Turbo Kane

I have plenty of ginger inside door handle Bezels. Give me a day or two to figure out where I put them and I’ll message you. Thanks

My Ryobi sawzall only made it through 1 Daytona Shelby before it died. The Milwaukee torch blade lives on.

Thanks Hemi!

What’s totally unnecessary is removing the entire intake manifold to remove plug wires, cap and rotor. It’s possible and very simple to do the work in 30 min or less. If you don’t believe me I’ll post a video and teach anyone who might care. You can teach an old dog new tricks you know.

And that’s why I don’t offer any advise

I’ve waited a long time to offer mechanical advise because I’m not a self proclaimed expert. I just know how to get the job done. Here’s what I found works. From underneath loosen the distributor adjustment hold down screw. Then from above get a very long #2 Phillips screw driver. Move the distributor advance or retard to access and loosen the 2 distributor cap screws. From underneath reach up and lift cap off with wires still attached and fish it over towards the battery. Change out what you want (plug wires, cap, rotor) then replace in the same fashion. Super easy to do. Don’t forget to set your ignition timing. Tighten screw from underneath. With the engine running at opp temp unplug the CTS. Then above you’ll need a timing light and I use a long rod with a hammer to lightly tap the distributor adv or retard till set at 12deg. Shut off engine and connect CTS. Also a good idea to reset your AIS at the same time. After making all adjustments disconnect and reconnect battery allows the computer to adjust. If your not sure how to reset you AIS I can walk you though it.

I have more levers available. I’m out of keychains. Message me if you’d like to purchase one or you can email me at resinkane@gmail.com

Same price as previously listed $30 shipped!

I have 10 available for purchase. They no longer have the gas pump marking on them they are plain black levers. Message me if you’d like to purchase one.

Rmtroutman- sorry I don’t have a good condition one. I’ve heard they are extremely hard to come by uncracked

Thank you all for your interest in the levers. I’m away on military orders but when I return I’ll start to produce them again. I’m also planning to experiment with a stronger impact resistant resin that should make them even better. I want them to be affordable for all so I plan to make price adjustment as well. My goal is to have them available Jan 2020. Thanks again for everyone’s support.

Glenn I have a grille for you. I’ll email you my contact info.

Jim, I stopped making the keychains and fuel door levers. I might pick it back up again soon. The console arm rest is shot, the hood pads not too bad but has road salt on it. I can’t image how I could ship it. There delicate and huge. Fold it in half it would be destroyed. It’s located in WI 53146 if you can arrange a way to get it. $60 is all I want for it.

I’ve been thinking about producing them again. There are currently none available. I’ll be sure to let you know if I do! Thanks for your interest!