 41D. From looking at the specs in the shop manual, it's about 6" narrower overall. Both have the original parts, but I haven't looked at them close enough to figure how the width difference was accounted for between the two different body styles. First impression is a lot of the extra width on the 76R is in the outer fenders - so you don't really get much more between the doors or in the seat width.
  23. Eric W
    Not mine. Says starts/runs/moves, but gas tank out. Looks like it's most all there. http://tucson.craigslist.org/cto/4536597553.html
  24. Eric W
    Don't expect much more than storage on this one for a while, but here's the link: http://forums.aaca.org/f163/1951-76r-roadmaster-project-374967.html
  25. Eric W
    Thanks for the encouragement, guys. After getting some dollies to get it moved over so all would fit, I was too tired to even start taking inventory. It's going to need a LOT. A big part of that will be "finishing off" the '55 so it can make its contribution to the '51's. The '55 was "on the road" when I got it. The '51's not so much. So that will eventually be 2 more back on the road...
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