Beemon

did you remove the butterflies from the shaft when you disassembled? The butterflies can go on four ways but only one way is correct.

It is my firm believe that every amateur hobbyist should have a chemical distillery in their garage. Fortunately back home, we had a once-a-week waste disposal place that was within 10 miles. Not so much the case out here. Back in the urban environment of greater Seattle, we had many places that took just about anything. Now I'm in a small town out in the Washington wasteland where we have one O'Reilly's, one NAPA and one ma and pa auto store. I think there's only one repair shop in town, too, but I didn't bother stopping in to ask them, because they're on the other side of town. Most likely: "drain it down the toilet".

Don't worry, I've got three currently... lol

Maybe... but at least it won't come back on me. lol the local parts guys here were scratching their head over this because apparently no one has ever asked. Kind of interesting, but I guess at a college town no one really doesn't their own car work. I have seen a late 60s Ford pickup and a late 60s early 70s Chebby station wagon hot rod. Aside from that, everything else around here is electronic. kinda unrelated, but I got some looks yesterday because the road draft tube was venting at idle. I'm avoiding a compression check because I don't want to disappoint myself! I want to say my other engine puffed like a steam train, but we know how that one ended.. It's not a lot, nothing in comparison to Nailhead 1 (RIP). When I make it big, I'll sleeve that block and make it right again.

I would look into possibly creating a mold from what you have, and then vacuum forming ABS plastic. Much more durable than 3D print material, but also costs more.

"Not a Chevy" yeah, you can say that again

You can save that filter by replacing the two way pipe fitting. As far as the carb goes, most likely thread repair kit. If you're unfamiliar, you drill/ tap one size larger, then screw in the thread repair kit. I don't know if they make them for pipe thread, though, or how well it'll play nice with fuel...

Yes sir, we may be out in the middle of nowhere, but we are with moral compass. After talking to local government on the phone, they said there's no EPA regulation and that the scrubbers in the sewage plant are more than capable of filtering the coolant. I was instructed to dump it down the toilet.... but I took it to the landfill instead, where they recycled it.

Today was a great day - I finally got a road draft tube! It was in pretty rough shape, so I straightened it as best as I possibly could with what I have here. It'll serve it's purpose until I go home for the holidays and find my original one. Being out in the country, the AM radio stations are pretty limited to sports and Christian news - neither of which really interest me... I am blessed that there is at least one radio station out here that plays Classic Rock. On another note, the last friday of August there was this drive-in at the local Wal-Mart. Only two guys there, I guess they try their hardest to get people to show up. Anyways, the old boy there said if I needed any help, to give him a ring. Since it's dropping to 38 tonight, I felt it was probably a good idea to get the water out of the engine. All petcocks open and 45 minutes later, we poured 4.5 gallons of coolant back into the engine. I replaced the thermostat with a 180 (I have no idea what was originally in there). The gasket I used was pretty cool, too. I don't know who made it, but it had an adhesive on side I used to attach it to the outlet neck. No sealer on the gasket and leak free! Blew me away, usually there's a small leak for me when I use RTV. Anyways, car's running great now and we're back to stock (with the 58 glass bowl, of course). Car's running great, now I just need to cruise past the sorority houses on a Saturday night... 21667768_129570657677824_1111261172239171584_n.mp4

Why didn't the shop do that? You paid them to repair it.

The first thing I would do is pull the engine and respray it. That puke green belongs on a Lincoln.

I was going to write something about the old lady but I'm refraining myself. What? I'm talking about the car, of course.

Right, this one has both...

Never seen a 322 with a filler neck and caps on the valve covers... $500 is kinda steep, especially for a stuck piston. Even though it's complete, I would say it's probably only worth $200-300 (that's what I paid for my cores).

For my own testing purposes, I've gotten some hose that slips over the fittings when disconnected from the carb base, and attached with a barbed fitting at the intake. I can see why this method would be much more tedious to do, but you get immediate feedback results.

My favorite is hook up a vacuum line to the T at the intake manifold, and then, with the car running and timing light in hand, connect the vacuum line to the vacuum advance. The rest is self explanatory. I'm personally not a fan of sucking or blowing.

Looks like my girlfriend's parking. ?

$1600 is way too much for a car in that condition.

Why not just use a regular hardware store nut at that point? I thought the whole purpose of the specialty nuts was to seat on the face of the valve and spark plug covers.

The commutator (copper bit on the end the brushes ride again) could use some polish as that's what makes the electrical connection. You don't need to worry about the large windings because that creates the magnetic field that spins the armature. Don't use sand paper, use something like a scotchbrite pad. As far as paint goes, the back plate is aluminum, the housing/solenoid is a semi-gloss black and the nose cone is raw cast iron, with the linkage being a cad plated color.

Formula SAE is a yearly competition between universities to build a race car out of a 700cc or less engine, to compete in different trials. It's sponsored by the Society of American Engineers. Seems to be going pretty well, but our pad of $5000 that was supposed to be here this year I guess was squandered by the financial advisor last year and we were only left with $1000 or so. We're in some bad trouble, considering they blew the engine last year and they'd rather get a new one than rebuild the old one. Not really sure where we're going, because drive and development days are quickly diminishing as we get further into fall and competition is usually around March, just a month or two after the snow melts.

Just something nice about a Buick with black walls and po-caps.

Probably claims "oem original specs", but there should be no reason why a Moog part wouldn't work. I would cross reference in the shop manual what the body height should be for stock springs. Take your measurement under compression, and then jack the car up and see what the unloaded height is. Then compare what Moog says for loaded height.

Is a vintage Buick, coil springs is just the first of price gouging you'll probably run in to. Your best bet is to find a source that will tell you the loaded height of the spring and then go through a moog catalogue of you're trying to save big bucks.

Dad always told me to use the copper coat or Indian shellac head gasket sealer. Not using a sealer might be your issue. I don't see how not installing the temp sensor would be an issue, unless it was capable of running the fluid into the engine from the outside.