Deanoko

Yes, I now have all the components and I've been told since I have the guidematic factory installed, I also have the entire wiring harness just hanging there waiting to be hooked up. Lucky me...

borrowing this thread: I received my Cruise 64 speedo in the mail today, so need to remove, or at least look at, my non-cruise speedo head to see if the differences are swappable into mine or my not crispy bits into the cruise one. Thoughts? If the dash top comes off it looks like 3 screws hold the head unit in place. I also have guidematic so that will be an additional entanglement for the dash cap.

I was able to source a '64 cruise speedo out of Canada for $40, so will be able to place them side by side and make a detailed comparison. I'd like to think that GM was thinking economy of parts here, and that translates into the vast majority of the speedo mechanism being interchangeable. "News at 11"

Do you have a shot of the KW number sequence?

As I am embarking on adding Cruise to a non cruise car, I'd like to know if the associated speedometers are basically the same with the cruise module bolted to the back, or are they more bespoke? Photos would be helpful. Thanks! My 64 came with 19 options. I'm working on getting it to 22...

If it's also an AC car, that might work. Or at least get a template of what needs to be opened up to accept the cruise switch. I cant recall if that whole thing is plastic or metal.

I might be interested in the speedo. PM me with specifics? I bought a somewhat “crispy” cruise speedo unit out of Canada for $40, which is headed my way now. I’m wondering if the cruise specific portion of it is a bolt on to the back of a regular speedo, or is it an entirely different animal. I’m assuming that the speed minder pointer gets repurposed to become the cruise set speed control. Also would be interested in reading how to modify my brake pedal arm to fit the cancel switch. Evidently needs to have a hole drilled in a specific spot. Thanks, Deano

Absolutely! Thanks for that info Bill!

I am lucky in that I live 15 miles from SMS Auto upholstery in Oregon who has literally EVERY fabric imaginable.

I got mine to work perfectly. I repositioned the lower cable stay to a more rearward spot on the switch bracket and anchored it with a small nut and bolt. It's not going anywhere. It operates throughout the tilt range EXCEPT for the most downward position. Now on to getting the horns to work. 2 spoke sport faux wood option wheel. Horns work jumpering them directly from the battery and also jumpering across the relay from the + relay common post to the forward wire exiting the relay.

The title says it.

I just happily discovered that my heavily optioned 64 has cornering lights! Yay! There is also a I - I orientation 3 wire additional wire harness which plugs into the same 6 spade connection for the turnsignal switch. The owners manual or service manual really say nothing about them other than they either are installed or not. I look forward figuring out then they are energized. My guess is, headlights AND turn signal on, then the cornering light for that direction will be on. When the turn signal cancels so will the cornering light.

It is NLA and doesn't even show in part number books. That same number later became a piece of a Malibu sunroof, which wasn't helpful. I see on Chevy forums that others are looking too, so if I could do a cad drawing or something I could take to a 3d printer, maybe I could make one by dipping that as a smaller solid (buck) piece into that rubber tool handle dip and peel it off. Thinking "out loud" here...

Yes! In the assembly manual there is a drawing which shows what it basically looks like snd provides a part number: 3751677 It even specifies the amount of lubricant to apply to the heater core shroud end and the type and quantity of cement to use on the other end. I just need to find a way to fabricate one.

We've had a nice 58 2Dr Delray from new. It sports the deluxe heater. At one point there was a thin rubber molded hose that connected the metal heater core shroud, under the dash, to a metal loop suspended over the heater control valve on the inner firewall. I believe it was meant to try to modulate heat, but was probably not much good for that task. I am interested in re-creating this bit, but only have a vague idea of the fairly complex shape it had. I don't think it is being made, but would love to see photos of one "in situ". The heater core end was a bell shape with a lip internal to the metal hole keeping it in place, then necking down to a tube with a couple bends to snake it down to the control valve. It was quite thin flexible rubber and probably suffered a quick death in most cases. Any help appreciated.

Thanks! I will attempt the lower cable clamp reposition. Some additional wonkyness I did not mention, is that the 5/16 screw holding the bottom cable clamp in place just spins in the bracket, so will have to put a blade screwdriver in there to put some assist pressure while loosening. Sigh. At least I have easy access since I have the driver's seat out, having just refurb'd the 4 way transmission! Old grease had glued everything together inside but super easy to restore perfect function! Even a blind squirrel finds a nut occasionally!

I know this is a nearly year old thread, but I'm currently dealing with this on my 64 with tilt wheel. Everything is in excellent condition, no broken cable or sleeve. Switch works fine too. The issue is in the adjustment. With the switch and bracket lose from the column, the cable with loop is positioned about 1/8" too far toward the firewall to allow for centering and good reliable operation of both directional signals. When I try to slide the whole assembly along the slotted 5/16" bolts, I immediately run into the brake pedal arm, like it never did fit correctly. Before I pull that area apart, is there any cable adjustment up at the steering wheel end, or am I missing something obvious? The cable jacket is tightly fixed to its mounting plate, which in turn, is not adjustable, otherwise I could just adjust that. I am lucky in that there is ZERO corrosion on this car and under the dash looks just like it did coming off the assembly line.

Hi all, When I purchased this one owner, special order car last year I soon discovered that it had an LT code 65 401 under the hood. I've sourced a nice builder KW 425 to replace it. Now I discover that the current Rochester 4gc is there because they swapped in the switch pitch 65 trans as well. Why I don't know. I'd prefer to just swap the carb over to the 425 and leave the tranny the way it is. I know it doesn't have the D21 center console but it seems to work just fine and it's not like I'm going to be driving around in low 2. This is not a show car but it is in VERY nice shape and highly optioned. Soliciting opinions. Also, when the 425 goes in, the 65 401 (Strong running, no issues) will be looking for a new home.

Hmm. I'll have to explore that. My brain tells me the seat is set too low to do any of that.

Ancient topic. We'll see who is paying attention. Ha! I have a very nice 64 with 4 way power seat that is inoperative. The motor runs but no movement, so I cannot get the seat up or back or anywhere to get at the attachment bolts so I can clean and regrease the transmission or diagnose the run- no move issue. Anyone found themselves in this quandry? And hey! How about that 65 GS going for $121,007 on BaT today?!? Awesome!!

My 64 came with this spare tire cover. It looks to be original, but needs to be replaced. Question:. Was it original or an option or ??? Does anyone offer a repop? Last Q:. My car has the limited slip diff as tagged in the fill(?) plug. I've got a 58 Chev with Positraction that has a specific additional jacking warning paper "decal" on the deck lid. I have not seen a Buick version. Did the affix a second decal for cars so equipped? If so, a photo or source would be appreciated.

Ok, so not nylock. I will source all metal ones, athough even with the nylon end locking ring you'd have to tear out A LOT of metal threads for the whole shebang to come loose! There are several risk assessments here: how often will I have rear seat occupants? Virtually never. With the car never having 3 point seatbelts, will those occupants suffer more than if the car featured them? Probably. Does the car have designed crush zones or airbags? No. And yet, I think putting rear seatbelts in, anchoring them with purpose built doubler plates, and using seatbelt specific bolts and nuts, it's going to be just fine.

I'm lucky to have a nice 4 post lift in my garage and a helper to work the underside, with nylock nuts or similar. Thanks.

No, thanks. I'm not going to tack weld anything. Overkill. It's not going anywhere anyway.

I bought 2 sets of 4 for 2 different projects from Speedway.