pacerman

Pat. the foil side of the gasket faces the manifold. It was explained to me that the manifold expanded more than the block and the foil accommodates some of that movement. Joe

More please

It looks like you have lots of room in your garage/shop. That's half the battle. It's also interesting to see the flathead six being rebuilt. Joe

Go to The AMC Forum (google it) and the ask your question there. They guy who has it has posted lots of pictures and certainly seems like a nice guy. I forget his name but I'm on that forum several times a day. His posts about the Vignale AMX were mostly made last year, but there's a search engine you can use to find them. If you post the question, though, I'm sure you'll get responses and won't have to use the search engine. Good luck. joe

Then and Now Automotive (google it) can rebuild your fuel pump or sell you a kit. I think Kanter's has suspension parts for the old Nashes (trunnions and such, or at least shocks). I don't have any Nashes but I have plenty of AMCs. Nice car BTW.

There are some YouTube videos of 1962 Fords being built in Dearborn. I'm sure the body and assembly details will almost duplicate what was done on yours. Go to youtube.com and use the search function to find those videos if you are curious. And keep up the good work. My projects are have all been old AMCs so far so I like the uncommon projects. Joe

I don't have a 1939 service manual and can't find a spark plug application chart online, but the early sixties OHV 195.6 engines and the L-heads specify a number of plugs including Champion H-10 and H-18Y. You want a 14mm, gasketed (not taper seat) non-resistor plug. You could ask someone in the Nash Car Club for more information. I recommend you buy a service manual for your car. It is useful for so many things. Joe

I have used California Car Covers (google it) for my "keeper" cars here on the central coast of CA. They are rather pricey not matter what fabric you choose. Most of my cars sit out the weather so the cover needs to be UV resistant to last for a few years. Another alternative is Covercraft I think which is cheaper than the CCC covers. I just ordered one for my 62 Classic wagon. Both of these companies can make covers that fit. The cheaper covers like the Budge covers available at the auto parts stores won't last but a couple of years out in the sun. The do provide some protection though before they disintegrate. Joe

Since when did youze guyses in Philly worry about gramma? LOL Good luck with the sale. Nice car.

I suggest you contact the major AMC parts vendors and the AMC Rambler Club (google for the website) as well as the Nash Car Club. Those motor mounts (or repairable ones or suitable substitutes are lurking out there somewhere). The major AMC vendors are Kennedy American in Ohio, American Parts Depot in Ohio, and Galvin's Rambler Parts in Lodi, CA. All of them have websites. Also, there is a 1939 Nash roller on the Los Angeles craigslist site. Maybe the seller has parts he will sell. Good luck. Joe

If they are rubber mounts, and you have the old ones, they can be revulcanized. Contact Then and Now Automotive. Google it. Good Luck, Joe

I would trust the Hollander information. I don't think many parts interchange between the smaller Rambler suspension and the senior cars (Nashes). The merger you referred to was between Hudson and Nash. The last Hudson built in Detroit happened I think in late 1954. The merger was in May 1954. After 1954 Hudsons were built, using a Nash chassis in Kenosha, WI on the same line that produced Nashes.

Mr. Buelow, regarding the radiator core, you might want to call the radiator shop in my town, Salinas, CA (area code 831). Salinas Radiator is the shop I use and they were able to either get my core rebuilt or find a new one. My car was a 1962 Rambler Classic. Your radiator core should be even more common than mine. Good Luck, Joe.

Reproductions are available from some of the AMC vendors. Suggestions are Galvin's Rambler Parts in Lodi, CA or American Parts Depot in Ohio. Google either vendor for contact information. Good Luck.

If it's a Borg Warner it would probably have "Warner Gear" cast somewhere into the case. It's an interesting thread. Good luck with the car.

If you are talking about the mighty-mite I think you can google that name and you should get lots of hits. Joe

Craig, I have a couple of suggestions for you. Join the Nash Car Club (google it) and you will be connected with lots of folks who have Nashes of that era. Also, look for a Service Manual for your car and get a driver's manual. Both documents will eventually show up on Ebay if you can get them from someone in the club or one of the auto literature dealers. You'll feel so much more confident about owning your car if you have read those documents. Generally the Borg-Warner overdrives have a knob that you push in to give the overdrive a chance to operate. Push in that knob and accelerate to about 28 mph in third year, then let off the gas and the car goes into overdrive. You can feel it and tell that your engine is turning fewer rpms. You can leave the knob pushed in and the car automatically drops out of overdrive when you slow below the high-twenties in mph. What you have to be careful with is pulling the knob out and taking it out of overdrive while the car is coasting. I think the manual says you can do it while the engine is driving the car, but it's better to do it with the car standing still. I'm summarizing the overdrive information from my driver's manual for a 62 Rambler Classic, but I think the older overdrives work the same way. They were all Borg-Warner units. Have fun with your car. Joe

You sir, are proving once again that you have the unique ability to make a silk purse out of a sow's ear. Great work. Joe

If you are in southern California and are against using a sandblaster, I suggest you take your sheet metal and frame to Strip Clean in Santa Ana, CA. Google it. They did some great work on my Rambler sheet metal a few years ago. There's nothing like working with clean rust free metal. Joe

If you are in southern California and are against using a sandblaster, I suggest you take your sheet metal and frame to Strip Clean in Santa Ana, CA. Google it. They did some great work on my Rambler sheet metal a few years ago. There's nothing like working with clean rust free metal. Joe

I have a couple of 65 American hoods here at home and I think the emblem holes in the hood will accept barrel clips. You just push the barrel clips in the holes and then push the emblem prongs down in to the barrel clips. No need to mess with silicone caulk. You can confirm this with Doug Galvin and Galvin's Rambler Parts in Lodi, I think.

I'd like more info about the green 40 to 46 Nash shown as whole car in your pics. Please call 831-206-6057. Joe

Typed a long reply and lost it so here goes again. The engine will be either the L-head 195.6 or the overhead valve version of the same engine. The L-head is only 90 hp so it's not a race car. The OHV is 128 hp so it's noticeably more torquey especially at low speed. The unitized body is pretty rattle free, just like Amc advertised. You'll need to take car of that old engine by torquing the head bolts as soon as you get the car. They'll need to be re-torqued on teh OHV engine every few thousand miles. They are both solid lifter engines and have forged crankshafts and connecting rods so in that sense they are overbuilt. One weak point is the front suspension if not properly maintained. You'll need to keep the trunnions properly lubricated and inspect for wear. If you buy the car you'll need to learn to maintain that suspension or find a gray-haired mechanic who understands it. There's a lot of info on the internet to help you now. If the windshield leaked or if you have the rubber floor mats instead of carpet you can have rusty floors even in California and that can be more serious on a unitized body that body on frame. Driveline parts are still available although some parts for the 195.6 are getting pricey. Good luck with it and if you buy it join the AMC forum at theamcforum.com Joe

Congratulations Ernie. I did the same thing yesterday (first movement under it's own power in years) in my 62 Rambler Classic wagon. I'll be watching to see yours finished. Joe

Just a suggestion, but you may want to go back to a good set of points and condenser to determine if the Pertronix is a problem unless you can contact them and confirm specific part numbers on the parts for your six cylinder application. Joe