Reaper1

I am on a massive moving road trip and we are driving the 16V TC (hard top on) and my '90 V6/5spd Daytona. Both cars are VERY loaded down and they are getting almost exactly the same fuel economy...right at 30mpg at about a 60mph pace. This is going up and down the Cascades and Rocky Mountain passes, too. For comparison, my 8V/automatic TC got something like 24mpg on a similar trip averaging 72mph with the top down most of the way. Just thought that comparison would be interesting to some folks.

Yes is the very simple answer. The reason I did not go after that solution is that I personally do not like LED headlights. I don't like the light they shine and I don't like how they blind other drivers. Plus, it is a controversial subject concerning the retrofit of either HID or LED bulbs in housings designed for Halogen type bulbs. I don't want to get into all that and clutter this thread up with those arguments. Currently I am not able to continue with this project as I am in the middle of some major life changes. I will hopefully pick it back up sometime this summer/fall.

Oh, and you were one of the first people I thought of to ask, but I was in a time crunch and I didn't know if you were available.

I have meant to join a few times, but just never have. I need to check back in to see if they have gotten the online membership thing working. Honestly, that was my hold-up...being able to send my payment.

OK, so I learned a lesson today. I was attempting to assemble my new clutch to my flywheel on my 16V engine. In this car I am not using the Getrag, I have swapped to an A568. I knew that the dust tins were different, but I thought that was just because of the transmission...NOPE! The 16V uses a LARGER flywheel than the other Turbo Mopar cars. Not only does the clutch not bolt up, but the entire flywheel is too big for the bellhousing! So, I just wanted to share that little tid-bit with everyone in case you might have a 16V car that you are planning to swap the transmission on.

If you are wanting to add a transmission cooler, I highly suggest a good aftermarket one. Yes, factory ones bolt right in, but you have no idea what gunk and crap is inside a used one just waiting to chew your working transmission up.

I posted this trick in its own thread I think, but, if you take the AC compressor off of the bracket and set it aside, you have PLETNY of room for distributor activities. No need to take the intake off. I had to use this trick to get the fuel rail off of mine to replace the regulator.

I don't mind electric cars. Instant torque, quiet, vibration free operation, very limited amount of upkeep...I'm game! As for self-driving, I can write a pretty long article on my thoughts on that, but TL:DR version: the technology is NOT ready because the infrastructure is NOT ready.

To add to Hemi's story on the test drive, I also heard that not only did one fail before it got off the property, but that 3 had failed before they got out of Detroit! As for the guts, I know there's been updates over time and I know the overdrive snap ring is a common failure. I also know that later units can hold a LOT of power (NOT overdrive!!). There were a couple used in Neon SRT-4 cars using an aftermarket controller (no longer available). Those engines were in the 800hp range. The review was that being able to tune the transmission was a quantum leap over the old A413. Unfortunately there were no "adaptives" incorporated with this controller, so it was a race-only deal, and was really expensive. Yes, using the wrong fluid was the cause of a lot of early failures, but also, the software that runs the thing was also an issue. It was VERY intolerant of even small discrepancies that were not truly detrimental to the operation of the unit. As for the reliability...I had a buddy that worked at a dealership in the early 00's...they had something like 5 reman units ready to go in the parts department at all times! And they didn't sit there long...one of their personal vans went through 3 before they got a good one. My personal experience is mixed. While I think it does have potential and in its final form is a fairly decent unit, it isn't the right "tool" for the driving I like to do. I kinda broke a few...

It's been said that there's a commonly available Jeep roll-over valve that will work for our cars on some other forums, but from what I remember vaguely, the part number doesn't directly cross for some reason.

If I'd stayed at the store to change them, yes! LOL It was raining it's butt off and I didn't feel like standing in the rain to change them (and no, I am not going to ask the parts store person to change my wipers as they probably wouldn't know how and break them!) as I was only 1 mile from the house. So, I just drove home and found all this out the next day! LOL

When replacing the pump, make sure to use fuel hose that is submersible AND E85 resistant. Also, use fuel injection clamps, NOT worm gear clamps!

I heard a story from a guy that was around when the A604 was under development in the late 70's I think is what he told me. He said they had a transmission on a dyno and a whole room of computer equipment running it and at the time was told that eventually all of it would be in a car! I can imagine how hard that had to be to believe at the time. Anyway, the point is it took Chrysler almost 30 YEARS to get clutch to clutch electronically controlled and adaptive technology to actually work as intended (mostly). The challenge is in the way it figures out how to apply the clutches. It's a moving target. I bet a modern AI adaptive would make it almost perfect, but we had to get to that computing technology point. Another interesting note is that, just like the engine controls, Chrysler used a totally different strategy for transmission control (for better or worse). It's why there's basically NO aftermarket tuning support. By far the best shift strategy can be found in the Prowler, but I don't know of anyone that has been able to reflash a TCM with a Prowler code because it takes a VIN to do it, plus that was the 42LE...very similar to the 41TE, but because it has "slap shift", there's other integrated things that aren't on the original 41TE cars and it's not known whether it will actually work.

Yes, an auxiliary or external cooler for the A604 is pretty much MANDATORY in order for it to live. I'm actually surprised these cars didn't get one beyond the regular integrated one. I'm also a firm believer in oil coolers for turbo cars.

While true (I used to work at Auto Zone), if it doesn't fit, it doesn't fit!

I ended up with Bosch Evolution blades, I believe.

I just ran into an interesting issue. I went to go replace my wipers, picked up some Bosch ICON blades....NO WORKIE! They do NOT accept ANY pin-type arm! Funny enough, the parts cross reference says they will work. That's a big 'ole NOPE. I think I remember a few years ago running into the issue where the "better" blades don't work on the older cars and I went looking for a solution. I never did find one, so it seems the only way around this would be to make your own wiper arms with the hook-style retention. I have not tried that yet, but it might be on my "to do" list. I hope this saves someone from a similar issue.

Just a quick question: how many here have done the relayed headlight wiring upgrade? For those that don't know, the factory wiring for Chrysler back in the day did not use relays to turn the headlights on. ALL of the power load goes through the switches, connectors, etc. before getting out to the bulbs. This does 2 things: #1 it creates a fairly significant voltage drop at the light bulb, reducing its output (you can't see at night!), #2 it can cause electrical issues (fires being the worst possibility) and that switch in the dash can get SUPER hot, melt, etc. To remedy these issues, you install relays at the front of the car that make it so all the switches do are just turn the lights on. I've done this modification to a few cars and it works well. I have just got a couple of pre-made kits online to do it to the red TC. I plan to take pictures and make a write-up...maybe a video. Any interest?

Barbie Girl popped in my head as soon as I looked at it! LOL

Ouch. That sucks. Another one bites the dust. Unfortunately it shows how little damage it takes to total the car. It *could* be fixed, but it looks like it needs to go on a frame machine (right rear quarter is buckled). No engine pictures...

Where is the car located?

Well, it's been a minute since I've updated. I had a new experience with the TC last night...snow. Ughh...I hate snow...and this was thick, slushy stuff that you couldn't see through and stuck to everything. It's all gone today, though! LOL I've been having to drive it because my truck's transmission finally died. I am hoping to get it back together by this weekend.

Maybe a bad solder connection on the PCB?

The needle is dragging on the face...that's my guess.

Hemi, do you recognize this? https://l.facebook.com/l.php?u=https%3A%2F%2Flink-mapp.iaai.com%2FmDE8ZxWUHwbHpos1A%3Ffbclid%3DIwAR3sKSEkydHNAclH8yuGS6f-B_33w_jdzkT6HkdybIR6GyTKTHpmA4pGmiI&h=AT3yRm6qNtjq8YdpIOfZksBBOSoXalmPkMhfWk_7O6Jy26MtPcGjkTpySaa_5vJxXRR1W5pfyRv5xOWgoqcAZ0kjBOHw83nP3RjWgDXQYDJsTCB0-KHLoFBaOvj-B3aJlenTv7VfyoURBGmPqpARNIdQ8sr_3JubB9by1xRwv9Nin5AeYD_JSo0uomTf_DqPIkXNAP6YcficXVR5-D8_7LxJvx9iaplZFO7h0csmV1iJbiL57STzL_ZG0CWIReVUwLCTvpMd8meMAMLXhFRP2h7pH1fz9mO2rRDVon1MnAeOvMOWBULEIF5ci84zowbsLYnhd-KLIHv5vFy09pNUhDk7rgD0Fiqq8QqLHRxmVzo_1cIV-T4TlqDNIjCDeeCcy9THIKpEFFR8UIYazRq_9TB7F--fezwwV6hdebCux853ZE9i_V72VnGwCGt9xSa1jvWdcwmbq5Xw-M64Ld1eUc3GzN6zW1lP_VhhvmzV2yzqFOa7xSfob-t1xZrSzm3WVqIGZpLDUceJMqBKUnaLnVMm4sXO18jcEkshurCG_UjNy0zId1uCxw5_IjHvaEknegjO7ZgZHFNqRB4ML2rqtjbx5Dwt4tXnUVK7_8n69GGbAoZ4Re3JjR5FstdgP2WAOfRCIQuTkE6QfM3t1BU_9OOkAvZI0Eg_5jC-5mYuy_0BIaCBXfC48irvGQ2biHc8ogQdiXKg8XMeyC1-6kUhZ-1kEfKmYg