BearsFan315

Spent some more time messing with the Tune Up, trying to figure out WHY it would not idle or run smooth. Talking with my friends on the VCCA decided to look for vacuum leaks. Using an old timer trick broke out a can of carb cleaner and spray small burst around intake manifold, nothing. That is a sign of relief, then did a few small burst around the carb gasket, and there it was. has a leak all around the gasket. so now need to remove the carb and replace the gasket... All for another night

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Have a NEW Battery Tender® Plus 8V @ 1.25A (PN 021-0152) For Sale, Complete MINUS Package, Bought it as I was gong to convert my Antique to 8v but changed my mind. So You get a Steal of a Deal... The Battery Tender® Plus is a 1.25 amp battery charger designed to fully charge a battery and maintain it at proper storage voltage without the damaging effects caused by trickle chargers. Included is a quick connect harness for hard to reach areas. Temperature compensated to ensure optimum charge voltage according to ambient temperature. Automatically switches from full charge to float charging mode. Battery Tender® at 1.25 amps will charge as fast or faster than any 3 amp charger available. Reverse Polarity Protection to ensure user safety. Red & Green Lights Alternately Flash in this condition. Complete 4-step charging program (Initialization, Bulk Charge, Absorption Mode, Float Mode). Battery Tender® applies a 1.25 amp charge to the battery until the battery is fully charged. Once fully charged, Battery Tender® automatically switches to a safe storage mode where it reduces the charging amperage and maintains the battery at a constant 9.2 to 9.6 volts DC. This constant low amperage keeps the battery fully charged and ready-to-go. Battery Tender® can virtually monitor a battery for years without overheating, boiling over, harming, or causing any reduction in the battery's useful life. Complete Battery Tender with Tender w/ two attachments -Battery Clips -Battery Lugs Asking $50 Complete Including Shipping to ANY Continental US Address !!

Since brakes are to a complete point, still need to do a test and then install all the cotter pins in the linkages and clevis. that is ALWAYS FUN !! I decided to tear down the bottom of the engine, remove oil pan and clean it out one more time. there was a little sludge, but I can live with that compared to what I started with !! Also checked the oil pump and innards while I was there. also removed the FUZZ/ Rope Seal on the rear Bearing. Hoping this eliminates or at least REDUCES the oil leak I have. put it all back together, cleaned up the area and then filled it back up with oil... did a test fire and let it run for a few to get warmed up and circulating. figured I would do a FINE TUNE on the 1929 so changed out to the NEW wire set I got from Marx Parts, VERY NICE SET, put in the NEW AC Delco C87 gapped at .40, per VCCA Recommendation, changed to my new coil. and fired right up. broke out the timing light and messed with the timing to get it to the recommended 18 degrees. did not sound too happy so dropped it back till it smoothed out, at about 12 degrees or so. decided to call it a night, and will tinker with the plug gap and timing till it purrs and runs smooth...

Well spent some time adjusting brakes per the instructions in the Owners manual/ Repair Manual as well as Service News from 1929 :-) think I have everything set and seems to function properly. TRULY want to make sure they WORK PROPERLY BEFORE I do a test drive and can NOT Stop !! that would be scary !!

lol, NOTHING follows me home... wish a few Antiques or Classics would FOLLOW me home, or show up in my driveway :-)

I then reinstalled the assembly to the car. was tricky to get the assembly back in since had to find a way to keep the shoes spaced out so that the cam could go between them and still align with the two cap screws that held the assembly in. Found a Hex Coupling Nut of perfect size that solved this issue. Basically spread the shoes apart slid in the coupling nut then slid in the assembly from the back side and pushed out the coupling nut. Completed Assembly w/ New Trunnions Assembly Installed once completed, I readjusted and set the brakes. Then moved on to the Passenger Side, which took half the time, now that I knew what I was doing & how to do it. Installed and reset the brakes on this side. SO Now have all NEW trunnions installed... now need to move on to finishing the brakes up.

Well ventured out to replace my trunnions... was not as bad as I thought it would be but also not as easy as I hoped. Worked on the Drivers side first. Removed the Hex Cap Screw that holds to the outter side support on. As JYDog described had to pry this off. Had to fight with the old Pot Metal Trunnions, yeah they broke and crumbled, but the round portion that went thru the hole in the supports was stuck... Basically ended up removing the small brake assembly in order to drill out and clean out the rest of the trunnion stuck in the supports. In order to remove this assembly had to remove the castle nut and the front drum. Small Brake Assembly Removed & Cleaned then I cleaned the threads on the bolt for the brass nut, as well and cleaned & greased the moving components and related parts. Test Fit on Brass Nut I did a test fit of the New T6 Trunnions and found out that there was some interference with the brake part Trunnion Interference this Interference prevented the trunnion from being able to rotate, which is essential in adjusting the brakes, ince this is a pivot point. so to solve this I filed down the corners a bit and success. Trunnion Filed Corners once this was complete I assembled the parts back together Assembly w/o New Clevis Pin & Cotter Pin

Now have to wait for the front Trunnions to arrive from Gary Wallace and then I can get to setting the linkages and rods and then testing the brakes all around.

Ok, well took apart the passenger rear, stripped down the parts, then primed and painted. pretty much same as the drivers side routine. Adjusted Bracket to proper position Reassembled and set parts. installed components and then adjusted passenger brakes accordingly.

Once I had everything set I did a few pull checks to see if they engage and seat properly and they grab HARD, stop the axle !! this was all done by hand, none of the linkages are connected yet. Spun axle by hand, pulled level by hand so... I then checked alignment, as you seen in previous post the shoes were crossed/ crooked on the drums. Not anymore !! Top Down View Front View Looking back Rear looking Forward as you can see the shoes look great and are straight with the drums, YES !! Few Shots of the Hardware Up Close: Rear Hardware Front Hardware Axle Nut & Cotter Pin Now on the the Passenger Side Rear !!

Okay, so today I began putting all the Assemblies back on the 1929 to build a complete working brake assembly !! I put on the new hardware, new component assemblies. I also greased up moveing/ sliding components to ensure they move freely and easily and also to hopefully prevent corrosion. or at least slow it down some Looks Great, Made me feel good to see it all come back together !! I then followed the Repair Manual & G&D Instructions for setting the clearances on the Rear Brakes... Question: i do NOT have the same distance/ gap all the way around the shoe ?? is this correct, will the shoes change/ take shape after a few miles of use ?? I know the Shoes are pretty flexible...

Next I stripped down the hardware, YES the threads both internal and external were painted !! WHAT a PAIN Too remove !! Once stripped down i applied some primer and then a few coats of black. YES I protected the internal and external threads so as NOT to paint them !! Hardware All Painted up... Ready to Go also all New Clevis Pins and Cotter Pins Then I began to reassemble the components... One Side Complete Ready to go Looking Good I got all the Assemblies together and ready to install... tomorrow I begin Putting them back on the 1929 !!

Well finally got back out to work on my 1929 Brakes, been a While (actually since October). looking & reading over my previous posts on this subject, I finished removing all the drivers side rear brake hardware, springs. I adjusted the bracket in question to center it up on the drum, and check alignment. Once i was happy with the alignment i used my hub puller and removed the brake drum. I am only removing one side at at time so that i can use the other side as reference. Granted I am taking TONS of picts, always nice to have a reference Old Brake Springs/ Hardware Looks pretty worn and tired after all those years New Springs Ready to take over Brake Duty YES These are C&P Automotive (Billy Possum) Brake Springs !! First step is to removed paint from all the critical surfaces. Starting with the drum surfaces that the shoes ride on, both inside and out. BEFORE: Outside of Drum BEFORE: Inside of Drum as you can see they painted the entire drum, including the threads on the studs !! let the fun begin !! AFTER: Outside of Drum AFTER: Inside of Drum All Cleaned up and ready to go back to work...

OK, I am working on getting back to the brakes, mainly the rear. The front Brakes have been checked, cleaned, etc... Hoping they are done & ready to go. As for the Rear, From our discussions and looking at the pictures of my rear brake Bracket [External Brake Connecting Rod Support] (As discussed and shown in photos above) and comparing it to the pictures from Andys29 & Chip (in NC) It looks like I need to adjust this bracket to move the brakes shoes towards the outside of the vehicle so as to get them to seat square on the drums. Pictures: Question: What is the best way to adjust this bracket with out doing ay damage to it or surrounding parts, like the Drum ?? I need the drum to help know where the bracket needs to go (Alignment). I can talk to it with a BFH and see how that works, or try some sort of clamp/ vise ?? I have to do this to both sides on the Rear...

Alright... just uploaded the photos I took last night here in Portsmouth, VA. took about 500 photos, I did reduce the resolution to ease load time. Enjoy: Great Race 2014 - Portsmouth, VA

Well they were here, and now gone Have to say it was really nice to sit out and see them all come in, then get to talk to the owners, drivers, & navigators !! everyone was extremely friendly and just open to talking and telling stories of their trip down. Was also nice that our city Hosted a gathering for them, had some food & drink vendors out as well as a live band, plus it did NOT hurt that it was right on the waterfront overlooking the marina !! I took tons of pictures and will post them up tonight when I get home, and post a link here to see them all... Definitely glad I was able to watch and enjoy this event... would I do it again, MOST DEFINITELY !!

Well Tomorrow is the Day !! Cars are Scheduled to arrive starting around 530 pm, and will be staying overnight. Lots of stuff planned and going on for them being in town. Will be down there to see them come in, taking TONS of photos of each car, or so the plan is Only bad part is not sure where the finish line is yet or how/ path they are taking to get there. Yeah I know they do not even know till the day of that leg. Going to go down early so I can get near the line and get some great shots !!

Personally The Newer Plastic ones are great for parts Storage... Neighbor uses them for misc hardware, throw in nuts n bolts

Agreed... PREPARATION Is keep to any application of a coating or Painting !!

One of the guys at work built a new garage and then decided to coat his floors, he used a polyurethane since the epoxy tends to yellow and is not very UV tolerant. I will say that his floor is very nice, only problem is that it needs some sort of grip or additive for traction. very easy to clean and sweep, however if it has dust on it then it is SLICK like ice, and if a fluid spills on it, then it does bead up and very easy to clean or squeegee but it is also very dangerous as you can slip slide and never stop till you hit something . . . I know that when I do my floor I want some sort of grip or traction material in the paint/ sealer, granted it makes it more fun to clean, but safety first. It will be a WORKING Garage not a SHOWROOM Garage.

Not participating but I am going down to see them come in and possibly go see them out the following morning... See my Post here: The Great Race Stopping By my Town

This Saturday June 14 is the 45th Annual Car Show, Flea Market & Car Corral at Richmond International Raceway it will be hosted by Richmond Region's AACA !! Always a great swap meet and show I have gone the last 2 years and will be heading up that way Saturday Morning to scour the Swap Meet see if I can find any goodies, and then over to the Car Show to see the Cars/ Trucks... Anyone else here going ??

Great to hear... I am taking half a day to see them come in and hopefully get some pictures. May be able to see them off the following morning as well Considering it a Chance in a lifetime Not sure when/ if I will get this opportunity again