BearsFan315

Been Using if for years around 10+ now, on my 1929 & 1930 Chevrolet parts... I like that is WORKS and is NON-Toxic, and safe for plastics :) also did a radiator engine cooling system cleaning with it, was great, basically ran it in car for about 3 months, heat cycles work great and MAN it did a great job in the block and head as well as radiator. I did run a filter screen (GANO) in the return line to he radiator to keep any gunk out of it !! i put it in old peanut butter plastic jars for small parts n pieces. when it stops working, then start a new batch got 1-1/2 gallons of it in my garage, still using for other things...

I have used The KBS Coatings XTC on my 1929 & 1930 great results and still looks great !! prep is key as is following the curing directions ! and these guys have great customer support and help I Used the xTreme Primer and the xTreme Jet Black Matte both in the rattle can

technology is emerging everyday !! last 20+ years i had been doing sketches, drawings, models. from paper, to CAD to 3 design. we strictly do all our new products in 3 models. and straight to the foundry from there. we design the model based on the process to be used. we also have been going back and modeling older products from hand drawings. it can be a trial and error process. also have scanned in existing parts for modeling. then tweak, add material, modify features, etc... i did design work for years and spent last few years managing and validating model and developing the process and techniques we use to develop these models. there are a millions ways to get there, and it all comes down to your intent i love staying on top of the technology and learning and figuring out how to implement into our day to day business.

I have been trying to acquire one of the Arrow cars from Busch Gardens here in Williamsburg, Virginia. they had Bearcat Replicas they used on the LeMans Raceway when opened in 1975. I loved as a kid. my grandparents took us there once a year or so and that was my favorite ride. i got to drive a car alongside my grandfather who sat shotgun. I would love to get one of these old cars, and just cruise around it in, granted it is only 1/4 scale or so, they were fun and cool. I just finished restoring my 1929 Chevrolet, so I would like to find one running and operational but if not this would be a fun project to do I have contacted the park directly and spoken to the ones in charge of the warehouse. it seems they have sold them off over time since they closed the ride, they still own one, it was converted to electric for a parade they used to do few years back. so now trying to find someone that has one that is willing to part with it to a good home of course !! it will have a great life like my 1929 Chevrolet, spoiled and enjoyed. Short video of the LeMans Raceway...

LOOKING GOOD ! I have been trying to acquire one of the Arrow cars from Busch Gardens here in Virginia. they had Bearcat Replicas they used on the LeMans Raceway when opened in 1975. I loved as a kid. my grandparents took us there once a year or so and that was my favorite ride. i got to drive a car alongside my grandfather who sat shotgun. I would love to get one of these old cars, and just cruise around it in, granted it is only 1/4 scale or so, they were fun and cool. I just finished restoring my 1929 Chevrolet, so I would like to find one running and operational but if not this would be a fun project to do.

https://www.evapo-rust.com/evapo-rust-faqs/

I'm with Matt done both my 1929 & 1930 with the Evapo-Rust ThermoCure it is safe and actually could leave it in and run it non stop. It is NON-Toxic, NON-corrosive !! I put it in my 1930 per instructions, and ran it for the season. driving it every weekend or so normally. then drained flushed and put in 50/50 mix antifreeze and distilled water. it really cleaned out hte system and removed the rust !! i used a filter before return to the radiator to keep any pieces out of the radiator !! dont want to clog that up !! if you do a search on here there are MANY MANY AACA folks that have done the EvapoRust on their antiques and are happy. https://www.evapo-rust.com/thermocure/

cant predict the weather... we go to hunt look and visit for parts and memorabilia as well as old friends and make new ones plus around here we always tell everyone that if you don't like the weather wait 15 minutes, it will change

Actually car is 95% complete... not really looking for anything this year, but will be walking the fields and visiting friends as always and we will be by to visit Terry in his spot, IF he is there and not out hunting never come home empty handed so see what we stumble across

a few of the NOS Temp Sensor, same concept but looks like they may have changed the layout some vs the original. Both made by the same manufacturer as noted on the caps

a Few of the Old Temperature Sensor

a Few Picts of the OLD Temp Sensor (Black) and the New to me C&P Automotive Temp Sensor (Bare Metal)

did a test run.... ambient temp was around 80F clear sunny, low humidity. drove approximately 5.5 miles, 25-30 MPH, back roads, but lots of stop and go. car warmed up quickly to 140F before leaving (approx 10 minutes idling) drove around and and few miles in was up to 180F temp stayed around 180F when moving 25mph, stopping and going bumped up to 190F and pushed near 200F. when pulled in drive and shut off, temp creeped up to 210F (Heat Soak)

Installed the AutoMeter in the standard head location where the 1929 Temp Sensor goes, as it is a standard 1/2" NPT port. ran tube out away from engine, down the side along where the inside rim where the fender lip runs, then up through the floor with the wire bundle, then clamped the gauge next to the steering column.

my temp sensor on my 1929 is not working, and found Gary W found one, it is a C&P Automotive "Billy Possum"in the meantime i picked up a mechanical Temperature Gauge to run to monitor the temps. I purchased one from Speedway that did 100-260F however when i bench tested it the temps were 20-30F off. send it back and they sent a replacement, bench tested and it was even worse. 30-40F off. Finally went out and got an AutoMeter 120-240F and it is nearly spot on !! bench testing was done with a pot of water and a standard thermometer and a digital laser temp gun. going from 100-220F about every 10F.

yeah, the chain method typically works for open tanks, not very good with the baffle tanks. i would do similar to what i noted above minus the chain, as the concrete etch is basically Phosphoric Acid. the phot above was first round of etch, after 2 rounds it looks like new, and still does. that stuff is great, but be careful it is an Acid.

when i had to do my 1930 tank, i drained the tank, filtered the gas, used it in mower, then i rinsed out tank a couple times then tossed in 2 pieces of chain, each about 16" long (links were approx 1 " long), then shook it around by hand, rolled it around, then rinsed out, did this twice. then went to home depot picked up concrete etch/metal prep, sealed up the tank, put plugs in the threaded holes, taped up the open one, and poured in the gallon, let it sit and rotated the tank every 10-15 minutes. made sure all sides were covered, then poured the etch back into its container. rinsed out the tank really good, validate cleanliness, then primed and painted the tank, reinstalled and away i went. still looks great. got to keep the moisture out of it. fuel dumped out of the tank inside of tank after water rinse tank after chain sloshing tank after etch & rinse

SOLD on way to new home

After all this, i decided to stick with the LED #74475been very happy with them, though i do NOT drive around at night. i did post a short video of me turning the car around.

Test 04 #74474 LED

Test 03 #78989 LED

Test 02 #68645 LED

Test 01 #1188 Incandescent Bulb

Test 00 No Light

Going to put my updated info in this post, as this post is about LED headlamps Back in May I did some more testing of Some LED Bulbs I recently purchased Here is the order of testing: 00 No Light 01 #1188 Incandescent Bulb 02 #68645 LED 03 #78989 LED 04 #74474 LED They were all tested in my garage, same car, same battery, etc... only about 10-15 minutes between bulbs swaps. ( yeah I got pretty good at swapping out bulbs ) also no bulbs were harmed or touched in this process Note the tape on the garage door (Not perfect but) the top most tape is centerline of my 1929 then there is a lower tape on the left and one on the right they mark the center point of the light buckets took several pictures of each bulb 1 from windshield forward 2 from radiator cap forward 3 standing at door looking at headlamps (looking down) 4 at door looking head on into headlamps 5 standing on passenger side at garage door looking at radiator 6 standing on drivers side at garage door looking at radiator all specs, pictures of bulbs are in the attached image (spreadsheet) All bulbs tested were purchased from : LEDLight.com ...great service, great prices, quick delivery. have bought from them several times, no issues