Kaftan

Members
  • Content Count

    208
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

58 Excellent

About Kaftan

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday 10/06/1986

Profile Information

  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Montana

Recent Profile Visitors

1,291 profile views
  1. Indeed, that's what I mean! Wow, I didn't even know rust-soaking was an option; it certainly seems like a gentler option. Thanks for sharing the advice!!
  2. While the transmission acquisition continues to shake out, and since I was mid-way through "winning the fight" with a small cold, I chose to look at something simple on the Buick this weekend: A tail light assembly. Here's the before shot of the driver's tail light. And a shot from the inside. Mmmmmm. Nice rust hole! (Carefully) disassembled. Wires labeled prior to cutting off sockets. It's certainly easy to see where stagnant water was collecting. Ick. But, the unit has enough structural integrity to continue performing its duty, so back in it will go! I took the sockets to Napa to try and find some replacements. With their patient assistance, we managed to find a reasonable replacement for the turn signal socket (the one I was most concerned about, since it has a proprietary shape that clamps to the assembly). The stop/tail light looks like it can be further disassembled, so I'll work a little more on that before trying to find a replacement. Looking at how much exposed wire I have on these, it seems like a miracle that any of these lights worked at all! Before any of the tail lights get reassembled, I'd sure like to get them all "up to snuff". Correct me if my logic is in the wrong place here, but I'm thinking media-blasting the rusted pieces, followed by applying a protective coating. I've only heard bad things about the Harbor Freight small parts blaster, so I'm on the hunt for a alternate solution!
  3. Gorgeous car!!! I know Bob's Automobilia carries fuel pumps for that model (somewhere around the $120 range, if I remember correction). Or, for a little less, a fuel pump rebuild kit!
  4. Based on what I've dug up, the trans I'm looking for can come from any 60-70 series from '42 - '48. @wndsofchng06 Thanks! I just might have to prepare myself for a little wait time is all, ha.
  5. Looks gorgeous, to me! What a great picture, too
  6. Ha... when this particular individual also told us "... and I won't guarantee the case is any good", I formed a similar opinion
  7. Seems like a long shot, but here we go! Looking for a transmission or transmission case for a 1946 Buick Roadmaster 76-S. The few local folk I've talked to so far do not believe what I have is repairable/reusable (pics below). Apparently, I had a gear attempt to drill its way out of the case. All I have now is a collection of damaged transmission pieces and a stationary rig...
  8. This is a disappointing post - the transmission shop I used called me up and requested I drive over to take a look at what they found. Here are pics of the worst damage: This gear has been wearing into the side of the case (notice the teeth are entirely worn off of the end). And here's the hole it's been drilling into the side of the case. Nearly all of the gears in the transmission were worn or slightly damaged in some way. But it's the case damage that's keeping this particular shop from a rebuild, I'm told. It's a pretty sad deal! I'd certainly prefer my rig to have a functioning transmission, ha. The shop was able to find a single case available for sale (no innards) - and the gentleman is asking $2,200 for it. That's substantially out of my budget, so it looks like I'll end up with a pile of dismantled transmission parts and a stationary car until a solution can be found. I'll be posting a want add in the buy/sell forum here soon, but as always, I'm open to any advice/suggestions anybody has for me at this point!!!
  9. So! Transmission successfully removed from the '46 Roadmaster! There she is! And the universal joint is still attached here. I dug up several tidbits of useful information from other user posts within this forum in regards to this procedure. I began by loosening all bracket bolts underneath the engine and transmission (I did NOT remove the bolts yet - no desire to flirt with an accidental drop!). Instead of using the long-extinct J-part "Engine Jack" tools proscribed by the shop manual, I created a shaped wooden pad and used a bottle jack (with two jack stands) and lifted the engine at the bell housing (only enough to take the pressure off of the transmission). Then, the speedometer cable and two shift linkages were disconnected from the transmission. To prepare the transmission for a linear removal, the shop manual recommended swapping the top two bolts (connecting the transmission to the bell housing) for "Transmission Pin" tools. Naturally, these are also long-extinct specialty J-parts. But AACA Buick forums to the rescue! I learned that all I needed to do was buy two 5.5" bolts... saw the heads off... and just like magic, perfect pins! So one corner at a time, I replaced the top two bolts with the pins, and loosened the bottom two bolts. The rear support bracket, which held up the transmission and universal joint, came free after removing the four bolts holding it up (I had the transmission supported by the bottle jack, so the pressure was off of the support bracket). My dad came over to assist me with the final removal - we lined up a floor jack underneath the transmission so that it could simply roll backwards once we had the transmission resting on it. So we positioned the jack to hold the transmission, removed the bottom two transmission bolts, and guided the transmission along the 5" of transmission pins until the spline shaft was completely free. After lowering the floor jack, I placed the transmission into the milk crate you see above! I've since dropped off the transmission and universal joint to be professionally rebuilt. While I'm waiting to hear back on that, I've got three other items I'd like to address while the transmission is out and the rear axle assembly is free (in no particular order): Rebuild the fuel pump (since it leaks profusely... yikes.) Replace the rear differential/torque tube gasket (since it leaks profusely) Replace the shift linkage bushings I'm certainly looking forward to the next drive, but at the same time, I love doing the stuff like this, too
  10. Well, not entirely sure what you're referring to here... if it's the vocabulary, all I can do is shrug and say my primary study resources were all penned in the 40s
  11. Time for a small update! While I had the car assembled, I entered it into a local car show - the "Billings All Original Car Show" on July 15th! It was great talking to all the passers-by But, as I drove it the mile or so home, transmission clanking incessantly, I knew that was the last jaunt I was going to take before substantial disassembly. Since then, it's been up on jack stands, getting little more attention than the occasional hour here-and-there spent cleaning literal pounds of dirt and grime away from the underside components (in hopes of accessing soon). The goal in mind is getting the transmission out. When researching the "how", I learned I would need to disconnect the rear axel assembly. Well, fear of the unknown, fear of the perceived caliber of the project, and insecurity in my abilities kept progress at a complete stand-still for several months. BUT, as of 9/29/17, I [finally] found the initiative to dive head-first into my pending project. And I'm sure it's no surprise to anybody reading this, but you know what I found out? That this process is actually very simple: Step 1: Disconnect e-brake at equalizer Just remove the one nut that's tensioning it up. Step 2: Disconnect Hydraulic Brake line between left strut and frame Step 3: Disconnect Crossbar This was behind the rear differential. Removed the pin nut on the right, then the two bracket nut/bolts on the left. Step 4: Disconnect Shock Absorber Links The upper link simply slid off the lower link. I'm guessing if the bushings were any good, one would actually need to remove the pin out of the lower link. Step 5: Disconnect the Coil Springs Removing the upper bolt on each side freed the springs from captivity (no picture... whoops.) Step 6: Disconnect e-brake Harness from Torque Tube (near universal joint) Step 7: Disconnect Toque Tube from Universal Joint The e-brake harness (top of pic, below) was freed with two quick bolts. The torque tube was attached via six bolts to the universal joint (bottom of pic, below). At this point, the entire rear axle/wheel/strut assembly is entirely disconnected from the rest of the vehicle. Gentle pressure was placed on the assembly by tying the rear differential (which was still connected to the torque tube) to an anchored come-along... and eventually, *pop*, the spline shaft slid out of the transmission. Now it looks like I need to figure out how to finish removing the transmission... Looks like I'll have to find some "transmission pins" and "engine jacks" before proceeding... Any advice?? I love progress
  12. Greetings! Throughout the light restoration/rebuilding process on the '46 76-S, I've been accumulating a box full of small parts 'n such that I've replaced. Most are small and incidental, and aren't taking up much space. HOWEVER, I'm still tripping over the original fuel tank and fuel neck assembly (which I replaced with aftermarket parts). This tank is not useable in its current form; on top of the extensive cleaning required to remove the crud 'n rust from the innards, there are a couple spots where rust has eaten entire holes through the tank. They aren't very big, but still render the tank unusable So you guessed it, my question is: What does this community recommend I do with this (and future) replaced part(s)? From what I've found, '46 parts, part dimensions, part diagrams, etc. are quite difficult to locate. I'm hesitant to dispose of this tank, thinking I'd be losing a piece of history; somebody somewhere might want it for documentation purposes...? Thanks in advance for your input!
  13. That's a pretty sweet rig! But I'm biased In regards to the carb, it *appears* to be exactly like what my 76-S is running (also presumably factory).