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JayG

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Everything posted by JayG

  1. I saw this. On the east coast but might be worth checking out. Model AA front bumper Jay
  2. <!-- google_ad_section_start -->I have for sale the 2nd and 3rd row seats out of a 1951 Chevy Tin Woody Wagon. Will fit 49-52. They need to be recovered but as seen in the pics they are complete so patterns could be made from them. The steel frames and springs are in excellent shape. These were inside the car which was closed up so they were never exposed to the weather. I won't ship these unless you're willing to make the arrangements for a pickup. Sorry but they are just too big and heavy to pack up to ship. They are located in Central CT. $300 for the 2nd row and $550 for the 3rd row
  3. Ray - Inserting a Helicoil is an option. The only thing is the largest sice is 1 1/2. That would mean machining down the crank hole cover and re threading that to match. helicoil,helicoil insert,helicoil inserts,heli-coil,helicoil kit,helicoil tool kit ,helicoil tap,helicoil india Here's a chart of the sizs available. Jay
  4. Mike - I just removed the rear fenders from a 27 sedan which had never been tampered with and there was no welting. My 25 roadster has none either. Jay
  5. Any chance that at some time in its' life it had the back cut off to use as a pickup and someone put a roadster top on it?
  6. Had to share this. Looks like a nice car. It's 2 towns over from me. If I didn't have the roadster I'd consider this. He started a few weeks ago at $8900 and has dropped significantly. Take a look. (Not mine) 1924 Dodge Coupe
  7. Jason - That is the correct pulley on the water pump. Mine is the same. It actuallly took a wide flat belt. The threads are in the front end of the engine support.
  8. Ray - Use a jack under the front to relieve the pressure on the engine front support (ball/sleeve) and it should slide out. It's a tight fit and if it was installed with felt at any point in time it will be even tighter but it should slide forward.
  9. Ray - I had mine apart and I should remember but .... I believe that if you place a jack under the front of the motor you can then remove the 3 bolts that hold the retaining flange on. Then the ball and sleeve will slide out from the front. Your right that this is the front motor mount but it is really a sleeve that fits into the front of the motor. Jay
  10. Don't discount the fact that a fitting may be leaking. I had issues with my tank and took it apart numrous times making sure the gaskets were set etc. drove me nuts. I finally replaced the inlet fitting and no more problems. Jay
  11. Henrick - Based on the frame number A574-060 you have a 1926 series car built between March 18 and March 26 1926. The engine number will always be higher than the serial number. Also based on information from the Dodge Brothers Club http://www.dodgebrothersclub.org/DB_Production_Dates.pdf the 6 volt B type motor was "phased in" from March 8 through May 3 1926. This means that it is quite likely that your 12 volt engine is the original engiine for your car. I love the color. I may do my 25 roadster in that color. Enjoy it. Jay
  12. That looks like a 1926 not a 1922. I don't have access to the Myers website right now but they have the production numbers. I'm thinking that your serial number falls in the 1926 model year. Also based on the trunk lid that is a 26 not 22. My 1925 has a serial number of A169xxx. Jay
  13. Bill and Ian - Here are a few more pics from the show. The first is my cousin and his son. The other is a shot of my best side taken from the Desoto. It was funny to see the number of people that were fascinated by the motometer. I think more pictures were taken of that than the car itself. Joe - We've met. I spoke with you at the Southbury show last Sept. I didn't have my car roadworthy at the time. You had your 23. Glastonbury is a distance for me especilly since it would require some highway. I'm going to try for Southbury and the one in Simsbury center in July. Do you go to the Klingberg show in New Britain?
  14. I've only had my 25 Roadster since August of last year. The trust factor isn't there yet but today I got adventurous and drove it to a Wings and Wheels benefit show at a local airport. The round trip is about 18 miles. Downhill going and uphill coming home. With temps hovering around 90 today it added to the possibility of something going wrong. I teamed up with my cousin who agreed to follow me in his 50 Desoto. Needless to say it was an uneventful trip and one that I hope to repeat through the summer. Just wanted to share my experience and a photo. Jay
  15. Bill - Looks nice. I'm glad you're happy with it. Jay
  16. Pete - Won't blowing out the oil feed tube with it disconnected at the oil gauge get a litle messy under the dash?
  17. Here's some pics. This came off of a Sept 1926 production car. Jay
  18. There is a collar that is bolted inside of the valve chamber. That and the valve covers keep it aligned and rattle free. You can see it in the center of the valve chamber. Unfortunately I didn't take any pics of the tube.
  19. Bill - It is available. Unfortunately I'm pretty sure that the sedan carrier is different from the coupe. The lower connections and the ring may be ok but the top bracket is definitely different. If you want some pics let me know. Jay
  20. What size wheels are on it? I have one for 21" wood wheels. Jay
  21. I don't believe you'll have that ability on a 24. My early 25 doesnt have the flywheel timing marks.
  22. I'm gonna go out on a limb here and say that some of the parts you lack are probably available on the B and C engines. That would make you less lonely. The best way to determine what will fit would be to pick up a master parts list. This will tell you by serial numbers what fits on what. It's helped me out quite a bit. I have a C engine in the sedan I'm selling that I could take pics of if you want. I believe that the B was in production from March 0f 26 to about mid August and the C from mid July until Jan 1 of 27. They overlapped for a month and a half. Jay
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