Deanoko

I looked at the discussion on another thread but couldn't find it again about stock ride height on the first gens. I have a very original 1 owner prior to me car with wire wheels. The car has 21 options that I know of. My question here is how can I tell if I have the heavy duty spring option? Is it on the Fisher Cowl tag? My car sits with the wheel cap centers about 1½" below the trim strip. Others have said it should line up with the trim. I don't think they have ever been swapped or otherwise modified. Is there and color or tag indicator? Thanks. Deano

I bought $330 worth of their stuff today. I figured that might warrant a deal on shipping, but no. One has to spend $500+ to get free shipping.

Thanks Bill! Great info.

I need to replace these on my 64. Steele is quite proud of theirs, but I would pay the money if they were clearly superior. There's also Rubberdonetherightway and Soffseal for half the money. I've tried soffseal on another car and found them to be very spongy feeling. Who has good experience and with what brand?

I had turbine wheels on my 63. You'll never pry them off, as they bolt from the backside!

Of course. Crude but functional. It's too bad they didnt give the blade tip a little angle because,when straight, you've only got (maybe) the 4 and 8 o'clock positions before you're hitting wheel well surrounding quarter panel trim and probably even less, with a flat and in dirt!

I bought Monroe OESpectrum. 5759 and 5760 from carparts.com They'll work just fine. I wasn't going to spend $1000 for shocks and Monroes are made right here.

July of 21 I bought my latest Riv, a 1 owner, unmolested, special ordered 64. I've driven it sparingly, but when I did, the cornering was pretty laughable. Yesterday, and just now, I installed a new set of shocks and discovered what might have been the issue. On all 4 corners resided gold Delco Pleasurizer units with (if I'm reading a date codes correctly) build dates between 1968 and 71! To be fair, the owner only asked for 30 years of service(!), since he died in 2000 and the car had slumbered nicely in heated storage thereafter. I'm looking forward to the next test drive! I just installed the freshly rebuilt correct KW 425 engine and am sorting the Electro-cruise system, not that I will likely use it much.

Of course. Crude but functional. It's too bad they didnt give the blade tip a little angle because,when straight, you've only got (maybe) the 4 and 8 o'clock positions before you're hitting wheel well surrounding quarter panel trim and probably even less, with a flat and in dirt!

I ended up carefully getting them off today. That allowed easy access to the upper shock mounts once the wheel/tire assembly was off. I bought the set of 4 Harbor Freight pry bars, along with the combination pry and rubber hammer affair from Amazon. Between all of them I was able to get the wires off and back on without any damage. Thanks for all the sage advice.

I'm relatively close to a Harbor Freight and will take the plunge. Thanks!

Yes, I get that, but a happy medium would be nice. If one had a flat tire along side the road, should you have to suffer these complex procedures to avoid ruining a cover?

It helps a lot, (thank you!) but makes me wish for the turbine wheels I had on my 63! These things are a pain in the ass!

They are the OEM wires, so I will be careful and work slowly around. Thanks much. Just didnt want to be forgetting some hidden hold down from behind the center, or who knows where else! I'm putting rear shocks on and it looks to be easier to access the top nut with the wheel and tire off.

Is there a trick, or you just pry on them until they bend? ☹️

RHD is very cool! Did not know they did a version.

Yes, I got that. The dimple must come into play on some application, but not an issue on my loaded '64. It's going to be forward on the driver's side. The nearest thing to it is the power steering pump, which is not a conflict.

Re: questions - Well, sort of. There's no clearance issue no matter which side they're mounted on, so the dimple remains a mystery. What would the sequential part number be for the 1366222#? I read here that xxx23 is not a good number. I am surmising that they started life far apart. Good thing is they look like a pair

These came off my LT code 401 and are headed over to my KW code 425 One is 1377933 with oil fill, plug and dimple. The other is 1366222 with the central pcv. My questions: Did these start life as a matched set, or are they a pair of orphans? What is the dimple for? I'm planning on the oil fill on the left and the pcv on the right. Correct, or just "OK"? Engine builder put the rocker oil splash pan between #3 and 5 on the right. Is that to guard the pcv from splashing? '64 Car is factory AC. Many thanks!

Hopefully someone has already skinned this cat and has some info. I want to replace all the fuel lines in the engine bay while doing my KW 1964 engine swap, with air conditioning. If anyone has gathered the lengths and sizes of what I need, it will save me a lot of measuring, or should I just buy 10 or 12 ft of the stuff and call it good? Thanks!

More importantly, how did she get down without her dress ending up over her head? To me, looking at the space under the rocker panels, it looks to be nominal. I don't imagine the PR folks would chop some springs for one shot, thus incurring the wrath of new car buyers upon dealers when they took delivery of a Wildcat with a higher stance.

My former 63 used to "flame out" in the latter stages of a right 270° cloverleaf turn. Injection baby!!

You tell me. I'm just looking at the side view cutaway drawing on 2-4 of the 64 Chassis manual. Pretty obvious there. YMMV.

Looking at the service manuals, the carb is not level.

I want to remove the dash cap for another project, but it looks like I need to disconnect a larger black jacketed wire running from the photocell to the amplifier under the glovebox. Does it just pull out of the amp or is there more involved? Obviously don't want to force something. Thanks!