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Ray500

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Everything posted by Ray500

  1. You might want to replace any defective wiring/looms in your vehicle to minimize any wiring issues such as shorts or poor connections. I replaced mine with new wiring from Rhode Island Wiring which supplies the exact cable links, connectors on the ends with the correct color codes as on the wiring diagram. It's cheap insurance as those old wires after 70+ years do deteriorate and new wiring makes your vehicle look like new. That way you don't have to start putting fuses where there are circuit breakers. Good wiring especially in the battery connections is so important to good operation of your vehicle!
  2. In my earlier days of auto radio repairing, I would take the vibrators apart and file the points, adjust them and get a little more life out of the vibrator. Eventually they have to be replaced. We started seeing solid state versions of vibrators in the 60s. They should be used to update radios. Also the rectifier and buffer capacitors need replacing. The buffer capacitors do short and will blow the line fuse. Antique Radio Supply in Mesa, AZ. sells the parts if you're brave enough to attempt the repairs.
  3. Hey guys......just got this note from a guy who sells on eBay, but he's just gotten a huge assortment of early K.R. Wilson tools. He says too many to mention, so if you're looking for some give him a call. Contact... Tim Hill 519-322-0320 He told me to alert the club as to his inventory. His email is : tjhillone@gmail.comRare opportunity to get what you need! Tell him I sent you! Ray
  4. Hi Keith...I probably have one of these I can send you. I'll check my parts and see what I have! Thanks! Ray
  5. With my '41 Zephyr Custom Coupe, I have an Optima battery. I keep it on a trickle charge when the car isn't driven. I also installed an alternator which loeryoks like the original generator it will charge the battery at idle. With a fully charged battery I test the starter which turns over the engine nicely. I put my digital voltmeter on the battery, and my digital amp clamp on meter on the starter cable after the solenoid. I use the button on the bottom of the solenoid to run the starter without actually starting the engine.....just want to observe the voltage and current draw. I use 00 ga. cables for minimal voltage loss. Under test the battery will drop from about 6.4 VDC to about 5.6 VDC and the amp meter shows about 208 amps draw with just cranking the starter. That seems normal, hard to find actual spec information in most literature. If you can get yours to do this, you should be fine. There are always issues with the starter being in good shape, cables and connections proper, battery fully charged. You can also test the voltage at the starter under test and it should be the same as on the battery terminals. If not it might be the solenoid is bad or cable too small or poor connections. These quick diagnosis checks should reveal the problems. Also the starter might have to be re-positioned on it's mounting as it can drag if not centered against the flywheel properly. Hope this helps!!
  6. First of all this great car has been modified without the original engine and who know what else. Listed a Chevy transmission. Not worth more than $25K if that! Some people think because something is old they can get a fortune for it. In the classic Lincoln realm it's condition and originality that determines the price as well as the rarity. There is always some junk on eBay where people want to get rich. It's always "buyer be aware"!
  7. I had Skip redo one of my coils, he completely guts and cleans out the housing, installs new coils...I think they're Ford.....and reseals it. The coil puts out a higher voltage to fire the plugs making the engine run better. Jake does a great job on rebuilding and calibrating the distributors. Jake does repair coils, but he doesn't replace the windings internally. His calibrations are "right on". Regardless of having a great coil and calibrated distributor, there are other elements in the ignition system you have to pay attention to when working on your V12. There are correct voltages at the coil that must be maintained, proper plug wiring and connections if you want it to work properly. I have a KR Wilson distributor tool, but sometimes it doesn't calibrate exactly, who knows. Jake uses an oscilloscope in his setup and it's more accurate. So before you condemn anything on the V12 or supporters, you need to verify all components associated with the ignition. It's not hard, those V12s are simple engines.
  8. I used a ‘pickle fork’ to remove the links on my ’41 shocks, then sent them to a company in New York for rebuilding. Came back great and put one links from Vintage Auto Warehouse in Maryland. Worked great after I painted them and reinstalled all 4. Pickle fork is a prybar you can get at a tool or auto supply. Don’t forget to remove the nuts before using the fork.
  9. Years ago I had a '57 Ford that I had installed an ARA A/C unit under the dash. The compressor ran all the time, it had a "Robitrol" valve to control the freon. Not sure what happened to that company, but it worked well at the time. The under dash unit was sorta big, but blowing cold air on a hot day you don't mind. These units would probably work on our 6 volt vehicles too. I might put one on my 41 Zephry if I can find the right one and it's not too much of an installation to alter my original vehicle.
  10. You'd be surprised how successful a couple of rounds of buckshot from your 12ga. is in getting his attention! Just a couple of shots in the air to let 'em know you mean business. Also if you don't have a shotgun you get his license plate number and file a hit and run report. He damaged your vehicle on purpose and left the scene. You might get a new paint job out of it!
  11. I got mine last year when my transmission/overdrive was being repaired in the transmission shop. Now it's back there for an issue that is now resolved with the reverse shifter now going fully into reverse which was inhibited by the wrong reverse fork in the tranny. Someone had put in a 56H one instead of the 16H. Replacing with the correct one did the trick. Some hacks that work on these cars use whatever they have or can get without regard to the correct parts and correct operations. Now while it's in the shop the rear and front spring yoke vibration mounts....like motor mounts...are being replaced as the rear ones came apart when the rearend was removed to get the transmission out. The front ones will be replaced along with the front motor mounts. I get most of these parts from Alan at Vintage Auto Warehouse, some from Boos Harell or where I can find them. Also putting in a correct clutch disc and pressure plate from Lincoln original instead of the Chinese made ones made for Ford. Lincoln clutch disc has 8 springs, Ford has 6 which is supposed to make shifting smoother. And with the flywheel being resurfaced it should drive like a new one!
  12. I too have looked for my father's 1939 Lincoln Zephyr 3 window coupe. It was sold in 1945 as a down payment on a small house by my mother. I do have the gentleman's name who bought it, but of course he's dead now. Haven't looked up all his relatives, but after that amount of time I doubt anyone really remembers what he might have done with it. In Texas they destroyed all old vehicle records before 1980, so no luck in trying to track it down by the license plate, and I don't have the VIN number either. So in today's world I just enjoy working with my '41 Zephyr and remember how much the '39 meant to my father who was a Lincoln Mercury mechanic too!
  13. There are a lot of greedy people that unrealistic expectations about these cars and their parts. They think we're supid too, but we know the value of them. Therer does seem to be a surge in interest and pricing for all sorts of vintage autos. Even when you have a speedo cluster like this one it has to be conditioned and brought up to standards which is expensive. The best answer to the person trying to sell this is to ignore him.
  14. Try Dick in So Cal...his email is Schu805@aol.com. He does rebuild transmissions.
  15. If you want to get it done right without trying to be mess with a timing fixture, you send it to Jake Fleming in Dallas, Texas as he's the best expert to get it right and just put it on the car! You will find him on the www.lzoc.org website under Sources. I have a timing fixture, still playing with it as the instructions are so faint they'rehardly readible. But really:cool: it's supposed to be one of the accurate methods to time a distributor for any of the early Fords or Lincolns. Jake can also rebuild your coil if necessary. I'd suggest sending him the entire distributor with the coil and let him work on it. Good Luck!
  16. Jake's contact information there in Dallas is on the LZOC front page under "Sources".
  17. Very nice things you make Keith! The ones you made for me are great! You have a cottage industry that should support you for years if you can expand into different classic cars as they need the interior parts not found many places. So many parts on our Lincolns that would be great for reproductions, but just not enough interest which causes us to go nuts bidding on old rusty parts in hopes of getting something to keep the rides going. Keep up all the good repros! Ray
  18. I use a Purolator One #L30034 I get from Advanced Auto Parts. Hard to find these, but they are rather inexpensive, about $6.00 I think I paid for them. I like to buy a few and keep them on hand as they have to be shipped unless you live in an area where they have a store. Most other suppliers have discontinued them. Hope this helps! Ray
  19. I got the wiring harnesses for my '41 Zephyr from Rhode Island Wiring. Everything fit well and great service. They have all the old wiring charts with proper color codes to match the wiring diagrams. Check them out!
  20. I emailed the seller and told him what a shame it was that he really ruined the car and now he wants a high price to hand it over to someone else to fix his mess. And it would cost some$50,000 to restore it. He answered that it was just my opinion. The dummy will wind up selling whatever parts he can, not a restorable vehicle.
  21. Regardless of your efforts to free up the engine, the reality is you're going to have to tear it down if you expect to really run it. After all these years of sitting you can bet the bearings are probably rusted and frozen especially if the oil wasn't changed and water often gets into the crankcase. These old cars are lots of fun to restore if you can find the parts. They made a lot of these, and parts are somewhat interchangable from 1949-1953 as they used the same engine. The engines can easily be rebuilt by a mechanic that understands flat head 8 cylinder motors. As a kid our family had a brand new '52 & '53 Pontiacs. They were nice cars. And remember the Pontiac was built on the same chassis as the Chevrolet, so some of those parts might work for you. You need to keep in mind that the value of one of these cars is probably around $20-25K fully restored if you're building it to sell. My classic is a 1941 Lincoln Zephyr custom 2 door coupe fully restored. Lots of fun getting it to it's current stage, and you always tweak them after restoration. Good luck on yours! Ray
  22. I got the one I'm using from Vintage Auto Warehouse in Frederick, MD. I did have a problem with the terminal end that goes to the starter solenoid as the end was ony crimped. I had a one volt loss which gave the starter a problem. I peeled back about 1/4 inch of insulation at the end and dug out the insulation inside the connector, then I soldered it with my torch and filled the connector with solder. Then I put a couple of layers of shrink wrap tubing around the end and that fixed it. You could also use electrical tap to cover the exposed area going in the connector. There are auto electrical shops that can make up the cables, they usually use welding cables like on welding outfits which are heavy and flexible. Electrical building wire isn't suitable as it's too stiff and hard to install properly. Hope that helps! Ray:cool:
  23. Ralph, do you have the backup switch setup for a 41 Zephyr? I have the backup lights for it, but not the switch for the linkage. I've looked to put magnetic switches or mechanical switches, but nothing really fits properly. There is probably a simple way to attach a switch on the transmission. Any information you have would be appreciated. Ray Ray500@aol.com
  24. Documentation is skimpy to say the least for these vehicles. I think the mechanics of that day had to go it on their own with whatever experience they had, because Ford Motor Company had very poor documentation of their vehicles technically. Even printed sales brochures and ads were literally paintings, not photos. I have tried to collect whatever manuals I can find, but they leave a lot to be desired, and some have multiple years combined which can be confusing. I think there are technical bulletins out there for these vehicles, but not sure how detailed they are or useful in today's world.
  25. When people take a beautiful original car and tear it up with all their customization and changes, do they really expect to get big bucks for the mess? These classics will never be original again, and the fool hotrodders that think they know more than anyone else should suffer the monetary loss of their efforts that no one appreciates! So many early Fords and other classic cars were made into street rods that few are interested in buying. Who needs a 392 engine with automatic trans and airconditoning! If I wanted that I would just go by a new car!
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