pacerman

Also, www.stovebolt.com would have all the answers you are seeking. Good luck with your truck.

It's a 55 or 56 Nash. Can't tell if it is Ambassador or a Statesman. Joe

Based on what I have read, unequal spacing on the fan blades is intended to reduce fan noise. Equal spacing of blades can induce a harmonic pulse to the air flow which supposedly produces more noise.

I posed your question about the circular bracket on the AMC Forum and have not yet received a reply. Maybe you could try contacting someone in the Nash Car Club (google it) and I'm pretty confident that someone will know what the function of that part is. Joe

So you asked Mr. Havekost and he didn't know?

I don't have an answer for you but you can ask Mr. Havekost at havekost@tdi.net . Send your picture along with your inquiry. Good Luck, Joe

I'm pleased that you found it. All of the Nash colors back then seemed to be pretty muted. No Candy Apple Red for sure. Joe

There should be both a Trim code and a Paint Code on your data plate. The paint code (from the chart that was posted) may be T for the Tan in 1948 but check it. The Trim code is the code for the color and style of upholstery you have. Some cars could have a bench seat up front for instance, which would require a different code that a split bench or reclining seats. The broghams (sp?) had a unigue back seat. The T in the Trim code might have stood for Tan or maybe not. You would need a salesman's data book for similar type of information to know for sure. Joe

Art, Here is one page that pops up when you google Flanders roadster. http://www.peterspioneers.com/flanders.htm

Not trying to butt in here, just trying to be helpful. I got this off of the team Buick forum, as the result of a google search for the blue paint code: The reddish sweepspear paint was called Tangerine and is Dulux mixing formula #56505H. Green #56515H and Blue #56516H were added for this application on 3/1/57. A Product Service Bulletin was issued later on during the year on how to refinish these trim pieces. The blue and green parts must not have been too common. Their part numbers were later cancelled. The factory then instructed dealers to order Tangerine parts and to repaint them. Hope this helps. Joe (a Rambler guy).

I thought I'd post one of my AMCs. I found this 1962 Classic based model with rubber floor mat in a garage in San Jose. It was a one owner car but very tired and dirty. I put new tires, on her with powder coated wheels, refreshed the front seats, replaced the rear carpet, shocks, brakes including the very scarce (if not rare) master cylinder, heater core, and had the cylinder head rebuilt with new valves. Also had the radiator recored and the fuel tank refurbished. She has an NOS grill and parking lights. She's a three-speed stick, with overdrive and gets about 21 miles per gallon. 1962 was the last year for the "old style" big Rambler car chassis, with flat glass in the side windows. The engine is a 195.6 overhead valve six cylinder with solid lifters. Her name is Leona. Pardon the slow start on the narration. It was one of my first videos and I was not sure what I needed to say before I turned the camera on. Here's a video:

Engines were generally painted as whole assemblies, minus the accessories like the generator and distributor. I think the paint was whatever enamel was in use at the time. In your case, probably the old air dry alkyd enamel. No primer was used as far as I know. Just the paint over clean metal. I think the modern spray paints in the appropriate colors are pretty good. A lot of people use them. You don't need "high heat" paint. Joe

Cats somehow understand physics.

Looks like Marilyn as a bit of a 'tood. Have fun with her. Joe

Well, it's only logical that someone had to put that latch in the door. So there must be access. It looks like there is a wilkie button type plug there that could be pried loose and provide some direct access to the latch. Joe

If you can get the inside door panel off (even if you have to wreck it), you can use get better access to the latch assembly. Use a long screwdriver to try to move the door lock mechanism and cycle any of the parts on the latch that are intended to move. There might be room to tap the end of the screwdriver with a mallet or hammer to help force the issue. Get yourself a good light so you can see what you are doing. I have fought this problem (seems it happens more often with rear doors) on two cars now. You'll get it eventually. Joe

Regarding the carb tag, the number sequence seems to be consistent with what Carter did for later carburetors. The large 50S is a model number for the carb. The J 8 8 is a date code which probably decodes to August 8 1928. If Carter did not ignore the letter "I" in the date sequence, the date would be September 8, 1928. Joe

I suggest you search for youtube videos on Nash projects and do a google search for unibody repair. I think one unibody (true unibody) is about a like any others.

You might be better off asking this question to a Nash Car Club member or on their buy/sell classifieds page. But the three big AMC vendors , Kennedy American, and American Parts Depot in Ohio and Gavelin's (not sure of spelling) Rambler Parts in Lodi, CA have a few older Nash parts in their inventory. They might also be able to put you in touch with aftermarket companies that make some parts that fit, depending upon what you need. Egge Machine in California makes pistons and some other engine internals. Kanter's in New Jersey has engine and suspesion parts. Good Luck.

If those door hinge screws have the large phillips head, you need an impact driver with a large phillips bit. That's the way to make short work of those screws and to keep from having to drill one out. Joe

Welcome to the forum. You sound young (That's a good thing.) and somewhat inexperienced (not necessarily a bad thing.) My family had a 60 Chevy sport sedan (4-door hardtop or flat top as it was often called). It had a 235 six and a powerglide so it was not a hotrod. But I still remember how smoothly it rode. To answer some of your questions: Every restoration car does not necessarily need to be dipped. I had parts dipped and it's a great way to get back to bare metal. If your car is not likely to have hidden rust, like insde the rocker panels, under the hood braces, in the a-pillars, you can clean it up just fine without dipping it. That should save some money and actually save you some time too, when you consider the time it takes for complete disassembly and re-assembly when dipping is involved. Second, aftermarket paint jobs are rarely "baked" any more. Most of the modern urethane paints whether single stage or two-stage are chemically hardened using an additive called strangely enough, a hardener. Whether you like to read or not, I advise you to start reading books, magazines, online articles, etc. about paint and body work. The information is all out there. And be sure, when you settle on a paint system that you want to use, get the product data sheets for all of the layers in the system, primers, sealers, and top coats. Adhere to the instructions in there and you are almost guaranteed to get a decent paint job. Good luck with your project. There is lots of help here on this forum, so feel free to ask questions if you have them as you begin getting your hands dirty. It's a great hobby. Joe

I'm not familiar with old Mopars but the best (I think.) advice I can give you is to get the service manual for your car. They can be purchased from the major auto literature dealers. Also, I advise you to join the brand/specific car club for your car. You'll tap in to a world of expertise and probably make some good long distance friends. Good luck with it. Joe

I remember that black one being listed on craigslist and figured it was take a parts car to fix it or it would become a parts car. At least the good parts won't go to waste. Keep up the good work. Joe

There's one on Ebay right now (7 May 14). Search on Rambler tank -fits in Ebay Motors. Joe

You might try to contact Northwest Transmission Parts (google it) to see if they know anyone they sell parts to, who refurbs those old stick shift with OD transmissions and offers them for sale. Northwest will probably have the parts too if you find a transmission that needs work. The 3-speed overdrive (combo was common in Ramblers and Studebakers). Those were Borg Warner trannies and R10/R11 overdrives in the 50s and 60s I think. Maybe Ford used the same thing. I"m not sure. Joe