Deanoko

Well, when provided with the tale, he was adamant that they would never do such a thing. I think the spare tire pressure check was a tie breaker. One had 9psi and the other was to factory spec. Ha!

No, a wive's tale. I asked my friend who has judged NCRS for 42 years and he said they would never do that. They judge 4511 points for a perfect car, which equates (is converted to) a 100 point score. There is a maximum of 20 points iff for dirt, which, if that's all they found wrong, would be a 99 point car. He did say he has measured tire pressure in the spare, but only because the car is judged as being road worthy. He only judges 63-67. He said that in the later cars they plug in an OBD2 and read codes, which he thought was a bit much.

I will probably source some washer base hex head style (?) bolts for the timing gear / water pump since they can be seen, but the rest I will live with. PS, the Corvette judging guys mostly know it's BS, but they've dug themselves into a hole. There are date coded things and measurements of overspray on parts you just shake your head at. I've learned a lot of it, but still find it fascinating the level of detail to be strived for. C2s (63-67) only for me.

I have been a concours 'd elegance judge for about 10 years. The only guys that get that anal about it are the NCRS guys who have a 215 page book depicting every last detail of their beloved Corvettes. For our other teams, we are looking for obvious hardware store off the shelf items, as negatives but not specific bolt letter codes. The fact that these will be painted with the engine will be helpful.

Noted. Thanks.

Sure. Follow this thread and I will post my findings here.

Yes, those were set up correctly before I got the long block back. Thanks.

Last night I did another on line search and this came up. Ordered it. Looks to be everything I was after.

Well, they had to name their company something. Most likely they started out doing body bolt kits and expanded to engines. I'm not going to hold it against them. I just wish they'd get their act together and start producing again. The info should fall into the "well now you know" category.

All good info, thanks! I have used a depth gauge and plunged holes. This is exactly why I was looking to source s kit from a reputable source, Plenty of chances to screw up an otherwise awesome build!

I just got my KW long block back from it's rebuild. I'm looking at bolts for: Water pump Timing chain cover coolant crossover thermostat housing Intake manifold Lifter valley cover Oil pan Oil pump Oil filter mount, Exhaust manifold bolts Fuel pump Starter Carb mount And Im sure Ive missed some. I'm going to be selling the, running great, 65 L code 401 complete, so can't rob Peter to pay Paul .

Yes, I may just do that, but wanted them to be as "correct" as I could get them. Most, if not all, will be painted.

That is helpful. I guess I will be measuring depths and logging accordingly.

What's the instruction for grabbing the speedo from the front??? Wow! That would be terrific.

I placed an order with bodyboltkits for an indented hex head stainless engine hang on bolt washer set for my 64. They pretty quickly cancelled it due to backorder with no estimate of being able to produce any. I was looking through the latest Riview 38-4 on page 26 and found a link for MMS & ACC under the title "nailhead kits" but for me it's a dead link. Anyone got any ideas for a decent source for correct bolts? Also looking for the place selling exhaust manifold bolts that was avy enough to want to know how many of what length the customer wanted before wasting everyone's time. A steer toward them would be appreciated. I don't want studs. I want hex head bolts like I've got

Not my car but seen Wednesday at Beaches Cruise In at Portland International Raceway in Oregon. Serious chop on this 65!

😉

Here's my Riviera: Its just missing the body! 😉

Moose2, I bought the components, less speedo, from a seller here, who claimed they were functional when removed from a car. I have not tested them. I did source a 64 cruise speedo out of Canada and am now in the process of installing the system. The removal of the instrument cluster is quite the chore! Make sure you have the factory service manual to reference the exploded diagrams at least. If I get it all in and it doesn't work, that's probably how it will stay for awhile, as I don't know anyone who can diagnose components. It looks like a very crude vibrator?/oscillator?/vacuum brain system.

Thanks for the tip (and not doing it in mms!) Ha!

Correct, however the non cruise brake lever lacks the pin. I wonder since it's such a long slot in the switch, if the pin placement is critical, or you have some +/- to play with?

I'm in the process of retrofitting an electro-cruise system into a previously non cruise car. It has factory guidematic, so I've been told all the harness is there waiting. Looking for advice OR the above part. Can I modify my existing brake arm with a pin or am I better off trying to source the factory piece? BTW, whoever designed the assembly of the instrument cluster is hopefully dead, saving me the trouble of hunting them down!! 😉

The switch isn't t the problem. It's that the front upper "wing flanges" of the console sit over the top of the instrument cluster panel and unless I can move it outboard, the console holds it in place.

I'm slowly plugging away at this process, with the dash cap slid aft and all the fasteners removed, but it looks like the center console needs to be slid back to get the ignition switch area out from behind it. Correct, or is there some trick to avoid doing that? AC car btw.

Yeah, but he wanted treats for the mention (Another box of cigars), so I told him (Frank, BTW) to " Pack sand!" Cornering lights: when I dove into the front turn signal housings the bulbs were there, so I knew they were installed. With lights on AND turn signal activated they come on in the direction of the turn. I haven't closely looked at the cowl tag to see if they're mentioned. Forgot to mention the engine dress up kit. (Valve covers)