Eric W
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Everything posted by Eric W
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Yes, I expect to get the tubes back. I sent them for scanning for Jeff's convertible project, actually. I'm not anywhere near needing them for my project yet, but when the time comes, maybe IT can just bring up the files & make some more - or maybe add them to their catalog.
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Ok - I searched both the Pre War and Post War forums on this subject. So the Dante Red was an engine color for 1 year (I forget which - late 40's), and it's a wheel color for numerous years. As such Hirsch sells this color. I would appreciate if anyone who has some of the Hirsch paint could send me a sample, ideally sprayed over some primer or maybe on white paper or card stock (or a scrap of tape or masking paper, etc.). My purpose is to have a sample to use to get as close to this color as possible with powder coat at my local powder coat shop for the wheels on my '51 76R. I had the wheels powder coated for my '51 41D, but for that one I just picked a red from the "in stock" colors. From photos, it appears as though it came out somewhat too bright / light / to the orange side. But since I'm not doing a per-original restoration on the 41D, I'm not really worried about it. And now, with the hubcaps on, there's only the little ring of red that shows anyway, which looks good enough for what that car is. I did do a little extra that someone on here suggested and had the tire shop use the stick-on internal weights so there's no hammer-on weights visible. But for the 76R, I'd like to get closer to the original color. If this works out, I'll publish the powder coat info (as close as I can do by eye with picking a non-custom-mix "catalog" color from the powder coater). Thanks!
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Robert - I haven't looked too far into what on the trans is leaking. First impression (from where the drip is on the floor) is that it's at the back end of the trans. The forum seems to have misplaced a couple of the photos I attached. I'll try again later...
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Another cruise night on the 19th... [ATTACH=CONFIG]296133[/ATTACH] Went over to a show today (21st). Ran out of gas on the way. Got that resolved pretty easily (called my wife, was only 2 miles from home - learned where the needle shows on the gauge when it runs out...). Added the hubcaps - well, 2 on the right side. Have the other 2, not quite finished cleaning them up yet. The show itself was a no-day-of-show registration deal, and they ask you to have the car there for the whole time. I couldn't do that, so I just parked on the outside. There had been some "in progress" or "barn-find" type of cars there in the past, but not this year. It was all pretty shiny... [ATTACH=CONFIG]296134[/ATTACH] - waiting for some gas... - parked outside the show...
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Got all 11 tubes of the electrohydraulics out & sent to IT for scanning. Here's what the doors look like: Tube for the driver's door - attaches directly to the cylinder. - This is the clip inside the door that the top of the loop of the tube fits into. The tube was wrapped with a bunch of tape - maybe to fit tight into the clip, or maybe to resist wearing on the clip, or maybe both. - Right-hand door. Looks like the same cylinder/lift mechanism - cylinder port is on the outboard side, so there's a hose that wraps around the back to meet up with the tube on the inboard side. - tube for the right-hand door. This is a mirror of the tube on the other side. Same kind of tape wrapping as well. - fittings for the system. 4 elbows, 3 tees, and 1 union.
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Your routing where the rear window cylinder hose bends to the rear saves a probably more expensive pair of 90 brass elbows. That hose-to-tube joint is covered behind the arm rest sheet metal, so I don't see that there's any functional difference at that point. What you have done looks really good. The routing under the front passenger's feet also looks different on my '51, but the floor sheet metal might be shaped differently there as well.
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Hadn't thought about that. Just sending out for scanning at IT, per a request from a forum member for these. I'm still not decided on putting this back or going electric, but electric has a few things going for it (specific to my car): 1. I don't have the original seat anyway, so was going to look at a later (12V electric) power seat. 2. Restoring the hydro would cost more than the electric motors for the windows, which is all that would be hydro. 3. Converting to 12V would also facilitate adding a modern AC, which I think I want around here. Then there's the "usual" 12 V reasons - sound system, brighter headlights, alternator instead of generator, etc. If I do put the hydro back, I'd use a fresh set of tubes from IT. The tubes along the firewall & front windows are probably serviceable, but the under-seat / back window ones I would not count on to hold pressure. There's a "rust clog" or something in at least one of these tubes.
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Another thread on Postwar got me started on pulling the hydroelectric tubes. Got all but one out. These are likely headed to Inline Tube so that replicas can be made.
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Looks like you got it done. Out of curiosity, I pulled the arm rest on the left side, and this is what's under there:
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Showed up today: 2-door HT '50 Special. Not sure how much fixing up you're into... http://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/cto/4894131359.html
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Got started with wiring. I posted a request for photos on the Postwar section to maybe see a little of the routing, in particular how it goes from the firewall grommet, down the firewall, splits out for the neutral switch / brake light switch (reverse light switch?), the hi/lo beam switch, jumps forward to the inner fender, wraps up and forward to the voltage regulator, and jumps over to the generator. The part that goes right along the firewall above/behind the engine and down to the carb switch relay and down to the starter seems more obvious, but even there, somewhere there's a break out for the carb starter switch & the ignition coil. Anyway, got all but 3 wires identified, though 2 of the wires that I did identify have the same size and color code - parking light and brake light. Obviously, those two have different functions, and I should be able to trace which is which with some voltage on the system. There's three 16g white with red crossing tracer - I can't find in the diagram. Anyway, I believe I positively identified all 10 or so that have to do with ignition, starting, and charging. I plan to order additional wire in the original size and color code. Rhode Island wiring doesn't have the harness for this car, but there's a company in California that does - for $1100+. I should be able to duplicate the firewall-forward portion for much less than that. By starting with only the dozen or so needed for start/ignition/charging, might be $100-200 worth of wire & terminals.
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50-53 Roadmaster - help w/ some around-the-engine pictures
Eric W replied to Eric W's topic in Buick - Post War
Thanks, guys - I forgot about the '53 - maybe had the 40-series in mind... Anyway, those couple more inches in length over the Special seems to make a big difference in access to items around the steering column... Though it may also be that the intake/exhaust manifold isn't there yet either. -
50-53 Roadmaster - help w/ some around-the-engine pictures
Eric W posted a topic in Buick - Post War
Ok, so my '51 Roadie was victim of that most stupid of "modifications" - copper theft. Unspeakables chopped out all the wires ahead of the firewall. They were very careful not to chop any of the vacuum tubes, so they seemed to know what was a wire. Anyway, I'm going to attempt to make this run without investing in the big $ harness replacement (yet). I've reviewed the diagram, and there's only about a dozen wires in the start/charge/ignition part of the system. I'd like to make this look at least somewhat original, because if it works, I might just leave it for a while (and add the lights/horn later). Can someone with a '50-'53 Roadmaster contribute photos similar to these: Thanks!
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Cars and coffee (monthly event). I haven't been to this in maybe 8 months. Seems to have decreased in variety, or maybe that's just this month. Mostly Porsche, then Corvette, then Mercedes... Put 26 miles on the car, no problem, though the puddle of trans fluid in the garage is going to need attention...
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Compare: '53 2dr HT $4500 obo. You don't say where you are, but even at $1k to ship, make an offer, get it there, get it going, then drive past this guy's shop & wave... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Buick-Other-2-Door-Hard-Top-1953-buick-2-door-hard-top-west-texas-barn-find-project-car-original-/281595999283?forcerrptr=true&hash=item41906df433&item=281595999283&pt=US_Cars_Trucks
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Hagerty's website has $8800 for Josh's 56R (#4 condition, what you're looking at may be somewhat worse than that). I had another response written up for you, rationalizing that it might be worth it for $9k, but I clicked on BuickMan's link - they're down to asking $14k on that green '53. That's much closer to the fair value (Hagerty has right on $14k for #3 condition for that one). If they're asking that, see if they can move on price at all. Even at $14k, it's a much more fair deal than what you're looking at. MUCH nicer car. But if it HAS to be a '50, and it HAS to be a 56R... I'd still lean towards keep looking or stick to an offer no more than 9k. '51 46R...
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Mmmm... Cruise night. Arizona, in February - about 70F. Light breeze...
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Pat - when you get the under-back-seat part done, please post photos of what a new/clean example will look like... As for my thought of converting to 12V and using electric, it appears the motors for the 4 windows are $850 from Nu Relics. My car doesn't have the correct front seat, so I may end up with a more recent vintage of power seat (12V), and I will probably add air conditioning (12V) and some sort of stereo (12V). So I have several things lining up that point towards not investing in restoring the hydraulics, aside from removing the opportunity for leaks...
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Sounds like your question is around the back seat area - looks like you have most of the rest of the under front seat figured out, so here's what I have for the back seat area: - center - leftside - rightside
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I have the '51 76R, with incorrect/unattached front seat, and incorrect rear seat bottom. I'll lift that stuff out & take some pics of the lines. I'm considering converting to 12V and changing over to the electric window motors from NuRelics, but I'm trying to secure the major missing items before really starting restoration... My car too was partially disassembled years ago - and somewhere along the way the parts didn't stay with the car...
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Elmer's reports that they don't go into the "old car" yard until May...more than a foot of snow on 'em now... Just FYI.
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Lowered 3" all around...
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Thanks Jeff - I'll check it out.
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Want to buy the oil bowl for the air cleaner + the bolt/nut that holds it to the silencer. Near as I can tell, this would be the same part for '49 '50 '51 70-series. So if you've got an assembly where the silencer part is all smashed, I could use the other part. Funny enough, on my car the filter element is actually still in there. Wiring - my car was victim of theft of all copper wiring forward of the firewall. Would like to find a set of this to use for pattern. Per one of the threads on here, I'd try to re-use the wire end terminals, but replace the wire itself. Would be good if this included labels, maybe photos & was disassembled back to the fuse block. I did buy new battery ground strap & positive lead to starter. Also need a couple more things - a window up-stop from a 2-door (left door). Having trouble finding this in the parts book, but I believe it might be common to any 2-door model. This is the metal strip that holds the "fuzzy" for the inside of the roll-up glass, and it also has a couple of blocks for the up-stop screws. This is under the sheet metal upper door trim, and screws directly to the top of the inner door structure. Super long-shot request - a power-adjusting seat from a 2-door. May be common across '50-'53, also Cadillac - not exactly sure. Might just go with later model here to have electric adjustment & center arm rest & have it upholstered to match... (or use a correct vintage non-power seat & put it on a power adjusting base...)
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First cruise night with this car was Feb. 5, 2015. No photos (at least not that I took). I had to get dinner along the way (meet up w/ the family) rather than burger or sub out by the cars. So it was parked for 1/2 hour or so before moving again to the cruise night - on restarting for this 2nd leg of getting there, most all acceleration was lost. My guess is it was either boiling fuel in the carb or in the line or both. So once parked at the cruise night, I propped the hood open to let some heat out. A few people asked questions - inline 6? No, it's an 8. That kind of thing. After cooling off w/ the hood open for maybe an hour, it ran good for the ride home. I'll see about getting some proper fuel line insulation on there to make up for this junk that sells as gas these days...
