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Everything posted by Ray500

  1. Keith does a great job on the knobs. In the old days Ford and others made plastic knobs out of soy beans, and in time they deteriorate and the bugs eat them. The resins that Keith uses won't do that. Urethane is very stable. He made me a bunch of knobs for my 41 including the radio ones. Even if you found NOS ones, they're not near as good as the ones from Knobsoup! He can make any knob including the complete steering wheels.
  2. There was someone selling the fire wall insulation pads on eBay a while back, watch for them to reappear. You might google it and find some. Each car is different so choose carefully. Grommets are around, I think Steel Rubber might have some, and the parts dealers on the web site probably have them too. If you can get some good closeup photos of the firewall inside and outside of the vehicle that will help as there are different size grommets on the firewall.
  3. It will take a good machine shop some time to clean up the block and reconstruct it to run properly. Not sure but it looks like an expensive proposition but worth it if you can get it back together with proper parts.
  4. JC Whitney lists one that might work. Also Speedway Motors has some I think. Check it out! Distributor
  5. 1936-48 Lincoln V-12 rebuilt distributor assembly HB-12127 | eBay Here's an example of a rebuilt distributor for sale. Don't know if it's properly calibrated or not, and you still need rebuilt caps and the coil to go with it. Might be better to just have your own rebuilt and calibrated but it does give you a look at one. Also new spark plugs and wires will help insure the best operation with all of this!
  6. Probably your distributor needs rebuilding. There are remanufactured rotors and caps as they wear down and the gap between them and the plates on each side where the spark plug wires connect are out of tolerance. Distributor setup and repairs need experienced mechanics fixing them, as well as proper calibration and new points and condensers. The coil on top of the distributor also needs rebuilding. Skip Haney in Florida actually removes and cleans out the coils and replaces them with new Ford ignition coils for a nice hot spark. Old coils do break down over time as the varnish on the copper wiring gives way and the coils have turns shorts which doesn't allow full spark voltage to the plugs. Jake Fleming in Dallas has always done a good job on the distributors getting them working properly, they it's just a matter of a little 'plug and play for you to reinstall them. Good Luck!
  7. Good idea.....spend a few bucks and save yourself a lot of grief having to go back in and replace them later. Very important to properly oil the lifters as they can get very noisy from lack of lube. Engineers of that day did the best they could with the problematic V12 engines.
  8. You might check with Earle Brown who's contact information is on the club site as he has motor components. If you try to clean and repair them and they fail you have to tear it all down again which is a bummer. If replacement units are available that would be better. Boos Harrel might have them too. Good luck in your search!
  9. A good radio repairman could probably take the old connector off your speaker and mount it on the new one. In the grand scheme of things it's a lot more important to get a good sounding speaker and not worry about connecting the speaker cable to the new speaker. Wiring terminals work and you can also solder them for a great connection! And no one is going to see the speaker anyway so it's not very important!
  10. Ford won't have speakers for that old of a vehicle, but there are a lot of aftermarket speakers. Check with a local auto audio shop that installs sound systems in vehicles. Bigger magnets have better base response too.
  11. Actually if you can find a good auto upholstery shop in your area they can do a first class job if they know the correct materials to use and the correct patterns. There was a shop in Ohio some time ago that made the carpets for my 41 LZ. They had the exact pattern and color for the wool carpet and it fit well. My leather was done by a very qualified guy who knew how to make it look original. Even the headliner looks original and new. Those kits that LeBaron had were good I suppose, but the art of good upholstery takes a lot of experience if it's done properly. Shop around and see who's out there willing to take it on. Not cheap, but do it right once and you're set!
  12. This is the 3M adhesive that looks good, but seems a little radical for a glass seal, but should work!
  13. There's a gas tank for sale on ebay for 40/41 Lincoln.
  14. Very good! Glad to help!
  15. Restoration Specialties in PA might have them. 814-467-9842 Hard to Find Parts For Classic Cars Fastener Superstore 719 Rogers Street Downers Grove,IL 60515 866.688.2500 info@fastenersuperstore.com www.fastenersuperstore.com Automotive bolts, screws, washers, rivets Surplus Supply Company P O Box 15133 Akron,OH 44314 330.825.3900 www.surplussupply.com Classic car fenders, rocker panels, doors, floor pans, quarter panels Classic & Exotic 2032 Heide Troy,MI 48084 248.362.0113 parts@classicandexotic.com www.classicandexotic.com Classic, antique & vintage car window parts Mr. G's Enterprises 5613 Elliott Reeder Rd. Ft.Worth,TX 76117 817.831.3501 mrgs@mrgusa.com www.mrgusa.com Automotive fasteners, molding clips, interior screw kits, bumper bolts R J & L Automotive Fasteners PO Box 143 Penfield, NY 14526 rjlfast@gmail.com www.rjlautofasteners.com Body trim clips, moulding clips, wiring harness fasteners. Rocker King 804 Chicago Ave. Waukesha,WI 53188 262.549.9583 sonoma@execpc.com www.rockerking.com Classic and antique car rocker panels, and patch panels. Vintage Part Source Antique & Classic Car Body Panels, Exterior Trim Convertible Tops Fenders, hoods, doors, moldings, clips, emblems, hardware, nuts, bolts, screws, stainless hardware, floor pans, rust repair panels for antique and classic cars. Convertible tops for antique & classic cars. Mutual Screw & Supply 68 West Passaic St. Rochelle Park,NJ 07662 800.222.0324 bill@mutualscrew.com www.mutualscrew.com Automotive screws, bolts, fasteners, washers, stainless hardware The Nutty Company 135 Main Street Derby, CT 06418 sales@nutty.com www.nutty.com Automotive bolts, screws, rivets, stainless hardware Grain-It Technologies 334 Commerce Court Winter Haven, FL 33880 863.299.4494 www.woodgraining.com Tools & supplies for woodgraining classic and antique cars. Restoration Specialties P.O. Box 328 Windber,PA 15963 814.467.9842 info@restorationspecialties.com www.restorationspecialties.com Vintage car grommets, clips, fasteners, bumper bolts, finishing screws Vintage Vehicles N-1940 20th Drive Wautoma, WI 54982 920.787.2656 vintagevehicles@centurytel.net www.vintagevehicles.net Trim restoration, moldings, hubcaps, radiator shells repaired & polished Replica Plastics PO Box 1147 Dothan, AL 36302 800.873.5871 stone@ala.net www.replica-plastics.com Classic car quarter panel extensions Totally Stainless PO Box 3249 Gettysburg, PA 17325 800.767.4781 www.totallystainless.com Stainless bolt kits, stainless screws, stainless washers, stainless hardware Gardner Westcott Company 10110 Six Mile Rd. Northville, MI 48167 800.897.5025 www.gardner-westcott.com Bolts, screws, washers, stainless, complete car bolt kits. Body Shop Price 78 Golden Street Suite A Meriden, CT 06450 866.235.0010 www.bodyshopprice.com Vintage car body panels, fenders, hoods, bumpers, rocker panels, door skins. Buick, Ford, Chrysler, Pontiac, Cadillac, Chevrolet, Oldsmobile. This site contains affiliate links to products. We may receive a commission for purchases made through these links. As an Amazon Associate this site earns a commission from qualifying purchases. Add your company to the Vintage Part Source Resource Directory Contact us for details info@vintagepartsource.com Tom's Auto Parts 13 Mad Bulldog Rd. Sabattus, ME 04280 207.375.4475 www.tomscarparts.com New and used body panels and components. Thomas Smith Fasteners Unit 2A, Swan Lane Hindley Green, Wigan, UK WN2 4HD www.thomassmithfasteners.com Fasteners, nuts, bolts, metric and imperial. Carbon steel, stainless, alloy, monel and incomol. MMS Stainless Steel 261 Nally Rd. Rydal, GA 30171 800.441.9451 www.mmsacc-stainless.com Automotive fasteners, hardware, nuts, bolts and washers. MSC Fasteners 713 Neal Street New Castle, PA 16101 724.698.7578 msc@mscfasteners.com www.mscfasteners.com Stainless bolts, nuts, clips and washers. SMS Auto Restoration 1320 Route 9 Champlain, NY 12919 800.989.6660 info@sms-auto.com www.sms-auto.com Car hood hinge rebuilding service. Classic 2 Current Fabrication 24530 Capitol St. Redford, MI 48339 734.718.1124 sales@c2cfabrication.com www.c2cfabrication.com Rust repair panels, floor pans, quarter panels, rocker panels. Classic Enterprises Box 92 Barron, WI 54812 715.537.5422 www.classicent.com Reproduction floor pans, rocker panels, trunk pans, rust patch panels. Vintage Sheetmetal P O Box 7392 Kensington, CT 06037 860.595.8423 www.vintagesheetmetal.net Antique car Body panel fabrication. Classic Fabrication 715 15th Avenue South Unit G Surfside Beach, SC 29575 843.650.0385 www.classicfabrication.com Floor pans, rockers & rust repair panels for antique and classic cars. Emblemagic P.O. Box 420 Grand River, OH 44045 440.209.0792 www.emblemagic.com Reproduction classic car emblems, emblem restoration. Stainless Bits 4521 Pine Lane Green Bay, WI 54313 847.975.3000 andylit@stainlessbits.com www.stainlessbits.com Automobile Stainless hardware Auto-Tech Plastics 164 Grand Avenue Mount Clemens, MI 48043 800.447.8410 sales@flexchrome.com www.flexchrome.com Flex Chrome trim & moldings for classic & muscle cars. Tops Online 13820 Saticoy Street Panorama, CA 91402 888.803.8505 customerservice@topsonline.com www.topsonline.com Classic car convertible tops. Larry Dennis Company 6121 Midway Road Ft. Worth, TX 76117 800.772.7542 sales@larrydennis.com www.larrydennis.com Convertible tops for classic cars. Antique Auto Parts Sales 40 Iron Mountain West Hartford, KY 42347 270.298.7684 www.aapsales.com Reproduction fenders, floor pans, rocker panels and rust patch panels. M & T Manufacturing 30 Hopkins Lane South Kingstown, RI 02879 800.999.2892 support@mtmfg.com www.convertibletopguys.com Classic car convertible tops. 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East Coast Bolts 310 Senseny Geln Dr. Winchester, VA 22602 540.905.4812 vic@eastcoastbolts.net www.eastcoastbolts.com OEM bolts and fasteners for all cars from 1960 to present. Nacewicz Enterprises Box 544 Carleton, MI 48117 734.654.9450 www.fordbolts.com Nuts, bolts and washers for Ford Model A. Original Ford finish. Oak Bows 122 Ramsey Ave. Chambersburg, PA 17201 717.264.2602 Antique car convertible top bows, steam bent like the original. Vintage Part Source Parts and Services for Classic Cars, Collector Cars, Antique, Vintage and Muscle Cars Classic Car Insurance / Collector Car Financing / Classic Car Auction Schedule Home Chrome Plating Glass Instrument Repair Rubber Components Wheels Fuel Systems Transportation Engine Parts Suspension Electrical / Wiring Interior Garage Equipment Vintage Tires Exhaust Brakes Cooling/Heating Auction Calendar Insurance Financing
  16. Try Merv....... © Copyright 2008 - 2018 Lincoln-Zephyr Owners Club Send mail to lzoc.org@Gmail.com with questions or comments about this web site. Thanks for visiting. MERV ADKINS 9655 HIDDEN FARM ROAD RANCHO CUCAMONGA, CA 91737 (909) 980-1332 1936-1948 LINCOLN-ZEPHYR/CONTINENTAL PARTS * Engines * Transmissions * Skirts * Grilles * Instruments * Rust Free Sheetmetal * Engine Rebuild Kits * Motor Mounts * Frame Mounts * Transmission Mounts * King Pins * Drag Links * Wheels * Bumpers * Carburetors * Generators * Starters Everything from nuts and bolts to complete cars. Too many parts to list; call me for those hard to find parts! HOME Who Are We? Membership Events Classifieds Merchandise Sources & Tech Info Photo Gallery Forum
  17. Sounds like someone replaced the bleeder screws with a common screw. You can find them at most hardware stores or auto supplies for the correct screws. You can't properly bleed wheel cylinders with such a screw. And if you do it's a mess with brake fluid all over the floor. Clutch spring probably needs a new one, and Boos Harrel probably has them along with other supplies. Your's might have been broken and someone just tried to use a shorter version. I think you can find 6 volt fans if you're talking about putting them in front of the radiator for better cooling in idle and slow driving. Remember with 6 volts you don't have a lot of battery reserve and that additional load can run your battery down, especially if you haven't replaced your generator with an alternator. Remember the current at 6 volts is twice what it is with 12 volt devices for the same power consumption of your devices. This is also why we use LEDs where ever we can to cut consumption of battery power with the lighting. I am still waiting for a LED amber replacement lamp unit for the original 6 inch fog lamps on these cars. There are LED lamps less than 5 inches, but won't fit the housings.
  18. You probably won't find anyone who either knows how to rebuild the coil or is interested in it. Skip uses new Ford coils to rebuild the coils. And remember these coils are made of electromagnet wiring......copper wire that is coated with a varnish for insulation just like in transformers.....and over time that can be compromised. All it takes is a shorted turn of the copper wiring inside the coil to make it malfunction. When the coil is heated the varnish can be compromised and literally you have 'shorted turns' within the coil. You can't fix that, only rebuild the coil with new wiring to restore the original function of the coil. As to getting lost in shipment, send it to Skip via FedEx insured and he'll rebuild it for you. Probably your distributor is working, but getting a correct working coil on it and testing things is the best way. If you still have trouble with the distributor you can then send it to Skip for rebuilding and calibration the same way you did the coil. You will be able to log onto FedEx.com and track your package to give you peace of mind where it is located in the system and it will tell you when it is delivered and who signed for it. This is the only way to get the distributor/coil working and your car running properly!
  19. There's probably a bunch or at least some out there you can buy. Keep watching eBay as people hoard a lot of things that eventually get sold. A good metal worker can also reproduce one as they're a simple 'pliars' sort of tool.
  20. Sending your distributor complete with coil and the side caps to someone who can repair them. I think Skip Haney in Florida does it, and perhaps Jake Fleming in Dallas who has a proper setup to test the distributors and calibrate them for proper operation. I got a coil rebuilt by Skip some time ago, and it works well. He actually guts the old coils inside the housing and replaces them with Ford coils and reseals them to get the hottest spark. Other issues with the distributor need to also be checked off the engine. I'd check the voltage on the coil terminals that comes from the 2 resistors under the dash. You need to connect a couple of clip wires to the distributor for remote testing as it's very close to the fan blade! The resistors are of a low Ohm value, but the voltage under load on each side of the coil where the condensers attach is important. Should be 3-4 volts with the engine running. You have to have the resistors to limit the voltage/current from the battery so you don't damage the coils. Your side plates where the plug wires attach also can be problematic. There was someone who was refurbishing them and making sure there is proper clearance between the rotor posts and the brass pins protruding from the plates for max spark transfer. Chris Harrel, (Boos-Harrel) one of the suppliers of parts might have some or could tell you who does the rebuilding. Also don't overlook putting new plug wires in the system as they also break down, and proper termination of the connectors on each end of the plug wires is very important for connectivity. If you rebuild the electrical system of the ignition you should return to proper working order!
  21. With vehicles in this age group, all components of the driveline need verification as to condition. You never know if any of the parts have ever been changed or gone bad in more recent times. Lots of the cars never really got good service like basic oil and lube maintenance which can contribute to wear. Listening to noises might give an indication as to the area of the problem, but still full inspection of all bearings and parts in the drive line need attention as to their condition. We also in this day and age have few real mechanics that know these cars and can fix them. Most garages won't touch them as they say we can't get the parts which isn't true. Just takes a little innovation and some knowledge of who's got parts as listed on the club's website. One reason Model Ts were so popular they were easy to fix, and with so many millions of them people in today's market actually have reproduced parts or new ones to keep them on the road. Lincoln didn't get so lucky!
  22. A few years ago I purchased all my wiring and looms from Rhode Island Wiring, great stuff and it fit and worked perfectly. I had previously talked to Narragagansett at one point, but I didn't like the attitudes or the service they didn't seem to offer. Also their prices were higher. If the owner died and no one qualified took over you don't know what you'll get. A lot of the suppliers of our parts are individuals dedicated to helping us, but when they're gone it's a much different story. Rhode Island Wiring has all the wiring diagrams to go with each wire loom they construct for each vehicle, making it easy with color codes on the wires to go to the correct places. Good luck with it!
  23. Johnny Bond had a big hit on this song!
  24. You'd need to tear down the tranny, remove and check the flywheel to inspect for wear. Flywheels warp over time and need to be reground so they are flat and the clutch fits tightly. Lots of moving parts in the driveline, no way to really know but to inspect and make sure everything is tight and properly lubed. Not an easy task as the rear end has to be removed to remove the transmission, and the engine pan removed to get the flywheel off. Ole Henry and his engineers didn't make these cars easy to work on! Differential could also have gear issues. I'd replace the engine mounts too and make sure the U joints are good. You're lucky to have a mechanic in your area that knows how to work on these old cars, the young ones at dealers haven't got a clue! They keep looking for the computer on them!
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