BearsFan315

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benjamin j ... Well if when you come to Va Beach look us up, we have an active AACA Chapter here and wwould love to have you involved. do monthly gatherings and meetings/ dinners, special events each year, some tours, great people great time. Shane... as for Petersburg, my wife is from that area, and like any city, including Richmond it has its parts of town you would stay away from. The Historic area is on a rebound and starting to grow and thrive. Many new things popping up and developing. Same goes For Roanoke, In-Laws live there and same scenario. Areas you would not go to after dark, but downtown and the historic area are coming back strong.

I am on the Coast of Virginia, and visit Richmond on Occasion, usually to the Richmond in the Spring, and maybe the Fall Show done by the local AACA up there. There is tons of history and things to do in Downtown, but me personally I would live outside the city in a burb. Get way more for your money. Traffic can be a bear during rush hours !!

what is the year, make of the truck you are doing ... i have a 1929 Chevrolet and it was done with grooves, Piston Pict 1 Piston Pict 2 as this allows the oil a flow path or feed path depending on HOW you look at it. they are of the "X" variety and the "X" crosses there is a hole. the Bottom half or cap the hole is from the feed of the dipper, and on the top half or Rod is a hole as well. makes sense that the oil travels the grooves and lubes the babbitt and mating surface of cam more evenly. Also noticed that my main bearings are grooved as well, but a single groove. Main Bearing Pict So for me I would say Yes... Makes Sense and seems Practical & Applicable...

Make sure you do NOT use a Cleaner, Like Carb/ Throttle Body Cleaner as many of those contain a trace amount of oil for lubrication. Brake clean is straight up CLEAN :!) acetone/ paint thinner are in the top 3 as well... spray cans with pressure work great once you get the heavy crud off !!

I know what you are going through, same ordeal here for my 1930 a few years back... got all kinds of info about antique plates vs yom plates for VA. Simplest way to find out is to ask the source, since the laws are always changing. call them ask them what you want to know Just remember NEVER give them MORE info then they ask for, as it only leads to MORE requirements and info they want. Keep it Simple, Keep it Short. For me it was painless and took a short time.

PRICED REDUCED... FOR SALE: 1929 Chevrolet Fuel Tank $65 Plus Shipping & Handling Tank is in Great Shape, has a Dent in the Center looks like one of the Straps was too tight, Did a Leak Test & Does Not Seem to Leak, Tank Is As Is Gauge Included as seen, Not sure if it Works or Need Rebuilding... 1929 Fuel Tank Pictures

PRICE REDUCED . . . FOR SALE: 1929 Chevrolet 20" Steel Wheel $35 Plus Shipping & Handling Wheel is Solid and in Great Shape, I have Wire Brushed it & Cleaned it Up Some. 1929 20" Steel Wheel Pictures Have 2 of these for sale, both are in Same Shape/ Condition...

ok, here is what i am thinking of building for my drivetrain, if it will work is another story!! 1929 Engine Stand/ Holder Empty 1929 Engine Stand/ Holder w/ Drivetrain May need to reinforce the rear end where the Transmission sits, but the dolly under may handle it just fine. considering the transmission will not be on there all the time.

I got Picked Up My Engine Hoist Yesterday, Torin 2 Ton Model... Getting closer to pulling the Driveline out Want to make a Wood Stand to sit the Engine in/ On when I remove it. I was thinking to make one to sit the Driveline on the 3 Original Mounting Points, HOWEVER I want to be able to remove the Bell Housing so I can check the flywheel and Clutch disc. So I am Thinking that I can build a Simple Wood Frame Set-Up that I can sit the Drive line down on and support it via the two side rails where the oil pan sits ?!? Figure I would build something like this:1929 Engine Stand/ Mount Figure I could build this mostly scrap wood from shop, screw it all together and then mount it securely on a 24x48 piece of 3/4" thick or so Plywood. Then I could sit on a set of my Harbor Freight 1000 lb Dollies so that I can push it around and work freely on it. Was also thinking of putting a small block on the back of the Plywood to support the Transmission WHEN it is bolted on, to reduce the OVERHUNG load and ANY stress it may impose on the Engine and Crankshaft !! This concept will also allow me to freely work on the front of the engine as well as the top. then also paint everything when re assembled. FULL ACCESS to all except Bottom... Any thoughts, Input, Ideas, are greatly welcomed and Appreciated... First time doing this with an Antique so not sure of the UNKNOWNS.. NOT YET ANYWAYS !!

FOR SALE: 1929 Chevrolet 20" Steel Wheel $50 Plus Shipping & Handling Wheel is Solid and in Great Shape, I have Wire Brushed it & Cleaned it Up Some. 1929 20" Steel Wheel Pictures Have 2 of these for sale, both are in Same Shape/ Condition...

FOR SALE: 1929 Chevrolet Fuel Tank $75 Plus Shipping & Handling Tank is in Great Shape, has a Dent in the Center looks like one of the Straps was too tight, Did a Leak Test & Does Not Seem to Leak, Tank Is As Is Gauge Included as seen, Not sure if it Works or Need Rebuilding... 1929 Fuel Tank Pictures

Did some calculations and layout this morning... Used the information I pulled from my Engine as well as the Info provided by members here. Shaft Centerline is Approx 1.77 Inches above Machined Head Surface. Based on the STOCK numbers provided by Steve: Stem Above Head: 2.000 Rocker Arm Angle Valve Open:-1.50 deg Rocker Arm Angle Valve Closed:7.50 deg Illustration and Layout - Stock Based on the Current Configuration: Stem Above Head: 2.125 (Avg) Rocker Arm Angle Valve Open: 2.32 deg Rocker Arm Angle Valve Closed:11.50 deg Illustration and Layout - Current Based on this information going from stock to the current configuration, the Valve Stems are approx .125" higher than stock, which changes the angle of the Rocker Arm by Approx 4 deg. and requires the adjusting screw to be adjusted by approx .11 in. Push Rods remain stock length. Now does a 4 degree INCREASE on the Rocker Arm ANGLE have that much of an adverse affect on the operation of the engine ?!? Remember this engine has only been idled by the previous owner, never put under load until i received it. I have put about 5 miles on it, and it seems to run great. Think once i get the rocker arms rebuilt it will be even better. At this point I am going to leave the Spring Assemblies alone UNLESS there is Concern ?!?

Did a Valve Check today... Removed Rocker Arms and then Measured w/ My Calipers the distance from the machined Head surface to the top of the stem. Surprisingly all are VERY close in Numbers: Numbers goe with my RED Dims per my Pictures Cylinder 1 Exhaust:...2.128 Cylinder 1 Intake:....2.128 Cylinder 2 Intake:....2.129 Cylinder 2 Exhaust:...2.129 Cylinder 3 Exhaust:...2.121 Cylinder 3 Intake:....2.103 <-- LOW Cylinder 4 Intake:....2.136 <-- HIGH Cylinder 4 Exhaust:...2.121 Cylinder 5 Exhaust:...2.130 Cylinder 5 Intake:....2.128 Cylinder 6 Intake:....2.124 Cylinder 6 Exhaust:...2.123 Cylinder 3 Intake was a little low, but IF they machined the valve seat, maybe this one had LESS material removed ?!? Where as Cylinder 4 Intake maybe had MORE material removed ? ? Compare this to the Info Posted By Steve that the 1929 had a Stem Length of 2.000, would mean that my valve stems are just 0.125 taller/ longer than stock... Figure: They SEAL & SEAT, Seem to function Properly... I can live with that, unless there should be some concern.

Here are some numbers I Pulled from my 1929 Hydrid Head tonight: Intake & Exhaust Valve Head Diameter Nominal: unknown Stem Length: unknown Stem Dia: .340 Style of Stem Mod: Collar Valve Lift: ~.217 Spring Details Outer Dia: 1.323 Wire Dia: .169 Cap Details Cap OD: ~1.27 Cap Thickness: ~.108 My Numbers for Pictures Stem Length: ~2.123 Valve Closed Spring Length: ~1.801 Valve Closed Compared to the STOCK numbers previously posted in BLUE Larger Stem Dia ...means valve bores were bored out/ modified to fit new valve stem dia

Intake & Exhaust Valve Make: Own Material: Extruded Steel Head Diameter Nominal: 1 11/32 Stem Length: 4 23/32 Stem Dia: 5/16 Style of Stem Mod: Key Tappet Clearance: .006 Hot Int & .008 Hot Exh Spring Pressure: 45 lb Valve Closed Valve Lift: .277 Are Stem Guides Removable: Yes Are Oversize Valve Stems Made: No Overhead Valve Lubrication: Yes (Consider they are the same valves) Page breaks it into TWO columns, one for Intake one for Exhaust.

Ok Went out Last night and looked at the Valves, Springs, Retainer Caps, And Retainers (keys) Looking at them the end of the Valves look great, BUT I do not see the Keys that look like the picture on TFS of C&P !? Are these the right valve Caps & Retainers on my 1929 ?? Valve Assembly Pict 01 Valve Assembly Pict 02 Valve Assembly Pict 03 Valve Assembly Pict 04 Valve Assembly Pict 05 Valve Assembly Pict 06 From the looks, they look like they have either been REBUILT or REPLACED, in the parts box I got with the car, there was a used valve or two in there and 7 Valve Springs. No Retainer Caps or Keys. Thanks...

could also do a Leak down Test, see IF the Cylinders will hold Compression. I know that each cylinder has about 75 PSI when last checked. NEED to see if it will hold compression and how long it can or how long till it drops x amount of PSI. Will also do a GOOD LOOKY SEE and see if there are ANY VISIBLE Sings of Wear n Tear. Double checking the CAPs n Keys.

Now that I am having my Rocker Arms resurfaced & rebuilt, I am going to double check the rest of the TOP HALF of the engine as well. Is there ANY WAY to Check the Valves (Intake & Exhaust), Valve Springs, Valve Spring Caps, Valve Keys?? Want to make sure they are in condition to run & operate. Any way to I cad tell if they are GOOD or NEED to be replaced WITH OUT Removing the HEAD ?? Yeah I am NOT going to drive my car a million miles in a year, but i do WANT it to RUN Properly and not have to be worried about something breaking or coming apart. yeah I KNOW it is an Antique and poo happens. just trying to be preventative and proactive. Since I am in there Want to check out the other parts as well !! Figure look it all over check it out, assess it, and replace it if needed...

I will do a VISUAL Inspection when i pull the rocker arm assemblies off. pull the rods, check em and check the Tappets/ Valve Guides for wear n tear and any flaking or deterioration. Yeah not putting HIGH mileage on it, but want to make sure it is going to run properly and for a long time, and want to check everything while i am in there and it is apart. Not having to tear it all apart later because I did NOT check while I had the chance.

When I go to have my Rocker Arms Rebuilt here soon I am going to double check the rest of the TOP HALF of the engine as well. Figure would be a good time to check tappets and replace if needed... Is there ANY WAY to Check the Valve Tappets ?? For Fit Wear, etc... How can I tell if they are OK/ good or NEED to be replaced ?? Number Two on the TOP HALF Engine List is replacing the Valve Push Rods & Push Rod Ends, as of now I have a mix of Original 2 Piece Valve Push Rods & Push Rod Ends and some Single Piece Valve Push Rods. Would like them all to be original style and this will also ensure that they are straight. Going to go with the 'Billy Possum' C&P Automotive ones. 'These rods are exactly as the original rods in appearance, but are induction heat treated on the ends (about ¾”) to give longer life. The push rod ends are case hardened as were the originals' Also would be a C&P Item 'One of the most common engine parts to fail. Typically the surface bearing on the camshaft fails due to metal fatigue. These case hardened tappets are ground with a shallow radius on the bottom to cause rotation, essential to long tappet life.'

Also Checked the Bushings... Bushings 01 Bushings 02 They are Split style bushing. You can see there is some pitting and wear in the bushing, all are the about the same. They is some play, and some are a little Sloppy Shaft OD---.714 Bushing ID-.728 --------------- Variance---.014 So NEW bushings as well... Shafts, well they are a little pitted in places, and show some wear Shaft 01 Shaft 02 So either some NEW C&P Shafts OR resurface & grind the ones I have (SAME COST)

Pulled my Rocker Arm Assemblies off today and decided to check the TIPS out. Took some pictures, and then measured the Tips at their thickness point on the LEFT side of rib then the RIGHT side of the rib. With a closer look you can tell that the TIPS were done with some sort of Brass/ Bronze Material, or at least that coloration and YES it is really soft, tested it with a file, real easy to file and really SOFT. Was done a while back as you can tell from the pictures. They are pitted, distorted and worn out, looks like the Valve Stems have been BEATING THEM UP !! The numbers say it all: Rocker Number Thickness Lt - . Rt (Diff) Cylinder 1 Exhaust:---.278 - .271 (.007) Cylinder 1 Intake:----.315 - .324 (.009) Cylinder 2 Intake:----.270 - .276 (.006) Cylinder 2 Exhaust:---.266 - .284 (.018) Cylinder 3 Exhaust:---.259 - .276 (.017) Cylinder 3 Intake:----.274 - .279 (.005) Cylinder 4 Intake:----.247 - .249 (.002) Cylinder 4 Exhaust:---.286 - .267 (.019) Cylinder 5 Exhaust:---.245 - .261 (.016) Cylinder 5 Intake:----.253 - .294 (.041) Cylinder 6 Intake:----.279 - .278 (.001) Cylinder 6 Exhaust:---.251 - .268 (.017) Now a Picture Says a THOUSAND WORDS... Rocker Arm Cylinder 1 Rocker Arm Cylinder 2 Rocker Arm Cylinder 3 Rocker Arm Cylinder 4 Rocker Arm Cylinder 5 Rocker Arm Cylinder 6 Smooth and Round they are NOT !! Well not anymore...

doing a quick look over the Rocker Arm Assembly... Looks like somewhere along the line someone welded some up, well tried to. Can anyone confirm that these are the RIGHT rocker Arm Assemblies that should be on my First Generation 1929 ?? Here are some shots of the Rocker Arms: This is the First Cylinder from 3 angles Rocker Arm Assembly Pict 01a Rocker Arm Assembly Pict 01b Rocker Arm Assembly Pict 01c Rocker Arms to Valve Stem Head on Pictures Rocker Arm Assembly Cyl 1 Rocker Arm Assembly Cyl 2 Rocker Arm Assembly Cyl 3 Rocker Arm Assembly Cyl 4 Rocker Arm Assembly Cyl 5 Rocker Arm Assembly Cyl 6 Shot of the Top Half Looking from 1 to 6 Also seems that the Arm can EASILY be moved around, not just side to side, but they can be rocked on the shaft [left to right]. Telling me the bushings are SHOT !! On the Bright side, the Adjusting Screws & Nuts LOOK Great, they all spin and turn easily and threads look great. So these should be GOOD to GO !!

Ok found a few places that are experienced in the Realm of resurfacing the Rocker Arms. Also they will chrome plate the shaft or replace it will one of C&P 's Chrome Moly jobs. They tumble the rocker arms to reduce stress that has built up, which makes sense. they build up the surface and then contour the rocker arm valve face. they also will ream out the rocker arms and install new bushings, the bushings will be grooved and hole drilled for the wick feed. The bushing will be reamed to mount properly on the shaft. I am also going to replace the springs and clips. a few of the springs are beyond shot !! Will also put in new WICKS. Man I am excited !! now just to get time to remove them and send them out. Said about 3 weeks turn around, so gives me time to do other things as well... ELECTRICAL