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Everything posted by Ray500

  1. Yes, the rear and wishbone need to be out of the way. This isn't a small job, so you want to address any and all issues from the flywheel to the rear end of the vehicle while you have it apart. Flywheels also need to be 'trued' which means ground in a machine shop so the clutch plate fits firmly against it like you want your brake shoes to fit the drums for maximum contact. It should be done on a lift as it doesn't work well in a 'shade-tree' environment. The transmission and OD if you have one should be gone through completely while they're out of the vehicle to resolve any issues. When I did mine the rear end/differential with the wheels was removed to allow the transmission and OD unit space to remove them and reinstall them. Good luck!
  2. You have to remove the driveshaft and usually the transmission and OD unit if you have one and block the rear of the engine to support it while the transmission is out. Then with the transmission and OD out of the vehicle it's easier to replace the seals wherever needed. Might be a good time to replace the clutch face, throwout bearing since you have it apart! When I did mine a supplier sold me a Ford clutch plate which is smaller so be sure to get the Lincoln one. Lots of work...Good Luck!
  3. All large files like videos have to be uploaded through a service like Vimeo and they provide a link for the receiver to look at it. Anything over 25 MB won't be allowed on most browsers like Yahoo and such. Vimeo is free basically. Internet can be a bummer sometimes!
  4. That's the same as my '41 filter. The elements when you change the oil is available from Advance Auto Parts. Their number for the original filter (P34) is L30034 and the last price I paid was less than $7.00 each. I buy them by the case as it's cheaper on the freight. As to hydraulic or solid lifters, the connection is different but mine is hydraulic and no particular reason to change that. If you change your oil regularly even if you don't drive much the lifters should be fine. Ford always wanted an oil change every 1000 miles. I do use Mobil 1 motor oil and it works well.
  5. Beautiful car from the era of real automobiles prior to the Japanese invasion of tOyotas and such! The real problem is finding a parking place for it!
  6. Tough job at times, best to send it to Skip Haney in Florida for a proper rebuild with correct replacement bearings and part as well as seals. He guarantees his work too!
  7. I have a AM/FM board I built up into a 41 radio cabinet. Those boards are from a company in Florida that builds retro radios for old cars. They are all 12 volts, so I use a 6-12 volt converter, and a small battery on the unit (12 Volts/7Ah) to smooth out the voltage/current hidden under the actual battery under the hood.. I modified the dial indicator for adding FM to the radio. Looks original and plays well, with a couple of Sony sub woofers under the front seat, and a couple of small speakers under the dash. If you don't look too close you don't notice. I still have some other '41 radios I haven't restored yet and one I did restore before I configured the AM/FM so I can reinstall it to be fully AM original! If you're gonna crank good tunes you need the power, and this configured radio puts out 185 watts if you are hard of hearing! Not as loud as the 10,000 watt blasters the kids use, but sufficient!
  8. My 41 Zephyr Coupe I had to weigh in order to get a license plate. It weighed some 3800 pounds on a public scale.
  9. Skip actually replaces the coils inside the housing which is the best way. After so many years the insulation on the copper wire will break down and you'll get internal shorts that are difficult to find. When the coil arches internally you don't know it, but you get a much smaller spark to the ignition. Best to send them to him and let him clean them out and replace the copper windings for a better operation. The ballast resistors on the small panel under the dash are important to make sure you're getting 3-4 VDC to each terminal of the coil when the engine is running. The resistors drop the voltage from the battery of 6 volts DC and allow the coil and points to run the ignition. You don't want a full 6 volts on the coil, not necessary. You also want at least 3-4 volts for proper operation. Get or borrow a reliable digital volt meter and check it once you've gotten the rebuilt coil installed. And don't forget the condensers, they can cause poor operation too. Most don't have capacitor testers, so just get a new pair and not worry about it. And watch that fan blade as it's close quarters to put your hands around the coil. Test leads with alligator clips are the best to move the testing away from the fan.
  10. Try Merv Atkins...he's got a lot of things and alot of old cars! © Copyright 2008 - 2018 Lincoln-Zephyr Owners Club Send mail to lzoc.org@Gmail.com with questions or comments about this web site. Thanks for visiting. MERV ADKINS 9655 HIDDEN FARM ROAD RANCHO CUCAMONGA, CA 91737 (909) 980-1332 1936-1948 LINCOLN-ZEPHYR/CONTINENTAL PARTS * Engines * Transmissions * Skirts * Grilles * Instruments * Rust Free Sheetmetal * Engine Rebuild Kits * Motor Mounts * Frame Mounts * Transmission Mounts * King Pins * Drag Links * Wheels * Bumpers * Carburetors * Generators * Starters Everything from nuts and bolts to complete cars. Too many parts to list; call me for those hard to find parts! HOME Who Are We? Membership Events Classifieds Merchandise Sources & Tech Info Photo Gallery Forum
  11. Yes D the modification of putting in a PCV valve is a good idea on these old engines. And of course all 'singing' should be left to stations on the radio, not the tranny! I do need to put PCV valve in my 41 mine which I will get to once I have my new brakes installed.
  12. That's from the 1930s when they used mechanical cables from the control head to the radio chassis usually mounted on the inside firewall. Sears and others in the day made thee universal radios to fit any car as most cars of that day didn't have radios. They were considered a luxury and expensive for the time. They certainly can be restored to operate, but remember they're 6 volt units, and Ford products of that time had a positive ground so you have to be careful installing it in any vehicle. Just my thoughts!
  13. I use Mobil 1 oil as it works well in the V12. Seems to be less sludge and it stays clear for a long time. Remember, in the old days they recommended changing oil every 1000 miles. I also change the filter cartridge at the same time I change the oil. I like the synthetic oil and use it in my modern vehicles too. Just my preference. Since I live in a tropical climate I don't have to chase the viscosity numbers from freezing to boiling in the environment.
  14. I did some research before I bought wiring looms. At the time Narragansett was having some issues, don't remember exactly. Rhode Island Wire has large rolls of wire of different gauges with proper color coding. They told me they have the exact patterns and they actually make the looms as originally provided with a machine binding around the conductors. I think you can request samples from either one to see what you like. The main thing is to have the proper color code on each wire so you know where to connect it on each end. Remember there are differences in the vehicles from types of bodies and features. Some don't have overdrive, but if you do you need certain wiring to make it work. Good luck!
  15. Your best bet is Rhode Island Wiring to get the complete wiring harnesses to keep the vehicle original. They use the correct wire size for each circuit with original color codes making it easy to install and connect each component. There are other providers of wiring, but I found them very reliable and helpful to get the right harnesses and once installed everything works! Call them @ (401) 789-1955 and discuss it with them. They also have the wiring diagram for your vehicle. Things like the battery cables you can get from sources listed in the club's site, and certainly Boos Harrel Lincoln can provide such. Correct ground battery cable is important and to properly attach, as well as the 00 ga. main battery cable connecting to the starter solenoid. When I purchased my '41 it had a battery disconnect switch, but I removed it as theer was a fractional voltage drop using it and with 6 volt systems you need every volt to operate the vehicle. I also suggest you install an alternator to keep the battery charged. Powergen has them and other distributors do that are built into the original generator case to make them authentic. Alternators will charge the battery to full at idle speeds, the old generators won't. Good luck with it all!
  16. You really should replace the clear plastic round disc that is the speed indicator that is clouding the odometer. Keith Lee at Knobsoup has those discs, and they're not hard to replace to make the speedometer usable. Hope that helps!
  17. Skip Haney will need to rebuild these before they're installed on the engine. He's in Florida and does the best job of rebuilding, at about $250.00 each. His number is 941-637-6698.
  18. I've found Ford substitutions to be problematic with vendors who think their Ford parts will work on Lincolns. There are interchangeable parts, but not many. With so few real original parts still available from any source one has to be careful what they order and try to make work. Like all other vehicles there were a lot of after market manufacturers back in the old days that made parts to fit Lincolns, some worked and some didn't. It's strictly 'Buyer beware' when it comes to correct parts. Ebay is a big offender too allowing the posting..."Fits a 19__ Lincoln"!
  19. Try Chris Harrel @ Boos Harrel Lincoln, contact information on the LCOC website as he as a lot of body parts. Also Merv Adkins in California.
  20. Definitely I would recommend replacing the MC with a dual. And use proportional valves to balance front to rear stopping pressures. You will need to install remote reservoirs under the hood to keep the MC filled as you won't be able to fill it under the floor as the old one did. Speedway and Summit racing have parts to fix this. I'm going to install a Wilwood dual cylinder with remote reservoirs and a 7 inch vacuum assist for much better braking. Those reservoirs can be mounted with a kit under the hood so you can keep 'em full of brake fluid. Speedway can help you with the setup.
  21. The voltage at the connection point on top of the distributor/coil should read about 2-3 VDC using a 6 volt battery on each side running. If it's not there then the resistors on the regulator board mounted on the firewall inside the car might have to be changed. You can also measure the voltage on each side of the resistors and make sure you have a fully charged battery. Wiring or corrosion could be an issue, with mine I replaced the entire wiring harness some time back to eliminate any wiring issues and because it was 70+ years old. Don't forget to make sure you have solid good grounds from the battery to the engine/body.
  22. You might want to send your distributor to Jake Fleming down in Dallas to make sure it's working properly. I do like Skip Haney in Florida for rebuilding with new coils in the ignition coil. You can't accurately time the engine with the distributor on the the motor. Lots of variables that have to be investigated one by one to find the problem. Vacuum advance is important in the distributor with increase in RPMs, Jake can test the distributor for that. I would also trace each of the 12 plug wires to make sure they are connected properly, it's sometimes easy to get them mixed up as they are very tightly crowded in the distributor area. I have labels on mine that plug into the distributor plates. (labeled white shrink tubing from my label machine) Keep looking, you'll find the problem. As Btwatoe mentioned it does sound like you're running on 6 cylinders!
  23. There is room under the floor for the booster to mount to the MC. As to the vacuum line, it can run under the floor/firewall up to the manifold to connect. Someone a while back posted a lot of photos of their conversion process. We can look for them so that it might help with the installation. The main reason I am working on it is the safety aspect of the single MC brake system. If you somehow loose brake pressure, the only thing you have is to gear it down and hope the emergency brake works. With a dual MC you do have at least 2 other wheels to stop you. With the remote reservoirs it's easy to keep the fluid topped off. I will be using proportioning valves also to even out the braking from front to rear, with front taking a little more of the braking efforts.
  24. I'm in the process of converting my 41 Zephyr to a dual master cylinder. I am using one from Speedway Motors..., and not the Mustang. You need remote reservoirs as the MC is under the floor of the vehicle to fill it. I am changing out the brake lines with stainless steel prefabbed ones from Classic Tubing. All other brake components such as wheel cylinders need to be replaced too. I am going to be using a vacuum assist on the master cylinder (7inch) unit to make the brakes work better. Once it's all together it should be fine. You should change the King Pins if any wear as well as steering linkage parts since you've gone that far. Takes some efforts, but well worth it for a much better/safer braking system in today's worst traffic on the planet!
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