JayG

I got the fittings for the vacuum tank and eliminated the sediment bowl. It's working!!!!!. The gasket under the neoprene needle seat didn't work but I think it's too thick. I may file it down a bit and see if that works better. I did put the old seat back in and the car runs with it. The needle is worn some so I have to turn it until it closes properly. Wish someone sold the needles. Anyway I feel much better. Now to get it out on the road and see if it's trustworthy. Thanks to those that offered assistance.

The metering head moves freely. I took the whole carb apart and cleaned it with spray carb cleaner. It was running before I rebuilt it but the float was filling up. The only problem now is that it is not shutting off the flow of gas and is leaking through the overflow. Everything is clean and operational inside. I'm going to try the washer to raise the seat. If that doesn't work I'll put the old seat back in. I did get it to run with the new float and seat but it leaks through the overflow hole.

There is a loop. If that could be an issue I can eliminate it.

Mike - here's a pic of the carb. The new float is the same height as the old one. The neoprene seat seems to be lower in the brass than the original seat was so that's why I'm thinking of raising it with a washer. I am picking up the right fittings for the vacuum tank to eliminate the sediment bowl. Might put an inline filter somewhere not noticeable.

I've been trying to get this thing running and still having problems. I bought a new float, carb rebuild kit and neoprene needle seat. Now I'm having float overflow issues. It seems like the needle isn't seating in the neoprene or that the neoprene seat is lower than the original brass seat. Any thoughts on this. I'm thinking of putting a copper washer under the new seat to bring it up a little. Mike you mentioned buying a neoprene tipped needle. I didn't see them in the Myers website only the seats. Also - I rebuilt the vacuum tank and I know it's good. I think my issue is the sediment bowl that was put on it. I've discovered that the threads on the big brass bolt that attaches it to the top of the vacuum tank don't start to catch until way down. I'm afraid to tighten too much. I am going to eliminate the sediman bowl and go back to an original setup. Anyone have the large fitting that connects the fuel line in?

Do you speak to him? If he is willing to sell parts I'd be interested in the running board splash aprons and top irons if he has them. Jay

The thick molasses coating is probably what preserved them so nicely. A good coating of grease and oil keeps the moisture away.

Mike - Thanks for the pics. They are in great shape. I would never have guessed they looked like that. Now I know what to look for. Jay

Hi Mike - My 25 roadster doesn't have the engine splash shields. I wasn't aware that Dodge had them. I knew the Model A's did. Anyway If you could post a picture of the shields for reference that would be great. Then if I ever run across a set I could identify if they were the right ones. And I have a beautiful set of original Model A shields that I would swap for a set of Dodge's.

I'm feeling a little "inadequate". My compliments to the man that built that intricate piece of machinery. I wish I had a fraction of that talent. Nice to see even if it's not Dodge.

Thanks for the compliments. I was looking at a few touring cars and this one just happened to come up at the same time. It needs some attention but that's expected. Overall a nice car. It has a Fatman steering wheel and the manifold heater with the floor vent. I've had the vacuum tank out and thouroughly cleaned everything inside. All is operational and the vent is not plugged. The springs are in place and seem to be functioning as they should. There is a sediment bowl at the inlet to the tank. That's clean. I haven't tried the permatex. I will do that plus I just got a new set of springs to put in. I had the tank running well before I took it out. I could actually watch it cycling in the sediment bowl. Then the carb float sank and I couldn't keep the tank working. I will keep at it. I saw the floats at Myers but I didn't see the needles. Have to look again. Are there other needles to replace inside the carb body? I thought I saw a diagram showing the internals of the card with another needle. I'll let you know how I make out with it. It's registered and ready to go.

Hi - Just wanted to say hello. I'm a former Model A guy and just purchased a 1925 Dodge Brothers roadster. I've been researching and learning. I got it thinking that it was a road worthy vehicle but that's not entirely correct. I have spent a considerable amount of time getting the vacuum tank working. Still not convinced it's correct. Then on its' maiden drive to get a VIN verification done it died with a carb float full of gas. Thanks to a good samaritan and some epoxy we emptied the float and got it to where I needed to get. The ride home consisted of filling the vacuum tank 3 time to make the 4 mile drive home. Luckily I had the foresight to bring gas with me. I suspect carb issues as the float metering needle shows wear. Any ideas where to get a new one? Anyway - I will be full of questions and look forward to hearing all of your thoughts and suggestions. I am attaching a pic. Hope it works. Jay