BearsFan315

I am looking for someone who can Rebuild 1929 Rocker Arms Properly as I Need to have the Rocker Arms on my 1929 Chevrolet 194 Rebuilt. They need to be Welded up, then ground & shaped PROPERLY. Possible hardened as well. Would like someone who is experienced and will provide a QUALITY end result that will last me a LONG time. Any leads would be appreciated. I talked with Bill (Billy Possum) over @ C&P Automotive, they no longer provide there Rocker Arm Rebuild Service as they are unable to find anyone locally that can rebuild the Rocker Arms with Quality Results. Once I can find someone to do this service I will have my Rocker Arm Assemblies Rebuilt w/ New Shafts, Bushings, Springs, Clips, Wicks. From what i can see the Valve Adjustment Screws & Locking Nuts are in great shape, they all move freely and are NOT marred up. If the Rocker Arm Place can do this would like to have it all done in one shot so the bearings can be reamed to fit the shafts properly. I will be getting the parts from Bill, or one of his outlets Need to debate if I want to PULL the Head and have the valves check and maybe the seats cleaned and filed for proper valve seating. and also look at new Spring Caps & Keys. Maybe NEW Valve Springs as well. Also will put in NEW Valve Push Rods & Push Rod Ends as what I have now is a mixed bag of the original 2 piece and some later one piece rods. Also what about replacing the Valve Tappets ?? any way to determine if the ONE I have are worth keeping or need replacing ?? ANY and ALL help is appreciated... yeah the Engine was NOT REBUILT it was OVERHAULED, as we all know from reading my threads...

thanks for all the info & feedback... Main goal is to do it right and only have to do it once !! seems like it is different strokes for different folks... But should i go ALL GRAY Intake & Exhaust, or ALL BLACK ?!? Maybe Engine Color on INTAKE and then Exhaust Either Black or Manifold Gray >!<

Liability !!

Going to Blast & Paint my Manifolds on my 1929 When I tear the top half town. Based no my reading Here and Elsewhere Most people Paint the Intake the same color as the Engine, then the exhaust goes all over the color spectrum. Most seem to Go Cast Iron Gray, so it looks like a fresh Casting. Seen em all Colors though... Question is what is the BEST & MOST Durable High Temp Paint/ Coating for an Exhaust Manifold. Here are some that I Found: Paint/ Coating for Manifolds POR-15® - High Temp Paint KBS Coatings - Xtreme Temperature Coating Eastwood - Hi-Temp Coating VHT - FlameProof™ Coating Eastwood - Calyx Manifold Coating Other - Post n Tell

My Head Intake & Exhaust Valve Head Diameter Nominal: unknown Stem Length: unknown Stem Dia: .340 Style of Stem Mod: Collar Valve Lift: ~.217 Spring Details Outer Dia: 1.323 Wire Dia: .169 Cap Details Cap OD: ~1.27 Cap Thickness: ~.108 My Numbers for Pictures Stem Length: ~2.123 Valve Closed Spring Length: ~1.801 Valve Closed

If you notice in the pictures, It looks like someone along the way did a Valve Job on my 1929 head. I am trying to determine IF what they did will work effectively and efficiently on my 1929 or do I need to get a new 1929 head and get all stock components. Stock Intake & Exhaust Valve Info Make: Own Material: Extruded Steel Head Diameter Nominal: 1 11/32 Stem Length: 4 23/32 Stem Dia: 5/16 Style of Stem Mod: Key Tappet Clearance: .006 Hot Int & .008 Hot Exh Spring Pressure: 45 lb Valve Closed Valve Lift: .277 Are Stem Guides Removable: Yes Are Oversize Valve Stems Made: No Overhead Valve Lubrication: Yes

Thanks Eric... I have a copy of those Specifications, they give some vital Info I needed up front.

I am looking for a 1929-1931 Engine Head that can be Utilized for a Top End Rebuild for my 1929 Chevrolet Prefer to have a 1929 Head Un Modded or Altered !! Will entertain the option of getting a 1930 or 1931 Head as well since they are interchangeable Also interested in a Complete Head Assembly if out there. Head w/ Valve Assembly & Rocker Arm Assembly.

Can someone provide me with some Measurements ?? Looking for some Dimensions on a 1929-1931 194 Engine with stock Components... I know that the Valve Head Dia varies, but the length is the same, Same Rocker Arms are used Casting No: 835549, and the Push Rods are interchangeable as well. So these Dimensions SHOULD be Pretty Darn Close on all 1929-1931 Engines !! Previous Owner seems to had a Head job done, want to know if what i have matches stock !! I need to know what the distance is from the top machined surface of the head (where the spring sits) to the TOP of the Valve Stem. WHEN THE VALVE IS CLOSED !! I want to see what the STOCK is vs what I have. Then the Length of the SPRING from Same machined Surface up to the top of the Spring, NOT INCLUDING THE CAP. Also a Stock Push Rod Length would be nice, so I can verify IF those were modded or not. Distance from Lifter end to Cup end (including cap on 1929-1930 engines) GREATLY APPRECIATE IT...

Well in working on my 1929 When I went to take it out on the Maiden Voyage I discovered that I could NOT secure the doors shut, not all four anyways. As I was Missing a few striker plates and a few Cover plates. Cover Plates are not required to secure the door, more aesthetics than anything. Talked with few Antique Chevrolet Parts Suppliers, and none had any in stock. So I ventured out to local shops to see if they could reproduce the parts for me. I created drawings for the build. Found a few sheet metal shops willing to build me some cover plates, since i had drawings and could provide files to feed the info to the cutters. Got my first samples back a few days ago. Had them laser cute the pattern out, then me do the breaks (bending) have to say I am very impressed with the results. I am going to countersink the holes to match the wood screws that hold them in. so when they are installed they will be FLUSH !! Here are some shots Green part is the existing one I pulled off to create my drawings & patterns. Metal color are the produced parts. can see the flat pattern then the bent final part. 1929 Door Cover Plate Pictures In case you are wondering, 'Where do those go' Striker Plate Installed Striker Plate Missing Other shop should have my rough machined striker plates here soon... I hope they turn out just as good !! those will be complete ready to install, other than painting...

I did a double check and checked the RPM based on the Crankshaft Pulley. Crankshaft: ~600 RPM Fan: ~900 RPM Generator Pulley: ~1200 RPM When I adjust the RPM to less then 600, it starts to sputter n stutter... What am I missing, doing wrong, need to check, adjust ??? I did double check and adjust the valves HOT

Fine tuning my 1929 and wondering what the recommended RPM at Idle is ?? Per 1929 Chevrolet Repair Manual I used a laser tach today and see that mine is idling around 850 rpm... Tested by Revolutions of Fan Blade, or is there a better place to check revolutions ??

Question about Setting Valves... In my 1929 Chevrolet Repair Manual it states .008" gap for BOTH Intake and Exhaust Valves. In my 1929 Inst for Oper and Care it states .006" gap on Intake, .008" gap for Exhaust. With this difference, what SHOULD be Used. I set mine via the 1929 Inst for Oper and Care with .006" gap on Intake, .008" gap for Exhaust. I did STOP engine and do warm adjustments at that time, I tried to do it while idling, but guess it takes some practice and skill not to damage your feeler gauges and adjust.

I am fine tuning my 1929 and am in the market to get a tachometer to be able to check the engine, generator, etc... RPM's Anyone have any recommendations or experience with certain brands/ models ??? I was looking at something like this CyberTech Digital Photo Tachometer Pretty Simple, Cheap, and gets good reviews ?? ...it is a NO contact item ...place reflective strip on surface, run it and check RPM's Also does anyone have a Mounted Tach in their Antique/ Vintage ?? May be interested in using one inside for driving & monitoring. ...Does it have to be 6v, or will a 12v one work ?? ...Best way to connect for accurate readings !?

Ok, did some research and reading in my manuals and on here. It seems that the standard setting for a generator is output of about 10 AMPS. I am going to try and fine tune the generator and work on the electrical on my 1929, 6v system. Everything i read talks about setting the output to 10 AMPs but I will be using a Volt Meter, so What VOLTAGE output should i be Looking for and Setting to ?? 7.2-8.0 Volts ?? and at what RPM, I will have to get a tachometer as well, so that I can coordinate this all. What should the output be at idle ?? or is it irrelevant at idle ?? Any tips trick, as I want to make sure the Third Brush will be set correctly for the proper output.

I Agree Definitely a NICE car, and a FULL Restoration is in store...

Wow... I have to thanks you Dave, cause that reminds that there is always WORSE out there. i Thought MINE was a SLUDGE Mess in my 29 Chevrolet when I got it !! 1929 Chevrolet 194 01 1929 Chevrolet 194 02 1929 Chevrolet 194 03 Sad part was when I dropped the pan, there was NO screen or filter on the Oil Pump :!

Thanks, they are on my 'to call" list along with The Filling Station

I am looking for someone who can Rebuild 1929 Rocker Arms Properly as I Need to have the Rocker Arms on my 1929 Chevrolet 194 Rebuilt. They need to be Welded up, then ground & shaped PROPERLY. Possible hardened as well. Would like someone who is experienced and will provide a QUALITY end result that will last me a LONG time. Any leads would be appreciated. I talked with Bill (Billy Possum) over @ C&P Automotive, they no longer provide there Rocker Arm Rebuild Service as they are unable to find anyone locally that can rebuild the Rocker Arms with Quality Results. Once I can find someone to do this service I will have my Rocker Arm Assemblies Rebuilt w/ New Shafts, Bushings, Springs, Clips, Wicks. From what i can see the Valve Adjustment Screws & Locking Nuts are in great shape, they all move freely and are NOT marred up. If the Rocker Arm Place can do this would like to have it all done in one shot so the bearings can be reamed to fit the shafts properly. I will be getting the parts from Bill, or one of his outlets Need to debate if I want to PULL the Head and have the valves check and maybe the seats cleaned and filed for proper valve seating. and also look at new Spring Caps & Keys. Maybe NEW Valve Springs as well. Also will put in NEW Valve Push Rods & Push Rod Ends as what I have now is a mixed bag of the original 2 piece and some later one piece rods. Also what about replacing the Valve Tappets ?? any way to determine if the ONE I have are worth keeping or need replacing ??

Thanks for all the Info & Insight... guess that car would be a BEAST with the 440 in it !! From the info I have I agree that the 383 was the STOCK engine. Hopefully will get a chance to get over there this weekend and take a look at it. Maybe get some pictures. Will also find out when the last time it was driven and/ or run. Take a good look at outside look for dings, dents, rust, etc... as well as the inside and the upholstery and instrumentation. Pop the hood and take a look underneath and see what is in there. Look at the under carriage and see how that looks. will talk with her and see what she wants for it and maybe work a deal and at the least will help her unload it to a GREAT HOME :!)

I have a friend of a neighbor that recently passed, and spouse is looking to sell a 1970 Chrysler Town & Country 9 Pass Wagon, Beige/ Tan with Wood Side Panel. All Original Paint & Interior, Garage kept, One owner. Hoping to go by this weekend and take a close look at it maybe get some pictures and more information. Not sure what engine, but assume it is the 383. Will find out. Question 1: What is the Desire/ Demand for one of these Cars, as well as the Selling Price Range they should look at. Question 2: What should I look at in particular to help Value the car ?? Milage, Color, Condition, etc.. Any Special Features to look for or options to check for ?? ANY and ALL help would be appreciated, also They are looking to Sell it to a GOOD HOME, someone that will Value it and Keep it in Shape and Enjoy it most of all... Any questions, feel free to ask me.... Thanks for the Help !!

I have a friend of a neighbor that recently passed, and spouse is looking to sell a 1970 Chrysler Town & Country 9 Pass Wagon, Beige/ Tan with Wood Side Panel. All Original Paint & Interior, Garage kept, One owner. Hoping to go by this weekend and take a close look at it maybe get some pictures and more information. Not sure what engine, but assume it is the 383. Will find out. Question 1: What is the Desire/ Demand for one of these Cars, as well as the Selling Price Range they should look at. Question 2: What should I look at in particular to help Value the car ?? Milage, Color, Condition, etc.. Any Special Features to look for or options to check for ?? ANY and ALL help would be appreciated, also They are looking to Sell it to a GOOD HOME, someone that will Value it and Keep it in Shape and Enjoy it most of all... Any questions, feel free to ask me.... Thanks for the Help !!

One thing about Antiques.... They are ONLY worth what Someone is WILLING to Pay !! Does NOT matter what YOU think it is Worth, just a reason to keep it

WOW... have to agree, better then christmas Also better Grab a Snickers or Two, cause you are going to be awhile !! should be TONS of FUN ( LITERALLY ) Any 29 Chevrolet Parts >?< Keep me in mind

Just bought me an Optima and would recommend it to anyone... More importantly BATTERY MAINTAINER !! a good Quality One !! Bought me A Battery Tender Plus 6v