Ray500

In looking back in this forum someone had mentioned that Earle O. Brown of Pennsylvania had stock on the diverters. He's also listed as a supplier on the Club's website. I had heard he was more recently in the hospital and not sure of his current situation. You might want to look him up and see what he has available.

Check with Chris Harrel at Boos Harrel Lincoln, he might have some. I think they appeared around the time of the '41 Lincolns, not sure. They divert coolant to the rear of the engine where it gets the hottest due to design of the block. Others might have some too. They are made of sheet brass and fit behind both water pumps. Even though I live in the tropics I use the thermostats as the engine needs to get to the correct temperature in order to be the most functional when running. Certainly if you are in snow country you will need them!

Check it out if you're looking for this type of material. It from a 1938 chassis probably off some juice brake conversion. Just passing it along! The guy's name is Greg and you can send a private message if you're logged onto Facebook!

Try Merv Adkins out in Pomona , Calif. as he has a big lot of old Lincolns and he might have some. He's listed on the club's site. His phone numbers are 909-980-1332 & 909-224-8562.

Earle O. Brown in Pennsylvania lists them on his website. Check it out!

Those are ordinary screws you can buy at most hardware stores. They look like either 1/4/20 or 5/16/ SAE oval head screws. Take an old one with you to verify it. Use a known nut to thread onto the old one so you'll know the correct size. You might have trouble finding a slotted screw, but even a phillips-head will be fine. You can also get them in stainless steel so they won't rust out in the weather!

And you have to watch that the diaphragm in the fuel pump isn't leaking gas into your crankcase. They do fail and that will thin your oil which is a problem. Newer cars solved that problem with electric fuel pumps, but the older engines with manual ones can be an issue. If your crankcase is increasing in volume you might have a fuel leak in the pump! It sits right on top of the oil intake. Time for a new fuel pump!

When I test, I just use a pressure gauge like the one you're using. Top Dead Center isn't the issue, it's that amount of pressure each cylinder will pump up with a few cycles of the engine. I put a little light oil in each cylinder as I run them to make sure there's some adhesion among the valves and the rings if the engine has been sitting for a while. The idea is when you remove a spark plug and attach the gauge you want a good seal. Give it a little extra turn with a wrench so there's no leaking in your gauge. That goes for both ends of the hose on the gauge. Then I crank it several times and watch for the highest reading on the gauge. Then I wait and watch to see if it bleeds off which could mean valve issues, or as stated before a bad leaking head gasket. If you stop the engine rotation past compression, a valve will open and bleed the air off. So do the test till you can stay in the compression cycle to get a good idea of what's going on with the valves. Once you've done all 12 cylinders, written down the results of each cylinder under test, you will get a bigger picture of any issues with compression. And don't overlook putting new head gaskets on the engine just in case there's a leak and retest all 12 cylinders. Make sure you get the copper head gaskets to properly reseal the heads. Make sure you use the recommended tightening of the head nuts with a with a torque wrench to insure proper head gasket installation. You will need to pull the heads and inspect what's going on and take photos of the exposed engine under the heads. Bottom line is if there is ANY low compression from your tests you're gonna need to do an overhaul if you expect the V12 to perform as originally intended. The dual gauge setup you're using, not sure. No reason to compare reading with #1 cylinder, just measure each cylinder and look at the values. They should be close unless there are wear problems. The last time I did mine they registered from 110-125 lbs. of compression. These engines aren't 'high compression', but they do need a goodly amount of compression with pistons and valves working properly. You could just do a valve job if the valves are a problem, but like any other engine with miles and wear, just grinding the valves will increase the pressure/vacuum in each cylinder and with worn piston rings the engine will suck oil from the crankcase and you'll have a nice oil burner! Let us hear how you do on your testing!

WoW! Long time, so it needs investigating. If it hasn't run in 10 years after a full overhaul then something must have happened. You're gonna have to pull the heads and see if the valves are seating properly. Do you remember any readings after the rebuild? What I use is a gauge that has a hose attached that screws directly where the spark plug is installed. That way you can get an accurate measurement. On the compression stroke it should show you the maximum pressure and hold unless one of the valves is leaking off if not seated properly. It should be over 100. Mine read if I remember about 110-125 # . You might want to investigate your gauge to make sure you're reading it accurately. High compression engines read a lot higher than that, but for the V12 that range should be sufficient. Also head gaskets can be a problem. I'm sure you can find out what's going on if you keep checking.

Doesn't look good, you might need an overhaul and valve job to get the compression up to where you can drive the car safely. They should be over 100. If you pull the heads you might find burnt valves/seats and such. Any idea the actual mileage on the engine? It will probably need new pistons also or at least new piston rings if the pistons are good. Need close examining. And the block really needs tanking/cleaning to check for any cracks. Probably needs some boring too. With that low compression it will never make power. Not sure who to recommend to get it overhauled, perhaps some members on the Club here might know of anyone in your area. Good luck with it! At least parts are available!

Let us know Chris how you're doing on the car. I don't personally like those battery disconnects, they tend to drop the voltage going to the starter. And you need a full 6 volts to crank it properly. In measuring the voltage on each side of such a disconnect switch you can see the drop when you're cranking the engine. I just drop the battery terminal connector if I'm going to store mine for a time, and just leave the battery on the trickle charger. All of my wiring is new from Rhode Island Wiring, the entire electrical system. Their colo-coded wires match the original wiring diagram making it easier to trace things out. A lot of that old wire had rubber covering under the cloth covering, and they stuff would dry up and break up and not safe to use.

Hi Chris......yes you can find 6 volt generators,they're the same as Ford used. Lincoln put different part numbers on them. If you've converted your electrical system to 12 volts, then you will need 12 volt battery and alternator. You can't just plug in a 12 volt battery and alternator as you will blow the lamps in your car and the gauges too! You have to put a resistor going to the gauges. There's nothing wrong with 6 volt ignitions, they have them for some 50+ years on vehicles. Yes, 12 volts is better but keeping your vehicle original is important too. You can run a 6 volt starter on 12 volts, it spins a lot faster and starts the engine quicker. But the rest of the electrical has to be converted. Your distributor can't handle (the coil) 12 volts directly. There are resistors on the module under the dash that feeds the distributors and drops the voltage to 3-4 volts for the distributor/coil. So if someone has converted your electrical to 12 volts you need to make sure what you're using in alternators and batteries. Alternators keep your battery charged with idle speeds of the engine, a generator needs higher rpm's to charge the battery. So it looks like your vehicle needs to be looked over to see what was done to it in the electrical system before you proceed with different components in restoring those functions. Just ask for some help locally where you're located, there are good mechanics out there who will help!

Alternators are available in 6 & 12 volts, they have builtin regulators so you don't need the external one on the firewall. If you want to keep it looking original there is an alternator built in the housing of an old generator you can purchase in different places. If you're having electrical trouble I would suggest finding a mechanic that does auto electric to find the issues. And yes, you're gonna need the in line fuel pump if you drive it! The Optima battery is by far the best, won't leak acid like the old ones do. You can get an empty battery housing to hide it to keep your car looking original. Make sure you use heavy cables for the starter also! 00 is probably the best. And just buy a new fuel booster pump if you're not sure the old one is any good! As to a leak that is using battery power, it's a matter of isolating what in your electrical system is still connected without the ignition being activated. You need to get a copy of the wiring diagram for your vehicle. Chris @ Boos Harrel Lincoln Parts can provide you with one. A good DC ammeter would also help to monitor the battery current that simply clamps around the battery cable lead that will show current draw. You will need to start disconnecting battery connections once you're setup as you monitor the battery supply to see what is activated that could run down your battery with everything turned off. Don't forget to have a trickle charger on your battery when the vehicle isn't in use. Also have your battery tested. After couple of years or so the start to break down. Those are the basics of the electrical systems for these cars. Good luck!

Yes, you have to remove the fan blade to get the clearance you need to get the radiator in or out of the vehicle. There are small bolts that hold the fan to the vibration damper on the front of the engine that have to be removed. You need the radiator back in the vehicle first and then attach the fan unit. And no, it's not that easy, but what on these engines is easy? If you had the hood removed and the engine on a hoist you could just drop it in fan attached if you have such a setup with the radiator already installed. I also like to cover the radiator core with some cardboard panels so I don't damage the core while working on the fan installation. Luckily you don't have to do all of this except every 100 years!

I wouldn't mess with the stabalizer bar, that's attached to the front suspension and you might have problems putting it back together taking that splice joint apart. You simply need to work the new lower radiator hoses onto the pumps. Put a little grease on them to make them slip on easier. Also put the hoses in some boiling water for a short time to limber 'em up so you can get them on the pumps. I remember when I replaced mine and I had hard time to stop the leaking. I used some very hearty hose clamps and then they worked fine. You might as well take the water pumps off if you can and send them to Skip Haney in Florida to rebuild them. You will have to sooner or later if they're old like most of them. And if you don't have the brass diverters that fit behind the water pumps to get better cooling to the rear of the engine, great time to get a set. Skip might have them, I think Chris Harrel has them at Boos Harrel Lincoln. Good luck with it!!!!

Chris Harrel @ Boos Harrel Lincoln Parts lists 36-39 fuel tanks for sale. Check it out!

Pulling out the OD control cable takes it out of Overdrive. There are some written articles about the full operations of the overdrive on this site that will be helpful. And yes if you remove the OD solenoid the seal will probably leak if you try to reinstall it with the old seal. Best to get one or two of them prior to removing it. It's small but necessary so the transmission fluid doesn't leak. Tom sent this link to check it out! https://www.ebay.com/itm/164778447694?fits=Year%3A1948|Submodel%3AContinental&hash=item265d8f934e:g:MWYAAOSwNHFgWse2

If you have a bad OD solenoid, there are places that fix or exchange them. Not cheap but available. Best to remove it from the OD and test it with a battery. (6 volts) Be careful if you're not familiar with it. And there is a small round seal that fits on the shaft of the solenoid before you mount it to keep the oil in the OD from leaking. There are several sources for those like Boos Harrel and other vendors. There are points inside the solenoid that act as hold-in during operations of the OD. Most techs with the diagram can figure it out. Also check the governor unit on the OD as part of the electrical control of the OD. All the wiring including the distributor wiring and the relay under the hood that controls the OD need to be checked and operation verified.

The best way is to have it actually gold plated, but of course that can be expensive. And you also have to be very careful with actual gold as it will rub off with the wrong kind of polishing! Get some estimates from different plate companies as they is the preferred method rather than trying to recreate the macoid paint process.

From 2013.... MarkG Junior Member Members 10 8 posts Posted July 19, 2013 Hello all! I own a '40 Lincoln-Zephyr Continental Cabriolet and we're TRYING to figure out the best way to restore the interior hardware's gold (macoid) trim. I came across this post:http://forums.aaca.org/f128/gold-macoid-substitute-maybe-309784.html ...but was wondering if you all had any "other insights". Thanks!

Try Merv Adkins in Pomona, CA. He has a bunch of old Lincolns, and he might have them. Great guy to do business with also! You can log onto the Lincoln Zephyr Owners Club website and his phone number is listed. His email is 'mervadkins@charter.net' to see if he has what you need. Other vendors on the club's listing might have them too!

Larry HosalukLincoln Zephyrs & V12 Motors 1936 - 1948 36m · This guy is on Facebook for contact. Hope he doesn't have to toss 'em out! Hopefully someone needs 'em! Last call on these 36/37 4dr doors. Going to scrap next week. Decent doors; bullet holes in e. A case of beer or a bottle of JD and they're yours. Located way the hell up north in Minnesota.

Yeah.....my 41 has a vent tube from the air cleaner that fits into the intake manifold. But the only other manifold connects are for the distributor and wiper motor. I think there were different versions of these setups. Some who have added PCV crankcase venting have drilled and threaded into the intake to accommodate the additional device. I was never tempted to add such to my engine, probably can't hurt as there are a lot of fumes in the oil pan.

No, windshield wiper is connected to the intake manifold. That hole could be for PCV valve for crankcase ventilation some add to their engines even though they didn't do that back in the day. It's below the throttle venturis of the carb, but shouldn't be open to suck air into the fuel delivery!