Farmallregular

If you find one that's the correct size, I'd be interested in the one you have...save me from having to fabricate something. Thanks, Keith

OP says all 12 cylinders have good compression and good spark, which basically leaves either ignition timing or fuel problems. Will it fire on starting fluid? If so, fuel issues are likely. If not, start with verifying ignition timing. Keith

On a model A the switch is between the coil and the points...that plus the armored cable to the distributor was Henry's way of keeping people from hot wiring them. Quick check, put test light (not a meter) on the coil terminals. One side should be hot all the time, the other side should pulse as the points open and close when cranking the engine. Steady light on both sides while cranking indicates an open circuit between the coil and points (which includes ignition switch), no light on either side indicates no power to coil, no light on point side indicates a short to ground between coil and points. Note that open and short circuits could also be the points themselves either not opening or not closing. Repo condensers are another known problem area, although I believe they typically fail open. Keith

The issue with the ignition coil is that you want the center post on the spark plug to be negative. It's hotter than the ground electrode, and therefore emits electrons easier. Starter & bulbs don't care, ammeter will read backwards (can be fixed by simply swapping the terminals on the back), generator will likely need to be re-polarized. Not sure what'll happen with electric gauges. Keith

1924 Dodge Touring, strictly limited to putzing around local back roads at 25 or 30 mph max. Oddball shift pattern (upside down 3 speed), oddball internal transmission design that makes it difficult to shift regardless of how good you are at double clutching, no front brakes, heavy steering, cramped driving position if you're not a little short guy (which I'm not), but still a fun car. My 1928 Model A drives like a dream in comparison.... Keith

In addition to previous suggestions, check the spark plug wires for cracks in the insulation, or just replace them. Vehicles of that era had copper spark plug wires, and if someone has replaced them with modern resistor wires it can cause misfires. A good auto parts store can get copper spark plug wire in bulk and the terminals for both ends. Keith

Not familiar with that specific car, but my initial suspicion is that the amber lights by themselves may not be drawing enough current to operate the flasher...common problem with LED light conversions. If that's the problem, you can buy load resistors to fool the computer. Where it's grounded shouldn't make any difference, although you never know what some manufacturer may have done. Are you required to disconnect the red turn signals? If not, might be easier to just leave them in place and pick up a feed from the front turn signal bulbs to operate the new lights in the rear. That way the amber lights won't come on with braking. Interesting problem, good luck. Keith

You need to describe the "jerking" a little better in order to narrow down potential causes. Is it like the engine is cutting out intermittently, or is it surging (speeding up), or something mechanical catching. A weak spark can cause an intermittent miss, particularly under load. An intermittent short in the ignition wiring can also cause misfiring. Surging is probably a fuel issue. Need a better description to do anything better than a guess. Keith

First thing to do is fix the problem with the starter not turning over the engine fast enough instead of getting hung up on the coil getting hot. You should not have to help it turn over with the crank. If it stops with the points closed the coil will get hot even if it's the right coil. Need to determine if the problem is the engine being too tight for the starter to turn or an electrical problem with the battery/cables/switch/starter. How hard is the engine to turn with the crank? You should be able to feel it come up on compression on each cylinder. Start with the battery, is it fully charged and of sufficient capacity? Are the cables in good shape and connections tight and not corroded? Are the contacts in the foot operated start switch clean and in good shape? If there aren't any problems with these, it may be an issue with the starter/generator itself. Keith

Learned to drive in an old International pickup with four speed (three plus granny low). Have had an assortment of both manual and automatic cars over the years, cars that other family members drive are all automatics. Made sure the kids could at least drive a manual, even though several of them were never good at it. One adult daughter actually prefers a manual.

Looks like Gemmer steering, here's a link to a previous discussion of removing the steering wheel:

Check the fuse on the top of the starter/generator. It's a rudimentary over voltage protection that opens the field winding if output voltage gets to the point that it drives too much current through the field windings. These cars depend on the battery for voltage regulation. Keith

I have a similar set of period fog lamps (not sealed beam) wired as turn signals on the front my Model A, look a lot better than the aftermarket turn signal lamps sold for such applications. I use forward facing yellow LED bulbs which are nice and bright..."white" LED's are not full spectrum like an incandescent bulb, so if you choose to use LED bulbs you get better results when the color of the bulb matches the color of the lens. Keith

The charger he shows is not a "smart" charger (I have a similar one), and will work if the battery will take a charge at all. It's highly unlikely that a battery that sat in a discharged state for any time will ever take enough charge to be useful, another vote for simply replacing it. Keith

Ask this same question on Vintage Ford Forum (www.vintagefordforum.com). There's a bunch of reference info on bringing a Model A back to life. Keith

That's a P-51 Mustang (air scoop under the wing is a giveaway), per Wikipedia the empty aircraft weighs 7,635 lbs, with a max takeoff weight of 12,100 lbs. Actual weight here would be somewhere between those two numbers depending on equipment and if there's any fuel left in the tanks. I can't believe anyone would try to move a valuable aircraft like that... Keith

Long skinny screwdriver used as a lever also works...

That's assuming someone somewhere along the line hasn't replaced cables and installed one with the wrong size battery connector. Verify which cable goes to ground before you connect the battery.

In addition to the above, remember, the vacuum fuel system can't pull fuel from the rear tank unless the engine is running to create vacuum, which is why you need to pre-fill the vacuum tank. Don't try to fill it full, a cup or two of fuel is plenty. Make sure the timing is retarded and open the hand throttle a couple notches. Pulling the regulator knob on the dash is the equivalent of choking a more modern car. If you have fuel, spark and compression it should fire (assuming no one's messed with the timing). Good luck, let us know what your find.

Just like having two batteries in parallel...twice the current (air volume) at the same voltage (pressure). I don't have any direct experience, but seems like you'd need a cross path to make sure one side of the engine doesn't get more boost than the other... Keith

It's not so much the touchscreen itself that's the problem...it's the software behind it. Too often the human interface seems to be designed by some software engineer who has absolutely no understanding of how people actually use the product. To the designer who's intimately familiar with the interface it'll seem intuitive, to everybody else it's confusing. Being able to operate controls by feel is a real advantage while you're driving. Keith

Ask the same question on Vintage Ford Forum (link in sticky above) Keith

Another thing to check is the exhaust hangers. If they're binding, they can transfer vibration from the exhaust pipe (solidly mounted to the engine) to the body/frame.

Where are you located? I have a K-7 with a clear Colorado title and a K-6 for parts that I'd part with for a fraction of that price. It's a project... Keith

More history: https://news.usask.ca/articles/general/2021/innovation-and-experimentation-straw-gas-car.php