Reaper1

@marty14I suppose I owe you an apology. It looks like the PN that is on my axles is the one you posted. It looks like maybe they marked them wrong in the book as TII, because they are DEFINITELY 16V. For what it's worth I did just try to cross reference the PN listed in your post at all the major auto parts stores online and got 0 returns. Even a Google search got me nothing. Yay...ugghhh...

OK, sorry I've been MIA. Life was going on. Anyways, I FINALLY found my spare axles, but unfortunately they have the same issue...outer boots are trash. BUT, this did allow me to get measurements and markings. Firstly, they are DEFINITELY GKN. The large part is 3.5" (88mm), the small part is 1.12" (28mm) roughly 3.7" long (94mm) 3 bellows. The only markings on it are: GKN, England and 86 87 88. The clamps also had some markings. Small one: GKN A08754-010 34 Large one: 102 For reference, the smaller boot is also GKN. Large part is 3.33" (85mm) Small part is 1.12" (28mm) roughly 3.4" long (85mm) 3 bellows No markings other than the GKN. The axle itself is has PN 4425009 (also marked England) Maybe that helps?

Marty14, my car is a 16V car. They use different axles, including the outer CV it appears. I had already bought the larger of the CV boots for the TII and it doesn't appear to be large enough.

Hemi Dude, I will have to get back under the car and take some pictures. I don't think mine looks like that what you PMd me.

It's been a while since I posted. Life and other reasons. Anyways, I was doing some work to my '89 16V car and noticed the outer CV boot on the one side has just started to fail. I have asked Rick, AJ and Jackson if they know of a replacement PN, but they do not. I also did a search before posting this question and nothing comes up for the 16V cars (they use unique axles). I don't know if Hemi or anyone else might know. I can say with 99% certainty that the TII boots will not work. They are too small in diameter. I have a spare set of axles someplace, but I can't seem to find them right now. Thanks for any help.

I guess with shipping that's not bad. Anymore shipping SUCKS!!

You are in northern Georgia aren't you?

I think I have a thread either separate or it is the Rosa thread, but not 100%. I only have a few pictures of me "bench" testing it on the ground so far. I think maybe I took pictures of the wiring. I did everything in parallel and it is all done as close to factory as possible. I scored an entire donor car harness and all, so I surgically spliced in what is needed to run the electronic controls. The hardest part was that my actual electro-vacuum module was dead, but I was lucky to score a NOS one. I also have the electronic dash spliced in, even though they didn't want to do electronic gages in this car. I think it is befitting of the era. I need to finish up the modifications to the front bezel to accommodate the selection buttons, but other than that it's ready to be installed. So, I can swap the car back to a regular cluster and regular HVAC if the need/want ever arises.

You almost have to strip the interior. Seats come out. Best if center console comes out. Door sill trim. Stainless door threshold trim. Interior side trim (at least loose to get to the one mounting screw), then there's screws in the top well and inside the compartment itself. Once you get them all loose...it comes out. There will probably be spacers on the mounts that go to the top well, just be aware. Oh, don't forget the wires for the light and switch as well as the pull cables for the tonneau latches on both sides.

How much did it run you?

OK...I FINALLY got a working combination with the LEDs! It took a bit of fiddling, trying different combinations of flashers, but I got a combination that works! So, at least for my '89, leave the stock silver one in place on the fuse block and use the one that shelbyone suggested above in place of the yellow flasher that is tucked up under the dash. I tied the ground in with the common ground down by the driver's left foot. It works as advertised! I do like the way the LED bulbs light up the housing. It has a much more even "warmth" to it and of course it is instant. That makes the last things to fix on the car are the A/C lines and the transmission (3/4 synchro is SHOT, but it can still drive fine...spare will be going in). This passed Friday I cruised home, top down, Pandora playing and the map application running through Blue Tooth...it was beautiful! I got an invitation to a local car club that has 2 TC's in it. One is a red '91 owned by Bill Sheffer, whom I have tried to reach out to, and I am unsure of the other. I can't make their monthly meet up in October due to work unfortunately. There's a show this coming weekend I am going to try to go to as well. We shall see!

OK, I ordered the one that was suggested above...we'll see. After that, I give up.

Welp, got the flasher unit from SuperBrightLEDs...aaaaannnnnddddd......NOPE! WTF!? How can a solid state flasher give a crap about the load!? Works fine with regular bulbs, but as soon as you take even 1 bulb out...no workie. I am getting frustrated and those bulbs were expensive. Grrrrr...

Oh man!! I LOVE those switch panels! LOL Release the Kraken! LMAO!! Epic!

Oh, so update...I got the electronic flasher in today...NOPE! Still didn't fix the issue. I even jumpered the connectors backwards at the fuse block as the seller indicated some cars are wired backwards. Still...nope. Works great with regular bulbs. I just ordered ANOTHER flasher from SuperbrightLEDS...I kinda trust them as they know LED stuff pretty well (been around for a LONG time), even though they don't list the correct cornering light for the TC. I REALLY don't want to cut into the harness to put resistors in just for stupid LED's.

Yeah, you could simply tap into the factory relay behind the radio with a switch that provides the 12V instead of the radio. If I am not mistaken the stock radio will retract the antenna unless the radio receiver is being used. I don't know of any aftermarket head unit that does that. Yes, you can absolutely hook up more that one thing to the "remote power" wire. Each head unit is different on how much amperage it can handle, but we are talking about a relay, so, milliamps. I finally got mine all working, but I ended up using the stock antenna and the aftermarket mast that is out of production. So, I guess I sacrificed $60-ish on a power antenna that is now basically trash because I've taken it all apart an everything! LOL Oh well...we all learned! As for where to put the switch, that depends on your creativity, willingness to take things apart to customize and things like that. I made a custom switch plate for my '88 Shelby Z that was hidden in the ashtray compartment, for example.

I was just going to say that it almost begs for a big screen there, even though I HATE 100% touch screens. I have pondered for years how to relocate the HVAC controls without going to the electronic ones (which my other TC is getting). The stupid blend door cable is the big issue.

Tonight went fantastically! Doyle drove perfectly, no more shaking at speed. The radio sounds good enough with the top down. I even had 2 people that were genuinely interested in the car. One guy had a very nice yellow 240Z with triple side draft carbs on it. It sounded and looked good! He really liked the TC in turn. Another guy was trying to remember what it was called and knew it wasn't common, but didn't know how uncommon. In all, it was a decent turn-out and the whole night was well worth it! Looks like there's an upcoming MOPAR show around the 25th I might go to.

I looked at a double DIN unit, and almost got one, then realized the stock location is only 1.5 DIN. I didn't want to hack up the center stack, so I decided against it. It does look good, though!

I didn't forget you, but I haven't been able to see if I have a spare.

I reinstalled the right side door belt trim and I FINALLY got the antenna working correctly AND picking up stations! I finally replaced the mast with the old unopened surplus aftermarket one I found (original price was $62!). Once I figured out how to put the little adapter part the factory uses...badda-bing. I also ordered a signal flasher that works with LED's so hopefully I don't have to hack the harness.

Thank you, sir. I appreciate it. As long as the weather holds I will be taking it to a local car meet this Friday night. I've been there before with it, but not with the top down and looking quite this good.

I hate you.... Funny enough I played with the oil cap to make the pentastar as straight as possible...I frigging missed the radiator cap! Uggh..

So I took Doyle out for a little cruise tonight. SO much fun! Things start to get pretty serious in 3rd gear about 4000rpm! I didn't have enough road for that, so had to back off! Beyond that, such a blast to drive! I even got a little brave and did a couple of lower rev launches. One up my driveway (it's pretty long) and it kept spinning until I let off. Definitely has the making of a tire smoke machine, but I will say it was pretty well balanced and both tires were looking for traction (the right a little more than the left), so that was kind of impressive. Above is the fairly well detailed engine bay. I do not have the A/C belt on as of the moment the hoses are leaking, so it does no good to have it hooked up...plus the top is down and the weather is cooling off! The front 2 radiator mount bolts are not rusty, that is a coating or something on them. I tried to take care of any other obvious stuff if it was too nasty. Some "patina" remains. The valve cover has been stripped and re-painted, but the intake is stock. I did not use a dressing on the valve cover like I did on the intake. The pictures make it look more glossy than it is.