Ray500

Getting the speedometer cluster is very tricky, and can challenge anyone with large hands. There are stud mounted brackets that hold the cluster to the dash, and once you release them the wiring is tight in some cases, but that's the only way you're going to get to the cluster to replace the oil gauge. Some do what the ratrodders do an add an oil gauge separately under the dash as a quick fix. It is important to have a good working oil gauge. Might be a good idea to make sure the replacement gauge you have is in good working condition by temping it in outside the the dash to make sure it's functional. Also sometimes bad wiring conditions cause gauges not to work which also needs checking. Good luck on it!

I save all the bolts and other items in the restoration of my vehicle, and I checked the old bolts and they have no inscription or label on them what so ever. So the new bolts I put in different places look the same. But they won't rust in the future making it easier to work on things. Perhaps the Ford bolts are different from the Lincoln ones. The only way you can tell is if you use a magnet to check whether a bolt is ferrous metal or stainless.

Actually when rebuilding or just cleaning up and repairing I prefer to use stainless steel screws, bolts, nuts, washers, etc. to cut down on the rust. Original manufacturers other than perhaps Italian high end vehicles didn't use them because of cost, and you weren't supposed to keep a vehicle long enough for it to rust. We have a nut & bolt house here and they carry most sizes. You can probably find stainless steel ones in your area if you search around some. And remember most automotive bolts are fine threads, but certainly available. Probably on line too! It's cheap insurance of your ride not rusting up and easy to remove any part of it with stainless steel hardware! You can paint them to match the location on your vehicle, so no one knows they are upgraded. I used stainless steel nuts on my heads and then capped them with chrome plated caps to give them a custom look without really deterring from the value and keeping it original!

Thanks! I'll check them out! Ray

1941 Lincoln Zephyr Custom Coupe. Restored to original, but as time passes things like the gas tank need attention. Thanks! Ray

Does anyone know if there are any aftermarket stainless steel gas tanks for the '41s? Even regular tanks might work, but I would prefer a stainless steel one so it won't corrode with the ethanol gas we have these days. There are custom stainless steel people will make, but they're just boxes that make the vehicle look like a rat-rod, not the original. Thanks, Ray

Does anyone know if there are any aftermarket stainless steel gas tanks for the '41s? Even regular tanks might work, but I would prefer a stainless steel one so it won't corrode with the ethanol gas we have these days. There are custom stainless steel people will make, but they're just boxes that make the vehicle look like a rat-rod, not the original. Thanks, Ray

Boos Harrel had some at one time. Look on the club sources and there should be some available. Parts are getting harder to find these days. 80+ YO things do get a bit rare as time progresses! Someone has been making the LED versions of the 39 tail lights also. Ebay might have some, but doubtful!

Well...great! We found the answers now and here's hoping the car gets safely to it's intended destination to continue it's legacy, whatever that might be! Good luck and good night!

Do some checking in your area for deals of hauling vehicles, there are a lot of empty trucks that can be used most places. The liability you incur doing this sort of thing yourself without proper equipment or insurance is asking for a big legal problem should something go wrong. You can rent containers...the 20 foot kind and then find a trucker who will put it on his trailer and take it wherever you want. Not much is very cheap these days, but there are deals and considerate people who will help given the opportunity and making known your situation. Good Luck!

That's actually "Knobsoup.com"!

You have to remove the steering wheel, steering column locking unit, and unbolt the steering gear box from the frame and slide it out under the vehicle. That is after you remove the pitman arm connection. I replaced mine with a rebuilt, some work and a lot of effort to get it in and out if you don't have a lift. You have to get the car high enough to allow it to come out. Also it seemed impossible to get it to stop the leaking of the 90 weight oil in it, so I finally got some of the gasket seal compound instead of just the gaskets. It seals with a silicon compound and once I had it sealed up not a drop of oil leaked out of it. Modern mechanics use the stuff for engine and transmission pans to keep them from leaking, Paper gaskets just don't work well. And also old cars like these have warped parts like the sheet metal parts. Paper gaskets at best will probably seal better with totally flat surfaces and not overly tightened bolts!

Lots of work to restore properly and completely. Taking the body apart, especially off frame can be problematic since it's a uni-body and often it doesn't fit back like one would like. Going this far you would want to replace things like all the wiring harnesses and brakes complete as well as shocks and exhaust. when you have it apart it's a lot easier to do these tasks. Also motor, trans, differential, front end......like building a new car! And remember if you're rebuilding to sell that doesn't always work too well with the cost of parts and the amount of time. But a great hobby and a proud project once it's completed. Do document each step of the restoration in photos and comments. Good luck!

Yes, the rear and wishbone need to be out of the way. This isn't a small job, so you want to address any and all issues from the flywheel to the rear end of the vehicle while you have it apart. Flywheels also need to be 'trued' which means ground in a machine shop so the clutch plate fits firmly against it like you want your brake shoes to fit the drums for maximum contact. It should be done on a lift as it doesn't work well in a 'shade-tree' environment. The transmission and OD if you have one should be gone through completely while they're out of the vehicle to resolve any issues. When I did mine the rear end/differential with the wheels was removed to allow the transmission and OD unit space to remove them and reinstall them. Good luck!

You have to remove the driveshaft and usually the transmission and OD unit if you have one and block the rear of the engine to support it while the transmission is out. Then with the transmission and OD out of the vehicle it's easier to replace the seals wherever needed. Might be a good time to replace the clutch face, throwout bearing since you have it apart! When I did mine a supplier sold me a Ford clutch plate which is smaller so be sure to get the Lincoln one. Lots of work...Good Luck!

All large files like videos have to be uploaded through a service like Vimeo and they provide a link for the receiver to look at it. Anything over 25 MB won't be allowed on most browsers like Yahoo and such. Vimeo is free basically. Internet can be a bummer sometimes!

That's the same as my '41 filter. The elements when you change the oil is available from Advance Auto Parts. Their number for the original filter (P34) is L30034 and the last price I paid was less than $7.00 each. I buy them by the case as it's cheaper on the freight. As to hydraulic or solid lifters, the connection is different but mine is hydraulic and no particular reason to change that. If you change your oil regularly even if you don't drive much the lifters should be fine. Ford always wanted an oil change every 1000 miles. I do use Mobil 1 motor oil and it works well.

Beautiful car from the era of real automobiles prior to the Japanese invasion of tOyotas and such! The real problem is finding a parking place for it!

Tough job at times, best to send it to Skip Haney in Florida for a proper rebuild with correct replacement bearings and part as well as seals. He guarantees his work too!

I have a AM/FM board I built up into a 41 radio cabinet. Those boards are from a company in Florida that builds retro radios for old cars. They are all 12 volts, so I use a 6-12 volt converter, and a small battery on the unit (12 Volts/7Ah) to smooth out the voltage/current hidden under the actual battery under the hood.. I modified the dial indicator for adding FM to the radio. Looks original and plays well, with a couple of Sony sub woofers under the front seat, and a couple of small speakers under the dash. If you don't look too close you don't notice. I still have some other '41 radios I haven't restored yet and one I did restore before I configured the AM/FM so I can reinstall it to be fully AM original! If you're gonna crank good tunes you need the power, and this configured radio puts out 185 watts if you are hard of hearing! Not as loud as the 10,000 watt blasters the kids use, but sufficient!

My 41 Zephyr Coupe I had to weigh in order to get a license plate. It weighed some 3800 pounds on a public scale.

Skip actually replaces the coils inside the housing which is the best way. After so many years the insulation on the copper wire will break down and you'll get internal shorts that are difficult to find. When the coil arches internally you don't know it, but you get a much smaller spark to the ignition. Best to send them to him and let him clean them out and replace the copper windings for a better operation. The ballast resistors on the small panel under the dash are important to make sure you're getting 3-4 VDC to each terminal of the coil when the engine is running. The resistors drop the voltage from the battery of 6 volts DC and allow the coil and points to run the ignition. You don't want a full 6 volts on the coil, not necessary. You also want at least 3-4 volts for proper operation. Get or borrow a reliable digital volt meter and check it once you've gotten the rebuilt coil installed. And don't forget the condensers, they can cause poor operation too. Most don't have capacitor testers, so just get a new pair and not worry about it. And watch that fan blade as it's close quarters to put your hands around the coil. Test leads with alligator clips are the best to move the testing away from the fan.

Try Merv Atkins...he's got a lot of things and alot of old cars! © Copyright 2008 - 2018 Lincoln-Zephyr Owners Club Send mail to lzoc.org@Gmail.com with questions or comments about this web site. Thanks for visiting. MERV ADKINS 9655 HIDDEN FARM ROAD RANCHO CUCAMONGA, CA 91737 (909) 980-1332 1936-1948 LINCOLN-ZEPHYR/CONTINENTAL PARTS * Engines * Transmissions * Skirts * Grilles * Instruments * Rust Free Sheetmetal * Engine Rebuild Kits * Motor Mounts * Frame Mounts * Transmission Mounts * King Pins * Drag Links * Wheels * Bumpers * Carburetors * Generators * Starters Everything from nuts and bolts to complete cars. Too many parts to list; call me for those hard to find parts! HOME Who Are We? Membership Events Classifieds Merchandise Sources & Tech Info Photo Gallery Forum

Yes D the modification of putting in a PCV valve is a good idea on these old engines. And of course all 'singing' should be left to stations on the radio, not the tranny! I do need to put PCV valve in my 41 mine which I will get to once I have my new brakes installed.