Reaper1

As long as they aren't Sensa-Craps. I HATE those things. Good in theory...CRAP in the real world. I find it hard to believe there are no other strut options, quite honestly. Only thing I can think is that the spring perch die finally wore out for the other suppliers, too. This is why you can't get Sachs, Bilstein, or Koni's any longer...the die that made the spring perches wore out.

Got the driver's side door back together, top of the dash all back together, and the head unit is mounted. I did order a powered sub...got an Infinity Mini Bass Link coming. I had to clean the connections for the tach driver board as it was spotty and even though I'd jostled it a bit while I had the whole thing out, I guess it wasn't enough. There was quite a bit of corrosion on the contacts, but now it works! Only other thing that is bugging me is that the radio gets really poor reception. It almost acts like the coax wire itself is messed up internally. I haven't gone back to mess with the antenna itself yet (yes, it does go up), but with as long as the coax is, I would think it really isn't even needed. The reception changes as I mess with the cable or even change my own position in relation to it...kinda like trying to get better TV reception out of old rabbit ears. It's not like I live in a place where there's a lot of obstruction to the radio signal, so I doubt that is the problem. I dunno what is going on, but it's really annoying me.

Hmm...I've never used the Excel G's. Always GR2's. These cars are sprung softly and if the jounce valving isn't tightened up to account for that, I could see them letting the car bottom. You do have bump stops on it, right?

Which struts are they? I agree with Hemi, this is a problem with the struts, not the springs. What is happening is the jounce damping isn't strong enough. I need to do the front struts on Doyle because of this exact issue.

The pictures above show modified lines. That system has new hose that is rated for R134. Using R134 in our old R12 systems almost always results in a leaky system. A lot of it has to do with the hoses just being old, but also what 2Shelbys said as well. There are also other alternatives to using R134. Some are controversial, but they DO work (like air duster propellant or even propane)..the trick is getting the pressures right. I doubt anyone here would actually use propane, but just to ease people's minds, there isn't a lot of it in the system, and if it does happen to ignite, it goes "POOF", not "BOOM". I was weary about it too, but then I saw somebody test it, just to see what would happen...put my fears to rest.

You don't need a code reader for this car. The codes are "blinked" out on the check engine light after turning the key on/off/on/off/on (do NOT start). Before you drive it too much, REPLACE THE FUEL HOSES!! Pressure side is 5/16, return is 1/4. Be sure it is fuel injection hose. If you can get the codes to come up, tell us what they are. The blinks come in series of 2 numbers. "55" is the end of the codes.

Ouch! Sorry you had that bad experience. Out of curiosity, what did he send the first time that was wrong? As for removing the old bushings, personally I have been able to press them out with just a big frigging C-clamp. Sometimes it works, other times it doesn't. I had a buddy that had 50/50 success. Burning them out is stinky, messy, and not fun. Still shouldn't have been more than 1 hour labor for that part.

I put this in Doyle's thread, but I figured it was something that was important enough to share on its own. I was installing a new aftermarket head unit in my TC (Pioneer DEH-X8800BHS) and could not get it to turn a source on. It would kick the whole unit off, put it in a "safe mode" and I had to reset it to get it to come back on. Turns out that you can NOT use the Black/Dark Green wire as the head unit ground wire. I don't have a reason as of yet because according to the diagrams it *should* work, but in this case, it simply would not. Once I used the braided ground strap, the problem went away. So, if you are installing an aftermarket head unit, either run a dedicated ground, or use the braided ground strap. Hope this helps somebody at some point.

I was sick all last week with a sinus infection or some crap (NOT Covid), so I'm FINALLY getting back to working on stuff. So as an update, I finished the passenger's side door and got it all buttoned back up. I sourced some thin butyl tape that is used for RV gaskets or something and that works fantastic for putting the vapor barrier back on the door! No more duct tape! I gotta get more of this stuff! I moved on to the driver's door to find more of the old alarm system tucked up in it and some hacked wiring. I ripped that crap out and fixed the wires, replaced the missed lock rod clip on the lock solenoid, and found that the door was missing the entire vapor barrier. I luckily had the one out of the other TC hanging on the wall, and I intend to do some different stuff with that car anyways, so I used that on this one. Installed the door speaker and decided it was time to toss the head unit in and see if this was all worth it. Well, I learned a lesson I will also post another thread about. I don't exactly know WHY this is, yet, but you can NOT use the black/dark green wire for the head unit ground. For whatever reason whenever I tried to get a source to play it would turn the unit off and put it in some sort of "safe mode" where I had to reset the whole blasted thing. Thanks to a buddy of mine for making me come to my senses, but once I used the braided ground strap...no more issues! The good news is that it works and it sounds pretty darn good. As I expected, it has fairly terrible mid and bass response, at least compared to my truck, so yeah, it will be getting some foam speaker buckets to try and help that out. But it's clear and seems like it has good staging. I was trying to NOT put a sub in it, but after having almost every one of my daily drivers have a sub...I think it's going to get *something*. It's just hard for me to listen to music that doesn't have a good, full range. Maybe by the end of the weekend I'll have it all back together.

Continued the speaker install tonight. I forgot the dash speakers had their own bass limiting capacitors, so I had to take them back out and get that sorted out. No biggie. I used trim adhesive to reapply the sound director foam to the two storage compartment speakers. I think eventually I will get the foam to put behind them, too because right now they are basically free air, and that won't make for good mid response at all. It will still be better than nothing, though. I also got the adapter harness all soldered up for the head unit, so that will be ready to install very shortly, too. It's getting closer!!!

J&J Auto Wrecking on eBay. They price wasn't bad, and I did get what I paid for. I have no complaints there. I have looked at the pictures again they took (they did a good job where you can see the reflections and all) so, I truly think something happened in transit. Again, it is still a better part than what is on the car, so, going to roll with it for now. They have a white hood as well it looks like.

So, I have collected a BUNCH of parts and now it's time to do the work! I started replacing the speakers today. Got 3 of those in. Gotta do the head unit wiring. I'll get the other dash speaker in tomorrow and then I can put the entire dash back together! I'm excited to do that! I also got some butyl tape, so I can reinstall the vapor barriers on the doors properly. Got the lock rod retainers to fix the driver's side power lock. I sourced the correct spark plugs, so now I have all the stuff to revamp the secondary ignition. While I have that stuff out I am going to repaint the valve cover and intake, so that should look nice again. The hood came in today, and...well...I think something either got put on it during shipping, or fell on it, but it's not as straight as it is in the pictures. I will say I was VERY impressed with the way the part was packed. It came on a pallet with nice sides on it, and it was totally wrapped in bubble wrap. The only thing they could have done more was put a top on it. It *IS* better than what is on the car, which is bent, so I will sill install it. Since the hood isn't down during shows anyways, I'm not going to sweat it too much, but it does push me to go with my original plan. Guess I need to really scope out local suppliers. The last BIG thing to do is get the A/C working. It technically DID work, but the lines don't hold 134a...you can see the oil seep through little pinholes! I've been looking up A/C hoses, fittings, and tools...we'll see. I am SO excited to get back to driving it! Oh, I got the hard top stand, too. It's pretty nice. Gotta say, for less than $120 shipped AND it comes with a cover...it's a nice product.

Happy "F King George III" day!

I just got mine not too long ago off of eBay for I think $25.

I think it's 1/8" loom I used. NOT the plastic convoluted stuff! This stuff is like the "Chinese Finger Trap". I like those holders. I need to get my 3D printer...then I can actually fix it!

OK...YOLO'd...got a nice Pioneer head unit and all Infinity Reference speakers coming. I want to get this thing back on the road while the weather is nice dang it!

The rear caliper pistons retract with the use of a hex screw in the back of the caliper. There's a little plug you take out, then you can retract the piston as long as the mechanism isn't stuck.

I would NOT try to build that hose myself. I'm not even sure I would trust a brake hose that would "fit" simply because of where it is in the system. What Hemi suggested is probably the best bet, honestly.

Ah, you updated the post! I didn't see the picture before. So the picture is the old "stub-strut" style. If your control arm are stamped like the ones in that picture, but have 2 pivots instead, then that is the ones that need the larger rear bushing and the smaller front bushing. The set for 1990 cars will work (PB1020).

While trying to decide what to do about the stereo, I figured I would knock out a little bit of other work. Doyle needs a basic tune-up and I'd already gotten some of the things needed. One of them is plug wires. While technically not "bad", the ones on it are original, and one has been snacked on by some rodent or another (seems common as I've seen another person that had the same exact issue), so I got some replacements from RDI. Unfortunately red was not available. I decided to try and overcome that because I REALLY like the red wires on that engine...it just looks SWEET. So, I got some red expandable wire loom and installed that over the cables. I *could* have gotten away with only doing the amount that you can see, and that probably would have given me enough to do all 4, but I wanted to do the whole length, so I found out the hard way that 10 feet will only do 3 wires! Oops...oh well...ordered another pack. I even went as far as to take the boot off the distributor end so I could slide the sheathing on the cable AND shrink wrap it on both ends! It looks REALLY good! Little tip for getting those boots off, use some silicone spray. Man that makes it SO easy! I've fought with those things in the past...wish I woulda known that trick before! So...that's where I'm at so far...

Well, the saga continues with the stereo in Doyle. My original plan was to get a newer factory tape/cd player unit and use that because it would be of the correct era and do all the things needed, BUT, my plans have been foiled. While waiting on the new antenna mast, I decided to check to see if the head units I was attempting to use were even any good. I had my '90 Daytona just sitting there and it has no stereo in it currently, so I figured I could use that. 3 out of 3 head units produced NO sound! Well, the newest one tried, but obviously has an issue and doesn't work correctly. I tried a CD due to the tuner not being hooked up to an antenna (my antenna wire in the 90 is lost behind the dash someplace! LOL). 2 of the head units would read the CD, but no sound, and the 3rd wouldn't even read the CD. I'm kinda bummed because I REALLY wanted a factory head unit in there, but, it's not to be, I suppose. Newer aftermarket stuff *is* better, but it's the look I was really wanting. Oh well. Guess Doyle is going to get a new Pioneer. I won't be adding amps and all to this car.

I have 2 TC's and the other is BOUND to break at some point! $75 of the OEM one I found listed. The PN you gave came up at around $40 *if* you can find it. Hate to say it, but manufacturers are FORCING obsolescence on us, deliberately not continuing to make parts to FORCE consumerism.

A few of reasons. First, I didn't have that part number you just posted (which doesn't match what is on Marty's site, he lists 4469342B) and I DID look. Second was cost. While I do agree the OEM part is the BEST option, and at this point I would break even on it if I'd just gotten it first, it isn't exactly "cheap". Third, there aren't that many OEM ones left...EVENTUALLY supply *will* run out and folks are going to NEED to know what options they have (including me), so I am chalking it up to a "learning experience" and hoping it helps others as I go.

I want to say I tried that, but it didn't work. I figured it was because of the way the relay works, but whichever. I think it's kinda lazy that they don't include the wiring options for the Chrysler setups because there are still TONS of them out there. If it isn't raining tomorrow I might give your wiring a go again, just to verify. I know the unit works because I DID get it to deploy and retract using the power directly at the battery.

It is a Metra CK-PW22 (which doesn't work in the Metra search on their website). I got it at Auto Zone. If you look up the application on Metra's website, they list a 44-PW22, so probably the exact same part. I looked at the installation instructions and they are EXACTLY the same as the one I got, so, it won't work with a factory set-up either as far as wiring. Out of curiosity I tried to look up the previously listed PN's from an older thread 44-PWRCR180 and Metra does not list it, and neither does the place the person found it. Must be obsolete. I just ordered an old-stock 44-PWRCR172 that lists the era of Chryslers ours is from as its applications, so we'll see. That part number doesn't work in Metra's search, either.