CTX-SLPR

Since my Riviera is still in transit, how long is the center console section and how long are the door inserts?

So one of the fun things about moving into a new place is you get the previous persons mail. Last place we got handbell stuff, here I just got a guitar repair and building supply catalog and they have the Indian Rosewood I want to use for paneling in the car. Its shockingly expensive so I'm wondering how much I need in square inches from the recent DIY wood guys. Thanks,

Howdy, I will be starting to drive my restromodded 64 Riviera to work on a semi-frequent basis and need to fix up a few things before I can do so. One of the more annoying things I need to fix from a daily driver perspective is the over chopped rear springs. Seeking a pair of stock or even better H2 rear springs. I also need some of the antenna mounting hardware such as the big washered bolt on the bottom that holds the motor bracket to the access panel and the clip that holds the bezel to the fender. Thanks,

I just reassembled mine and the only little U-shaped bracket I remember is up front under the lighter on my 64. I think there is a bracket for the light lens but that is all I remember. Might be a running change after loose consoles or something.

I have no experience with this but I've at least seen it mentioned in a magazine: http://www.locknstitch.com/cast-iron-welding.html Seems exactly what you are looking for the external cracks. If you have a bore crack, well sleeves run ~$150 a hole I think. Hope you can save it.

Lens to housing or light to body gaskets?

Still interested in the above parts. PRL came through with the light sockets as mentioned above, thanks man!

http://www.snorgtees.com/not-begun-to-procrastinate

So... I hate to be asking this but I'm contemplating going back to grad school and that means I'd likely not have space and need the money from my 64's original 425 and ST400 stored in a crate. The 425 ran hot and had low compression on #1 so would need a rebuild of some sort. The ST400 is good to go however and I kept all the switches and linkages just in case I wanted to go back to the original drivetrain from the Turbo6 and 4L80E. What would this be worth? Don't want to sell it but it might be the only way to keep the car period. Thanks,

I'm totally restromodded anyway so I'd be fine with them hiding inside of my console. Let me know how much and how to get it too you. Those are my biggest need, the rest I can kludge around or do without for awhile, all my repairs have not lasted a reassembly and shorted out the courtesy lights fuse which was fine before I started trying to fix them.

I'm looking for a few small parts for my '64. 1. Light sockets in the center console for the foot well lights. I need the socket and enough wire to splice into the original harness. Both of mine have pulled the power wire out of the socket. 2. Power Antenna bolt that holds the motor to the access panel in the passengers inner fender 3. Power Antenna clip that holds the chrome piece to the fender 4. Heater/Evaporator dual stage vacuum diaphragm Thanks,

I added the line for the heater valve and the 6 port grommet on the firewall as well as replumbing the line colors to match the '65 diagram. That part is good to the limit of me testing it. The Heater/Evaporator 2 stage diaphragm is leaking so I plugged the lines to it. Good point about being able to truly evacuate the system volume with a hand pump. I'll try it when I start the car next time. The upper valve block thing is a little sticky returning to full off position, I replaced the spring and it still doesn't want to pull fully shut with no vacuum. If that valve is bad I'll swap back to the '64 head if I can find the rubber block for the top of the head and 'T' off of the heater line like the ROA article says, just on the cabin side since I already have the line run for the valve through the new grommet.

Good idea on the settings. I have all the lines run according to the '65 manual and best I can seen in the console nothing has popped off. Will check tomorrow. HVAC head is the control unit with the levers and such on it.

Howdy, Chasing down the vacuum system on my '64 which has a '65 HVAC head swapped into it. I've got a bad diaphragm which I've plugged the lines to. I've checked the rest of the lines individually and they hold vacuum just fine with a hand pump when attached to diaphragms, the STV, and heater valve. Could the control head be causing a near instant drop in the vacuum when I test the system with a hand pump? Thanks,

My '64 has power windows 100% of the time. Likely because they share the same power as the power seat which should have power all the time. Hope that helps and by all means, kick back when this stops being fun and move on to something else. Even if that something else is a nap... I took one of those today.

Howdy, Can someone post up a good set of pictures of the 81-85 T-type badging locations and the badges themselves? Thanks,

I'm pretty sure it's just a reservoir for vacuum so your accessories don't cut out at WOT or other low vacuum situations.

Thought I'd get some better pictures up including my Autometer Speedo, Tach, and boost gauge (well the Tach and boost gauge have been in the cluster for a while) Pardon the mess, still putting stuff back together.

Convert the rubber bushings over to sealed spherical bearings like a Johnnie Joint to free up the front suspension. Plan is to put a set in the lower arms and in the strut rod positions. With sleeves in place it will be easier to mount them vs. a hollow frame that I'd either have to sleeve or otherwise build a housing for. Steering box is staying as is the frame side of the suspension. Eventually I'm hopefully going to fab spindles and redesign the suspension for a much more modern geometry. That will require high positive offset wheels but will drive much better.

Howdy, I noticed that I've somehow melted a hole in the HVAC vacuum ball on the passengers inner fender. Does anyone have a spare they'd part with? Thanks,

Thanks a bunch! I'll digest these for suspension upgrade plan I have.

If you don't mind taking some measurements off of the new and old parts it would be of great help to me. I'd like to know the ID of the inner sleeve, the OD of the whole assembly, the OD of the bushing only, the length of the sleeve, and the length of the inner sleeve of the bushing. Thanks,

I installed the "Big Four" (Oil Pressure, Coolant Temp, Voltage, and Fuel Level) in the radio plate. This is the raw version, when I put new veneer on the rest of the interior, this will get skinned as well. Here it is in the car:

Since the heads are the same side to side, there is another temperature probe spot on the passengers head in the back (going from memory on which side). You could put the temperature sensor for the fan there.

I like it for the most part, I need to finish up the trunk floor with a hinged access panel that goes to the rear axle kickup. Performance wise, I killed a fuel pump soon after I got it but who knows how old the one that came with the tank was. I've also not finished up mounting the gas filler neck so it just floats in the license plate opening for the time being.