rocky5517 Posted November 29, 2017 Share Posted November 29, 2017 The other day I noticed the headlights had not rotated closed. I can turn them on and off alright, with the headlight switch. I removed the connections from the relay, cleaned them, and also checked the connections to the electric motor. I tried to get a continuity reading from the relay, but couldn't. Not sure if I did it correctly, though. All this took place while the car was basically stationary, or moved maybe 20' out of the garage. Today I took her out for a run and gassed up. As I pulled into the station I heard a "grinding " sound. I shut it down, filled up., and turned it back on. Again I heard the sound, which was pretty constant and not connected to the engine speed. It stopped in a few seconds and when I looked, I saw that the headlights indeed had rotated shut.When I got home I lubed everything I could, but now they still remain open. What am I looking for? A bad relay? A bad motor?A bad ignition switch? Can the relay be part bad? the grinding sounded like teeth. Motor going bad? thanks, Sam in North Jersey Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JZRIV Posted November 29, 2017 Share Posted November 29, 2017 Sam, If I understand correctly the headlamps will not go up or close but worked once intermittently? In most cases if they do not close its the auxiliary relay on the right front inner fender. If they don't open its the relay on the far left of firewall under hood. When they don't close, with key on and headlamp switch off, try tapping on the auxiliary relay. If the contacts are slightly corroded or there is a broken wire inside the relay coil sometimes the vibration will be enough to make them operate. Or, have someone turn the switch on and off while you have your ear by the relay (with a quiet background) and see if you can hear relay clicking every time the switch is cycled on and off. If relay is not clicking next is check for power to the relay coil and for this refer to shop manual. There is a special section with headlamp wiring diagram If not a relay, it could be a bad connection anywhere in the headlamp wiring including at the switch. The motors themselves have proven to be very reliable and nearly bulletproof. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seafoam65 Posted November 29, 2017 Share Posted November 29, 2017 (edited) Please refer to the article next to this one to totally troubleshoot your headlamp system. All you need is a test light to do the tests Edited November 29, 2017 by Seafoam65 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JZRIV Posted November 29, 2017 Share Posted November 29, 2017 Winston - Sam has a 67. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seafoam65 Posted November 29, 2017 Share Posted November 29, 2017 (edited) Oops! Guess I shouldn't have made that assumption! Jason you need to write an article on troubleshooting the 66 and 67 hideaways. I'll bet they work essentially the same way, perhaps wire colors may be different. Edited November 29, 2017 by Seafoam65 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1965rivgs Posted November 29, 2017 Share Posted November 29, 2017 Make sure you have the ignition switch in the "on" position when attempting to close the headlight covers. Tom Mooney Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocky5517 Posted November 30, 2017 Author Share Posted November 30, 2017 Follow up/ before I read any of the responses ( thanks guys) I started her up to put it back in the garage and I heard the noise again. With the engine running (car in park, of course) I looked at the front and the lights were kind of "fluttering", struggling to retract. They were about half-way retracted but kind of stuck, or as I said, fluttering. I touched the headlight and the noise stopped but the lights just froze, half retracted. I turned the car off, then on again. and they went back to the open position. The noise reminded me of gears not meshing properly. Assuming there are gears inside the motor, are the plastic or nylon? I tried to tap on the aux relay earlier but nothing happened. I'll try again tomorrow. At least they are in the open position so I can drive at night. One more thing; so I wouldn't have any more problems with them sticking, I shut the car off with the headlight switch still on; then, I turned the headlight switch off, so they wouldn't try to close on their own. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JZRIV Posted November 30, 2017 Share Posted November 30, 2017 (edited) With that symptom of fluttering part way, I would unplug the wiring connector at motor. There will be two male terminals recessed in the rubber housing on the motor. One terminal is for down and one for up. Take a jumper wire and connect one end to battery positive and then touch other end to one of the two terminals. If nothing happens try the other terminal. Be sure to only touch one terminal at a time as they are close together. The motor should operate both directions by alternately applying power to the terminals thereby eliminating any potential external wiring issue. If motor still has erratic movement it’s probably best to remove it for bench inspection. There are two limit switches under a cover on motor that tell it where to stop in each direction. While rare to have these switches fail it’s possible as is an internal problem in motor. Edited November 30, 2017 by JZRIV (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocky5517 Posted November 30, 2017 Author Share Posted November 30, 2017 Thanks Jason/ will keep you posted Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocky5517 Posted December 2, 2017 Author Share Posted December 2, 2017 Ok; I checked the motor by jumping it and it runs smoothly in both directions. Luckily I have a spare, which I practiced on first. I did notice that my spare has a really thin wire that seems to connect two "terminals" but on the motor in the car, that wire is broken off. Please see pix Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JZRIV Posted December 3, 2017 Share Posted December 3, 2017 Sam, That's just a drip/string from when the rubberized coating was applied that happened to solidify in that area connecting the two. No wire . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocky5517 Posted December 4, 2017 Author Share Posted December 4, 2017 Thanks again Jason Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob 67 Riviera Posted April 29, 2022 Share Posted April 29, 2022 I have a 67 Buick Riviera n my headlights just stop working they come on but wont go up or down i used a jumper wire from positive battery to motor terminals n they work so dont tgink its the motor any suggestions would be appreciated Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1965rivgs Posted April 29, 2022 Share Posted April 29, 2022 The opening and closing cycles are initiated from the 4 prong relay on the drivers side firewall. The relay on the right front core support is key switch controlled and either allows the closing cycle voltage to pass through or interrupts the closing circuit depending on the position of the key. If the key is in the off position the headlight covers will not close. If the key is in the on position the covers will close. Sounds like you have no action at the motor in either opening or closing mode so I would take a look at the wiper fuse which supplies voltage to the headlight system and the trans kickdown switch. If you have voltage take a look at the 4 prong relay. Make sure the relay is properly grounded. Tom Mooney Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob 67 Riviera Posted April 29, 2022 Share Posted April 29, 2022 Ok ima check n get back to u thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob 67 Riviera Posted May 2, 2022 Share Posted May 2, 2022 Wiper fuse was good. Any other suggestions on headlights? Plus got in today n none of my windows wont roll down i try all switches any suggestions Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted May 2, 2022 Share Posted May 2, 2022 10 hours ago, Rob 67 Riviera said: Plus got in today n none of my windows wont roll down I'd start by looking at the master switch on the driver's door. Check to see whether 12V is getting to the switch using a test light or voltmeter. If no, then start tracing power back toward the fuse block. If there's no power at the master switch it's likely the wire is broken where it passes through the door jamb. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob 67 Riviera Posted May 2, 2022 Share Posted May 2, 2022 Ok ima start there n see what i get thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob 67 Riviera Posted May 2, 2022 Share Posted May 2, 2022 Now how i use test light on switch? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted May 2, 2022 Share Posted May 2, 2022 (edited) If you have no power from the main switch on the driver's door and no power from any of the three other switches for their individual windows, and all of a sudden none of your windows work and they had all ben good before, you're not dealing with switch issues. Find the circuit breaker. Start testing from the 12V source (battery) then take it section at a time, in sequence, until you no longer get a good test. Are you sure you have a good battery? Edited May 2, 2022 by RivNut (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob 67 Riviera Posted May 2, 2022 Share Posted May 2, 2022 RivNut yes just upgraded battery n alternator so pretty sure not battery. Where the circuit breaker located in 67? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob 67 Riviera Posted May 2, 2022 Share Posted May 2, 2022 Thanks everyone i figured it out by tracing headlights wires to firewall move wire around n headlights going up n down again n windows work now not sure what i did but thank everyone for help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted May 2, 2022 Share Posted May 2, 2022 4 minutes ago, Rob 67 Riviera said: wires to firewall move wire around Look at the main harness connector behind the fuse block. Is that anywhere near where you were wiggling the wires...? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob 67 Riviera Posted May 3, 2022 Share Posted May 3, 2022 Yes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted May 4, 2022 Share Posted May 4, 2022 (edited) I've seen that main harness connector fail (on other GM cars) due to (1) looseness, (2) moisture/dirt, (3) corrosion or any combination of those three. I'd suggest, if at all possible, removing the bolt that holds it in place from the fuse block and unplugging the harness. Inspect and clean, and or repair it as required. Maybe first just try grabbing the main connector and wiggle it with the headlights in the 'wrong' state to see whether that causes them to move... Edited May 4, 2022 by EmTee (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telriv Posted May 4, 2022 Share Posted May 4, 2022 I've recently ran into a problem with the bulkhead connecter that drove me nuts for an extended period of time. When I finally dis-connected, both, at the firewall to my dismay I found the problem that had been plaguing me. ALL the connections had a VERY FINE white powdery coating on the terminals which was enough to cause the problems I was having. The ODDBALL part of this is that ANY bulkhead connection I've EVER done in the past, from the factory, was a coating of a heavy Brown grease on both connectors. Cleaned off the white powdery residue, tightened the connections, greased & re-installed. Hasn't been a re-curing problem for months now. Tom T. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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