Beemon

Is the filter the old pancake style? If so, you might want to take that apart first and give it a good rinse and make sure it's actually passing fluid through. it has one screw that you undo and it should come apart. If that doesn't do it, then it looks like a carburetor rebuild. Before you take it apart, check the sight plugs and see if the bowls are filling up. You might be able to get away with just removing the air horn and seeing if the needle and seat are gummed up. Is this a Rochester or Carter carb?

Did you confirm fuel was being pumped by the fuel pump?

The big car bumpers are wider than the small car bumpers, but I think the end bullet pieces are the same size. Sorry to hear your Buick got hurt

https://m.summitracing.com/parts/mrg-3701 The only problem is a one way check valve but you just have to reroute the vacuum lines. Ideally any coffee can will work, too, if it's sealed and has a barb fitting on it. I just found this the easiest to work with. What's wrong with your current tank?

The Mr Gasket reservoir can be made to fit in the same spot with flat stock and a drill motor.

Greg's concern is valid. I'm sure it wouldn't have been an issue if he was told what exactly his information was used for, but according to him this was not the case. All he's saying is that it's not fair for his information to be shared without his consent. They should have been more transparent on the issue. Like minded Buick enthusiasts or not, it is his opinion of the situation. Also Greg is an upstanding citizen of the forum here, he's a welcome friend and his concern shouldn't reflect poorly on his character.

I didn't use sheet metal screws on the plate. It was the same threads as the brass screws and I set them with loctite blue. I don't see why it would be any different between brass and steel if they're set the same way.

I may be a bit jaded here, mine came with one. I just assumed all Buicks were like mine. Matt, I think someone added that drain petcock.

Lol ok

Maybe not Teflon then, I concede. The original was braided stainless on the outside, though, as was obviously replaced with rubber hose in William's photos. William, how does the filter at the carb look?

I can't really speak for out of state, but the local 405 and 512 only take pictures of the front, to which I have no license plate.

I thought the original were braided stainless steel internally coated with teflon?

Save the trans and engine for someone who has an engine rebuild go bad!

*Puyallup. It's OK, a lot of people around here have issue with the name, too. If all else fails, you can always have the original wheel cylinders sleeved.

If it's all stock, it should have zero rubber hoses and a pancake filter at the the back of the carb.

The second dimmer switch is most likely the seek button for a selectronic radio. It's supposed to be hands free tuning with the touch of the foot. Verify that your fuel pump is working by attaching a rubber hose to the outlet and pointing it over the fender. If you're not getting a healthy stream when cranking the pump needs rebuilding. If you're getting fuel from the pump, pull the sight plugs on the carb and verify fuel is getting in. If the pump is pumping but the carb is dry, it could be a plugged fuel filter or stuck needle and seat.

Even if it never sees restoration, a Buick 5 window coupe with a 425 Nailhead would be a pretty sweet ride.

Thanks for the clarifications! Yes the accelerator pump works fine as it sits. The pump arm under the dust cap sits level just like it explains in the shop manual and makes the pump travel the full shot at WOT. If it's not native to Buick, then I wonder where the pump rod came from because the surface is machined so the pump bracket can only go on one way.

If you ever want to slow it down, you can have one of my 4GCs.

So I learned something today about the WCFB. Number casting goes towards the center on the butterflies, opposite of Rochester. The new choke screw heads are smaller than the old ones, but are also the same height. I think I cut the screws because they are sticking out just a bit from the shaft. And of course, held in with Loctite Blue, just like everything else. Thanks for the thread specs, Jon! PS, the drilled hole in the choke butterfly, is that normal? I also noticed my accelerator rod is not like other WCFBs, where its L shaped at the pump (mine is straight). The pump sits level under the dust cover, so I'm not too worried about it.

The pickup screen could also be plugged up, too. I had an issue to this similarly on my 02 Jeep. Pump gas is rated by price depending on their filtration process, I've come to find out. Cheap gas has lots more particulates than expensive gas, and even more so when the station tanks are filled, which can unsettle a lot of the settled dirt. In the end, I had to pull the fuel pump and soak it in solvent like seafoam, or injector cleaner. I also had to spray out the pickup in the tank. Once cleaned and put back together, I haven't had an issue since. This was before I got my Buick running, back when the jeep had its 10 year birthday. Ethanol is really gross when it builds up accumulation.

Recent as in a year and a half ago. These days I'm driving with 56 Buick parts only. The only upgrade on my Century is the addition of Roadmaster front drums and backing plates. The self energizing drums in my experience work much better than a clamp on disc system. The issue with my system was out of round drums, an easy fix. The car is my daily driver up and down big hills and I'm still alive! If you're serious about the disc swap, then look on ebay for the master cylinder conversion that puts it on the firewall in place of the plenum. It's designed to give you a 6:1 pedal, which is more than enough for discs since they require more pedal to clamp the disc. The stock system is a .5:1 pedal ratio and will give you nothing but a puckered sphincter.

I found the right screws at the specialty section of the hardware store under "gun screws". They're steel, but long so I need to cut them down. Also I just discovered a novice mistake - I put the primary butterflies in backwards. No wonder the carb wouldn't idle below 450. Anyways, I got it out. I had to completely drill it out with a 1/16 bit then chase it with a 5/64 bit to get it to unthread. Looking forward to these steel screws.

I would have felt right at home it seems.

Thanks for the links, Aaron. Carbs Unlimited is 10 minutes from me, but they're closed on the weekend. I'll try my local hardware store first - they have a really huge selection of screws, including small brass ones for light fixtures and such.