Narve N

Having 3 Ser 65 Roadsters I can tell none of them had the standard issue Grey/Grey paint. One was Dark Green/probably Black fenders (now very Orange/Black), another was Blue on the body with unknown fenders/mouldings, and the 3rd certainly was Medium Blue with Black fenders. The "Medium" Blue is a nice color and I am trying to have it scanned to closely determine the best match. In the mean time I am viewing RAL standard paint No 5002 (Ultramarin) as a fair match.

As a previous owner of a 40 New Yorker I did notice the chromed handle to the left on the steering colomn, that indicate the car's got overdrive (a very nice feature) which the vendor is not aware of - confirming the impression that he is a dealer/just flipping the car without knowledge. That, plus the fact that the entire interior (exemt the dash which is good) appear reupholstered in a colour that doubtfully was available back in 39 (the carpet material is anyhow not correct), might indicate the vendor is just testing the market. And you should possibly take a game of hardball pricewise?

BTT, and adding some value. Here are two of the better tracings of my FEDCO-plate, on the right one I have my current best bets for what the code is. Anyone agree in a 9 and a 3? And also to comment on some Mopar myths: 1) Chrysler Historical does not have much data for 29 Chryslers, but certainly do have an excellent turnaround in answering. The following came from them after only a few days of my request for the possibility of combining the Engine Number with those FEDCO digits I could readily identify: "Hello Narve,<O:p></O:p> <O:p></O:p>Unfortunately, I do not think I am able to assist you with your request. The photograph you have sent is difficult to see the middle digits, as you have stated. I was not able to make out the missing numbers. The only records we could go by are the build cards. I checked our records and we do not have any build cards for 1929 with starting serial numbers in the “D’s”. These records do not exist within the company. Also, Chrysler did not save any shipping or delivery invoices." Comment: If the numbers most commonly found are correct; then the last batch of 25079 ea Series 65s made had a FEDCO starting with a D. And a definite pity if all those Build Cards are gone. 2) No traces whatsoever of a VIN stamped into the frame of Series 65s as far as I can see. I have thoroughly checked a good US-made frame (my "Special"), and looked at one Canadian without bodywork and the US-made one in question here.

Check if Steele or Metro mopulded might have it.

Symptoms seem similar to the ones I have had with my 55, which are not vapor-lock related. Renewed large size cables and overhauled starter plus a good (Optima) battery will help.

I am currently busy trying to trace the FEDCO plate, shows some promise although the family appears to be without any properly soft pencils. Intend to present scans of my traces in a few days time. If I was forced to come up with a suggestion I would say 8 upper and 7 lower center, but I could probably easily be persuaded to see a 7 and a 3..

Gentlemen, here are a snapshot of the VIN apparently issued by DMV Pennsylvania in 1997, and 4 better pics of the FEDCO needing forensic attention. I have also started to look at the FEDCO plates on my 2 other Series 65s and my Series 65 parts cars, and they are all worse than the one pictured here. I am amazed anyone can read anything from these obscure plates. As for FEDCO/VIN numbers stamped into the frame, I have checked one US and one CAN made frame without bodywork attached and there are no indications of any numbers close to the spring mounts.

And the reason for this sudden rush is that the car currently is titled (in Pennsylvania) with a replacement VIN (SF4997PA), which I assume was due to no-one being able to decrypt the FEDCO-number and there probably was no paperwork with the car. This fresh VIN the Norwegian DMV flatly refuses to accept as identification basis for a Norwegian Title - unless I can produce an additional autorised letter from DMV in PA stating their reason for issuing a replacement VIN and photo-proof that it still is the same car which they issued with that new VIN back in 1997. I know the Norw DMV is fully entitled to issue a title with a footnote about the reissued VIN, but why go for a simple solution? You might say those guys are proudly upholding the bureaucracy banner. I did not suspect anything like this happening when buying the car 12 years ago and paid less attention to either the replacement VIN or the FEDCO-No, until now when the car is fully restored and ready for the road - that is given the acceptance of the Norwegian DMV. So I am working along several lines; A) a very serious and formal complaint, finding the original VIN (i.e. FEDCO) either directly or through Chrysler Historical with the Engine Number, C) getting hold of PA DMV (very hard so far), So is anyone able to see any letters in the middle of that FEDCO plate? I have several more pictures, but cannot see anything in anyone. Narve N frustrated

I am continuing on this old thread, as my current big issue is closely related: I need forensic assistance with regards to this Series 65 FEDCO-Id; can anyone more seasoned than myself tell me what the two middle letters are? I get the two first and two last to be DP and 2C respectively, making the FEDCO-number something like DPxx2C (equals serial number 91xx22, a late Series 65)

I finally made the brakes work after bleeding two quarts of fluid through the system. They are however not as assertive as expected and I still suspect there to be some air in the rear axle brake tube where the high point is above the altitude of the RR wheel cylinder. Another issue could be a possible leak through the bleeding screw on one wheel, letting in small amounts of air when releasing the pedal, even if the screw is meticously closed for every pump of the brakes.

A steady flow of small steps for mankind has improved the drivability of this Series 65, best one yet was when I emptied the gas tank to seal off some small leaks from the pipework and found the fitting between tank and pipeline blocked by crude to 90%. Almost no need for the electric pump anymore, now the vacuum pump can keep up. Currently most annoying is the engine unwillingness to pull the car uphill, it acts almost like a newer car with defect vacuum advance - however the Ser 65 was never fitted with a vacuum. Anyone got suggestions to what I should look into?

Brakes were adjusted prior to bleeding, with a make-do method of yardstick before putting the drum on and then the external ones once more. Will try to see if I can seal the rebored MC today with silicon-based fluid gasket sealant.

The Ser 65 that had starting issues back in May, now runs - er - fairly well. However a new issue has appeared; that the pressure in my brake system has disappeared. No resistanse is felt in the system after I replaced the brakelight switch last week (with one from H-D, apparently capable of handling silicon fluid). The system otherwise compose of old components with new rubber internals after a hefty dose of polishing the bores, and did initially work quite good. Anyone got an idea why the pressure is gone? :confused: (I did bleed the brakes after the pressure switch change and still use mineral fluid) The main supect is the master cylinder and I do have a second MC with re-sleeved bore. This however was seeping brake fluid from the treaded joint between the two main MC parts when I tried it, something that has never happened with the non re-sleeved one. Is this a common issue, and can I use any type of sealant on the treads to stop the leak? :confused:

Currently starting is not much of a problem for my car. I have added an inline electric pump to top up what disappears from the carb and vacuum tank (Autovac to you UK guys) before starting from long idle (days/weeks). This I believe saves me from long churning of the starter. Looks like that is the only way these days with E05/E10 vaporising fuel and worse to come. Intend to take the car for a test drive tomorrow as weather is nice here in Norway too, however Mrs is rather reluctant to join.

Update: Tweaking the carb made the car run rather more satisfactory including without choke at all. I even hooked up a vacuum meter to see if I could fine tune it, but gained no variation in the vacuum by adjusting. However reducing the RPM without stalling made me aware about both ticking valves and another more alarming sound - a soft knocking. Should keep me busy for a while.

Horn twirls and air between front legs and gazelle body indicate a fullsize Imperial, however the twirls do not continue all around the horns as they should do, and as you mention they are fairly short. A 31 CD (and a CG) should have a base with # 314761 (the large base), indicating your base is newer - maybe for a CQ as Marty suggests. My current best guess would be a CQ base with a replica gazelle?

I do also have a Ball & Ball carb likely out of a Ser75, and a pair of Winfield updrafts. Anyone having experience with those as an alternate to the (31 Ply) BB-1?

Those who suggested 180 degrees out were right. It had passed through my mind initially and I did test it last week, but the aforementioned intermittent ignition fault fooled to me believe that turning the wires gave no result and I replaced them. In addition I have had a sort of a deja vu, as the mentioned reference picture actually displayed the last time I did it wrongly, as it was taken before I corrected it back in 2000. Anyhow the car now has 1500 ft under its own power, and I am wiggling the next issue: The engine needs a healthy dose of choke to run at all even when warm, and responds very little to throttle - only to activation of the accelerator pump. Is this an indication of a mysterious vacuum leak, or might there be adjustments to be made on the carb - dirt in the jet maybe?

I have paid substantially for the overhaul of this carb and do not believe a repeat should be necessary - yet.. However your attachment mentions 1/4 to 1-1/4 turn out for idle adjustment and I will check that. Is there any other adjustments as I am noticing a lower screw too (on bowl), is this a mixture screw?

Today: There is no woosh from cyl #1 at any point, however being a sidevalve I can spot the valves through the plug hole and more or less confirm that both valves are closed when piston #1 is on top and rotor pointing at #1 wire. The wire position also confirms with my photos of the engine last time it ran. So it is not 180 degrees out. Squirting oil into cylinders grossly rised the compression and fouled the plugs numerous times. Took off inspection covers from valvegear, everything seemed to work well, no apparent valves hanging in upper position. Then I discovered what could be described an intermittent fault (worst there is), apparently the breaker circuit sometimes shorts itself out. Took apart and cleaned then confirmed visually with spare points that nothing was missing and put back together. Then I again had spark, but only caughing and backfires from the engine. Final observation: My daughter operated the starter with me behind the car. Apparently it is igniting on one cylinder and puffed like a steam engine, this is however not enough to get the others running. Current theory: The overhauled carb (BB-1) is totally out of adjustment and very little if any gas reaches the cylinders. Anyone got suggestions for initial adjustment of a Carter BB-1?

Thank you guys for fresh ideas. I will try to confirm the "not 180 deg out", then remove all plugs and churn to check by hand for compression, before taking off covers to see if any valves are "just sitting still". Luckily my 8-year old daughter has promised me to help and stamp on the starter button when needed. Will also see if I can weld up a suitable adapter for proper compression check from an old spark plug and the already existing adapter for another plug thread. Finds will be posted.

As I have more or less run out of ideas, any inputs/suggestions to the following would be highly appreciated: My Ser 65 run well 11 years ago before a lenghty restoration (bodywork primarily, engine left as it was good..) Now the car however fails to start, despite confirmed spark on all 6 plugs, with fresh fuel present into overhauled carb and timing is set with pin into #6. I also tried two carbs, three coils, two condensers, starting fluid, 12V hotwiring from my sturdy old diesel M-B. The only results are random coughs, mostly backfiring through carb and crankcase ventilation. Have not yet tried to see if several valves could be hanging or checked the compression (need to make an adapter for the old sparkplug thread). Any further suggestions?

Hello, tried to e-mail you directly about the starter which I am interested in. Did you get that mail? regards, Narve 3x Series 65

If you are really quick, you might hang on to my current order of a set of 4 from a well reputed UK casting company (New Pro Foundries), doing the job in bronze at a fair cost (£40/piece?). They will be copied after a Verdone stainless one, which is a good start as bronze-castings crimp 3% - exactly the oversize of the Verdone ones. Note: The castings will then have to be machined for mounting holes including for those saddles which are nice but non-original, before being polished and chromed. Rather more effortless in bronze than in stainless. End result looks good, however the fine decorative grooves will have to be given extra attention by the polisher.

The FEDCO -codes translates via the following table: W P C H R Y S L E D 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 Which makes your car Fedco No: NP 186L to be the following Serial No: N11867, this corresponds well with Canadian-built cars being N10001 (NP000P) through N14394 (NP439R, indicating a total production of 4394 cars. My RHD Canadian-built Series 65 has e.g. serial number N12997 (orginally sold in the UK).