Eric W
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Everything posted by Eric W
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I can't find your post in the intro thread (on mobile at the moment), so maybe you said more there. There are several postwar straight 8 threads in this forum that may have some info/ideas that may help. Do you have the engine / trans for the car? There was one of these 2-doors with the short side trim on the buy/sell forum a while back. There weren't many of them made. Looks like you have most of it other than the rear bumper?
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And that "here it is" sign is also in the movie, but I believe it's with a silhouette of a T instead of the jackrabbit. We also stayed at the Wigwams in Holbrook on this trip. Look that up and see how they used that in the movie as well. We drove some of the old road between Flagstaff and Williams. It goes through, but some of it is dirt.
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I'll see what conversations these start:
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So I don't forget what I'm doing - since last post, was out of town for 8 days. Might have found a front seat that will work. It's way too far away, but the seller might be able to get it to me on Greyhound with the backs pulled off. Need to just go for it and order a starter. Pulled the spark plugs & cleaned & gapped those. Got the NOS neutral switch cleaned up and installed. It had a little surface rust, and I couldn't get it adjusted to allow start to as far to the "D" side of "N" as the manual said, but it should still start in "N". (Not actually trying starts now, as the battery & starter are out, but I was checking the neutral switch with an ohm meter with the shift lever in various positions.)
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Good question on the fuel. For my 76R, I just ran a short piece of fuel hose from the carb to a small funnel. Harbor Freight has a set of 4 small funnels for about $1, and one of those was small enough to just press into the fuel hose. Fill the carb float bowl through the funnel from gas in a small bottle. This would only let it run for however long it takes to drain the float bowl, but that's all I'm looking for now to be able to work out whatever else needs fixing. I wouldn't recommend this setup for a V8 - on my car, I can set the funnel on the firewall and brace it in place with the hood hold-open rod so the funnel isn't just flopping around. Sounds like you saw what I did on the 41D for fuel system, and I'll probably do about the same for the 76R - new tank & level sender from Tanks, Inc. (ebay resellers of the tanks sometimes have free shipping). Fuel / vac pump rebuild by Then N Now, replace the lines/hoses in between as needed - all this would be before trying to run the engine for more than a few seconds. But I would go ahead and pull the carb off, open it up, and check functions to see if the above scheme of "just fill the float bowl" has any chance of success. That's where the shop manual will help. Then you can have some confidence that fuel moves through all the right passages before running the starter a whole lot.
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I'll be there...
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Thanks - sounds like I might have found the right seat. Seller is reporting 62" (as close as one can measure) across the outer trim covers (beyond the upholstered cushion).
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Nice! You already did the best part - get one that isn't disassembled or messed-with. That saves a TON of time & money tracking down parts. The 2 that I've brought back, carb rebuild has been a requirement. If it does start with gas direct-fed to the carb, it's likely to have something stuck or clogged where spraying cleaner down the venturi just won't get it. So plan on a carb rebuild kit. The one I got from "The Carburetor Shop" in Mo. included more parts than the one I got off eBay. http://thecarburetorshop.com/ I completely agree with the advice to consider the rest of the fuel system to be not usable until proven otherwise. One must-have is the factory shop manual. A quick search on eBay looks like there's a bunch of '46 manuals to pick from, but it appears to be a "supplement" to the '42 manual, so you'll probably want both of these. I had bought one on cd, but though it's nice to view on a screen instead of a big heavy book, I've randomly run across a LOT more things by having the actual pages to flip through. Good luck, and have fun!
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I tried searching on this and couldn't find anything. If someone has '50, '51, '52 56R or 76R and could run a tape measure across the front seat, I'd appreciate it. I have a lead on a seat for my 76R, but I don't know if it's the right one. Seller says it came out of a '52 56R, but it sounded like it wasn't bolted down and may have been just loose in the car when he got it. Doesn't mean it's the wrong seat, but the loose seat in my 76R isn't the right one... Let me know what you're measuring - cushion only, cushion + the side trim pieces, a bare unupholstered spring/frame... I measured inside at the bottom of the doors in my car, and it looks like maybe 65" width or so in there, and quite a bit narrower at the tops of the doors. Thanks!
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Couple of pics for the above post.
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Excellent day at a regional car show (in Tucson) yesterday. Sure, most of the cars are from Tucson, but quite a few from Phoenix, and a couple from NM and San Diego. Comments ran maybe 40:1 to some form of leave it as-is. The other one was pretty funny, but I had been warned to expect this from another "patina car" driver - the comment was along the lines of "well, it looks like you have a nice start". Of the other 40-50 comments in the leave-it category, they ran about 50:50 to clear-coat it or leave it exactly as it is. I was a little bit concerned about bringing such a car at all, because the show runs somewhere between craftsmen who do this for a living and have access to all this stuff, showing off the best they could put together for themselves and people who know how to write huge checks and manage a project (or just write a huge check for something already done). Not that there's anything wrong with any of that, but what I'm doing here is different. Get it running, get it looking as good as it will for what it's experienced over time, and drive the heck out of it. I have bigger ideas for the 76R, but I'd say reception was overwhelmingly positive for this 41D. I was surprised by how many people took photos - detailed photos of different trim parts in contrast with the surrounding "natural finish".
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I just added some photos to one of my threads and they appear that the file is shrunk to the 400 pixels wide (about 15-25k) - the photos I upload are typically at 1100 pixels wide, about 100-150k. Did my original 1100-pixel wide photos get resampled to 400? How do I view the 1100 pixel width that I uploaded? For many things, 400 pixel width isn't enough detail. I also see some threads being posted in the last day or so where their photos are larger than the 400 pixels wide. How are they doing that?
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Some pics to go with the above: - just set the air cleaner on to see what it all looks like. - bottom side of trunk floor - looks pretty good. - tank out - doesn't look too bad in this view, but there's pin-holes all over. - rear axle is on the rims & dollies. Front is on jack stands.
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Posting problems with new software
Eric W replied to Gary_Ash's topic in Forum Questions and Answers
Would it then be attached at the bottom, and not within the text, where you can comment on each photo as a narrative. - or is it? Let me try adding another one below this. - test what this looks like... Does it also capture returns / paragraph breaks? Ok, looks like I've got it now... Thanks!
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Posting problems with new software
Eric W replied to Gary_Ash's topic in Forum Questions and Answers
I can't even find the "additional options" that Gary mentions... To add back the option under "image" to select "from computer" or "URL" would be great! -
More today - pulled gas tank. Top of tank has holes, and bottom is smashed in pretty good. I thought the Tanks, Inc. tank worked well on the 41D, so I'll probably do that. I haven't seen what the level sender looks like. Figured out the power to the neutral switch (in the start circuit). I had connected to the wrong wire at the firewall, so fixed that. Determined the neutral switch was broken, so found a NOS one on ebay from someone I'd bought from before. Checked the starter switch on the carb - that's working correctly. Got the car leveled on rims & dollies under the back axle, and jack stands in front. Swept out underneath the car, and pulled out some crusty/crumbly heater hoses from underneath.
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A few things this week - tried starting. Determined that the lead I had connected from the ignition key to the neutral switch is not hot when the key is on, so I either id'd the wrong wire to reconnect (remember ALL firewall-forward wires were chopped off at the firewall in this car), or there's something else going on. Put a temporary jumper over the top of the starter relay on the firewall from the left-most terminal (always hot) to the right-most terminal (wire from the carb switch). This let me activate the relay. The NOS relay that I found definitely works. The pull-in / hold-in coils on the starter solenoid work, and the starter spins if I jump across the big terminals on the solenoid with a screwdriver, but the starter doesn't turn from the solenoid alone. So I held 2 things at once - the jumper wire across the starter relay (to activate the pull-in / hold-in on the starter solenoid), and the screwdriver across the big terminals on the solenoid to turn the starter - this turned the engine over, slowly. Much slower than on the 41D. I know these are different starters - anyone know if the "big engine" starter turns slower? Or is this starter just weak, or is making the connection via a screwdriver just so poor that it can't pull enough power to turn the engine well. Carb side - did all of the above with no fuel to check that the starter would turn it over and move oil around. Added fuel to the carb & tried again. Not even a hint of a spark. Checked that the coil is hot when the key is on, but I'm not going too far with getting the spark at the moment because carb & starter / starter circuit are still not there. So pulled the carb off and saw where the leaks were. I tightened one thing, replaced a gasket, and cleaned the pump jet bore until the little check valve would move really easy (could get the pump jets to squirt when moving the throttle). Also adjusted the pump height per the book. Pulled the starter. Might have a local shop take a look, or check into the rebuild/replace options with Bob's / Cars / Kanter, etc.
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Found a NOS starter relay. Got that installed. Got a few more things from Bob's to get things together - manifold gasket and engine mounts were the big ones. I noticed (from looking at these photos I posted!) that the engine was off to one side by about an inch or so. That's not good. So took the radiator hoses loose and put some blocks on the jack to get it up between the suspension & steering linkage. That lifted the front of the engine until the valve cover was touching the firewall. Took the valve cover loose and slid it forwards a little. That let the front of the engine go up enough to swap out the mounts. On lowering it back down, I got a tire iron on the frame and a couple of wood blocks between the tire iron & front of the engine to lever the engine back to center. However, given the condition of the engine mounts, I'm fairly sure the trans mount will be in about the same condition. Got the intake/exhaust manifold on. Cleaned up the carb - bought a rebuild kit for it, but it was really clean inside, and some of the parts looked like they were from a rebuild kit. So I only replaced the accelerator pump, since the leather on it was dried up. - old mounts. Yep, these are shot. - new mount in, right side. - new mount in, left side. - manifold gasket. - manifold & carb. - manifold & carb.
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- cruise, 30 April. That's my daughter's legs over the back seat... The kids just sit in the back seat sometimes while I walk around some more. My son said a lot of people were looking at the car, but then there's a lot of people, and they're looking at everything... Pretty good turnout for 97F.
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Here's some pictures from DVAP: - Ok, this is a 40-series, but it shows details of where the headlight wires, horn, brake light, and neutral switch break out from the harness. - Detail of coil orientation. + on top, - on the bottom. - where the defroster fan wire crosses from firewall to fender. - camera can get where my eye can't - defroster fan wire under the defroster core housing. - turn the camera around - defroster fan wire on the fender. - don't recall why I took this, but man, that little camera (on the "phone") takes good pictures... - 2-door hardtop being picked apart... - another 2-door hardtop... (and the door part I got from - yet another a 2-door hardtop with a door!) - the '53 Cadillac Camperado...
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Some pictures: - cleaned-up valve cover. - "this engine contains hydraulic lifters" decal location. - closer-up of remains of decal. - cleaned-up distributor cap, new coil & bracket, new plug wires. (an original distributor cap has the cylinder numbers right next to each plug wire, so it's easy to get the order right!) - engine left side - new freeze plugs & intake manifold rings. - LH door with the up-stops and sweep bracket from DVAP.
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Pretty good week this week. Got an order from Bob's - oil filter, intake manifold ring seals, plug wires, coil, coil bracket, valve cover gasket. Removed the old oil filter, suctioned out the filter housing, pulled filter housing off the engine and wiped it out. MUCH cleaner than the 41D, so that's promising. The new filter from Bob's came with the filter lid gasket, so no more wondering where that was going to come from. Scraped the old gasked out from the lid, and installed the new filter and lid gasket. Installed the coil bracket and coil. Installed the plug wires. Put the intake manifold seals in place. Got out the intake manifold gasket that I had bought a while back, and it doesn't fit! So will order the correct gasket. Put the space heater under the engine and let it heat up for a while. Drained the engine oil - got about 6 quarts out. Looks pretty good - dark, but not thick at all. Also during the week, found a NOS starter relay on eBay, so that's on the way. (When do you buy a NOS starter relay that's only for 1951-52, plus '53 6V? When you see one!) Went to DVAP in Casa Grande this morning. Inquired about a 2-door front seat. The price they gave, they can hang onto their few 2-door front seats. (The price they gave, I'll either go later-model, or buy a brand-new 2-door seat.) The original seat is missing from the car anyway, and the seat that I have is a 2-door seat, but the right seat back is missing some major structure. Doubt anyone is selling just the right seat back... Might take a look at the left to see if such a piece could be fabbed, but it's probably a pretty deep stamping. Took some photos while there of specific parts of the wire routing in order to move that along. Also got the left door window up-stop and inside fuzzy-holder part from a burned-out '52. Anyway, will get some new oil, the starter relay installed, the manifold gasket, manifolds installed, then it's rebuild the carb, borrow the battery from the 41D, and see if it runs...
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Nice! What appears to be hanging from above / behind the front seats - did you do 3-point seat belts?
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Connected the cars together again with jumper cables. Got the starter to spin by jumping across the 2 big bolts on the starter solenoid with a screwdriver. So that's good. Got the solenoid to jump by pinching together the red and yellow wires with insulated pliers, but there's not enough power via jumper cables alone to then have the starter turn the engine. But showing these 2 functions on the starter are working is promising...
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No good. I'm guessing corrosion has got to the coil - this wasn't as well sealed and clean-looking inside as the voltage regulator. I can find the 12V version of this relay from Bob's, but no 6V. Anyone have a 6V one? I'd move the one over from the 41D just to check, but it's farther down on the firewall, almost under the defroster core & behind the battery...
