Oldtech

Could be Idle circuit in carb plugged too. But Check for vacuum leaks first. What engine are we talking here?

Actually...My reason for installing the distributor was that you need it to drive the oil pump if you are cranking the engine. Didn't even think of the galley.

M-Mman describes the conundrum exactly. I am just telling you what has worked for me in the past. You need to assess your engine and see what condition everything is in, and go from there. I'm just suggesting the parts most likely to need replacement .

I suspect . ABear that you are right. There is also, I think, A special necked down headbolt that goes in that location to allow oil up to the rocker shaft. The later sixes had the grooved bearing that provided full time flow to the rockers. At any rate, put the distributor in and spin the engine with the starter and see what happens before you start pulling things apart.

Re the ring set. I agree that cast rings are appropriate for this job, and would be my first choice, but I wouldn't be concerned about putting chrome ones in either. If you hone the cylinders enough to get the crosshatch pattern desired (30-45 degrees) you should be fine. Also, some makers suggest doing a 25-60 mph acceleration fairly hard about 10 times to seat the rings. I'm not crazy about it but have done it and it seems to work. But if we get into a break-in discussion everyone has an opinion. If this was my little project I would: 1. Take the heads to the engine shop and get them "done" 2. Assuming no other issues, hone and new ringss 3. Replace the rod shells. even if the mains aren't . And, of course new seals all around.

Yes on the POR 15 needing a topcoat if it sees the sun at all. Makes a good durable finish then.

looks like the sight glass on the Air Cond works. If that's missing the AC isn't working but doesn't affect the engine.

I wouldn't be concerned about the valve color if there are no other obvious issues. Things like variations in mixture between cylinders can make a difference. Old engines often had uneven fuel distribution.

To get the valve out I would try to get the head in a press and press it out. If the engine has press in guides the complete guide may come out but that's ok. Soak it well in PBBlaster or something for a while before attempting.

First: oversize valves are likely not available anymore but a shop can either drill the guide and press in a bushing or replacement guide to repair the loose one. There is also the process called knurling where they use a tool to ridge or knurl the inside of the hole , then run a reamer through it to size it. The advantage of this is that it retains oil in the guide to lube the stem. The disadvantage is that the wear surface is considerably smaller so may not last as long. However it will last more than long enough for a collector car. Second: definitely install new rings. You need to hone the cylinders so new rings will seat properly and work best. And, of course the pistons must be checked for wear and condition. Rings are available in virtually all sizes. Three: The valves should be ground, preferrably by the shop. They can grind the seat and the valve face. If you are having guide work done, grinding is a must as the bew guide may not be exactly on center with the new seat. Yes a good shop will get them very close! You can lap valves by hand at home, but if you spend a few bucks on the heads you will be happy.

My $.02 worth: The cylinder wear you can ignore. Ridge ream the cylinders, hone them well, and it will work well for 30-50 k miles. The hone job matters especially if there are "ripples" in the cylinder wall as these seem to cause more wear than a plain taper. You may get a few tick sounds when cold otherwise it should be ok. The valve stems - at least the looser ones need help but that isn't a big problem for an engine shop. They can be bushed, or knurled. Relatively inexpensive. As long as you aren't flogging the engine it should work well. This opinion comes from my younger days when I used to fix worn engines for as little money as possible. Your mileage may vary!

If there is a rubber bumper that is missing which is supposed to stop the pedal coning back too far, that can cause it to knock the switch back, which makes the lights come on when it is resting on the booster rod. I had this problem on a Ford F 600.

Ford used "Japan Enamel" on the Model T as it was the only thing that dried fast enough for their production.

Do you have "free play" in the pedal at the TOP . There needs to be 3/4' motion fefore the pedal starts picking up the clutch spring pressure. If there is, then either the clutch corks are worn out or there is a spring issue. They were designed to start smoothly and as the oil wiped off the cork engage more firmly.

My first idea was a coolant leak - seepage from head gasket maybe? but usually both valves would be clean so... I dunno.

I figure one should start with varnish. You can always paint them later. If you paint now it's hard to go back. I like the varnished look anyway.

That's better. IMHO use it for a trailer. The wheels have been cut down and 16" rims fitted. Looks like later 20's from the thickness of the spokes and looks like it had front wheel brakes.

Torque tube. No rear Universal. Is the u joint assembled or split? Normally you split the u joint to remove the rear or trans.

1931 What Coupe?

YES, It is a door catch that screws onto the pillar. Looks maybe late 20,s or 30's but I can't tell you what vehicle.

The small screw above the line connector with the hole in it is the bleed screw. Get it loostened up, then have dad step on the pedal and open the screw. Close it BEFORE you let the pedal up. I always go closest wheel to farthest but there's debates on that on here. BTW put that copper washer/gasket back where it belongs. Likely the line coupling bolt.

Juat looking at the engine I don't see a problem with leaving them open. Otherwise you only have the small holes front and back on that side. If the gaskets came from Olsons you could ask them why they are that way. Maybe they know.

The wheels tell me it's a late 20's. Body apears to be by fire engine builder.

Lahti35 has 2 good points. A third is how much blowby does the engine have and is the vent for the crankshaft clear? Crankcase pressure will make them leak no matter how tight the mechanicals.