How the f$(# do you install upper outer pin on front shocks?

[Matt Harwood]

Just spent two days wrestling, shouting, yelling, punching, throwing tools, and have nothing to show for it. Removed front shocks on the limo and had them rebuilt by Apple Hydraulics and figured that since taking them off was easy, putting them back on would be easy, too. Ordered new upper outer pins and bushings from Bob's (which are apparently Chinese junk, more on that in a moment) and figured it wouldn't take long to put all these nice shiny, new parts back together. Shocks bolted into place with the help of my 8-year-old son, but getting those stupid pins and dust seals in place has proven to be virtually impossible. Not sure how they did it on the assembly line, but I'm guessing it was some kind of Superman with four arms.

 

Problem #1 is that the dust seals are HUGE, like a half inch thick. They are also too small in diameter to fit over the thick part of the pin that goes into the suspension upright and not flexible enough to slide over the ends of the shock arms as shown in the manual. One goes on easily because you can just slide the pin through, but the other one is impossible. Finally tore it by trying to push it through the bore of one of the shock arm holes, which appears to be the only way to do it. Steal seal from other pin and try again. Fail again.

 

Problem #2 is getting the outer bushing caps on. They screw onto the ends of the pin, but they also have threads that screw into the inside of the shock arms. They are not the same thread pitch. So screwing it onto the pin eventually locks up the bushing on the shock arm threads. Screwing it into the shock arm threads eventually locks up the pin. No idea how to get them to thread into place simultaneously, which appears to be necessary.

 

Problem #3 is that the pins themselves are Chinese-made pieces of shiat. The bushings are ostensibly 1-1/8 and I have both a 1-1/8 socket and a 1-1/8 box wrench. Both are about 1/3 millimeter too small to fit on the bushing, which was obviously made by someone who doesn't know how to measure. I can probably hammer a socket onto the bushing so I can tighten it, but then that socket becomes a permanent part of the assembly afterwards. Nice job there, Bob's. I'd re-use my old ones, but they are visibly worn. Maybe I'll re-use them because there's no way I trust Chinese metallurgy on a 6000 pound car. Looking for some NOS pieces now.

 

I can't be the first guy to try this at home. The car is now immobile (because the front suspension is torn off) in my garage, so I can't even send it to someone who can do it. I'm married to the project until it's done. So any tips on how to put this $%#ker back together? Otherwise the Limited just became a permanent part of my carriage house decor.

[Ben Bruce aka First Born]

Matt, there was a vendor at Chickasha who had NOS Thompson stuff. I did not get his name or card. Perhaps some one knows him.  Another possibility is Pete Phillips.

 

  I would not let the dust seals be a game killer. Roads are not as dusty as before.

 

  Ben

[LAS VEGAS DAVE]

There are machine shops that can make the pins the way you want if you have your old ones to show them. It will cost more but will be perfect.

[ILIKECARS53]

Matt  Just did that on my 42 Limited.  I took the whole front end apart.  I attached the shocks to the knuckle on the bench. Then put lower "A" frame to the lower part of the knuckle.   I am over simplifying the procedure but willing to talk via phone if you wish.  Thanks   Jim

[jeff]

I also had to leave the dust seals off.  They don't seem to be correct, or even close.  Same issue on my lower inner bushings.  My solution is to pull the front wheels off each spring, lube everything, clean off the excess grease.  While the wheels are off I pull the drums and inspect the brakes, introducing a little new grease to the wheel bearings while I am there. 

 

Makes for an enjoyable morning.

 

If you visit these components once a year, and stay off the dirt roads, you will be fine.

[Fr. Buick]

Us a monkey wrench...  If it is like my '54, try this: Put the threaded bushing in first and torque it down.  Then thread in the pin into that, with the rubber seal already installed on that side.  Slide the other seal up the other arm.  When the pin is in place, pull the second rubber dust shield into position, and install the last bushing.

[39BuickEight]

This sounds exactly like what we went through on my 1939.  I swear they are selling 1938? bushings instead and don't know there is a difference.  We crammed them in after much force and foul language, and they ended up splitting.  We'll see how long they stay in place.  

 

I put a ? after the 1938 because I think there is a year or application with different bushings that look like would fit with what Bob's sent me.  Bob's told me that what they sent me were definitely for a 1939 and that the arms on my car must have been switched at one time during service.

 

Matt, read this (post #3) and see if it helps:

 

 

Edited April 12, 2017 by 39BuickEight (see edit history)

[Matt Harwood]

Thanks for the advice guys. It took me two weeks to get my head back on straight and go out to the carriage house for another try. I think I had success thanks to the tips offered here. I ran the threaded bushing all the way in, then inserted the pin, and it seemed to all come together pretty well. My awesome wife, seeing my frustration with the seals a few weeks ago called Steele Rubber and ordered up some thinner versions that were a lot easier to work with, so those went on as well. The only thing that concerns me is that I had to use some force (note the Port-A-Power) to get the pin aligned in the clamped opening to thread that bushing on (right side). I'm hoping that once it moves around a bit on the road, everything will center itself and I'll go through and loosen and re-tighten everything after some miles. I'm guessing I'll also need an alignment--impossible to say what caster and camber might be now and there was no way to be sure it went back together the way it was. I simply tried to center the spindle in the fork. Does it look right to you guys who have done it (ignore the safety wire, that was just there to keep the spindle and brake drum from stressing the brake line while the shock was out).

 

 

Again, thank you for the advice, it really helped!

Edited April 22, 2017 by Matt Harwood (see edit history)

[70sWagoneers]

I just went thru this same scenario. Took it all apart and then rebuilt the Lovejoys myself. I must have tried to install everything 5 times but just couldn't get the upper pivot pin in there. Finally I figured out the correct sequence and lined everything up with the help of a ratchet strap and bar clamps! Upon installation, he top of the knuckle and the pin should be spaced evenly between the shock arm. Caster can be tuned later. I bought seals, but I was at suck wit's end that I was relieved just to get it back together!

James C.