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About Kaftan

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  • Birthday 10/06/1986

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  1. @Rusty Heaps That would be fantastic if you would keep an eye out for one!! I definitely appreciate the offer! That certainly would have been a beautiful convertible, in the pic :c
  2. Hello again, Keith! I appreciate you sharing your advice and referrals. As I was trying to gather the knowledge necessary to begin wiring, I hadn't thought that there would be a small business out there who would already have custom wiring at the ready! The learning curve is still there, ha, but the only way to overcome it now is to get my hands dirty! Ha, you called it: The steering wheel is entirely made up of crumbling bits. The "BUICK" buttons on the dash radio unit are in an equally fragile state from the decades of weather exposure... I won't be trying to push them in anytime soon!
  3. A'ighty, little update after 2.5 years of... nothing. TRANSMISSION Thanks to another angel user from this forum (who has since deleted his account, so the only shout-out I can give is "Greg"), another transmission and ball joint were located! Those were purchased in late 2017. The trans had a couple damaged pieces which I was able to scavenge from my existing dead trans. The original plan was that I'd follow the shop guide and perform the rebuild myself, but since the cost of mistake would be so high with this unit, the plan changed to paying a professional to go through and repair the unit. That happened in early 2019. Cleaning up and replacing ball joint shims and seal was the only remaining task I had before sticking the trans back in, which was performed last night: Verifying the gear and shifting mechanisms... Disassembling the ball joint for cleaning... preparing to replace the existing seal This dirt bike stand worked perfect for holding the trans sideways. Rebuilding the ball joint and centering the shims/seal from top was much easier. Reading through the shop manual reprint gave me the knowledge necessary for the ball joint service. With the joint being lubed by the transmission oil... jeez the cost of the seal failure would be high. Pretty important seal, ha, for the entire trans lubrication system to depend on. I anticipate spending the rest of the week cleaning the transmission mounting crossbar (etc) under the rig - hopefully I'll be able to dig up some help lift this trans back in within the next week or two. LIGHTS No progress on the tail lights aside from purchasing the rust soak, ha. Just so I address the question posed to me 2.5 years ago. I'd like to include running new wire as part of the re-do, but accessing that is proving more challenging than I imagined, ha. (rightfully so?). Managed to get my hands on a new fog lamp (bevel and glass) to replace the one which was previously missing. After removing and disassembling both fog lamps, the internals are fiercely corroded. Purchased new electric guts to rebuild; will likely need to run new wiring here, too. OTHER Can't seem to figure out a method to get the oil plug to stop leaking. It's abundantly clear that over-torquing the plug will cause the pan threads to cave, which seems like a bad route to go. Perhaps some kind of adhesive/sealant will do the trick. The stock fuel pump gave up, ha. Prior to transmission removal, I had attempted an engine start - the fuel pump tried, then spewed gas out of its crevices. I have the rebuild kit, so that is just a matter of time (I hope). The steering wheel compound is crumbling away, making driving hazardous (or at the very least, uncomfortable, ha). Still investigating solutions for that. Now that I bring that up, I'm wondering if there are steering box lube points I should give attention to. Hmm. Hopefully I'll get the Buick back in the sun soon! She needs to stretch the old wheels!
  4. Indeed, that's what I mean! Wow, I didn't even know rust-soaking was an option; it certainly seems like a gentler option. Thanks for sharing the advice!!
  5. While the transmission acquisition continues to shake out, and since I was mid-way through "winning the fight" with a small cold, I chose to look at something simple on the Buick this weekend: A tail light assembly. Here's the before shot of the driver's tail light. And a shot from the inside. Mmmmmm. Nice rust hole! (Carefully) disassembled. Wires labeled prior to cutting off sockets. It's certainly easy to see where stagnant water was collecting. Ick. But, the unit has enough structural integrity to continue performing its duty, so back in it will go! I took the sockets to Napa to try and find some replacements. With their patient assistance, we managed to find a reasonable replacement for the turn signal socket (the one I was most concerned about, since it has a proprietary shape that clamps to the assembly). The stop/tail light looks like it can be further disassembled, so I'll work a little more on that before trying to find a replacement. Looking at how much exposed wire I have on these, it seems like a miracle that any of these lights worked at all! Before any of the tail lights get reassembled, I'd sure like to get them all "up to snuff". Correct me if my logic is in the wrong place here, but I'm thinking media-blasting the rusted pieces, followed by applying a protective coating. I've only heard bad things about the Harbor Freight small parts blaster, so I'm on the hunt for a alternate solution!
  6. Gorgeous car!!! I know Bob's Automobilia carries fuel pumps for that model (somewhere around the $120 range, if I remember correction). Or, for a little less, a fuel pump rebuild kit!
  7. Based on what I've dug up, the trans I'm looking for can come from any 60-70 series from '42 - '48. @wndsofchng06 Thanks! I just might have to prepare myself for a little wait time is all, ha.
  8. Looks gorgeous, to me! What a great picture, too
  9. Ha... when this particular individual also told us "... and I won't guarantee the case is any good", I formed a similar opinion
  10. Seems like a long shot, but here we go! Looking for a transmission or transmission case for a 1946 Buick Roadmaster 76-S. The few local folk I've talked to so far do not believe what I have is repairable/reusable (pics below). Apparently, I had a gear attempt to drill its way out of the case. All I have now is a collection of damaged transmission pieces and a stationary rig...
  11. This is a disappointing post - the transmission shop I used called me up and requested I drive over to take a look at what they found. Here are pics of the worst damage: This gear has been wearing into the side of the case (notice the teeth are entirely worn off of the end). And here's the hole it's been drilling into the side of the case. Nearly all of the gears in the transmission were worn or slightly damaged in some way. But it's the case damage that's keeping this particular shop from a rebuild, I'm told. It's a pretty sad deal! I'd certainly prefer my rig to have a functioning transmission, ha. The shop was able to find a single case available for sale (no innards) - and the gentleman is asking $2,200 for it. That's substantially out of my budget, so it looks like I'll end up with a pile of dismantled transmission parts and a stationary car until a solution can be found. I'll be posting a want add in the buy/sell forum here soon, but as always, I'm open to any advice/suggestions anybody has for me at this point!!!
  12. So! Transmission successfully removed from the '46 Roadmaster! There she is! And the universal joint is still attached here. I dug up several tidbits of useful information from other user posts within this forum in regards to this procedure. I began by loosening all bracket bolts underneath the engine and transmission (I did NOT remove the bolts yet - no desire to flirt with an accidental drop!). Instead of using the long-extinct J-part "Engine Jack" tools proscribed by the shop manual, I created a shaped wooden pad and used a bottle jack (with two jack stands) and lifted the engine at the bell housing (only enough to take the pressure off of the transmission). Then, the speedometer cable and two shift linkages were disconnected from the transmission. To prepare the transmission for a linear removal, the shop manual recommended swapping the top two bolts (connecting the transmission to the bell housing) for "Transmission Pin" tools. Naturally, these are also long-extinct specialty J-parts. But AACA Buick forums to the rescue! I learned that all I needed to do was buy two 5.5" bolts... saw the heads off... and just like magic, perfect pins! So one corner at a time, I replaced the top two bolts with the pins, and loosened the bottom two bolts. The rear support bracket, which held up the transmission and universal joint, came free after removing the four bolts holding it up (I had the transmission supported by the bottle jack, so the pressure was off of the support bracket). My dad came over to assist me with the final removal - we lined up a floor jack underneath the transmission so that it could simply roll backwards once we had the transmission resting on it. So we positioned the jack to hold the transmission, removed the bottom two transmission bolts, and guided the transmission along the 5" of transmission pins until the spline shaft was completely free. After lowering the floor jack, I placed the transmission into the milk crate you see above! I've since dropped off the transmission and universal joint to be professionally rebuilt. While I'm waiting to hear back on that, I've got three other items I'd like to address while the transmission is out and the rear axle assembly is free (in no particular order): Rebuild the fuel pump (since it leaks profusely... yikes.) Replace the rear differential/torque tube gasket (since it leaks profusely) Replace the shift linkage bushings I'm certainly looking forward to the next drive, but at the same time, I love doing the stuff like this, too
  13. Well, not entirely sure what you're referring to here... if it's the vocabulary, all I can do is shrug and say my primary study resources were all penned in the 40s