CTX-SLPR

You can interchange them if you change the vacuum plumbing. I did this on my 64 when I put in a 65 head to match a vacuum heater valve. Best to put new lines in because the 64 lines won't reach the spots on the 65 head. Unless the head is in better shape I wouldn't bother with the swap, they look the same and with the swap info on the ROA website you can get the vacuum valve working with the 64 head.

If I remember correctly it's a 26 gallon tank for the plastic. The metal ones I think are a fuzz smaller, like 23 but I'm not sure.

I got to say, other than looking somewhat like a 67-68 Camaro, I like it. http://www.autotraderclassics.com/find/vehicle/vehicleDetail.xhtml?adId=1910025&conversationId=2707327 I'd put the wheel well and body line trim back on it but the horseshoe trim delete actually looks nice. Also I DO like the '65 rear bumper best of all, when you are going through that much sheet metal work, hardly seems like a hard thing to add. Most happy about them keeping the nailhead too.

Impala tank next to a stock '64 tank. Hole I cut to clear the pump and fuel lines.

Another options if you are willing to do some fabrication is to use a TBI or LT1/L99 B-body tank with some fab. I put a 96 Impala SS tank in mine and while I notched the frame to clear, with some patience and care you could heat and deform the plastic tank just enough to fit (the interference is like 0.25-0.375in at worse and just at the forward corners). The filler neck attaches with a rubber hose so you could fab your own. The earlier TBI tanks are metal so you could just bash the corners with a hammer (or cut and weld) one to fit. Both are baffled best I know. The only downsides are the fabrication of the tank hangers and depending on how much you care about it hanging down, you'd have to cut a hole in the trunk floor to clear the pump if you choose to put the rest of the tank up against the trunk floor. Fabricating the hangers for the straps (I used the B-body straps) is fairly easy. Mine is hung from a piece of angle iron with end plates welded on the end bolted to the frame and a pair of 1.5in stands bolted inside the rear cross member. I also cut a hole in the trunk floor so I could maintenance the pump without pulling the tank should I want to. The alternative would be to lower the mounts so the bumper end bolted right too the rear crossmember and fab spacers to keep the tank from bouncing up. I think that will also complicate the filler neck depending on how much you are willing to cut the rear crossmember up. Final option is Rick's Tanks building you a custom unit but that is money and would not look like a factory piece.

Howdy, Does anyone have one laying around (new/old, doesn't matter) That can get me some dimensions off it? Need OD and under flange length. Thanks,

I didn't do your O'clock very well did I, hopefully the description of towards or away from the firewall with the cable was more helpful.

2 O'clock, cable pulls towards the firewall (and the cable hold down on the bracket) to shut it off.

Hehe... I'm still in the DC area, just looking into what's out there since I might be moving to LLNL.

Howdy, I see three California chapters but they farthest North seems to be the North side of LA. Is there anything organized in the San Fran (or Livermore more precisely) area? Thanks,

So sad to hear... Phil helped me yank the engine out of my '64 just after I moved to C-Springs in 2010 to fix the low oil pressure. I remember also bumping into him at the local car shows and him being pleased to see it was moving under its own power. He'll be sorely missed by us here on this Earth but I know he's Home now.

Anyone have the complete list of dimensions on these bushings? OD: ID: Length: Flange position: Thanks,

Howdy, Can anyone take some measurements for me? Front Lower Control Arm Bushing length, OD and ID. Strut Rod Bushing ID and the frame hole ID. Working with a supplier to track down Monoball type bushings for those positions for my Grand Touring (Pro-Touring with less of a track focus) build. Thanks,

Wish I could join ya'll but I'm going to be out of town till Friday and just catch the show on the way back home late morning. My Riv is in pieces still.

For those wanting stereo, it is possible with a bit of filing to the speaker mount ears and a little bit of fabrication to put a pair of conventional 4in speakers in there and have them clear the controls (I have the full deck of controls including defroster on my '64) on both the '64 and '65. I've done it on both. I've used both Infinity Kappa and Polk Reference to do it. Only real trick it to have the wires come out towards the firewall or outsides; if you put them in the middle or toward the interior you're out of room.

I wish I could make more of it but it looks like I'll just get to wander through the parking lot on my way home from the Denver Airport that morning and not get to bring my Riv. Oh well, there will be time later. Maybe ya'll will have it within range of the DC area sometime in the next 3yrs. Still willing to try and drive my Riv to the hotel on Saturday morning for a bit to catch people as the leave...

Forgive me but I'm not finding it.

Howdy, Well I hate to say this but I live in C-Springs and I'm gone on business till Friday morning! What time is the show on Friday wrap up? Maybe I can catch some of the straglers who want to see mine on Saturday before people roll out at the hotel. Thanks,

Howdy, I need to rebuild the power window rollers and such on my '64. What is the best source for these parts? Also I put in Classic Buick window rubber 5yrs ago and it's developed a split at the bend over the quarter window. Did I do it wrong or is it just likely to do that on the Classic Buick rubber? Is there a better source? Thanks,

Hmmm... I might need to do some restromodding of that vent when I'm done monkeying around with the rest of the dash... I like the idea for sure!

My Saab has the cup holder in the console and it's annoying to use honestly as you want to put your arm there and all you find is the top of the drink and/or the hole in the console.The '63 should be easy with putting something out of like a Toyota truck or Corolla in the full width ashtray door area. I've thought about the cup holders from the 97.5-04 W-body Regal might work on the 64-65's behind the ashtray doors but you probably couldn't get it into PARK with a drink in it.

Howdy, I'm wondering if it's possible to put a '67-70 steering collumn in a 1st Gen, specifically my '64. With the lack of shoulder harnesses, and a good place to put them on the unreinforced hardtop roof, the prospects of being in a wreck with the solid collumn aren't the the prettiest. With the Fed's mandating better safety items in '67, collaspable collumns showed up. Has anyone tried to fit an OEM unit to a 1st Gen Riviera? Thanks,

I'm active Air Force but I'm a Physicist, on my 3rd Riviera too!

Howdy, I'm getting annoyed at the electrical problems of my '64 Riviera and I keep looking at my pile of junkyard relays and other electronic gizmos and thinking about stripping the whole wiring harness out of the car and redoing it from scratch with a Painless or equivilent 20+ circuit harness. Fortunately, taking inventory of the shear number of things I'd have to wire up even with a harness kills that idea quickly. In the past I've been trying to cut the stock harness up minimally but I think that is causing some of my issues since I've done some rather elaborate taps and splices to try and keep the stock wiring intact. I'm just about ready to start cutting off peices I'm not using to make my connections and completely replacing the stock headlight and taillight harness with relays and the like. How precious is the stock wiring harness on the first gen cars? In the various different things I've done to the car I've tried to keep the ablity to return it to stock if I or someone wanted to, this would be the first serious deviation from that strategy as I'd be cutting large sections and/or lots of connectors off of the wiring harness. Thoughts?

Lee Manufacturing can rebuilt your stock unit to custom specs. There are other vehicles that offer bolt in replacement with different feels and internal stops. Grand Cherokee comes to mind but that is not a route I wanted to go so I didn't really research it. Do a search I know RivNut has opined on this in the past.