Ray500

Check with Chris Harrel @ Boos Harrel Lincoln on line. Also check with the automotive product companies on line like JEGS or Summit racing as they probably have something that will work. Even the old Ford parts houses probably have some stuff as they did use such in some of their cars. Originally some of those earlier air cleaners used motor oil bath inside the filter, but that is messy. As long as it's not a paper product you're probably good. If you get a lot of backfires that might be a problem with the misfires blowing back through the carb!

If you can do it without having to remove the entire steering column, that would be a lot better. Yours looks like a 36 or 37. My 41 I had to remove the entire steering gearbox to repair it as the main shaft that goes up to steering wheel is part of the gearbox. You need to car raised up very high to get it out and back in again from under the chassis. I had purchased a 'rebuilt' one from a supplier that is now out of business, but they didn't do it correctly. Once I got it out of the vehicle I had to do some special shimming to get the proper 'play' in the gearbox under the car. It might be a Saginaw unit, not sure. There is a company I think it's name is Lores that advertises in Hemmings and on line too that rebuilds them too. I would try to fix it in your case in the car without removing the steering column!

If you look at the setup from the supplier, you can see there are 2 hoses for the dual master cylinder, single on single M/C. The hose was quite large I thought, and there's a small tank that is mounted under the hook on the firewall that you keep filled with brake fluid. But it is all plastic! They do that mainly on the dual cylinder M/C units as when you mount it the hole in the floor of the driver's side won't line up! So you can only fill it from the remote reservoir. There are kits to mount the M/C on the firewall under the hood, but that now requires a lot of mods so your brake pedal can operate the M/C now on the firewall. Then you could put a power assist unit on the M/C for better braking. Or get Toyota! Smile!

I was tempted to when I redid the brakes on my '41, but you have to run plastic hoses/reservoir from the master cylinder to the engine compartment and it doesn't line up with the hole in the floor for refilling the reservoir for the updated master cylinders. It's strictly aftermarket and not sure how well it works. Keeping things original is by far the best way to hold the value of the vehicles. Also tempting was to install a Mustang dual master cylinder, but in the long run probably not a good idea unless the brake system has issues and one is afraid of losing the entire hydraulic braking limited to one chamber. Then there's the new disc brake system (Mustang) and power booster provided you have enough vacuum on the engine. This just goes on and on!

These are typical generator mounts for Ford products!

Hi Craig, can you tell me who does stainless steel lining of the '41 Lincoln master cylinders? Thanks, Ray

Hi Bill, I have cleaned the ignition contacts on my '41 Zephyr, and polished the brass material of the contacts with success. The wiper has to be cleaned too. Once I clean them, I do like to put a thin coat of silicon lube on them to keep the corrosion from forming. I use a silicon grease I use in electronic systems as a heat sink between the transistors and their heat sink. They make a white silicon grease which works probably better for heat sink operations, but I prefer the clear silicon grease for contacts, just a small amount. You can put new brass rivets with some efforts, but I'd try just cleaning up the ones you have first. there are some used and NOS ones out there for replacements, not easy to find as is most of the parts for 80+ yo vehicles! It would have been great if ole Henry had used hermetically sealed switches, but that would have made them last until we had only EV vehicles!

Glad it's up and running! Still do your maintenance on it, those machines do demand attention at times!

Yes, capacitors is the same as condensers. In my electronics background we usually refer to them as capacitors. Same thing! Problem with the Lincoln condensers is they are configured in such a way that they don't have wire leads and connect directly to the coil terminals. You can rig other types, but getting those packaged properly look the best! Also try to verify if they are fresh, condensers will age and go bad in time, at least they will change value too. I do have a capacitor tester that will rate them properly. Not too critical, but having enough capacitance is important in the operation of the ignition. Weak ones are not good!

On the V12 setup there are resistors between 6 volts provided by the ignition switch. You can measure the voltage that is provided at the coil. (2 terminals on it) Depending on where the distributor points are in their position you'll either get 6 volts or about 3 volts on each. Under load (with the points on either side in a grounding position) you'll get the lower voltage as the coil is pulling current through the ignition to one side of the coil. The coil is a dual coil, one for 6 different plugs during operations. You can bump the starter while you're measuring the voltage and see the alternate voltages. And the spark plug plates on the sides of the distributor should be the same. You can remove the distributor, label the plug wire's positions, and then you can get it open and up close to see how the rotor is "hitting" each of the 12 pins of the plug plates internally. Like I mentioned before there should be a clearance of about .010" (ten-thousandth) to fire properly. If all of that is good, then you should get a blue spark at each spark plug as the engine is firing attempting to start. Check those things first to see where you are with the distributor setup. It that appears to be working, you could have fuel issues. If I have fire on the plugs but it won't start, then I use a can of starting fluid you can get at an automotive store that will give the engine some temporary ignition sprayed down the carb. This is a good place to start, and hopefully you can get it running again!

Time to do some basic troubleshooting! First of all get a voltmeter and check the battery to see what it's putting out under load. (When you're trying to start the engine!) Batteries do go bad, 6 volt units do too! I use an Optima 6 volt battery in my '41. It doesn't leak acid to corrode things like the regular lead acid ones. I have a cover for it to make it look like the original battery. Then tackle the distributor as you must have seen some problems with it. BTW if you look closely at the posts on the side plates of the distributor and watch the rotor go by to fire them, there should be something close to .010 clearance which is close! You have to pull the distributor to observe this action. There is someone who rebuilds those plates and rotors you can find on line at times. Don't think you'll find and new ones! And you need 3-4 vdc on the coil terminals for it to run properly. Sounds like you need an overhaul of your ignition if your battery is working. Skip Haney in Florida does the coil rebuilding, and he can also check out your distributor. Capacitors on each side of the coil need to be good also as they are what does the firing of the coil when triggered. You can get new ones from Chris Harrel @ Boos Harrel Lincoln in Ohio!

If the engine is seized or in bad shape, I would contact H&H Rebuilders in California as they can rebuild it for you completely to run properly. You would need to remove the engine-have a garage do it-crate it and they can fix it for you. Sitting for over 60 years it probably won't run with all the ignition and carb issues among other concerns. It's a nice car and worth fixing properly for future value!

Most professional glass shops have seals for all sorts of glass. Take it to some and get an estimate. As to other seals around vent or door glass you can find them on line. Steel Rubber is one company that has some, just do some diligence and you'll find them. Also if you replace any glass to keep the vehicle original in concept you need to find outfits who will put the FoMoCo label on the glass. Don't just use plain glass. I did that a few years ago on my '41 Lincoln Coupe and it worked out well. Still have the original windshield and rear glass. Keeps the vehicle's values up!

Finding V12 engine parts certainly isn't easy now days, but they are out there. Before Earle Brown passed away some time ago he had lots of those parts. Not sure if his family still has those parts. Try googling them and see. Also call Chris Harrel at Boos Harrel Lincoln in Ohio to see what he might have. And don't forget H & H in California that rebuilds those engines! Good luck!

Heads are one thing, but the overheating on the V12's is due to the design of the block and the coolant doesn't get get fully through the water jackets as quickly as necessary. The diverters channel more coolant to the rear of the engine for better cooling. They are worth the investment to keep it as cool as possible. Some run without the thermostats in the top hoses of the radiator, but at times you need that to get the engine working properly at the proper temperature. 200 degrees isn't unreasonable, and with good circulation you should be fine with the diverters installed!!

I think Chris Harrel @ Boos Harrel Lincoln has those diverter plates you can buy. It's important they are put in properly if they're gonna work to get the coolant to the rear of the engine for cooling!

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I've had problems with the accelerator pumps in carbs that have been rebuilt. Just make sure who ever rebuilds one that they replace the diaphragm on it, some look like little cup washers. 4 barrel carbs are the worst problem with it. But they get spongy over time and use in the gas and they don't function. Good acceleration requires the carb working uninterrupted when you need to without hesitation!

Time to send the carb to a specialist. I think they list them in the LCOC website. Accelerator pump......clogged orifices....too much gas being dumped in the engine at some point, that component needs full verification and the correct needle valves installed. The V12 is a low compression engine, and you can't just dump too much fuel into it. Could also be an ignition issue and the timing might be off some. Seems like an acceleration problem, but if it's not the carb then you need to have the other components like the distributor. Hope you can find a qualified mechanic for this, there aren't many left these days with the experiences of the V12! Remember another potential part of the problem, and t's the cutout relay for the overdrive if it has one. It momentarily shorts the distributor out when the overdrive is engaged. If that's malfunctioning could be the problem. Just stay out of OD and check it out! Luckily the old Fords had these issues at times and they might be able to help! Let us know what you find as the problem!

As to using oversized rod bearings on these engines, at least you're not dealing with a high-compression engine that puts a lot more pressure on the bearings. Reducing the journal sizes on the cranks, you can induce a weakness if the engine is run at excessive speeds. Oil pressure is an issue, and usually a higher capacity oil pump can help in this regard. Throughout history when these engines were overhauled it was always convenient to just grind the crankshaft and put in oversized bearings. It generally worked without issues but then these engines weren't exposed to stress other than daily operation. If you're ever taken an engine apart that has thrown bearings you can see the damage they can do. Hope the overhauls continue to work as we want to keep these gorgeous vehicles on the roads for a long time!

Most of those cranks are about the same, there are some differences in the rear seals from early to later with them as they tend to leak oil if you don't get them installed exactly. Ford had that problem too. There are some newer cranks round, but not easy to find them. Another issue is proper oil pressure. If everything is line up it should be fine. I hope the new bearings fix it for you! Good luck!!!

That's a problem with the journals that far out! Unless you can find oversized ones and have them machined, and even that might not work. Perhaps finding another block might also be the answer, and that's never an easy task dealing with used motors of unknown condition. I have heard of machine shops adding onto the cranks for fit, but not sure if that would work or be worthwhile. Problem is that welding onto hardened steel like cranks doesn't always work. And casting new bearings oversized can be an expensive venture if anyone would want to try. Problem is most people rely on finding ones they can fit, but there will always come a time when somethings are just not available anymore in routine places. You might take one of the bearings to a couple of good machinists and get some ideas what they can do to get you back up and running. Sounds like the best solution is to find another engine and just replace it. One source that says they have up to .060 rod bearings might help you. if you look on eBay, seller old.parts has them he says. The item number is 143189909561. Might work! Good luck!