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Narve N

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Everything posted by Narve N

  1. Hello, tried to e-mail you directly about the starter which I am interested in. Did you get that mail? regards, Narve 3x Series 65
  2. If you are really quick, you might hang on to my current order of a set of 4 from a well reputed UK casting company (New Pro Foundries), doing the job in bronze at a fair cost (£40/piece?). They will be copied after a Verdone stainless one, which is a good start as bronze-castings crimp 3% - exactly the oversize of the Verdone ones. Note: The castings will then have to be machined for mounting holes including for those saddles which are nice but non-original, before being polished and chromed. Rather more effortless in bronze than in stainless. End result looks good, however the fine decorative grooves will have to be given extra attention by the polisher.
  3. The FEDCO -codes translates via the following table: W P C H R Y S L E D 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 Which makes your car Fedco No: NP 186L to be the following Serial No: N11867, this corresponds well with Canadian-built cars being N10001 (NP000P) through N14394 (NP439R, indicating a total production of 4394 cars. My RHD Canadian-built Series 65 has e.g. serial number N12997 (orginally sold in the UK).
  4. I have not had any problems sourcing Firestone 5.50-18 either blackwall and whitewall from Coker, look good and a lot less costly than an Excelsior.
  5. Thanks to 2WW the 40/41s never were sold in Europe as new, and correspondingly there are no parts to be found here today. On the other hand, almost anything can be found in the US and prices are bearable thanks to the fact so few pepole understand how great these cars are. Truly overengineered. For your second question: ("Also, I'd like to add an LED third brake light, mounted inside the rear window. I cannot locate a slim, subtle strip in a 6 volt; everything seems to be 12 volt.") - Have you considered the tailight of a 46-48 with built-in 3rd brakelight? Refer photo:
  6. As Mike I am too looking for wind-wings hardware/brackets, is there anyone reproducing these? (Enclosed is a picture of freshly cast Top Rest Strips in bronze, made in the UK.)
  7. Rust and rotten woodwork are the two main areas of concern. The next is: Is the car complete, with the right parts? If the car has been restored in the past, it is likely that items that were hard to get (brightwork, etc) have been replaced with something "generic" (like from a Ford) that look alright until you park next to another S75. Mechanically they are well made and most parts can be sourced.
  8. New Yorker Business Coupe with Running Board delete option. If you look closely, the mounting holes for the shields are just visible on the rear fender.
  9. Hello, I have been aproached by another Norwegian who told me that his father sold his Series 65 Roadster from Norway to Canada back in 1965 and wonders whether the car still is around. He does have the car's serial number too, but does this story ring any bells with anyone just by description? Could be an amazing story if found. I assume that a car that old brought across the pond must have been bought as a collectors item, and cherished by whoever became the owner.
  10. Many thanks, those are excellent illustrations of what I am looking for. Just got hold of Marge Verdon too, so this is coming along. For another series 65 issue, see my new posting!
  11. Have a picture? Having the motor mounted on the outside sounds like opposite the normal..
  12. 41 Gravel Shields are being advertised in WPC News. Unfortunately they do not fit my 40.
  13. For Steve29, here is a full body picture. A few more years and it should be all done. If you look closely, there is a Series 75 Roadster body stacked up against the wall behind the orange Series 65. then I can focus more on this, which I have been dealing with since 1977:
  14. Marty, thanks for the good advice (as always). I have tried to reach the Verdones by e-mail, but it appears the e-mail address I've got is incorrect (worked in 2009). Anyone having a working phone-no or e-mail address? Your comment on the saddles is also appreciated, although not neccessarily entirely original using them makes sense for practicality.
  15. Hello, wondering whether anyone had samples of the wingnut/wingbolt combo used on these cars to secure the top to the windshield stanchions, that I could borrow to make new castings of? Also looking for the wingbolt locking the windshield to the stanchion a bit further down. In return I can offer fresh castings of the top to stanchion brackets themselves (#70998? + unknown) and the bracket securing the rearmounted spare (placed under the rumble seat, #92074), as I had too many made by mistake of these. See photo: Another question, referring the recent discussion about 1929 options: Is the Series 65 supposed to have so called Top Rest Saddles as trial fitted here, or only Top Rest Strips? I cannot find the saddles pictured on any original cars and believe it might be only used for later cars:
  16. Your wheels are the most common wires for 29 Series 65s delivered with 6 1/2" hubcaps. They are interchangable with the other style that had the bolts outside a smaller (5") hubcap, but not the wooden spoke wheels which had different drums. regards, Narve N 3x Series 65
  17. Don Narus has produced two books that details differences between 40 through 49 First Series. Believe he is self-publishing, and sometimes advertising on eBay. The Standard Catalogue of Chrysler offers some more detail than Denman (but less photos), otherwise the next step would be Parts Manuals I guess.
  18. Anyone know whether there is a supplier for cartridge filters hidden in a stock looking metal container for old Mopars? Need such for my 29 Chrysler Series 65, to which I believe original stuff is obsolete.
  19. Is there anyone remanufacturing the not too common rear engine/transmission mounts for 38 Imperial, or repairing old ones?
  20. Try Eaton springs in Michigan, believe they were the original manufacturers and have contact details on the Internet. Possibly you could apply regular machine bolts? BTW, saw you were asking another thread about the S65 bushings. These are completely different (rubber bushings, not bolts) than your S66. regards Narve N currently UK
  21. Rich, looks like you have managed all the engine auxillary brackets etc very well. Are you able to provide a detail pictures of how the gas pedal is set up and connected? That is next up on my job list, and I have no good clues about how it is done originally. regards, Narve N 29 S65 Roadster (2)
  22. Did you get my e-mail where I offered you a set recasts?
  23. Series 65 (and 75 I believe) have 6 bolted wheels with 14" drums and 18x5.5 tires. There are two different types of wire wheels used for 1929 as pictured with bolts either inside or outside the center-hub. 19" was used on Plymouths, which might be a possible source for the parts cars rear wheels? I also happen to know that 18" wire-wheels from a 32 Chevy looks the same, but upon trying to fit have about 1" small bolt spacing..
  24. Here comes the pictures: These two shows the early and late types of Series 65 ignition, early connects to a coil in the firewall and has only two fastening screws, late has three and the coil is integrated. The early has a slight hint of gold paint just outside what normally is exposed (and now rusty) This is a collection of instrument-facias with three repro facias supplied for the 65 at the bottom row, and two original above. The small instruments were different if mounted high or low on the board and ChryCorp in these years used all kinds of arrangements for at first glance identical instruments. As you can see, the vendor missed two out of three high/lows (might fit a Series 62 instead). The pic do to a lesser degree illustrate that the repro text is slightly blurred compared to the knifesharp texting in the originals (especially the very small print). This shows my restored dash with repro decal over the ignition key slot. I believe it is correct with white text as the repro has, but the lack of gloss in the repro sticks out like a sore thumb compared to the gloss in the originals. In lack of better info I painted the instrument panel semi-gloss black (more correctly, I used a spray-can "high-gloss" which is semi-gloss compared to its surroundings). The outer frame was chromed when I bought the car, correct finish is nickel-plated as all inner brightwork for 29 Chryslers. Those oval non-black portions of Mike's dash, must be from chafing by the instruments.
  25. Just had a £750 initial qoute for a new core and restoration of a 29 Series 65 radiator in the UK. Final prize when he sees how bad the rad is might be more, but it looks like a trip to the UK with the rad might save money.
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