Ray500

This is the 3M adhesive that looks good, but seems a little radical for a glass seal, but should work!

There's a gas tank for sale on ebay for 40/41 Lincoln.

Very good! Glad to help!

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Buick, Ford, Chrysler, Pontiac, Cadillac, Chevrolet, Oldsmobile. This site contains affiliate links to products. We may receive a commission for purchases made through these links. As an Amazon Associate this site earns a commission from qualifying purchases. Add your company to the Vintage Part Source Resource Directory Contact us for details info@vintagepartsource.com Tom's Auto Parts 13 Mad Bulldog Rd. Sabattus, ME 04280 207.375.4475 www.tomscarparts.com New and used body panels and components. Thomas Smith Fasteners Unit 2A, Swan Lane Hindley Green, Wigan, UK WN2 4HD www.thomassmithfasteners.com Fasteners, nuts, bolts, metric and imperial. Carbon steel, stainless, alloy, monel and incomol. MMS Stainless Steel 261 Nally Rd. Rydal, GA 30171 800.441.9451 www.mmsacc-stainless.com Automotive fasteners, hardware, nuts, bolts and washers. MSC Fasteners 713 Neal Street New Castle, PA 16101 724.698.7578 msc@mscfasteners.com www.mscfasteners.com Stainless bolts, nuts, clips and washers. 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East Coast Bolts 310 Senseny Geln Dr. Winchester, VA 22602 540.905.4812 vic@eastcoastbolts.net www.eastcoastbolts.com OEM bolts and fasteners for all cars from 1960 to present. Nacewicz Enterprises Box 544 Carleton, MI 48117 734.654.9450 www.fordbolts.com Nuts, bolts and washers for Ford Model A. Original Ford finish. Oak Bows 122 Ramsey Ave. Chambersburg, PA 17201 717.264.2602 Antique car convertible top bows, steam bent like the original. Vintage Part Source Parts and Services for Classic Cars, Collector Cars, Antique, Vintage and Muscle Cars Classic Car Insurance / Collector Car Financing / Classic Car Auction Schedule Home Chrome Plating Glass Instrument Repair Rubber Components Wheels Fuel Systems Transportation Engine Parts Suspension Electrical / Wiring Interior Garage Equipment Vintage Tires Exhaust Brakes Cooling/Heating Auction Calendar Insurance Financing

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Sounds like someone replaced the bleeder screws with a common screw. You can find them at most hardware stores or auto supplies for the correct screws. You can't properly bleed wheel cylinders with such a screw. And if you do it's a mess with brake fluid all over the floor. Clutch spring probably needs a new one, and Boos Harrel probably has them along with other supplies. Your's might have been broken and someone just tried to use a shorter version. I think you can find 6 volt fans if you're talking about putting them in front of the radiator for better cooling in idle and slow driving. Remember with 6 volts you don't have a lot of battery reserve and that additional load can run your battery down, especially if you haven't replaced your generator with an alternator. Remember the current at 6 volts is twice what it is with 12 volt devices for the same power consumption of your devices. This is also why we use LEDs where ever we can to cut consumption of battery power with the lighting. I am still waiting for a LED amber replacement lamp unit for the original 6 inch fog lamps on these cars. There are LED lamps less than 5 inches, but won't fit the housings.

You probably won't find anyone who either knows how to rebuild the coil or is interested in it. Skip uses new Ford coils to rebuild the coils. And remember these coils are made of electromagnet wiring......copper wire that is coated with a varnish for insulation just like in transformers.....and over time that can be compromised. All it takes is a shorted turn of the copper wiring inside the coil to make it malfunction. When the coil is heated the varnish can be compromised and literally you have 'shorted turns' within the coil. You can't fix that, only rebuild the coil with new wiring to restore the original function of the coil. As to getting lost in shipment, send it to Skip via FedEx insured and he'll rebuild it for you. Probably your distributor is working, but getting a correct working coil on it and testing things is the best way. If you still have trouble with the distributor you can then send it to Skip for rebuilding and calibration the same way you did the coil. You will be able to log onto FedEx.com and track your package to give you peace of mind where it is located in the system and it will tell you when it is delivered and who signed for it. This is the only way to get the distributor/coil working and your car running properly!

There's probably a bunch or at least some out there you can buy. Keep watching eBay as people hoard a lot of things that eventually get sold. A good metal worker can also reproduce one as they're a simple 'pliars' sort of tool.

Sending your distributor complete with coil and the side caps to someone who can repair them. I think Skip Haney in Florida does it, and perhaps Jake Fleming in Dallas who has a proper setup to test the distributors and calibrate them for proper operation. I got a coil rebuilt by Skip some time ago, and it works well. He actually guts the old coils inside the housing and replaces them with Ford coils and reseals them to get the hottest spark. Other issues with the distributor need to also be checked off the engine. I'd check the voltage on the coil terminals that comes from the 2 resistors under the dash. You need to connect a couple of clip wires to the distributor for remote testing as it's very close to the fan blade! The resistors are of a low Ohm value, but the voltage under load on each side of the coil where the condensers attach is important. Should be 3-4 volts with the engine running. You have to have the resistors to limit the voltage/current from the battery so you don't damage the coils. Your side plates where the plug wires attach also can be problematic. There was someone who was refurbishing them and making sure there is proper clearance between the rotor posts and the brass pins protruding from the plates for max spark transfer. Chris Harrel, (Boos-Harrel) one of the suppliers of parts might have some or could tell you who does the rebuilding. Also don't overlook putting new plug wires in the system as they also break down, and proper termination of the connectors on each end of the plug wires is very important for connectivity. If you rebuild the electrical system of the ignition you should return to proper working order!

With vehicles in this age group, all components of the driveline need verification as to condition. You never know if any of the parts have ever been changed or gone bad in more recent times. Lots of the cars never really got good service like basic oil and lube maintenance which can contribute to wear. Listening to noises might give an indication as to the area of the problem, but still full inspection of all bearings and parts in the drive line need attention as to their condition. We also in this day and age have few real mechanics that know these cars and can fix them. Most garages won't touch them as they say we can't get the parts which isn't true. Just takes a little innovation and some knowledge of who's got parts as listed on the club's website. One reason Model Ts were so popular they were easy to fix, and with so many millions of them people in today's market actually have reproduced parts or new ones to keep them on the road. Lincoln didn't get so lucky!

A few years ago I purchased all my wiring and looms from Rhode Island Wiring, great stuff and it fit and worked perfectly. I had previously talked to Narragagansett at one point, but I didn't like the attitudes or the service they didn't seem to offer. Also their prices were higher. If the owner died and no one qualified took over you don't know what you'll get. A lot of the suppliers of our parts are individuals dedicated to helping us, but when they're gone it's a much different story. Rhode Island Wiring has all the wiring diagrams to go with each wire loom they construct for each vehicle, making it easy with color codes on the wires to go to the correct places. Good luck with it!

Johnny Bond had a big hit on this song!

You'd need to tear down the tranny, remove and check the flywheel to inspect for wear. Flywheels warp over time and need to be reground so they are flat and the clutch fits tightly. Lots of moving parts in the driveline, no way to really know but to inspect and make sure everything is tight and properly lubed. Not an easy task as the rear end has to be removed to remove the transmission, and the engine pan removed to get the flywheel off. Ole Henry and his engineers didn't make these cars easy to work on! Differential could also have gear issues. I'd replace the engine mounts too and make sure the U joints are good. You're lucky to have a mechanic in your area that knows how to work on these old cars, the young ones at dealers haven't got a clue! They keep looking for the computer on them!

And get a new Optima 6 volt battery for the best results. They won't leak all over the battery shelf either like traditional lead-acid ones do. You can get a Lincoln script cover for the Optima to give it the look of a traditional battery. I also put an alternator which is housed in a traditional generator housing so it's very original looking but the battery will be charged at idle speeds unlike the old generators. Not exactly how it was originally but a lot safer to drive and better reliability of operation.

That appears to be a K.R. Wilson distributor tool for Ford V8s. The V12 units are different. I have a Lincoln one, and I also just got a copy of the 1994 magazine article written by Jake Fleming as to how to setup the distributors for the Lincoln V12s. I never did see the article on line anyplace, might be a copywrite issue. The club offers the old magazines at very reasonable prices to get the information. The instructions I got when I purchased my unit aren't very clear, written by typewriter and faded over the years. Someone actually was selling the tool instructions at one time on eBay.

You can get AW22 hydraulic fluid in 5 gallon barrels from Napa, we do for other hydraulic systems. We used to buy it from Pennzoil but I think it's the same fluid. But still small quantities I prefer Mobil 1 synthetic motor oil.

Actually Mobil One is a great hydraulic fluid. We use it in hydraulic gate systems and no problems! Probably will work in the old hydraulics of the old window or top cylinders. The biggest problem with any hydraulics is they all leak sooner or later. So good seals are a must to keep it under control!

Your check is on the way!

If you want $50.00 for all of them let me know where to send you a check! Thanks, Ray

It it's rusty and corroded internally loosening it up with penetrating oil like Blast will get it going, but it will continue to give trouble. Better to find a new one. There are suppliers listed on the club website, and they might have a replacement and less of a problem messing with old corrosion and such that is almost impossible to really fix reliably.

I'd leave old lead alone! You can certainly sand it if it's exposed, just make sure you have a proper respirator if your messing with it. Lead poisoning is more a problem for young children, but still not something you want to inhale. In the old days they heated lead like a plumber who sealed pipes to fill crack and holes in body work, then sanded it smooth and finish painting it. It was a hard lead but still lead. It never really adhered like Bondo does in more modern body work, and sometimes it would split away from the seams in body repair. It was dangerous to say the least, and hot lead is nothing to mess with! I've seen Bondo put over lead patches, sometimes that doesn't work if the lead isn't solid. Any paint/body work is hazardous to your breathing, it's always best to avoid as much of it as possible. Good luck!!

You must be referring to the rubber tubing that is clamped on the connection of the dash inside shaft control and the under the hood shaft that goes to the throttle and chock units. I'll try to take a photo of mine later and post it. Thanks, Ray

That cluster gauge assembly should come out as a unit if you can get the rear brackets off that hold it to the dash so you can remove the oil gauge. But you might also check the voltage at the gauge while it's mounted in the car if you can get to it. One side of the gauge is connected through a resistor to the battery, the other is going out to the sensor on the engine. You can ground the sensor lead at the gauge if you can get to it and observe the gauge to see if it's responsive. With battery voltage on one side and ground on the other side of the gauge....if it doesn't respond then the gauge is probably the problem. A mirror and flashlight looking up behind the dash might give you a clue as to removing the cluster. Looks like there are some add-on controls under the dash which might have to be removed temporarily till you can get he cluster out of the dash. Good luck!

The cluster of gauges is part of the speedometer unit if it's original. Most of these cars have a lot of stuff behind the dashboard, and little room to work on it just sticking your head up behind the dash and trying to work. On my '41 I found it easier to just pull out the speedometer cluster. I also replaced the wiring with new cabling with new exact wiring color code and wire covering that was as the original. On these vehicles the old wiring was rubber covered, and this many years later the rubber dries up, cracks, and exposes the wiring harness to shorts and a fire. So for safety and proper operations new wiring is essential to the restoration of your vehicle. It updates your wiring yet it's as if it were just as original. Nothing like reliable electrical circuits including lighting especially in these 6 volt systems. Some quick examination of the condition of the wiring in your vehicle including around the instrument cluster can help determine the best way to replace the oil pressure gauge. It will be easier if you can remove the cluster from the vehicle and replace the gauge on your work bench to do it properly.