Reaper1

Interested to see how this goes. I have watched a few videos and the one thing that they ALL say...make sure you have plenty of room to work.

Wow...someone got a deal. That honestly is too low for the condition that car was in. Sad you couldn't hold out for more.

The Prusa printer is a d@mn good unit! It's what my old place of employment used to make TONS of things (mostly tools and fixtures) used in a production environment. They had 7 of the things running. Keep in mind that they also had SUPER expensive industrial units, too. We even had the FIRST Thermwood LSAM (Large Scale Additive Manufacturing) machine (the bed size is something like 10 FEET x 10 FEET and the printer head was spitting out a plastic bead about 1" in diameter!). But those little Prusa printers were reliable, cheap to run, and easy to use. I bet you can't guess what I intend to get? LOL

I plan to get a 3D printer by the end of the year. You can do a LOT with those. It takes some mucking around to figure out the best way to orient things and what will and won't work on the smaller machines due to cooling characteristics, but the things I've seen made and how well they hold up is pretty darn impressive, and the materials available nowadays as opposed to even 4 years ago is incredible. Absolutely nothing wrong with a redesign, as who is to say they actually got it right to begin with!? Obviously the fail as a stock part, so...yeah.

I forgot, what material are you using and what process? GFRP would probably be the best bet if you can use it.

Car and Driver strikes again. That rag needs to die. Sorry, but they have have some REALLY crap editorials and have actually conspired to "kill" cars in the past (see Mosler Consulier). Let's hope Stellantis uses their pages to wipe in the bathroom.

Willing to drive to meet? I'm in St. Louis.

Where is the case located. Very interested.

Yes, this could work as well. I do have a question that I don't know the answer to...do the TC and the Chrysler tone rings have the same number of teeth?

If you get rebuilt axles from a parts store, check the ABS ring. Most likely it will be incorrect for a TC. Even though it will probably bolt right in, the wrong ABS ring WILL destroy the sensor as the TC ABS rings are slightly smaller in diameter than the regular Chrysler parts. They can be swapped, however.

Wow, those Sebring wheels don't look bad! What are their specs? Obviously 16", but width and offset? I liked how the RPF1's fit my TC (16x7 +35)...too bad I broke 2 when I wrecked my Daytona a while ago. Hitting a curb at 45+mph will kinda do that.

The knob has a 1-way "clip spring" in it. You need to use a small pick or the like to go behind it and into the little hole to depress that spring to allow you to be able to pull the knob off the shaft (that sounds so wrong LOL). Or, you could opt for the "brute force" method as it WILL come off...but you stand a chance of breaking something else, and that knob is TC specific IIRC.

I want to say that might be a spacer used for the dash installation. You will find that type of thing all over these cars, and none are *exactly* the same...part of the "fun" of a hand-built car. Usually these end up cracked and in a million pieces on your carpet.

Wawa was originally a Northeast thing from what I remember...Maryland, Pennsylvania area. I was shocked to see them down south when they first popped up.

You might just be able to "ask Google". I haven't ever tried that, but it could be worth a shot. There HAS to be a major depot that services your area. Maps might even help.

Yup. This is hopefully home for the foreseeable future! I'll do my best to make it!

Find out where the fuel trucks go to fill up. That will give you the answer you are looking for.

I'll get with you here shortly. I am in need of a couple of things, actually. Now that Doyle made the 2200 mile trek to Missouri, he deserves some TLC!

I also can duplicate the lenses out of plastic. Been giving it serious thought the last couple of years. I'd also put a protective film on them for UV and such, but that adds to the cost. I've also thought about doing a projector conversion, but I am not sure I'd like the look of projectors on a TC.

Well, I just made the LONG 2200 mile or so trip from Seattle to St. Louis because I moved. The convoy of vehicles were: 26' Budget box truck towing my '89 Royal Cabernet TC, my '99 Ram 2500 towing my '88 Shelby Z, me driving my '90 Daytona, and my friend driving the '89 16V TC. We had *1* major failure, and I hate that it was on the 16V car. The timing belt tensioner munched the bearing. Good thing these engines aren't interference, and I happened to have a spare on the other TC. We got it swapped and back on the road in less than an hour on the side of the highway! The thing is, now I need either another 16V tensioner, OR I need to try and source the bearing for the one that disintegrated. I was able to save the outer and inner parts of the tensioner pulley, so I am hoping to maybe find a bearing. For those that don't know, the 16V tensioner is different than the 8V one due to spacing. I have heard adaptions have been made with varying degrees of success. For all of the things I have learned and know, this is one that I haven't got much experience with yet, so looking for some advice or help.

V6 cars don't need premium. They don't gain ANY power by running it. The turbo cars *can* gain performance *IF* you are using it hard. Yes, you can get better fuel economy with "regular". Keep in mind that higher octane burns slower, so technically it is less "energetic". As for what fuels to run for keeping the best running...I know that Chevron Techron has (or had) a BG additive pack in it and it does work very well. Keep in mind, the gasoline you get at ANY pump (except Shell, they have their own tanks) ALL comes from the exact same tanks! The ONLY difference is the little bottle of "secret sauce" each company provides.

Make sure the coil wire is actually fully seated. Sometimes the boots don't allow it to snap all the way down. Also check that the rotor button is in the cap. While it is new, it could be a bad part out of the box (seen it). Other than that, check the codes as described above. It very well could be that the HEP "died" by being messed with. The wires tend to break from fatigue inside of the insulation.

Where are the fender badges? If it's a 16V car (factory 5-speed should be), it should have badges.

Sounds like the tach is off, honestly. If it truly is winding up that hard, are you SURE it is getting into 3rd gear? 3000rpm should be right around 70mph.

Yeah, so when I drove my 8V on that trip a few years ago I found that anything over 72mph and the engine was always in boost and sucking down gas. I think I got 17mpg on one leg because I tried to go the speed limit (80mph)!