BearsFan315

how does it spin ? i know the cover goes on then the pulley seems like it would just sit there while the shaft spins since there is no drive or anything to make it spin. Flinger 01 Flinger 01 Key on Shaft

OK, finally back into the car again, nice weather and some time... Trying to figure out how to mount/ install the thrower Thrower, Crankshaft Oil.............835603 Here is how it was mounted/ installed when i removed the cover: Flinger is this correct, it has a keyway slot in it. does not seem right.

Went out and pulled the pulley off, thanks to my neighbor and his collection of pullers. Was a pretty easy job with the right tool, used a 4" 3 jaw puller. Then removed all the hardware holding the cover on, then gently with a small putty knife worked my way around the edges to break the seal of the RTV... WHAT A PAIN !! Head on Shot Spent some time cleaning up the cover & the face of the block Cover Underside Cover Topside Anyone Identify this, looks like a seal of the sorts. It spins around Seal ?! Also is this the oiler ? Oiler Pict 1? Oiler Pict 2? This is a close up of the Timing Gear, Looks like it is pretty new, so figuring it was replaced on the engine overhaul. Timing Gear Close Up 1 Timing Gear Close Up 2

Yeah, thinking of it makes sense. Dry Seal, Dry Shaft = Friction Once it gets in service and working, should spin happily !! here are some shots of the Pump I picked up Water Pump TFS

I did debate on upgrading to the Maintenance Free Water Pump a while back so will revisit that aspect as well. Also saw that you can get a Replacement Pulley for about $30 plus shipping from The Filling Station. Going to play with the Pulley and see IF i can drill it out and tap it. Fun part will be keeping the Pulley From turning.

Got the drivetrain pulled, and went to remove the fan blade and noticed that ONE of the bolts holding it in was not securely tightened. When i went to remove it it just snapped off !! the other one came out easily. Also noticed that the pulley had 4 tapped holes. Are four tapped holes in the pulley correct for a 1929 Pulley, considering it has a 2 blade fan ?? I was thinking of just swapping and bolting in the other two holes in the pulley but Looking closer it looks like one of the other tapped holes also has a broke off bolt !! Know to remove the pulley you have to remove pump and press it off. any thoughts ?>? seems only solution is to remove pump press off pulley and drill and tap out broken bolts...

Well got back out to the garage for the first time in MONTHS... made me some transmission guide pins so that i can pull the transmission from the engine. Transmission Guide Pins Transmission Guide Pins

Got the Driveline pulled out !! Slow and steady !! Driveline on Hoist Driveline on Stand Something is Missing !! Something is Missing !! Now will build the Transmission Support for the stand, and get ready to do some work...

Ok, got it all strapped up and ready to pull... Strapped up 1 Strapped up 2 Did an initial lift to see how the engine would raise... adjusted the straps to get the rear to lift first and more level.

Thought I would share some pictures... All I have to do is remove the distributor and the drivetrain is ready to come out ( I Hope ) 1929 Drivetrain Ready to Come Out Driver 1929 Drivetrain Ready to Come Out Passenger

Well spent some time prepping to remove the drive train in my 1929. Already removed the Manifold assembly and the Carburetor. First Removed the hood & Radiator. Then started to remove the surrounds. Removed both side Engine Splash Pans (What a Pain to remove the hardware) Also had to drop & remove the Exhaust to remove the drivers side pan. Also removed front bumper & apron, mainly to gain better access to the front. Also removed Starter & cable. Disconnected wires to generator and temp sensor. Hoping to get some time to remove the oil pressure line & fuel line. Think that removes all connections to the engine. Need to cut out my blank off plate so i can remove the transmission top cover. then will need to Disconnect speedo cable, unbolt transmission from cross shaft, and then unbolt the rear cover of the u-joint housing. Final step will be to unbolt the drive train from the frame. cardboard up the firewall for protection. and get ready to pull it out !! A Lot of work but first time doing this so taking my time and trying to be safe and precarious !!

Ok, got the bulk of it built last night... Engine Stand 1 Engine Stand 2 Engine Stand 3 Ready to drop the engine on it... Will build the Transmission Support when I get the Driveline out and set on here. To make it sure it is right.

Started up on the Stand... Where I am right Now: Engine Stand Pieces 1 Engine Stand Pieces 2 Engine Stand Side Rails Coming Together

Looks like something out of a Dr Suess movie/ Book !!

I recently bought a NEWer 6v battery, spent the money and got me the Optima Red Top Ordered from Amazon, they shipped, it arrived and they are a Certified Seller so the Warranty is good !! Also picked up a Battery Tender for it as well

Through Our local Club here I learned that there was going to be a Fall Meet down in New Bern, NC. 2016 Southeastern Fall Meet Brochure Cool thing is we Vacationed here last year in August. it is a quaint little town, lots to see and do, especially hunting for all the New Bern bear Statues around town (get the map and questions from the Conference Center Welcome Desk). Even more so if you are a Pepsi fan, since the birthplace is here, can get some memorabilia as well as a cold Pepsi from the fountain for under a dollar !! lots of history and everyone we ran into was very helpful and friendly !! So, anyone here going ?? I booked a hotel for the weekend to go down, probably will NOT have my 1929 ready yet. but should be there to check out the field and see anyone who shows up.

Yeah 3d printing is Growing like a weed in your flowerbed. I bought a small machine about a year ago. is great to model parts, then print and test them out. have made a few plastic parts for my car that work great.

Awesome !!

cool, there are replacement shoes/ pads available all day long from The Filling Station or many make their own order from McMaster Carr woven high strength material.

So it has an Automatic Transmission ? sounds like you need to rebuild the carb, at least take it apart and clean the jets and nozzles, and new gaskets. then reinstall and tune it. if you slowly accelerate does it sputter like this or only on hard acceleration ??

just did mine, has all new gears and shaft, have to return existing knob shaft or pay a core charge. comes with instructions, make sure you read them BEFORE you tear the old one apart !! Original before Rebuild Rebuild ready to go back on wood Close Up 1 Close Up 2 Will get cleaned up and metal primed and painted before reinstall.

Good Info Terry... & back to the top for more people to see I am Very interested to see how this years Meet pans out at the Military Aviation Museum. I will be there Friday to assist with set up and lay outs. Hoping for warm weather and Sunshine !! and yes Good Bye WINTER !!

I am posting this here for a friend who is selling a few extras from his collection, this is one of them: Can PM me or post here for more info... Truck is located up in South Mass !! This 29 has had dual wheel 32' axles put on it. All axles with trans were rebuilt 30 years ago and it's been in dry storage. Motor is free and did run/drive when stored. Starter and gen were also rebuilt when the chassis was. Sheet metal consists of 6 fenders, two good doors, cowl with cracks, good windshield frame, running boards, two hoods, most of the cab sheet metal (few pieces of bad wood), headlights and headlight bar. Good radiator, like new front tires, good gauges, NIB wiring harness. Chassis was epoxy primed but is real dirty after sitting 30yrs in an old barn. It's a good project and cheap. $1,200 best offer

I am posting this here for a friend who is selling a few extras from his collection, this is one of them: Can PM me or post here for more info... Car is located up in South Mass !! Offering for sale my recent barn find. I have gotten it running and it runs pretty darn good considering it hasn't run in over 10yrs. Currently has the wrong DR-0 carb on it and I have the RAJX carb for it but it needs parts. Car is missing the fuel tank. It is about 95% complete with little metal rust. Rust through areas are: front pass cowl about 1" high x 8" long area, pass side inner fender area, and both ends of front fenders. All rotted areas are basically flat metal repairs and easy to do. Wood work: Car needs both front hinge pillars, roof top sides and filler wood on sides, rear door drivers side hinge pillar (broken at top) and possibly the the dash mounting board at the top of cowl. Sills appear solid with maybe some small areas at bottom of pillar area that can have small pieces laminated in. Front roof header had been replaced years ago and that could be changed out if wanted. Replacing wood is fairly easy on this car due to the landau type roof with the sheet metal only half way up the car. 4 new (never on road but installed 10yrs ago) tires on disk rims. Car includes rim tool to change tires. All wiring appears to work fine at all lights and engine. Single exhaust port, 1927 engine. Windshield regulator parts are not with car. No glass in doors. Handles are mismatched on outside of car. Two sets of headlight with one set having corroded rims, three radiator shrouds with one serviceable and in good shape. Roof top cross members and slats in good usable shape. Chassis is in nice shape with lots of grime on it and some rust on the running board supports. Nothing sand blasting won't clean up. All original wiring is intact. Gauges are good and working other than speedo. Inner cable is missing. This is a really nice restorable car in original, unmolested condition. It's been stored for the past 45 yrs. Bill of sale only but was originally registered in MA. I have started working on this car and price will go up as more work is done and wood added. I can restore this car for anyone interested. From a roadworthy driver to a full restoration with new interior. Price as it sits right now and in the above condition, $3,200 Pictures available.

All the Chevrolets are Negative Ground