1953 Buick Special Riviera (45R) - Modified

[Guest biodegraded]

New to the forum and new to classic car ownership (for the most part - I used to have a 1948 Plymouth when I was in college, but sold it after about 2 years).  I recently decided that I needed to retire my 2003 Nissan daily driver and my wife suggested we consider a classic.  I began monitoring local cars for sale, looking for just the right one.  I finally found it in this 1953 Buick Special Riviera hardtop restomod.  After some long deliberations, I took the plunge.  Not that I dislike the stock look of these cars, but the way this car has had its lines cleaned up and streamlined just makes my heart sing.  Here's a list of things I love about it and a list of things that need work.

 

Things I love:

-Shaved everything. Door handles, trunk lid, hood, etc.

-Satin two tone paint.  I had been looking for something with some patina, but this color just speaks to me.

-Frenched everything. Headlights, tail lights (although they aren't the original ones), ports!

-Interior has been updated and is clean (except for the missing headliner)

-The front grill.  I love that big toothy mouth!

-The stance - it has been lowered 2 inches. I believe this was done by putting in shorter springs and leaving the original shocks, which I understand brings the shocks out of working range.  So the ride is a little jouncy, but I don't mind.

-The engine runs great

-Gotta love that side trim

 

Things that need some work:

-The paint is showing some wear. Significant chips in places and especially around the hood corners (I understand this is a common problem with this model).

-The hood alignment.  It's not so much misaligned as it is too wide at the back.  The corners closest to the windshield are about 1/2 inch too wide on both sides.  I'm not sure if I should try and bend the hood or bend the hinges toward the center?  

-The headliner is non-existent.  I have the bows, but that's it.  I'm a little nervous to try installing a new one myself, especially without having one to remove to see how it goes in.  But I also don't want to pay $1000 for a professional to do it.  

-The torque ball seal is leaking.  This is first on my to do list.

-Minor exhaust leak at the exhaust manifold.  I've read that stock this did not have gaskets between the exhaust manifold and block.  Mine does have a gasket.  Maybe that's why it leaks.  But I'm afraid to go gasketless as I don't know the condition of the mating surfaces.

-Wipers need to be installed.  I hope they work because this is going to be my driver.

-Some of the windows need new glass or mechanism repair/adjustment

 

Overall, I am super happy with my purchase so far.  I hope to have many miles of fun in this car and I'm sure I'll be on here often asking for advice.  I'll keep this thread updated as I make progress on the car.

 

From the ad:

Edited November 3, 2016 by biodegraded (see edit history)

[NC-car-guy]

Welcome! cool car

[JohnD1956]

That is a good looking set of modifications.  Love the headlight treatment.  Any pics of the back end?

 

As to the hood, I wonder if that has a large series hood on there?

[dei]

Stating the torque ball seal is leaking, do you still have the original drive train?

Nice model being the hardtop!

 

Have fun driving her! 

[Guest biodegraded]

14 hours ago, JohnD1956 said:

That is a good looking set of modifications.  Love the headlight treatment.  Any pics of the back end?

 

As to the hood, I wonder if that has a large series hood on there?

 

Here are some pics of the back end (from the online ad).  Any idea what the tail lights are from?  At first I thought they were from a '56 buick, but looking at pics online I don't think they are.

 

Any way to tell if it is the large series hood?  Not that it matters at this point, I just need to figure out a way to better align the panels.  I'm thinking of trying to gently bend the hinges toward the center of the car and hope that helps.  Any other ideas?

 

14 hours ago, dei said:

Stating the torque ball seal is leaking, do you still have the original drive train?

Nice model being the hardtop!

 

Have fun driving her! 

 

Yes, original straight 8 and dynaflow.  She's been converted to twelve volt and doesn't have the original air cleaner (does that mean the carb is also not original?).  Electric fuel pump.  She starts right up!

[JohnD1956]

Those look like a combination of lights to me.  Not sure the year but the upper portion appears to be a Plymouth.  The lower portion looks to be 59 Caddy.

 

BTW, I believe 53's were 12 volt to begin with, but that  may be incorrect.

[1953mack]

On ‎11‎/‎3‎/‎2016 at 4:01 PM, biodegraded said:

.....Significant chips in places and especially around the hood corners (I understand this is a common problem with this model).....The hood alignment.  It's not so much misaligned as it is too wide at the back.  The corners closest to the windshield are about 1/2 inch too wide on both sides. I'm not sure if I should try and bend the hood or bend the hinges toward the center?..... Any way to tell if it is the larger series hood?..... 

 

 

NO exterior sheet metal on the narrower Series 40 1953 Buick.....front gravel pans, front fenders, hood, doors, trunk lid, rear quarter panels, and rear gravel pan..... is interchangeable with the wider 1953 Buick 50-70 Series. The Series 40 grille has fewer teeth that equates to the Special being approximately 4" narrower overall. You were correct in saying that the existing 12-volt system was an upgrade from the OEM 6-volt set up.

 

Just my observations and opinions:

(1)  The hood fit shown in the picture is not how it left the factory. The picture indicates that the hood is low in front (the reveal lines obviously don't line up), high in the back, and the gap at the hood/door top edge is wide on the driver's side. What does the passenger side look like and what was removed to complete all the welding modifications...frenched headlights, porthole work, plugged top and front hood ornaments? Outer fenders, inner fenders, hood, or none? How did the welder control the possibility of twisting or warping the sheet metal?  

(2)  If the complete hood hinge assembly was removed from the cowl, there are adjustments that can be made up/down and front/rear. If just the hood springs were removed and the hood was removed from the hinge arms, did they take notes and did the springs go back in their original factory-setting slots? If not, there are four slots on each side giving you 16 combinations overall to try.

(3)  It could boil down to just some minor adjustments, adding a few shims, some come-along pulling work all the way to replacing warped sheet metal (hood?) to get everything back in alignment and eliminate paint chipping. 

(4)  It appears that the previous owner addressed the easiest items first and gave up on the hardest items...sheet metal alignment issues, oil leaks, exhaust leaks, and headliner work.

(5)  A talk with the bodyman who did the work would be in order to see what was removed and reinstalled.  Good luck.

 

Al Malachowski

BCA #8965

"500 Miles West of Flint"   

 

Edit:  The gap between the front left gravel deflector and the bumper looks like you might have a 50-70 Series bumper.

Edited November 6, 2016 by 1953mack (see edit history)

[Guest biodegraded]

On 11/5/2016 at 7:11 AM, 1953mack said:

 

NO exterior sheet metal on the narrower Series 40 1953 Buick.....front gravel pans, front fenders, hood, doors, trunk lid, rear quarter panels, and rear gravel pan..... is interchangeable with the wider 1953 Buick 50-70 Series. The Series 40 grille has fewer teeth that equates to the Special being approximately 4" narrower overall. You were correct in saying that the existing 12-volt system was an upgrade from the OEM 6-volt set up.

 

Just my observations and opinions:

(1)  The hood fit shown in the picture is not how it left the factory. The picture indicates that the hood is low in front (the reveal lines obviously don't line up), high in the back, and the gap at the hood/door top edge is wide on the driver's side. What does the passenger side look like and what was removed to complete all the welding modifications...frenched headlights, porthole work, plugged top and front hood ornaments? Outer fenders, inner fenders, hood, or none? How did the welder control the possibility of twisting or warping the sheet metal?  

(2)  If the complete hood hinge assembly was removed from the cowl, there are adjustments that can be made up/down and front/rear. If just the hood springs were removed and the hood was removed from the hinge arms, did they take notes and did the springs go back in their original factory-setting slots? If not, there are four slots on each side giving you 16 combinations overall to try.

(3)  It could boil down to just some minor adjustments, adding a few shims, some come-along pulling work all the way to replacing warped sheet metal (hood?) to get everything back in alignment and eliminate paint chipping. 

(4)  It appears that the previous owner addressed the easiest items first and gave up on the hardest items...sheet metal alignment issues, oil leaks, exhaust leaks, and headliner work.

(5)  A talk with the bodyman who did the work would be in order to see what was removed and reinstalled.  Good luck.

 

Al Malachowski

BCA #8965

"500 Miles West of Flint"   

 

Edit:  The gap between the front left gravel deflector and the bumper looks like you might have a 50-70 Series bumper.

 

Mack, thanks for all the great info and suggestions.  Here's my response to your items.

 

1) Yes, the hood is low in the front.  It is also high in the back, but I won't be able to correct the back height until I figure out how to narrow the back by about 1 inch.  The passenger side is almost identical to the driver's side in terms of high in the back and a little too wide.  The back corner of the hood sits above the fender on both sides.  I'll see if I can get better pictures uploaded.  I'm not sure what was removed to do the body modifications.  The previous owner was not the one that had done the modifications.  But I'm sure that at least the hood and probably the fenders were removed.  Not sure what, if anything, was done to control warping, which may be what caused the back of the hood to be too wide.

2) I'll have to try the different combinations as there is no indication or information on what the factory settings were and if they put them back on the same way.

3) This is what I'm going to try to do. I'm resigned to making the modified hood work one way or another.

4) Astute observation. 

5) Alas, that person is one owner removed.  I may see if the previous owner can give me his contact info, but I may just take it to my own body man and see if he can make some adjustments.

 

Also, your observation that the bumper is a 50-70 series is another astute one.  You have a good eye.  I'm thinking of taking the bullets off, cutting two inches or so from the section of bumper that the bullets cover and welding it back together.  That would bring the bumper ends in closer to the body and the bullets would hide the welds.  Then I could save my pennies until I have enough to have it re-chromed.  But I have higher priorities on the to do list, as you've read.

 

Thanks all for the advice.

[RiKi5156B]

Nice looking project/driver.Those taillights are 55 Plymouth upper and 59 Cad lower.Heres my 53 super restomod.

[Guest biodegraded]

On 11/20/2016 at 10:27 AM, RiKi5156B said:

Nice looking project/driver.Those taillights are 55 Plymouth upper and 59 Cad lower.Heres my 53 super restomod.

Thanks for identifying the tail lights. You've got a very nice looking ride!

[Pilgrim65]

Rik

smart colour combo, cool car

cheers

pilgrim

[RiKi5156B]

2004 GM black cherry/black. Thanks

[Ben Bruce aka First Born]

RiKi, how about  doing a thread with some more info on that Beautiful Super.

 

  Ben

 

Edited November 28, 2016 by First Born (see edit history)

[RiKi5156B]

I bought it this way in 06 in Wasilla Alaska.Frame off , every part of the car restored/refurbished. At that time it had less than 1000 miles since rebuild. New crate generic motors 350/350th.81 olds cutlass front clip.CPP drop spindles with 77 Caprice front disc. Rear is 66 Elcamino with 4 link on original coils.Flaming river tilt column with original 53 wheel adapted. 2005 gm black cherry and black.Black and gray cloth/vinyl interior. All the chrome and stainless redone. All new glass . Only things I have done are quiet mufflers instead of flow master s and lower the front.Thats about it. Been to HAN 3 times.Wife and I love it