Narve N

Yes, you are probably dreaming - those two are Series 65s. Curiously enough there was no Series 72/75/77 Roadsters on Hemmings currently, but roughly 10 are listed annually I would say. The car below was initially advertised in NW USA and then in 2012 spotted on LeMC and has now been sold (2016) on after being fitted with some nice Winfield carburetors (as mentioned on this forum). As far back as 2005 I have seen other people looking to do what you are planning, refer copy of an old WPC News. Just be persistent and the right car will appear. As for rotten wood as all unrestored ones are equipped with, I quote Ray Jones saying that replacing the wood with metal tubing will both be sturdier and save a lot of weight.

Best way would be to track down one of the MM/LeM eligible cars that already has been converted and used for long-distance rallying. Must be at least 5 of them around used only for one trip by a careful owner. Some has however been converted so much that there is little left to call it a 1929 or 1930 anymore...

Fortunately I had a set of new bushings (from an elevator engine no less, match discovered by coincidence) that eliminated most of the slack. I have also investigated into materializing and turning back to dimension specification which also looks like an option if the pins are salvageable.

Egge had sold their stock of king pins some 20 years ago, guided me to Rare Parts (Stckton, CA) who almost had one I could use but it was out of stock. Will check Then and Now tomorrow and also the opportunity to build up the surface of the old ones by metallizing before turning doen to spec.

Appreciate the tips. Will check them out both.

Turned out the kits I had bought via eBay did not fit my Chrysler Series 65 and as the car is right now at a workshow with disassembled front suspension -- you might say that I am deparately seeking correct items. Either by application, or by size (7/8" diameter, 71/4" lenght). Having checked I do discover that the king pins are shared with only Series 75, 66, 70 and 77. No other brand is listed with the same number according to the Interchange Manuals I have.

According to the 25-33 Parts Book (with some element of interchange conversions) , you should be able to use a Series 65 Front Axle. Possibly you can put the Series 65 back-plates and drums etc onto your current Front Axle, but easiest way is to get hold of a Ser65 parts car. For the Rear Axle, an early S62 interchanges with Ser60, while the late S62 is unique. It is however still likely that the wheeltrack of a Ser65 is identical and you should be able to swap parts from a Ser65 at the rear too. Best of luck.

Olsen can supply complete gasket sets including fresh soft parts

BaronvonR is all correct: The 39/40 version can be driven as a 5-speed semi-automatic and give the added benefit of a proper 1st for a good get-away compared to the 41 where the 1st gear was non-selectable thanks to a blocking plate. Whatever happenes when you remove that plate remains to be told. Between OD/nonOD on 2nd and 3rd the 39/40 works well up and down via kick-down and can produce some non-statesmanlike acceleration (all things being relative). Understandable that the transmission issue is difficult, I at one stage had 38-39-41-46 transmissions laying in the garage and they all were different for added confusion.

Chryslers of this era had optional aluminimum higher compression heads (=silver paint). I believe the standard version might have been red (at least my very untouched 1940 had an all red engine with black accessories)

Rotten CGs and CLs Sedans are available, I even believe I know someone (in WA) who has a CG chassis. You definitely get a head start with a complete chassis to adapt your engine into.

Much appreciate inputs, thank you both. A thorough clean of the oil relief valve sounds like a sensible first step for a long Winter coming up.

Straight 40 weight, better oil pressure that the 20-50 I tried first.

My 1940 NewYorker is supposed to have an overhauled engine (auction company claim), but the oil pressure is steadily dropping when hot to below 20 lbs at idle and not more than 25-30 lbs at normal speeds. When cold the pressure is steady at 45 lbs. Is this a sign of a worn oil pump or something else wrong, or is it supposed to be like this? The car burns 1L oil every 1000km (A quart pr 600 miles) but does not smoke and will run all day at 60 mph+ and climb 1 in 4 gradients (pictured) .

I have aquired a set out of a 52 Crown Imperial to possibly put on a 52 Saratoga, can anyone confirm whether they will fit the drum brake spindles and that I will need larger bolt pattern wheels?

Having bought rubbers from both Steele and a Australian supplier, I would vote for the Aussie one as those where made of an apparently more durable blue material, and were a lot less expensive. Neither kit did fit well and I spent 20+ hours fitting each to resemble the orginals. Intruged by Doug McKay's idea on making different sets for various hardness and would love to follow that thread. Also curious about the high speed rear end, what ratio is it? My intention is to build both a 1929 Chrysler Special and possibly a LeMans replica if I find the time (have the cores so to speak) after finishing my 2x Series 65 Roadsters. Is Ray Jones still active by the way? As for the rear deck lock, that could be sourced from either Jay Astheimer or eBay, however be aware there are several that look the same but differ in lenght etc.

Have done the job on a 40, believe I got a full set of NOS which worked well. Possibly it was via Bernbaum they have more than cataloged.

A 29 would have (Delco Remy) Lovejoy shocks I believe. Possibly D-R bought Lovejoy at the time? Enclosed photos are of Series 65 shocks including one with a grease nipple into the lid. The rear shocks are almost impossible to refil by gravity when in car, but grease nipples still works well.

The heaviest you can find. I have tried grease with success after mounting nipples, supposedly an old hot rodding trick.

I have finally pulled the pan and identified a likely cause for leaks as the pan cork gaskets front and rear were hard and brittle. To my amazement I had spares from a gasket set by Olson, but also noted that gluing two layers of 3 mm cork together get you close to the prescribed 9&32" thickness. Will try this repair before I pull the rear main seal to investigate if there is a bad rope seal also..With engines I go with the old saying, "If it aint broke, don't fix it".

10W or Hydraulic Fluid for the Fluid Drive, 50W or GL-1 transmission oil for the trans and for the overdrive - is what I've heard. And I run my 40 as a manual too, toying around with the OD and kick-down to make it a 5-speed. As far as I know, the conversion of a 41 from 4- to 5-speed only requires removing a blocking plate that denies the 41's from using 1st gear of the standard transmission. Should improve acceleration significantly.

I tried Petronix on a 55 Chrysler 6V positive ground and never got it to work well. After 3 nights of hazzle, I returned to old-style dual points and haven't thought much about it.

Frame numbers are said to be found around spring mounts on the left hand side (often cited "in vicinity of left front spring rear hanger"). I have looked for such on 4 different Series 65 with no luck, but believe the older cars might be better equipped? A Series CG (1931) frame did have the engine number stamped in that area, however extremely faint and only discovered by chance. As fo Chrysler Historical; you should be able to get an overview if whether they might have anything in short time via e-mail, and then you have to submit a check (no electronics here) and solid evidence of ownership. My check lapsed while I tried to find more proof of the car being mine.. Generally their archive starts around 1931 (I believe) with some older stuff too, you should always ask if they might have. And the big end oil seals remain to be attended to, but that would have to be sorted this Spring.

Sasha39: Do you have more pages of that FEDCO- by- Month table? Love to see when my early Series 65s were made, the page you have displayed showed the late production ones. I now have confirmation that my Orange car is manufactured in May 29.

Ford Model A curtain rods will fit (did on my Roadster). If you live in areas of unstable weather, it pays to find someone experienced in old cars to do the curtain making. That way water is flowing outside the car and not into the interior..As for patterns there are as many combinations of canvas and plastic as there are cars running.