1912Staver

That beaded edge is going to be tricky. It might come down to getting it as close as possible and using some filler. I like the aluminum filled stuff. More expensive than straight bondo, and a bit harder to shape/ sand but more durable. If you get the bead 80% - 90% close a bit of filler isn't going to hurt. Lead would be best but good results take a lot of practice, plus some serious health risks.

There is a good chance the Delco dash switch will have a stamped in date code. That might help date the bodywork.

I agree 100 %, I am in my 60's and I expect at least 1/2 my hammers and dollies are older than I am. A few relatively light , but for special shapes. Most are relatively heavy. I always keep an eagle eye out for good ones at swap meet's. The technology hasn't changed since the 1940's when many of the good tools were made. Snap on and Martin still make good ones but pretty pricy new. Unfortunately Dave I am up here in Western Canada behind the U.S. Customs COVID border wall. Missing all the Fall Washington State Swap Meets. It's starting to get painful.

You are at the point where you should remove all the paint on your work area, inside and out. A couple of hours with paint stripper. Keep abrasives to a absolute minimum, you don't want to remove metal or leave scratches. Coarse steel wool works well for the last residue from the stripper. From this point onward , hammer and dolly only, and as Gary points out above , light blows from the hammer and only directly on metal supported with the dolly from below. Also your hammer face and dolly surface should be as free from scratches as possible. They will transfer to the fender. Good metal men prepare their tools to a very smooth { almost polished } surface. And then carefully look after them in between use. No bumping against other tools or other rough handling. The curve of the dolly should always be a bit tighter than the curve of the fender. You don't want to form any creases or stretching. I have several different dolly's and over the length of a job will often use at least 4 or 5 of them to get just the right shape. You will get used to the sort of light blows and solid feel / sound of the correct use of the hammer and dolly. If anything the arm strength holding the dolly is greater than the correct impact of the hammer. Yes it is tiring , but you will be amazed with the results. It takes time and a bit of a knack but eventually you will wonder why anyone uses anything more than tiny amounts of bondo . Really good metal guys use almost nothing but glaze putty during the wet sanding, by the time the surface is ready for primer it is 99 44/100 a correctly shaped, smooth surface. Disclaimer, did this for a living for a few years in the 1980's and a few jobs a year for myself and friends since.

Not an Stutz expert, just a fan. But I always think of M's as having bolt on wheels ? Did some early cars still have knuckle drive Buffalo's ?

Despite the low resolution that's a remarkable shot of the Park fleet. That must have been quite a sale. I expect White had a lot of contacts within the Government after the war years. Talk about a catastrophic fire.

It should also have a similar , inner lever. Notice the inner serrations on the quadrant . Probably marine with the very short shaft length. Might be a " junk yard " automotive part that has been shortened at a later date so it can be used in a boat . It looks like a decent quality part , but as Wayne points out there were hundreds of similar but different parts made so figuring out exactly what make and model it was made for may be a very difficult job. That's assuming it was an adapted automotive part rather than made as a boat part.

I don't think they have dived, just not gone up at all for about 25 years. Great looking cars . But very slow for todays traffic. A decent MGA will run rings around a TC. And easier to live with in todays British Car parts supply world. MGA's are also quite a bit bigger inside, fit current sized people better than a TC. TC's are best if you are less than average height, weight. MGA's are slowly but steadily going up in price. All of the T series cars are pretty stationary in price, loosing ground compared to inflation. I am a previous TF owner , but also reasonably tall , just shy of 6'2". The TF was tight and the TC's I have driven in my mechanic days were very tight to the point of being quite uncomfortable. And 50 HP or so just isn't enough. Engine and gearbox parts are hard to find and pricy. Brakes are small and work hard. Also they are all R.H.D. so that puts many people off. A nice day and a slow country road they are a delight. In town traffic or faster driving their pre war design shows itself pretty quickly. Bring a Trailer has some great current sale price charts for post war MG's. Probably more data points than you are going to find anywhere else.

Unreal that they wanted to write off for minor damage. The grill is probably quite expensive , but the fenders look like something that a good metal man could repair, particularly the LH. side. Is there more serious damage that we can't see ?

Watch the wheels on these early Cougars. Almost every one I have seen has cracks from the corners of the punched holes that eventually spread to the face of the spokes. I would consider them " display only " . FOMOCO only used them for about a year or two before the design was changed to the ones seen on the Eliminator. With a CJ I expect the cracking would only be that much worse.

I always figure a TC and a TF are about equal . TD's are the ones that need a discount. I personally like TF's, but the last one I owned was swapped to early MGB engine , trans , rear end back in the later 1960's. It was actually a very nice car and a lot easier to live with than a T series powertrain. Most parts were available off the shelf locally. Long before my ownership, at least they did a very nice swap / conversion. No hack work at all, everything was pro quality . T series parts were hard to find and would need to be ordered from Moss or the U.K. even back then { late 1980's } . I was working as a mechanic in a British car shop and saw first hand the frustration of sourcing XP series engine and gearbox parts.

I don't think you would get it for $500.00. Check out what TC parts are selling for and you will see that is not a realistic figure. I expect around $3500.00 - $5000.00 as long as it is mostly complete. I just paid around $3000 for a pretty similar, barn find MGA and thought it was a pretty decent purchase. { previous owner paid almost $7,000.00 on E bad about 8 years ago } . The last project Morgan I encountered was a complete but somewhat rotted / rusty car , sold for $13,000 Canadian . Buyer got a great deal. Any I have seen since have been quite a bit more expensive and restored are not worth much more than a good MGA or T series car.

Reasonably sure its a TC so just post war. Fall of 1945 to fall of 1949. It could be a pre war TA or TB but they are quite rare in North America.

Lots of T series cars have been like this at one time. I agree the cost of restoration will most likely exceed the potential market price, but isn't that usually the case ? Unfortunately we can't all own Morgan +8's or even +4's. Nothing wrong with a TD or TF, and they are substantially cheaper than Morgan's. Actually better cars in some ways, better frame , better front suspension. Just not quite a good looking. TC's, like what I think this one is is are in design a pre war car so no improvement on a Morgan's chassis. As much class as a Morgan , but pretty small power compared to something like a +4 { TR3 or TR4 power }.

Pretty sure the chassis is a McLaughlin " light 6 " , Model H 62 or H 63, which was actually a Oakland rather than a Buick like was used by almost all McLaughlin's of this era. The spare engine is a Buick and does not match your chassis. It would have come from any of the Buick based McLaughlin's. The light 6's are somewhat less popular than the Buick based cars, however a few have been restored over the years. There was a very nice one in the Vancouver area about 10 years ago. But I believe it was sold to Europe . I am in the Vancouver area and own a McLaughlin 6-45. { 1918 , Buick based, 6 Cyl, Sport Touring }

Even the cheapest , least desirable HCCA car has a huge price obstacle. An enclosed trailer, at least $8,500.00 Canadian and probably closer to 12 G's in the real world. Plus a truck capable of towing it, these days what ? $35,000.00- to who knows, $85,000.00 ? Plus the space to store the trailer and truck in between events. Where I am { Suburban Canada } a shack on a small lot is around $ 1,000,000.00. Makes almost any hobby car a non workable situation , never mind one with significant space demands. Shop, truck, trailer. Even if you already own the house , you need to pony up $100,000.00 - $150,000.00 before you turn a wheel. Hobby car , shop , truck , trailer. And that's a " cheap " car. It makes a $10,000 0r $12 ,000 HCCA car an extremely expensive proposition compared to a mid 1930's or newer car that can be driven to and from an event. I love the brass cars as much as anyone, but after 35 years of beating my head against the cost wall it is beginning to sink home that I am probably never going to get there. A running, driving Brass car that is, my bitsa project cars will be with me until the end. And my leaky , lean to shed. Have you seen the price of wood and concrete lately ? Insane.

That red thing is beyond even my worst imagination.

Without knowing what they are scrapping might be tragic. Most will be worth little more than scrap, but the odd one may be much more valuable. But you need to post pictures and let the collective knowledge try to guide you.

Of course for those of us 60 + there is always plan B

Been up here a few times in younger years . Only in the late Summer mind you when most of the snow has melted. From the top it's a long drop. The easy way up is on the other side but still it's a pretty exposed climb up a chimney . I doubt I could do it these days. Even the trek to the base would wear me out. Black Tusk, near Whistler B.C.

Thanks Ivan. The wheels I have turned up so far have variations in the pin holes as you describe. It seems to me that the ones with the closed holes { Hayes } actually have one open hole and 5 closed holes, but my memory may be playing tricks. The open hole wheels have a slight variation as well. On some the turned up reinforcing ring around the outside of the pin hole is a continuous ridge. Like on Ken's white Premier, above. On other wheels the ridge has two spots where the raised ridge is cut away. The wheels in the original post Roamer have this feature.

Reminds me of something that happened years ago. I was riding my bike on a designated cycle path , at a pretty good clip, I was into cycling for fitness at that stage of my life. A man was standing a bit off the path enjoying the view. Just as I came close he turned and stepped right into my path, never looked my way at all. Needless to say I clobbered him....hard . Luckily, once we got each other picked up, sorted out and let the shock settle down a bit we realized neither of us were seriously injured. But very lucky. I was bruised, stiff and sore for days after, I am sure he was as well. A racing bike at speed is very quiet. I didn't have time even to yell at him to look out, things happen that fast.

I hear the noise as well , but only when they are reversing. They can be nearly silent when going forward. Perhaps U.S. regulations are different from Canada ? Lots of Tesla's and Leaf's around here.

I agree, but I have the same problem. Lack of space is a difficult nut to crack.

Hi Bob, a few makers produced pin drive , center lock wheels. In trying to put a set together I have gathered up a number of them with small differences. It would be great if someone could point out the identity of all the variations. Layden Butler seems to have as good an idea as anyone , but I haven't seen him on the forum for a while now.