Narve N

You could also shop around for possible round blocks (anything Ford that could fit?). I did buy the Steele rectangular ones for my 29, they appeared very generic and needed lots of cutting to fit. Do also have an Australian set that was even worse for fit, but less pricey.

Francisco, the engine number you provided (P) is unique to a Series 65, whilst your serial-number does not say me anything. Several other features do however also indicate that your car is indeed a Series 65, fender-mounted spare wheels was an option for both the Ser 65 and 66. No need to worry what car you have, however does it run? Here is one of my three Series 65s (have been collecting these cars since 1977) which should be identical to your car for most of its features including wheels and front bumper (both 1 of 3 optional).

Your engine is the correct type (Series P). With regards to statistics on the car - engine etc, a lot can be obtained through google. However there is incorrect information to be found too... best of luck

There is very little to the evidence of being any difference visually between a Ser65 and a Ser 66, beisdes the obvious "66" text on the headlight bar for the latter. Apparently 66 would have a 3-spoke steering wheel while the 65 was 4-spoke, and a few early 66 did have pennon-style hood louvers and some late cars had the larger engine out of a Ser70. And since headlites have been a theme on this thread, they are same size although different but very few people could tell (I have both varieties). Twin sidemounts was optional on both 65 and 66.

I would reckon that $300 should more than enough to obtain a pair of decent although not concourse headlights of the correct type. They proper ones were made by C.M.Hall of the Depressed Beam design, and in my scrapbook I found the following note: Depressed Beam Headlight Lens w/opening 831/32”, total glass diameter 9 5/8” or 9 39/64”

Restoring and racing 50s fibreglass sportscars (non-GM) seem to be all the rage now, so that could be a good idea.

Attachments fixed

Second Keiser here, it must be a Series 65. Francisco you have a good looking car in a nice color combination. May I recommend you start looking for some larger bowl-shaped headlights as those on the car sticks out like sore thumbs? The originals are not expensive if you can find them. here are photos of 3 more, one Maroon advertised in Argentina back in 06, a Grey/Green German registration and the one that I have been fiddling with since 1979....

My 2 cents. A similar project, straight-8/323 with 38 Imperial transmission/OD (did do some homework beforehand, should be the most sturdy combo). And even an Edmunds intake to take twin Strombergs (found one modified for a boat engine). Everything put into the chassis of a Series 65 Chrysler with the radiator set 4" rearwards, and a body prop made out of foam for body mock-up and preparing to install 20" knock-off wheels. Then of course everything did take a lull, but I'll be back. Reckon using a narrow 20's/30's frame is easier for proper proportions than trying out with a 50's chassis. A double drop 31/32 would possibly be ideal?

The left rear body on my CAN made Roadster is 1 cm (3/8") longer than on the righthand side, whilst the US made car has identical sides. Does this come as any surprise, has anyone encountered this before? As pictures show the car is in a final bodywork process and the difference might lead to cutting up either the fender or inner fender/body profile to make things fit.

39 Hayes Coupes are rare, but they were built in many different Mopar series so a Dodge might be similar to an Imperial. I would however generally imagine that a New Yorker Hayes would have more or less standard issue New Yorker interior fittings - like partly seen on these pictures copied from an advertisement some years back - depicting an Imperial when the difference between standard wheelbase Imperial and New Yorkers was next to nothing:

To underline the facts: Attached are photos of my previous 1940 New Yorker Business Coupe, that according to various sources was one of 700 NY and Traveler 8-cyl 3-pass coupes made altogether. Since 1990 I have however just come around possibly one another Bus Cp - this one has been the only one mentioned in WPC Club lists, so the car might be rare. The same period I have registered roughly 10 6-pass Coupes (same body more seats). I assume the body is identical to a DeSoto, Dodge or Plymouth Coupe, only the front sheet metal differs. As for the car's performance: This car was closer to my 55 Chrysler than to my 29 in handling and ease of performance and an extremely reliable car. For starters, I bought it in Northern Illinois and then drove non-stop to Los Angeles with a friend sharing the drive - roughly 2500 miles in a mid-summer heat-wave. Once we managed to turn off the Illinois heater the inside comfort conditions did improve somewhat, althought the Fluid Drive emitted at least 2kW of heat continously.

Shimming would raise the compression but not mirror Red Head performance. The combustion chamber is different at least in the advertising material, apparently manufactured very closely to the principles of a certain Mr Ricardo of GBR who the story tells did (as Vauxhall) sue Chrysler for infringment? And that car appears almost too nice to drag into the woods VSCC style..

Do you have any pictures of your bumper ends? I've come across three different varieties of Ser 65 bumpers of which two are bolted together, the original end bolts are all straight with some dimples cut into their sides and at least one of the cars had wiring around the bolt to build up the slack which normally will be present. No rubber seen so far.

I paid in the region of $30 for a syntetic picnic carpet in plaid pattern (back in 95) from a interior chain store in Denmark (Jydsk for those in the regional know) and put it over the front (and only) seat of my 40 CNY Business Coupe. Guess a similar carpet in quality wool would be $100-150? On the enclosed pic it has slided down, but would otherwise cover the entire seat.

There is no in-depth restoration reference for a 1930 Chrysler restoration, for that you need to go for an oh-so-common Ford. However some good correspondance with Tim Wolfe (above) might very well get you along, he does have two very similar cars and is a helpful guy. As for replacing wood on these cars, that is just plain carpenting from measures taken. To my knowledge, no pattern wood parts exist. Best of luck, do upload some more pictures to keep the web-audience alerted.

Steele makes those too, but they fit lousy and are generally not worth the price. I made the ones I bought for my 65s fit after 10 mins of knife work on each, including cutting out for the vacuum line.

Having googled on Marty's recommendation I find that transmission oils Gl-1 through 4 indicate low or nil EP/hypoid additives and safe for old cars, whilst the GL-5 is tha nasty one that should only be used for gears so designated and free of any bronze or brass parts inside?

A company in TX does advertise their recasting services in WPC News, I believe I have tried to get in touch with them to get to know whether they have any patterns for 1929s as the references do not mention these cars specifically, and gave up when I did not get an initial reply. Others mention that this company might be challenging to trade with and should best be avoided? Modern technology should anyhow be able to reproduce whatever you need to have copied these days with 3D-scanning, casting and automated milling machines, as withnessed from the CL engine with reproduced block, head and manifold a German manufacturer had made for a Swiss customer some years back - or the 2012 production of Bugatti Royale wheels I did see in the UK. I did actually ask the Brits (New Pro Foundries) about reproduction heads like e.g. a 1929 Chrysler Red Head and they said the tooling cost would bring the price of the first one into 5-digits $, however substantially less for the next few.

Anyone having a viewpoint towards what oil to put into the trans of my 1929 Series 65? There is something about certain bearing materials being vulnerable to EP (estreme pressure 80-90 weight, the hypiod smelly one) transmission oils, but I believe that would be for slightly older cars. I have already put EP into the rear axle, but am slightly in doubt about the trans. An alternative would be 50-grade engine oil, whih I believe was specified for the transmission of my 1940 Chrysler. For the 29 the only words in the manual are "use Chrysler transmission oil".

I ran my 40 New Yorker for 21 years with plaid seat covers on, no added decay of the original seats that had started to fray and easy to tear off if I wanted to display the car.

My interpetation of using Orange on a 20s/30s car, is that bright colors like Orange would be very possible in the swinging 20s prior to to Oct 29 (seen a few apparently originally Orange, however no Mopars). After late 29 the ideal color is as mellow in various shades of Grey can be seen on typical 30 and 31 editions.

This is a portion of the dash for my "Medium Blue" Ser 65 Roadster, which I was able to rub down and polish. Color match fair in the pic, but not perfect. Anyhow a great color!

They look to be Stewart-Warner made (to one of 3 styles available in 29) and possibly mounted upside down both at front and rear

Agree. Also appears to be mostly original and untouched in the engine compartement, however missing the oil filter? Is this something to accompany the Ghia Limo?