JayG

Has anyone ever removed the brake/clutch pedal shaft from a pre-fast four 4 cyl bell housing? It looks like you just take out the cotter pin holding the brake pedal in place and drive it out but I didn't want to destroy anything before I asked. Also - How do you remove the throw out bearing from the multi-disk clutch assembly? I removed the large snap ring but no movement. Really don't want to mess this up. Thanks for any help. Jay

I just went through this exercise restoring my wheels. The bolts were peened so the nuts would stay on. Factory original as this was the case on 2 different sets of wheels that I have. I ended up grinding them enough to get the nuts off then dressing up the threads to save them. I looked everywhere on the internet for bolts to match the originals and they don't exist. The heads are smaller and higher profile than modern ones.

A real nice solid set of wheels. As mentioned above I can bring them to Hershey. Jay

I believe that early ones were all painted black. Early being up to 26. I have a set of 27 wheels I just listed for sale that came off an unrestored original car. They were natural finished and you can still see the pinstriping. No sign of paint on them anywhere. Jay

I'm selling a set of 4 21" Dodge Brothers wheels with rims and clamps. These came off of an early 1927 "C" engined sedan and are in really nice condition. The car was parked in 1946 and stored in a garage. There is surface rust and a few minor dings in the rims. The spokes are all tight and nice with the exception of 6 on one of the rear wheels. It must have been exposed to the sunlight as the outer surface of these 6 spokes got a little powdery. They are still very solid and not loose but would need to be sanded maybe filled and painted. There are no brake drums. 3 of the wheel clamp nuts are missing and one of the hub bolts is broken. Overall a really nice set up wheels. Looking for $500 for the four. Can be picked up in Connecticut or I'm heading for Hershey on Wed the 8th. I can bring them with me. I'll only be there on Wed. Jay

I have a few complete radiator brackets and tanks that I cut the bad cores out of. If someone is looking for an original 30/31 radiator setup to get recored here's your chance. Asking $50 each. I can supply pics to anyone that want.

According to the Design Changes for the Dodge Brothers 4 Cyl Cars on 4/30/17 car number 150000 the F207 Bracket was added to the cowl. (not sure if this is the horn reinforcement). Then sometime between 1/1/18 -1/2/18 cars 217926 - 217968 they started using Klaxon horn Type 5 and changed the vacuum tank bracket for the horn too. Hope this helps. Jay

I'd refer to it as a Top Rest Stud.

Marv - My mistake. I didn't realize the earlier mounts were so different than the later ones. Mike is right about inquiring about Myers used parts. They may have what you need in their stash. Jay

Marv - Myers has what you need. There are a few different styles. Here's the link to their catalog page with them. http://www.myersearlydodge.com/chassis.php Jay

You don't realize how bad some things are until you take them apart. I knew there were a few loose spokes but after taking them apart they were downright dangerous. Many of the ends that go into the fellows were well worn and soft. I feel much better knowing that the wheels won't fall apart on the next corner I take.

Just wanted to share. I have spent an untold amount of hours sandblasting, filling pits and painting the hubs, fellows, bolts, rims, wheel clamps and brake drums. I sent some of the old spokes along with the painted items to Noah Stutzman in Ohio. He did a fantastic job making new spokes. Then I put a light stain on them and marine varnish. Finally got them back on the car. I love them. The amount of effort was worth it. A before pic, the pile of parts and some after pics. Jay

No questions are dumb. That's how you learn. The crank hole cover should come off. Try to pry it with a thin paint scraper while unscrewing it. Once off the end of the crank with the ratchet will go in and engage the nut on the end of the crankshaft. It turns in a clockwise motion. Good luck. Jay

That's the original. Jay

Mike - I have a similar problem with my 25 and I suspect timing is the issue. I just ran across this article on vacuum timing the DB 4cyl. Haven't tried it yet but plan to. Jay http://www.dodgebrosclub-australasia.asn.au/docs/vacuum_timing_db4.pdf

Bill - 22 5/8 rim edge to rim edge. Jay

Mike is correct - There is no handle. The outer end has the square. The end that engages the ratchet nut has a round disk which fits into the crank hole and acts to stabilize it when cranking.

I'm looking for a decent spare tire for my 25 Dodge Brothers. It takes a 24" 33x41/2 tire. Anything useable laying around? If in the New England area and I could pick up. Jay

Still looking for a spare tire 33x41/2 and wheel bolts. Jay

Looks like someone bought them for the $599 Buy Now price.

After scouring the intenet I think I've deterined tha tis is the rear driver's dorr for a 23 touring. That seems to be the only year that the earlier tourings had exterior handles. Anyone that can confiem that?

Just picked this up at a swap meet. I bought it thinking it is pre 24 Dodge Brothers but not so sure now. Can anyone identify this door? It measures 22 inches wide at the top and almost 22 inches tall. The interior looks like dodge. Also is it Roadster or Touring. Thanks, Jay

I'm wondering why you have wood in the trunk. My 25 roadster is all steel in the trunk. The only wood in the whle car is the floorboards. Jay

Nice car. Here's a link to the DBC site with production number info. Yours would be an early 27 with the "B" motor. Jay http://www.dodgebrothersclub.org/DB_Production_Dates.pdf

Nice looking car. If it's only seeping out around the stud I would remove the stud and then put a thread sealant on it. Loctite makes some http://www.henkelna.com/adhesives/thread-sealant-thread-sealing-loctite-anaerobics-14405.htm Jay