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Everything posted by Ray500

  1. And get a new Optima 6 volt battery for the best results. They won't leak all over the battery shelf either like traditional lead-acid ones do. You can get a Lincoln script cover for the Optima to give it the look of a traditional battery. I also put an alternator which is housed in a traditional generator housing so it's very original looking but the battery will be charged at idle speeds unlike the old generators. Not exactly how it was originally but a lot safer to drive and better reliability of operation.
  2. That appears to be a K.R. Wilson distributor tool for Ford V8s. The V12 units are different. I have a Lincoln one, and I also just got a copy of the 1994 magazine article written by Jake Fleming as to how to setup the distributors for the Lincoln V12s. I never did see the article on line anyplace, might be a copywrite issue. The club offers the old magazines at very reasonable prices to get the information. The instructions I got when I purchased my unit aren't very clear, written by typewriter and faded over the years. Someone actually was selling the tool instructions at one time on eBay.
  3. You can get AW22 hydraulic fluid in 5 gallon barrels from Napa, we do for other hydraulic systems. We used to buy it from Pennzoil but I think it's the same fluid. But still small quantities I prefer Mobil 1 synthetic motor oil.
  4. Actually Mobil One is a great hydraulic fluid. We use it in hydraulic gate systems and no problems! Probably will work in the old hydraulics of the old window or top cylinders. The biggest problem with any hydraulics is they all leak sooner or later. So good seals are a must to keep it under control!
  5. If you want $50.00 for all of them let me know where to send you a check! Thanks, Ray
  6. It it's rusty and corroded internally loosening it up with penetrating oil like Blast will get it going, but it will continue to give trouble. Better to find a new one. There are suppliers listed on the club website, and they might have a replacement and less of a problem messing with old corrosion and such that is almost impossible to really fix reliably.
  7. I'd leave old lead alone! You can certainly sand it if it's exposed, just make sure you have a proper respirator if your messing with it. Lead poisoning is more a problem for young children, but still not something you want to inhale. In the old days they heated lead like a plumber who sealed pipes to fill crack and holes in body work, then sanded it smooth and finish painting it. It was a hard lead but still lead. It never really adhered like Bondo does in more modern body work, and sometimes it would split away from the seams in body repair. It was dangerous to say the least, and hot lead is nothing to mess with! I've seen Bondo put over lead patches, sometimes that doesn't work if the lead isn't solid. Any paint/body work is hazardous to your breathing, it's always best to avoid as much of it as possible. Good luck!!
  8. You must be referring to the rubber tubing that is clamped on the connection of the dash inside shaft control and the under the hood shaft that goes to the throttle and chock units. I'll try to take a photo of mine later and post it. Thanks, Ray
  9. That cluster gauge assembly should come out as a unit if you can get the rear brackets off that hold it to the dash so you can remove the oil gauge. But you might also check the voltage at the gauge while it's mounted in the car if you can get to it. One side of the gauge is connected through a resistor to the battery, the other is going out to the sensor on the engine. You can ground the sensor lead at the gauge if you can get to it and observe the gauge to see if it's responsive. With battery voltage on one side and ground on the other side of the gauge....if it doesn't respond then the gauge is probably the problem. A mirror and flashlight looking up behind the dash might give you a clue as to removing the cluster. Looks like there are some add-on controls under the dash which might have to be removed temporarily till you can get he cluster out of the dash. Good luck!
  10. The cluster of gauges is part of the speedometer unit if it's original. Most of these cars have a lot of stuff behind the dashboard, and little room to work on it just sticking your head up behind the dash and trying to work. On my '41 I found it easier to just pull out the speedometer cluster. I also replaced the wiring with new cabling with new exact wiring color code and wire covering that was as the original. On these vehicles the old wiring was rubber covered, and this many years later the rubber dries up, cracks, and exposes the wiring harness to shorts and a fire. So for safety and proper operations new wiring is essential to the restoration of your vehicle. It updates your wiring yet it's as if it were just as original. Nothing like reliable electrical circuits including lighting especially in these 6 volt systems. Some quick examination of the condition of the wiring in your vehicle including around the instrument cluster can help determine the best way to replace the oil pressure gauge. It will be easier if you can remove the cluster from the vehicle and replace the gauge on your work bench to do it properly.
  11. Getting the speedometer cluster is very tricky, and can challenge anyone with large hands. There are stud mounted brackets that hold the cluster to the dash, and once you release them the wiring is tight in some cases, but that's the only way you're going to get to the cluster to replace the oil gauge. Some do what the ratrodders do an add an oil gauge separately under the dash as a quick fix. It is important to have a good working oil gauge. Might be a good idea to make sure the replacement gauge you have is in good working condition by temping it in outside the the dash to make sure it's functional. Also sometimes bad wiring conditions cause gauges not to work which also needs checking. Good luck on it!
  12. I save all the bolts and other items in the restoration of my vehicle, and I checked the old bolts and they have no inscription or label on them what so ever. So the new bolts I put in different places look the same. But they won't rust in the future making it easier to work on things. Perhaps the Ford bolts are different from the Lincoln ones. The only way you can tell is if you use a magnet to check whether a bolt is ferrous metal or stainless.
  13. Actually when rebuilding or just cleaning up and repairing I prefer to use stainless steel screws, bolts, nuts, washers, etc. to cut down on the rust. Original manufacturers other than perhaps Italian high end vehicles didn't use them because of cost, and you weren't supposed to keep a vehicle long enough for it to rust. We have a nut & bolt house here and they carry most sizes. You can probably find stainless steel ones in your area if you search around some. And remember most automotive bolts are fine threads, but certainly available. Probably on line too! It's cheap insurance of your ride not rusting up and easy to remove any part of it with stainless steel hardware! You can paint them to match the location on your vehicle, so no one knows they are upgraded. I used stainless steel nuts on my heads and then capped them with chrome plated caps to give them a custom look without really deterring from the value and keeping it original!
  14. Ray500

    Gas tanks

    Thanks! I'll check them out! Ray
  15. Ray500

    Gas tanks

    1941 Lincoln Zephyr Custom Coupe. Restored to original, but as time passes things like the gas tank need attention. Thanks! Ray
  16. Does anyone know if there are any aftermarket stainless steel gas tanks for the '41s? Even regular tanks might work, but I would prefer a stainless steel one so it won't corrode with the ethanol gas we have these days. There are custom stainless steel people will make, but they're just boxes that make the vehicle look like a rat-rod, not the original. Thanks, Ray
  17. Ray500

    Gas tanks

    Does anyone know if there are any aftermarket stainless steel gas tanks for the '41s? Even regular tanks might work, but I would prefer a stainless steel one so it won't corrode with the ethanol gas we have these days. There are custom stainless steel people will make, but they're just boxes that make the vehicle look like a rat-rod, not the original. Thanks, Ray
  18. Boos Harrel had some at one time. Look on the club sources and there should be some available. Parts are getting harder to find these days. 80+ YO things do get a bit rare as time progresses! Someone has been making the LED versions of the 39 tail lights also. Ebay might have some, but doubtful!
  19. Well...great! We found the answers now and here's hoping the car gets safely to it's intended destination to continue it's legacy, whatever that might be! Good luck and good night!
  20. Do some checking in your area for deals of hauling vehicles, there are a lot of empty trucks that can be used most places. The liability you incur doing this sort of thing yourself without proper equipment or insurance is asking for a big legal problem should something go wrong. You can rent containers...the 20 foot kind and then find a trucker who will put it on his trailer and take it wherever you want. Not much is very cheap these days, but there are deals and considerate people who will help given the opportunity and making known your situation. Good Luck!
  21. You have to remove the steering wheel, steering column locking unit, and unbolt the steering gear box from the frame and slide it out under the vehicle. That is after you remove the pitman arm connection. I replaced mine with a rebuilt, some work and a lot of effort to get it in and out if you don't have a lift. You have to get the car high enough to allow it to come out. Also it seemed impossible to get it to stop the leaking of the 90 weight oil in it, so I finally got some of the gasket seal compound instead of just the gaskets. It seals with a silicon compound and once I had it sealed up not a drop of oil leaked out of it. Modern mechanics use the stuff for engine and transmission pans to keep them from leaking, Paper gaskets just don't work well. And also old cars like these have warped parts like the sheet metal parts. Paper gaskets at best will probably seal better with totally flat surfaces and not overly tightened bolts!
  22. Lots of work to restore properly and completely. Taking the body apart, especially off frame can be problematic since it's a uni-body and often it doesn't fit back like one would like. Going this far you would want to replace things like all the wiring harnesses and brakes complete as well as shocks and exhaust. when you have it apart it's a lot easier to do these tasks. Also motor, trans, differential, front end......like building a new car! And remember if you're rebuilding to sell that doesn't always work too well with the cost of parts and the amount of time. But a great hobby and a proud project once it's completed. Do document each step of the restoration in photos and comments. Good luck!
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