Best way to remove rain gutter molding on 65 Riviera without damaging the piece

My right rain gutter has a small ding in it that I would like to fix at some point, but I am puzzled how to remove

it without damage. The rain gutter molding on the car is unlike others I have seen that pop off with a can opener in that the lower part of the piece is very wide and turns and goes back up into a ridge on the underside, so there is nothing to hook a can opener onto. The first person to help me with good advice on this will receive for free one of my patented "Clock Grabbers", a 19.95 value. All you have to pay is shipping and handling, what a deal!

OK Seafoam: Here's a half-baked answer. I just happened to to this project this past weekend. I took them off a while ago (the half-baked part). First DOUSE the area in question with WD-40. There is adhesive on the bottom of the channel and it's anyone's guess how much bite it still has or doesn't have. Next get a few plastic bondo paddles to use in case you need to leverage a pry tool, you won't dent the metal. Find a spot that will wriggle and try to loosen it with the pry tool keeping in mind that this stuff dents and bends if you look at it cockeyed. Be patient....it will go! OK, Take pictures so you can line things up on the way back!!

There also might be a better solution out there. Good luck, Mitch

To reinstall them, use a little wheel bearing grease under and over the rain gutter to help them slide on easier without chipping the paint !!

OK Seafoam: Here's a half-baked answer. I just happened to to this project this past weekend. I took them off a while ago (the half-baked part). First DOUSE the area in question with WD-40. There is adhesive on the bottom of the channel and it's anyone's guess how much bite it still has or doesn't have. Next get a few plastic bondo paddles to use in case you need to leverage a pry tool, you won't dent the metal. Find a spot that will wriggle and try to loosen it with the pry tool keeping in mind that this stuff dents and bends if you look at it cockeyed. Be patient....it will go! OK, Take pictures so you can line things up on the way back!!

There also might be a better solution out there. Good luck, Mitch

The problem is I don't see anything I can pry on, because on the back side underneath the molding turns and goes up

into a channel and you can't even see the back edge of the molding underneath, let alone pry on it.

I spent some time doing a non-destructive investigation prior to the new paint job. My final decision was to mask them carefully.

If you have any imperfection in yours the best time to attempt removal is after you come home from 400 point judging with a score of 399.75 points because of the ding.

Option 2 would be to watch Ebay for a perfect one or pair. Every once on a while a set shows up that have been gently massaged from a parts car. Buy the perfect one or set and you will be good to go.

Bernie

I spent some time doing a non-destructive investigation prior to the new paint job. My final decision was to mask them carefully.

If you have any imperfection in yours the best time to attempt removal is after you come home from 400 point judging with a score of 399.75 points because of the ding.

Option 2 would be to watch Ebay for a perfect one or pair. Every once on a while a set shows up that have been gently massaged from a parts car. Buy the perfect one or set and you will be good to go.

Bernie

I bought a supposed very nice one on ebay and it is all mangled on the bottom side from prying it off. I am going to try to get an expert on stainless repair to straighten it but I'm not sure that it can be done to my satisfaction. Still I need to know how you get the old ones off.....I don't see anything underneath

to pry on.

I spent some time doing a non-destructive investigation prior to the new paint job. My final decision was to mask them carefully.

If you have any imperfection in yours the best time to attempt removal is after you come home from 400 point judging with a score of 399.75 points because of the ding.

Option 2 would be to watch Ebay for a perfect one or pair. Every once on a while a set shows up that have been gently massaged from a parts car. Buy the perfect one or set and you will be good to go.

Bernie

Bernie.....I love your comment on the point judging......I had the car at a judged show last weekend and my Riviera and a 69 Barracuda were tied for

first place in the 60's original class and the judges were going back and forth between the two cars looking to break the tie.....I saw the head judge point out my

drip molding ding to the other judges and I came in second! That ding is the only piece of trim on the car that isn't perfectly straight

since I installed my nos door edge guards.

Soooooo does Bernie win the famous "Clock Grabber"

David

Chris Nolan (Alini) shared these instructions on how to remove the drip rail. This was his method of removal before he painted his 65. I plan on taking on this challenge in the next week or two…hope this helps

"To remove the rain drip trim, start at the back end and pry with a thin flat screw driver between it and the steel of the car, work your way forward and it will 'roll' off, it is just snapped in place. Make sure to pay specific attention to where it sits so when you snap it back in place it is right."

David

I have taken them off with an old metal bottle and can opener combo. All you have to do is find one. Gene.

Chris Nolan (Alini) shared these instructions on how to remove the drip rail. This was his method of removal before he painted his 65. I plan on taking on this challenge in the next week or two…hope this helps

"To remove the rain drip trim, start at the back end and pry with a thin flat screw driver between it and the steel of the car, work your way forward and it will 'roll' off, it is just snapped in place. Make sure to pay specific attention to where it sits so when you snap it back in place it is right."

David

David, the problem I'm having is that because the rear edge underneath is concealed, I don't see anyplace to get a screwdriver

under the trim unless I drill a big hole in it first. How can you get a screwdriver between the molding and the metal of the car if the edge is not exposed?

I have taken them off with an old metal bottle and can opener combo. All you have to do is find one. Gene.

Gene I know the bottle opener works on an A-body car because the lower edge is exposed and the bottle opener catches that edge and pries up the molding, but on the Riviera there isn't anything for the bottle opener to grab onto.

Now you have the real spirit of being fussy and have your priorities right on. I make that comment often, one of my favorites; along with "Why should I sell this nice thing I own on Ebay when I have so much crap I could sell first!"

With your damaged parts, try contacting a musical horn repair place. The one near me calls himself The Horn Doctor. They have skills at really intricate metal straightening and may be able to do an amazing job.

Second place to a Backaruda? You know what they call the girl who won second place at the beauty contest- a raving beauty. I'd donate that trophy to the Lions Club.

Bernie

Winston, I am stuck at work until Sunday. I will go home then & get to work on Chris' method & report back to you.

This is only my preliminary thoughts here. After I received his instructions I did take a look at my rain gutters to try & make sense of it. His reference to "the rear edge" is NOT the inside edge that is concealed. But the rear edge that overlaps the sail panel trim. There is a small area of the rain gutter where I plan to insert a small screwdriver. Visually it looks like it will start to roll out slowly like Chris describes.

David

Winston, I am stuck at work until Sunday. I will go home then & get to work on Chris' method & report back to you.

This is only my preliminary thoughts here. After I received his instructions I did take a look at my rain gutters to try & make sense of it. His reference to "the rear edge" is NOT the inside edge that is concealed. But the rear edge that overlaps the sail panel trim. There is a small area of the rain gutter where I plan to insert a small screwdriver. Visually it looks like it will start to roll out slowly like Chris describes.

David

thanks David.....I'll anxiously wait to see how it goes. I can't really do anything about taking mine off until I either get this

piece of trim I bought on ebay fixed or find a better one for sale. Looking at the piece of trim I bought, it looks like they took a pick

or something and forced the rear edge down and pried on it every 4 inches with the result of the inner edge having huge dents in

it in six places. the part that you see easily on top is fine, but the surface that tucks under the bottom is a mess right now.

I used a paint can opener when removing mine a couple years ago. Easy, once I found the right tool and right spot. Snapped right back on after the paint was done.

Zimm

Hi guys,

Would it help if pictures where added to this subject? It would certenly help me .

I understand it is not always possible but it can help you (&me) explaining the issue.

lots of thanks in advance!

Woo whoo! It worked! thanks Chris Nolan!

Ok fellas. So I was NOT able to start pulling this rain gutter off with a small screwdriver but I'm sure you guys can. I still have my door & rear windows in place (I have to search the forum for the advice one member gave on how to roll my power windows down with the battery out). You can see in my third pic that the trim that goes back up into the car body DOES have an edge that is folded over to create a lip, that is what you want to pry on. My rear quarter window was in my way of being able to get the screwdriver behind the trim. With your glass down you can probably angle the screwdriver in behind the trim.

I resorted to using this cotter pin puller to snake behind the trim where the rain gutter trim meets the sail panel trim. I gentle/slowly pried downward until I saw the trim start to give. Be sure that the rain gutter end clears the sail panel trim, I noticed it was trying to hang up so I took a second with a pick tool to free/separate the two. Watch closely to ensure the trim travels downward, it will only move a tiny bit at a time. Don't rush this removal, remember it only moves downward a tiny bit at a time. Don't try to pop it off on the first attempt. If you ensure that you pulled the edge out of the original position then slide over an inch & do it again. Continue this pattern & about every 6 inches or so u should hear it "pop" which means your on the right track. Once you get to the windshield end you can figure the rest out. It will be apparent.

The cotter pin puller only worked for me on the driver side due to the unique bend in the tool. So on the passenger side I was happy to recall you guys suggesting a can opener. So I dug out my old school metal can opener & "wha-lah" it works too. Again, just ensure that u get the tool up & behind the trim pushing down on the "folded over lip".

I am glad I removed this trim instead of taping it up & painting around it. I found some nasty surface rust under there that I can now clean up & treat.

Hope this helps

I took mine off starting at the front where the gutter molding is longer than the actual gutter. I used a twisting motion and it came right off. The vertical piece was more difficult than the horizontal piece. No special tools, just patience.

Ed

I took mine off starting at the front where the gutter molding is longer than the actual gutter. I used a twisting motion and it came right off. The vertical piece was more difficult than the horizontal piece. No special tools, just patience.

Ed

Thanks to everyone for the pictures and advice.......Winston

One thing I forgot to mention. There is a small strip of paint between the rain gutter molding & the weather strip molding. I am prepping my car for paint so I didn't worry about that section & ended up with small scratches there.

Those who want to avoid scratching that painted area should maybe protect it with some tape. Then maybe hold a piece of card stock between your prying tool & the painted surface. Just an idea…good luck

David

Thanks for posting pictures David.

To me it maked things clear.

There is a small strip of paint between the rain gutter molding & the weather strip molding.

Be sure to pay attention that the painted strip even exists. I forgot mine when I changed from brown to maroon in 1980; just masked off the whole window area. Over the years I got into the habit of looking there on any I see. Lots of color changes. Check yours next time you walk up to it. You could be surprised.

Bernie

I had good luck on my 63', with a set of plastic trim tools from Harbor Freight. Start at the back and work forward. Mine just rolled off.