Narve N

Anyone able to verify whether I have the correct wheel bolts for my 40 NewYorker? Something is not right as the wheels have enlarged bolt-holes and probably will need to be replaced, could be the bolts that are incorrect. Bottom line: I need wheels and possibly LH+RH bolts, anyone have in store? (I collect my stuff in WA, no need to worry about abroad shipping)

Apologies for late reply, found this in the WPC Club News: 40 Chrysler new computer generated dash for $300 plus mailing costs, photos available. Frank Kopec, 3618 Gillespie #110, Dallas TX 75219, 214-526-2086, fdkopec@aol.com The other source might have been an one preorder batch only that I bought a set of some 15 years ago.

At least two different sources have been reproducing those, do not know if still available.

Throwing in a few here. From L to R The RearDeck Handle of a 40 Chrysler which I believe is very similar to the one in Protugal. A 36 Plymouth Cvt UK build and branded as Chrysler, an original 33 Chrysler 2d Cvt Sedan, a 37 Plymouth built by Tücher in Switzerland, and the rears of a 37/38 Imperial Cvt Sd and a 40 Chrysler Cp with that specific handle. None of those have a rear deck similar to the POR car, leading me to believe that it might be a rearended car which some talented guy grafted a ca 1940 rear onto.

The RM auction of the Aalholm collection in Denmark back in 12 is known to have been one of the most overbid auctions in recent times. Massive turnout of especially Germans, Danes and Russians was reported. Nothing went cheap, and a lot of the items went at staggering high prices for untouched cars having sat for 50 years in a damp museum with a 60s quick paintjob covering some of the rust.

Capt Den, the car's previous owner had the engine overhauled and the car was also supposed to be generally restored according to auction companies jingles (auctioned 2-3 times) - and the renowned classic car dealer I bought it from. I have no idea who performed the work (no receipts included), however extended use of short cuts can be observed although nothing really major... Rusty, I have also owned another 40 New Yorker, here is a picture of that car partly showing the affected area: The Red circles display that this other car had one oil filter pipe in common with the oil pressure line, while the Green circle sort of indicate where the other line ends? 40 Chry NY oil filter piping.pdf

The company that did a restoration of the engine in my 1940, "forgot" to reinstall the oil filter and the car is now without any. Luckily I do have a spare with oil lines, but wonder which of the at least three different plugs visible in the picture is where the oil return line is to pass? The inlet I assume is siamese with the oil pressure line outlet. Anyone able to help out? Also, the car has a mysterious 5th shock absorber at the rear. Any one knowing the story about these, was this a common Mopar installment?

The subject is interesting as there are as many views as there as viewers. According to the 33 Parts manual, a Series 65 could be had with 4.3, 4.6 or 4.9 gears and others models range all the way between 3.58 and 5.2. My understanding has always been that the lighter cars (like a Roadster) has the tallest gears meaning that they were the (only) ones that could reach and maintain (equals cruising?) the Series claimed number as speed - like 65. A Roadster would then be the fastest car of a series. However, when Chrysler brought the slightly newer CG to Daytona the reached and maintained top speed differed only a fraction between the Sedan and the Roadster, keeping in mind that the CG Roadster cannot lower its windshield for lesser wind resistance: Anyone seen similar test results for any other vintage Mopars?

Thanks a lot for all the tips and especially to Ply33 for mentioning the coil as a possible culprit for investigation. Turned out my mechanic last year had identified the 85 year old original coil as past its usable life with falling out as it got hot, and he installed a fresh unmarked 6V alongside the senior to provide better sparks. He however kept the old coil wired in parallel in the primary circuit and this must have drained the primary voltage too much - or something like that. Anyhow, as a replacer and not a repairer I today installed a 30-year old Bosch 6V coil that had tested OK and this time kept the 85-year old original fully out of the circuit. The result was astonishing with no more annoying hiccups and misfiring, the car went straight to 50 mph before I had to ease off (60 kph zone with traffic). I also have my own Test Hill (Brooklands Race Track inspiration) where the car improved on my previous best of 30 mph with a new record of 34 mph. Having changed everything else at least twice and adjusted the carb about 10 times, I must say it pays to be persistent and especially to ask the AACA Forum!

Having fiddled with he carb for 2 hours I now am quite certain that the mixture etc adjustments does not affect the falling out at 3/4 to full throttle issue. I also tested a second condenser with no effect.

Most relevant electric components have been changed around at least once, the coil and condenser are generic 6V items that might not fit this car especially well or might have quality issues. I will try to enrichen the mixture as I know I did turn it down a lot previously to get away from soothing. Stay tuned.

Anyone with experience on the subject or having observed something similar? My Chrysler Ser 65 will run all day below 40 and easily hit 50, but refuses to run properly for any length of time above 40 with the engine misfiring plus backfiring and gradually falling out. Changing down to 2nd the same will occur at 25 mph. I have changed spark plugs and ignition parts back and forth and believe a faulty spark cannot be the cause and neither can find any failing fuel supply. Carb is a Carter BB1 (overhauled), could it be that many of these came from GM Trucks and were not designed to maintain "higher" RPM? Is there a way to tell whether the carb is GM Truck and not Mopar (Plymouth)?

Anyone have experience with using old Rear Outer Seals? I have tried three "fresh Old Stock" ones on my 1929 Series 65 so far but grease intrusion into brake drum persists. Would I have to go for modern equivalent and possibly also renew the Inner Seal?

You should check measurements of Series 66 compared to Series 65 and also 1929/30 DeSoto plus Plymouth. Would expect them all to be similar if not identical.

Here the same off a 40 NewY Conv, they do come as reproductions and were common for several years if you would look for a used one.

That last lead was fabulous and answered all my questions. As it never occurred to me (stupidly) to look at the Dodge forum for answers, this leads me to another thought: Why are there separate AACA pages for Dodge and the other Mopars? There are generally more corporate parts bin similarities between them then differing items. Wouldn't it have been better to have all-Mopar pre 50 and a second for all-Mopar post 50?

Appreciate the tip which probably is spot on. The resleeving guys have just omitted the washer totally in both repaired MCs and I did not dear to glow the old one enough to take it apart. I assess the problem is solved (at least when I get hold of the correct king-size washer). Thanks again.

For my big 1929 Series 65 project (2 cars) I have 2x resleeved MCs and one old "reusable as is" 80 year old MC. The reservoir bottom part of these MCs is threaded onto the piston part with a rather coarse thread but poses no problem with the old MC, however both the repaired ones act more like sieves and drip continuously. Anyone encountered this problem before, any known fix to it?

So bottom line the book is rubbish, just like the Dennis Adler "Chrysler" from 2000 (ISBN 0-7603-0695-8)? That other book clearly illustrate a non-Mopar enthusiastic author that doesn't know the brand, I just had to stop reading due to all the incorrect statements therein. But the price is fair and the pictures glossy so you can always flip though its non-representative selection of Mopars.

There is a company advertising manifold flanges for all kinds of obscure cars, that on my question did not see any problem doing the same for Chrysler L8s.

Here is my solution: 6 to 12V converter with some reverse wiring and an cigar lighter bundled into. Works with my TomTom (speedo on 29 Chrysler is actually showing 2% below real speed, more accurate than most moderns) and mobile phone charger. But such devices are also available across the counter I've heard.

Standard tires for a Series 65 Chrysler are 5.5x18, a very common and easily attainable size (Ford Model A?). Should be no problem. To crank you may also use a crow-bar, but with care..

We always love pictures especially of a "new" car, so please include yours too, here are my two S65Rs To your question: The gas gauge on the 29 Chryslers is the most fragile instrument on the car and rarely found in the "placed in lower row" configuration. A similar design that fits as the upper instrument (x-Plymouth?) with the glass upside-down is much more commonly found (I have two extras). It might be possible to combine internals of a working upper with the original, but one cheap fix is the following: If the wiring on the gas-gauge back is reveresed, the reading will be continously 1/2 full (you may guess how I know). Best of luck with reversing..

I need something like this manufactures tag (but with rounded corners) for my CAN made 1929 Chrysler. Anyone reproducing these, or might someone have a fair or better specimen to sell?

Surely there must be someone out there who did not recast the bearings during an overhaul?