TomP

​OK regarding the paper and ink used, have been to our local library today and found out that they only use achieve paper in the photocopiers, their prints were used on the main dashboard which was much more cost effective than home printing. The smaller pieces were printed at home using HP Everyday paper and HP ink jet cartridges and according to HP this is a good combination for lasting prints, which leaves the question of the effect of heat that I can't answer.

If you go back to post #15 pic 3 all the holes are there on the painted dash, I was thrown by the 2 small holes either side of the large hole on the dummy which lined up with an oval plate that was with the ignition switch but that was wrong and I'm thinking that the ignition switch goes in the bottom right of the instrument cluster. On the left side there are 2 holes at the bottom close together, am I right in thinking that the freewheeling cable is about the size of the speedo cable and is the second hole an extra?

I had wondered that after I had cut through the paper thinking the ignition switch went there but the hole wasn't big enough, I should have had my owners handbook with me. No great job to redo dummy lid but where you say the knob should go the hole is 3/8" dia instead of 3/16".

Interesting comments , first the good news, both the varnish and lacquer have UV filters, the varnish states "UV filters protect against yellowing and colour fade " and the lacquer " All our clear lacquers contain UV inhibitors / filters as they significantly extend the life of the coating ". Now as far as the paper goes I can't say but will check early next wk. At the outset I had no idea if it would even give a presentable result, so the experiment has been worth while, whether it will have longevity time will tell on this car. My main concern was to keep the ingress of moisture out, heat from the sun is not a problem in the UK so I didn't take that into account, all I can suggest on that is to do a trial on a glove box lid and dummy lid if some one could come up with the parts and I'll send them back to be put out in the sun under glass. I do have a question on the assembled dash I have a large hole in the middle of the dummy lid, I would say it's about 1" dia and also goes through the main dashpanel. I would add there is still more coats to bring the colour down.

Thanks so much for your good comments, problem over here in the UK there is nothing to compare it with other than photos left on the net, I think I'm right in saying that POC only has 4/5 members currently registered from UK. You have given me the confidence to go forward and today I will mock-up the add-on parts to get an idea of the finished panel. Mr T. your opinion is held in high regard. Bill my intention is to add finish photos to a web page I am in the process of collating.

​Just had a break in the weather and thought I would get the main dash under-way, my only concern is does it look too uniform? I knew at the start it would not look authentic but because I have veneered it is it to pretty. The colour will darken with layers of varnish, this photo is print only and it will match the top section. Right Hand Drive

It looks like the main dash panel is welded in place, somebody who stripes these for a living may come by and say different but as I see it, it can't be removed without some force being applied. would seam that the design of fitting the top insert was changed between your build and mine Mr T., mine is a Detroit September build or perhaps where the body styles came from??

I have answered my own question, fortunately my dash is completely bear, so I struck my head or almost through the instrument cluster hole, when I first read the thread I had thought there must be a tray or something to collect any water that enters the vent, sorry MR T hope I've replied before you got your camera out.

I am restoring a 33 Plymouth PD R/S should there be a rain collector under the vent? all I have is the vent lid and opening linkage, any chance of posting photos of the underside of the vent. Many thanks

I checked today and pretty sure it's spot welded down the front side of the 'A' pillar also there is a weld at the top corner close to the screen opening, this weld gets covered by the top dash insert. On that subject mine has threaded hank bushes in the 4 fixings so I don't have those rubber expanding bushes. The dash does have 4 3/4" dia depressions where the earlier dashes were pierced thru. I'll take my camera with me tomorrow.

Hi Billy, thanks for your kind words, I'm chuffed with the results, just the big piece to do but it is all made up of mainly three oval holes for the instrument cluster, glove box and dummy glove box lid. ​The art of decoupage, modern colour printers and time.

​Perhaps I didn't make myself clear, it was the dash panel itself that I was questioning as to whether that is removable or not. If it has to be done in situe it will have to wait for the better weather, chilly and damp here now. ​Thanks again for the excellent work you do on the PD's and others.

Hi Dwight glad you like it, there was no way I wanted to spend £400 + shipping for a kit I would only use once and if I'd wanted to save more I could have taken the files on a memory stick to the print shop and saved the ink on my printer. It may be a fix for someone that's got a repair because you can change the final colour by the tint in the varnish, I finished with 7 coats of clear and 3 of light oak, the more light oak used the greener it looked but it also makes it darker, if that makes sense.

Have just finished the Top Dashboard insert, thought I would post up the end results being that this part shows before and after. the light plays tricks but I think you will get the idea. Mr T am I right in thinking that the panel that these parts fix to is part of the body shell?? Thanks for looking

Basically the first part of the thread before the images is a rant about a product that the supplier advice me would do the job IMO it was most unsuitable, cost me far more than what I finished up doing, Sorry for airing my thoughts. 1. The Italian product did not stretch or shrink while using the heat gun, there was also a loss in adhesion. 2. The pattern was only printed on plain copy paper. 3. After the printed paper had dried on the panel I first sprayed it with 1 coat of clear lacquer before applying 10 coats of clear varnish. My reason for multiple coats of varnish was to create a deep moisture barrier to protect the paper.

Hi Allan. Thanks for your interest, I went back to basics, after reading ply33's experiments and experiences while tackling his rebuild I decided it wasn't a way that I could make it look right (nothing wrong at all with Mr T's instructions just unknown territory for me). I found this image in A4 I then printed it onto plain copy paper, full size print with no border, I didn't use adhesive backed paper because I needed the movement and flexibility between the paper and the metal surfaces. (by flipping the image perfect joints can be made when joining pieces) Some might liken it to wallpapering, so I'll say it for them. Note of warning !! I found that if I didn't spray the back of the paper with clear lacquer after printing the red ink would bleed through to the glued side causing the print to turn green. I used PAV paper adhesive brushed out evenly then straight to the part, NO soak time. Beware of air bubbles. You can also get away slight overlap which is disguised by the 10 layers of varnish.

Have spent time lately trying to find a way of recreating the finish on the Dashboard and window Garnishes for my 33 PD. Not being an artist I looked to find what was available on the market but all I found was expensive systems and services which didn't sit well with my budget. I found some plastic material under flexible foil and phoned the company to check it out, it's got an adhesive backing which I thought would save time, it's applied with a heatgun so stretching and shrinkage is taken care of so that would look after the contours of the panels, and when finished it can be lacquered to keep it safe. Sounded to good to be true and it was, so I have in stock 2 x A3 sheets which I can't use or return, forgot to say the instructions were in Italian. This is what I finished with. Basically I found a print on the net while surfing for burr walnut images, I flipped it to get the other hand, printed it in best quality, glued it to the metalwork, gave it 10 coats of clear varnish, rubbed it down with 1000 wet and dry and followed up with 2 good coats of quality clear lacquer. Its not perfect, needs cutting back with cutting compound and a polish, hopefully then will be good top go. Cost probably less that £20 and about 50 hrs, but times cheap these days being retired. Hope you like.

​All looks good from here Chris, when are you planning to do the loose fit?

​Any chance you could post a photo, someone that knows the parts may have an opinion on what it might fit?

If this seller has been trading for more than 8 years I find it unbelievable that he doesn't have a returns policy, I'm not defending him, I'm the other side of the pond. Is there anyway that you have been supplied with the wrong parts, I say this because these parts aren't easy to make. I just hope it's not one of the suppliers I mentioned above, at this stage I wouldn't think you have thrown good money away. I am in need of the same part for my 33 PD but I will probably make it, just done the bottom rear quarters and patched the rear panel on my R/S Coupe. Keep us posted

With the problem of rain water running of the trunk lid should there be a rain collector within the trunk? Some sort of gutter between the curved side rails with an outlet pipe to carry water through the floor to the outside. Remember we are talking Rumble seat Coupe. Any ideas and photos if a standard part exists. Thanks for your help.

Thanks Mike, that's the dims. plus Chris has sent me close-ups across the complete panel assembly. Forward with the projects, I'm getting ready start the interior wood frame in the rumble seat area, once Ive sorted out if there should be rain collector attached to the rear panel below the lid opening.

Hi Gents, I think this is what you are talking about http://members.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewUserPage&userid=plymouthdoctor they do panels from 1935 onwards, if you want earlier go to http://www.rileyreproductions.com/ 1933/34. Hope it helps.

This has just popped up in my inbox, maybe of interest to someone. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1933-PLYMOUTH-PC-PD-COUPE-SEDAN-33-EXTREMELY-RARE-ORIGINAL-PAINT-CHIPS-DUPONT-/370901042652?ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:GB:3160

​Ian your last posting is a great asset, just need someone to do the same for a Plymouth PD.Thank you.